Preface



                    The History of The Compleat Terrorist:

                    --- ------- -- --- -------- ---------

A couple of years ago, I began compiling a file filled with

information from the world-famous BBS Ripco.  The basis of this

file was, of course, THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK,an incredible book

that was never published.  Ripco fell prey to Operation Sundevil, 

the McCarthyist witch hunt.  I printed out two copies of this file:

Both went to friends.  These are the only copies of The Original

Compleat Terrorist in existence.  I suffered a hard disk crash

which wiped out the subdirectory in which my original file resided.

Today, August 8th, at 1 AM, I found a copy of The Terrorist's Hand-

book on a BBS.  Here begins the new and improved:





                         The New Compleat Terrorist

                         --------------------------



PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory. 

------



                           THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK

                           ------------------------





1.0     INTRODUCTION



     Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is

proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook.  First and

foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities

for any misuse of the information presented in this publication.  The purpose

of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this

and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals.

The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be

carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment.  This makes one all the more

frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information,

and use it against anyone.  The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE

CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!  SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM

ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION.  THIS IS MERELY

FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!



Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some

idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is

the reason for the existence of this publication.













1.1          Table of Contents

             



2.0 .......  BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS

2.01 ........  Black Powder

2.02 ........  Pyrodex

2.03 ........  Rocket Engine Powder

2.04 ........  Rifle/Shotgun Powder

2.05 ........  Flash Powder

2.06 ........  Ammonium Nitrate

2.1 .......  ACQUIRING CHEMICALS

2.11 ........  Techniques for Picking Locks

2.2 .......  LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY

2.3 .......  PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS

2.31 ........  Nitric Acid

2.32 ........  Sulfuric Acid

2.33 ........  Ammonium Nitrate

3.0 .......  EXPLOSIVE RECIPES

3.01 ........  Explosive Theory

3.1 .......  IMPACT EXPLOSIVES

3.11 ........  Ammonium Triiodide Crystals

3.12 ........  Mercury Fulminate

3.13 ........  Nitroglycerine

3.14 ........  Picrates

3.2 .......  LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES

3.21 ........  Black Powder

3.22 ........  Nitrocellulose

3.23 ........  Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures

3.24 ........  Perchlorates

3.3 .......  HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES

3.31 ........  R.D.X. (Cyclonite)

3.32 ........  Ammonium Nitrate

3.33 ........  ANFOS

3.34 ........  T.N.T.

3.35 ........  Potassium Chlorate

3.36 ........  Dynamite

3.37 ........  Nitrostarch Explosives

3.38 ........  Picric Acid

3.39 ........  Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)

3.40 ........  Nitrogen Trichloride

3.41 ........  Lead Azide

3.5 .......  OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"

3.51 ........  Thermit

3.52 ........  Molotov Cocktails

3.53 ........  Chemical Fire Bottle

3.54 ........  Bottled Gas Explosives

4.0 .......  USING EXPLOSIVES

4.1 .......  SAFETY

4.2 .......  IGNITION DEVICES

4.21 ........  Fuse Ignition

4.22 ........  Impact Ignition

4.23 ........  Electrical Ignition

4.24 ........  Electro - Mechanical Ignition

4.241 .......  Mercury Switches

4.242 .......  Tripwire Switches

4.243 .......  Radio Control Detonators

4.3 .......  DELAYS

4.31 ........  Fuse Delays

4.32 ........  Timer Delays

4.33 ........  Chemical Delays

4.4 .......  EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS

4.41 ........  Paper Containers

4.42 ........  Metal Containers

4.43 ........  Glass Containers

4.44 ........  Plastic Containers

4.5 .......  ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES

4.51 ........  Shaped Charges

4.52 ........  Tube Explosives

4.53 ........  Atomized Particle Explosions

4.54 ........  Lightbulb Bombs

4.55 ........  Book Bombs

4.56 ........  Phone Bombs

5.0 .......  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS

5.1 .......  PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)

5.11 ........  Bow and Crossbow Ammunition

5.12 ........  Blowgun Ammunition

5.13 ........  Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition

5.2 .......  PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)

5.21 ........  Handgun Ammunition

5.22 ........  Shotguns

5.3 .......  PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)

5.31 ........  .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition

5.32 ........  .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition

6.0 .......  ROCKETS AND CANNONS

6.1 .......  ROCKETS

6.11 ........  Basic Rocket-Bomb

6.12 ........  Long Range Rocket-Bomb

6.13 ........  Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs

6.2 ........ CANNONS

6.21 ........  Basic Pipe Cannon

6.22 ........  Rocket-Firing Cannon

7.0 .......  PYROTECHNICA ERRATA

7.1 .........  Smoke Bombs

7.2 .........  Colored Flames

7.3 .........  Tear Gas

7.4 .........  Fireworks

7.41 ........  Firecrackers

7.42 ........  Skyrockets

7.43 ........  Roman Candles

8.0 .......  LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION

9.0 .......  CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS

10.0 ......  USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY

11.0 ......  ABOUT THE AUTHOR















































2.0   BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS



     Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and

a pharmacy.  These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in

order to purchase explosive material.  All that one has to do is know something

about the non-explosive uses of the materials.  Black powder, for example,

is used in blackpowder firearms.  It comes in varying "grades", with each

different grade being a slightly different size.  The grade of black powder

depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of

powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon.  The rule is:

the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.





2.01   BLACK POWDER





     Black powder is generally available in three grades.  As stated before,

the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns.  Burn rate is extremely

important in bombs.  Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in

a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is

desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along

with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in.  Generally,

the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable.  However, the other

grades and uses are listed below:





     GRADE              BORE WIDTH               EXAMPLE OF GUN

                                  



     F                  .50 or greater           model cannon; some rifles

     FF                 .36 - .50                large pistols; small rifles

     FFF                .36 or smaller           pistols; derringers





     The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has

more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front.  The larger

grades also have uses which will be discussed later.  The price range of

black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00.  The price is not affected

by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer

grade of powder.  The major problems with black powder are that it can be

ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to

absorb moisture from the air.  To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic

spoon and a wooden salad bowl.  Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would

apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes

or circles, but not too hard.  It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine

as flour.  The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes

to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1

foot by 4 inch radius pipe.  Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can

own black powder firearms in America.





































2.02    PYRODEX





     Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder.  It comes

in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound.  However, a one pound

container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black

powder.  It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and

it is considerably safer and more reliable.  This is because it will

not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined

to absorb moisture.  It costs about $10.00 per pound.  It can be crushed in the

same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.





2.03        ROCKET ENGINE POWDER



     One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry.  Estes is

the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines.  Rocket engines are

composed of a single large grain of propellant.  This grain is surrounded by

a fairly heavy cardboard tubing.  One gets the propellant by slitting the tube

lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll.  When this is done, the

grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.  This is

usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally

hard, and must be crushed to be used.  By gripping the grain on the widest

setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag,

the powder will not break apart and shatter all over.  This should be done to

all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder.

Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly

powerful D engines.  The larger the engine, the more expensive.  D engines come

in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package.  Rocket engines are

perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they

can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.





2.04       RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER



     Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle

standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be

referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the

action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is

then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size.  When

dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of

black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly

compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder

burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.

Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants

is not necessary for gunpowder.  Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any

idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the

U.S.





2.05       FLASH POWDER





      Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various

oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated

with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is

sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very

finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The

fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.











     It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot

white "flash", hence its name.  It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.

It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.





2.06       AMMONIUM NITRATE





     Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as

a commercial "safety explosive"  It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite

with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is

touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation

will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high

explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of

nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the

"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks"

consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the

ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the

outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in

a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it

tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many

fertilizers.





2.1     ACQUIRING CHEMICALS





     The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section

deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.

Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the

labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter

lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and

most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears

a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone

asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking

for the  polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department

other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various

labs and  departments in a building are by calling the university. There

are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as

placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back

exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before

this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a

lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the

cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never

know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one

plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the

actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know

when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if

none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a

rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another

person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an

odd hour.





2.11     TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS





     If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's

most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer.  There are

unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these

methods.  The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.











These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,

but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule

here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several

devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental

tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-

knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these

tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch

out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding

whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out

from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum

can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged

ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a

single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the

strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4

inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape,

or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:





 (1)



        _________________________________________________________    v

1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    |

1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    | 1 inch

1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    |

1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    |

                                                                     ^



     Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of

aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped

device that looks like this:

                       __________________________________________

                      / ________________________________________|

                     | |

                     | |          L-shaped

                     | |

                     | |

                     |_|



                       _____________________________

                      / ___________________________|

                     | |

                     | |     J-shaped

                     | |

                     | |________

                      \________|



                       _____________________

                      / ___________________|

                     | |

                     | |

                     | |     U-shaped

                     | |

                     | |____________________

                      \____________________|





     All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and

pull the latch out of its hole.  The folds in the lockpicks will be between

the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made

properly.













2.2      LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY



     Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,

and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous

compounds.  A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some

money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.





Chemical                Used In                         Available at

________                _______                         ____________



_____________________________________________________________________________

alcohol, ethyl *       alcoholic beverages            liquor stores

                       solvents (95% min. for both)   hardware stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

ammonia +              CLEAR household ammonia        supermarkets/7-eleven

_____________________________________________________________________________

ammonium               instant-cold paks,             drug stores,

nitrate                fertilizers                    medical supply stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

nitrous oxide          pressurizing whip cream        party supply stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

magnesium              firestarters                   surplus/camping stores

____________________________________________________________________________

lecithin               vitamins                       pharmacies/drug stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

mineral oil            cooking, laxative              supermarket/drug stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

mercury @              mercury thermometers      supermarkets/hardware stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sulfuric acid          uncharged car batteries        automotive stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

glycerine                     ?                       pharmacies/drug stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sulfur                 gardening                     gardening/hardware store

_____________________________________________________________________________

charcoal               charcoal grills          supermarkets/gardening stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sodium nitrate         fertilizer                     gardening store

_____________________________________________________________________________

cellulose (cotton)     first aid                   drug/medical supply stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

strontium nitrate      road flares                    surplus/auto stores,

_____________________________________________________________________________

fuel oil               kerosene stoves                surplus/camping stores,

_____________________________________________________________________________

bottled gas            propane stoves                 surplus/camping stores,

_____________________________________________________________________________

potassium permanganate water purification             purification plants

_____________________________________________________________________________

hexamine or            hexamine stoves                surplus/camping stores

methenamine            (camping)

_____________________________________________________________________________

nitric acid ^          cleaning printing              printing shops

                       plates                         photography stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

iodine &               first aid                      drug stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sodium perchlorate     solidox pellets                hardware stores

                       for cutting torches

_____________________________________________________________________________











notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a

       solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be

       at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate.

       Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.





     + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms.  The

       pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear

       ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.





     @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately.  They

       may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury

       switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a

       hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or

       mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will

       cause brain damage if inhaled.  For this reason, it is a good idea

       not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not

       get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.





     ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays.  It is usually

       stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later

       section.  A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.





     & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline

       form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.

       To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's

       prescription, but this can be expensive.  Once again, theft is the

       means that terrorists result to.





2.3      PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS



2.31     NITRIC ACID





       There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for

  explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once

  again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!



     Materials:                             Equipment:

                                   

     sodium nitrate or                      adjustable heat source

     potassium nitrate

                                            retort

     distilled water

                                            ice bath

     concentrated

     sulfuric acid                          stirring rod



                                            collecting flask with stopper





1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.



2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium

nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly.  If it all does not dissolve,

carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.













3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the

   collecting flask in the ice bath.



4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat.  Continue heating until liquid

   begins to come out of the end of the retort.  The liquid that forms is nitric

   acid.  Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,

   or until no more nitric acid is forming.  CAUTION: If the acid is headed too

   strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed.  This

   can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may

   explode.  It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get

   away from it.





     Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,

simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out

the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be

necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of

boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel

into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and

sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of

water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.





2.32     SULFURIC ACID



     Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or

industrial plant.  However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery.

A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car

battery and pour the acid into a glass container.  There would probably be

pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,

either by boiling or filtration.  The concentration of the sulfuric acid can

also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster

than clean motor oil.





2.33     AMMONIUM NITRATE



     Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order

explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large

flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask

and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have

stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place

until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.

There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must

be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from

the air.  The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY

gently to drive off the remaining water.





3.0     EXPLOSIVE RECIPES



     Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE

ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN.  IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS

TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO.  LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT

OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.



     These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual

could conceivably produce the materials described.  The methods here are usually

scaled-down industrial procedures.















3.01     EXPLOSIVE THEORY



     An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,

undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation.  This process releases energy that

is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down

into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece

of material.  Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are

displaced by the expanding gasses.  This expansion occurs at a speed greater

than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs.  This explains the

mechanics behind an explosion.  Explosives occur in several forms: high-order

explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which

may do both.



     High order explosives detonate.  A detonation occurs only in a high

order explosive.  Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes

through a block of the high explosive material.  The shockwave breaks apart

the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately

equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material.  In a high

explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks

apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.

T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.



     Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.

when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and

gaseous products.  Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under

pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,

which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they

are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn

much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.

Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order

explosives.



     Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field.  Some of them, such as

mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive.  They are

usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low

explosives.  Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they

are much more sensitive.  Still others merely burn, but when they are confined,

they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.

Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,

a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell.  But, they are also frequently

used to ignite a low order explosive;  the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by

the detonation of its primer.





3.1     IMPACT EXPLOSIVES



     Impact explosives are often used as primers.  Of the ones discussed

here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium

triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no

light.  Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even

the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.





3.11    AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS



     Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals

that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they

are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine.  Such

crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks

across them.  Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps

and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or











heated.  Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine

gas appears about the detonation site.  Whatever the unfortunate surface that

the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine

in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive.  It

leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.

Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the

ground and stains things there also.  Touching iodine leaves brown stains on

the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously

washed off.  While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist,

a vandal could utilize them in damaging property.  Or, a terrorist could throw

several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly

injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that

not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion.  Ammonium triiodide

crystals could be produced in the following manner:



     Materials                Equipment

                     



     iodine crystals          funnel and filter paper



                              paper towels

     clear ammonia

     (ammonium hydroxide,     two throw-away glass jars

      for the suicidal)





1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.  The jars

   must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.



2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.



3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel.

   The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic

   chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle

   is formed.  Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved

   side.  Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone

   into the funnel.



4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the

   solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.



5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar

   to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.



6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,

   and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour.  Make sure that

   they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could

   well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about

   eight chunks.



7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of

   duct tape.  Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape

   together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.

   Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and

   store the crystals in a cool dry safe place.  They have a shelf life of

   about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be

   thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which

   gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on.  One

   possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight

   containers.  To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them

   where they will be stepped on or crushed.













3.12      MERCURY FULMINATE





     Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating

compounds.  It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it

of infinite value to a terrorist.  Even the action of dropping a crystal of

the fulminate causes it to explode.  A person making this material would

probably use the following procedure:







     MATERIALS                  EQUIPMENT

                       



     mercury (5 g)              glass stirring rod



     concentrated nitric        100 ml beaker (2)

     acid (35 ml)

                                adjustable heat

     ethyl alcohol (30 ml)      source



     distilled water            blue litmus paper



                                funnel and filter paper







1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,

   using the glass rod.



2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the

   solution turns green and boils.



3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully

    add all of the contents of the first beaker to it.  Red and/or brown fumes

   should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.



4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that

   the reaction is near completion.  After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the

   distilled water to the solution.



5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid

   solution.  Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive

   and toxic.



6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess

   acid as possible.  Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are

   neutral.   This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the

   wet crystals



7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from

   any explosive or flammable material.





       This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury

  cannot be weighed.  Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of

  ethanol to every one volume of mercury.

















3.13       NITROGLYCERINE



     Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not

the most sensitive.  Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.

Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to

make the stuff.  When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the

all-to-frequent factory explosions.  Usually, as soon as it is made, it is

converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite.  An idiot who attempts

to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:





     MATERIAL               EQUIPMENT

                    



     distilled water        eye-dropper



     table salt             100 ml beaker



     sodium bicarbonate     200-300 ml beakers (2)



     concentrated nitric    ice bath container

     acid (13 ml)           ( a plastic bucket serves well )



     concentrated sulfuric  centigrade thermometer

     acid (39 ml)

                             blue litmus paper

     glycerine





1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.



2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about

   a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate

   dissolves.  Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some

   remains undissolved.



3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and

   adding table salt.  This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall

   temperature.



4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated

   nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker.  Be sure that the beaker will not spill

   into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker

   when more materials are added to it.  Be sure to have a large enough ice bath

   container to add more ice.  Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20

   degrees centigrade or less.



5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the

   39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid.  Mix the two acids

   together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade.  It is a good

   idea to start another ice bath to do this.



6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop

   at a time.  Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed

   acids and glycerine meet.  DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30

   DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN

   LIKE HELL!!!  The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the

   temperature will immediately begin to rise.  Add glycerine until there is a

   thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids.  It is always safest to

   make any explosive in small quantities.













7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,

   adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution

   in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade.  Usually, the

   nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the

   concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.



8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30

   degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine

   and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1.  The

   nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid

   solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the

   acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.



9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it

   into the beaker in step 2.  The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate

   much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less

   likely to explode for no reason, which it can do.  Test the nitroglycerine

   with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue.  Repeat this step if

   necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.



10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean

    container in a safe place.  The best place to store nitroglycerine is

    far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.

    Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored

    in a secure cool place.





3.14     PICRATES



     Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or

trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they

are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact.  By mixing picric acid with

metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the

water, metal picrates can be formed.  Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it,

and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range

molarity.  (about 6-9 M)  This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,

and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.



3.2      LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES



     There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun

stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise

wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking

individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making

his own low-order explosives.





3.21     BLACK POWDER





     First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first

used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century.  It is very simple to make,

but it is not very powerful or safe.  Only about 50% of black powder is

converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine

burned particles.  Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by

static electricity.  This is very bad, and it means that the material must be

made with wooden or clay tools.  Anyway, a misguided individual could

manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:

















     MATERIALS               EQUIPMENT

                    

     potassium               clay grinding bowl

     nitrate (75 g)          and clay grinder



       or                         or



     sodium                  wooden salad bowl

     nitrate (75 g)          and wooden spoon



     sulfur (10 g)           plastic bags (3)



     charcoal (15 g)         300-500 ml beaker (1)



     distilled water         coffee pot or heat source





1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl

   and grind it to a very fine powder.  Do this to all of the potassium or

   sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.



2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a

   separate plastic bag.



3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and

    add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.



4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium

   nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes.  Do this until there is no

   more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.



5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.  Sunlight

   is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it

   is hot enough to evaporate the water.



6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container.

   Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper.  Never store black

   powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static

   electricity.





3.22     NITROCELLULOSE



     Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton".  It is more

stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas.  It

also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.

Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following

procedure:





     MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT

                         

     cotton  (cellulose)          two (2) 200-300 ml beakers



     concentrated                 funnel and filter paper

     nitric acid

                                  blue litmus paper

     concentrated

     sulfuric acid



     distilled water











1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.  Add to this

   10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.



2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3

   minutes.



3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water

   to wash it in.



4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.



5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to

   be dried and stored.





3.23     FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES



     There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can

be produced by a misguided individual in his own home.  Some are very effective

and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective.  A list of working

fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each

compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness.  A rough estimate will be

given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:







 oxodizer, % by weight         fuel, % by weight    speed #     notes

================================================================================

 potassium chlorate 67%          sulfur 33%            5   friction/impact

                                                           sensitive; unstable



 potassium chlorate 50%          sugar 35%             5   fairly slow burning;

                              charcoal 15%                   unstable



 potassium chlorate 50%          sulfur 25%            8      extremely

                              magnesium or                    unstable!

                              aluminum dust 25%



 potassium chlorate 67%          magnesium or          8          unstable

                              aluminum dust 33%



 sodium nitrate 65%            magnesium dust 30%      ?        unpredictable

                               sulfur 5%                         burn rate



 potassium permanganate 60%     glycerine 40%          4     delay before

                                                             ignition depends

 WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!            upon grain size



 potassium permanganate 67%     sulfur 33%             5       unstable



 potassium permangenate 60%     sulfur 20%             5       unstable

                               magnesium or

                               aluminum dust 20%



 potassium permanganate 50%     sugar 50%              3          ?



 potassium nitrate 75%         charcoal 15%            7      this is

                               sulfur 10%                    black powder!



 potassium nitrate 60%         powdered iron           1     burns very hot

                               or magnesium 40%







 oxidizer, % by weight         fuel, % by weight    speed #     notes

================================================================================

 potassium chlorate 75%        phosphorus              8  used to make strike-

                              sesquisulfide 25%            anywhere matches



 ammonium perchlorate 70%     aluminum dust 30%        6     solid fuel for

                              and small amount of               space shuttle

                              iron oxide



 potassium perchlorate 67%     magnesium or           10      flash powder

(sodium perchlorate)          aluminum dust 33%



 potassium perchlorate 60%    magnesium or             8      alternate

(sodium perchlorate)          aluminum dust 20%               flash powder

                              sulfur 20%



 barium nitrate 30%           aluminum dust 30%        9       alternate

 potassium perchlorate 30%                                    flash powder



 barium peroxide 90%          magnesium dust 5%       10       alternate

                              aluminum dust 5%                flash powder



 potassium perchlorate 50%     sulfur 25%              8       slightly

                               magnesium or                    unstable

                               aluminum dust 25%



 potassium chlorate 67%        red phosphorus 27%      7     very unstable

 calcium carbonate 3%          sulfur 3%                     impact sensitive



 potassium permanganate 50%    powdered sugar 25%      7       unstable;

                               aluminum or                     ignites if

                               magnesium dust 25%              it gets wet!



 potassium chlorate 75%        charcoal dust 15%       6        unstable

                               sulfur 10%

================================================================================



NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium

      perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.



     The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns

AFTER ignition.  Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of

burning.



     As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures

that can be made at home.  By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),

different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity

of the mixture.





3.24    PERCHLORATES



     As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid

will become a low order explosive.  Metals, however, such as potassium or

sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders.  Some materials that can

be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust.  To produce potassium or sodium

perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or

potassium hydroxide.  It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated

with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react

explosively when contacted by the acid.  Solutions of sodium or potassium

hydroxide are ideal.











3.3     HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES



     High order explosives can be made in the home without too much

difficulty.  The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high

explosive.  Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is

made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )

molecules.  T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a

material.  When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the

nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in

a matter of microseconds.  This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based

explosives.  Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,

several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.







3.31     R.D.X.



     R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with

plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives.  This is

because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to

detonate.  It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too

severe shock.  It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,

but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.  R.D.X. can be made by the

surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter.  It is much easier to make in the

home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium

nitrate.





     MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT

                         



     hexamine                     500 ml beaker

       or

     methenamine                  glass stirring rod

     fuel tablets (50 g)

                                  funnel and filter paper

     concentrated

     nitric acid (550 ml)         ice bath container

                                  (plastic bucket)

     distilled water

                                  centigrade thermometer

     table salt

                                  blue litmus paper

     ice



     ammonium nitrate



1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully

    pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.



2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of

   the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker.  The temperature will rise, and it

   must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result.

   Stir the mixture.



3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice

   and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.  Or, ammonium

   nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is

   put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below

   zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes













4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice.  Shake and stir the mixture,

   and allow it to melt.  Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and

   dispose of the corrosive liquid.



5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.  Filter

   the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper.  Repeat steps 4 and 5

   until the litmus paper remains blue.  This will make the crystals more stable

   and safe.



6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely

   using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.



7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%

   mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic

   bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.



8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.

   it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.



9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should

   be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium

   nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could

   also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.



10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a

    density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.





3.32      AMMONIUM NITRATE



     Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-

hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site,

since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive

to shock and heat.  A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a

drug store or medical supply store.  The major disadvantage with ammonium

nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it.  A rather

powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge.  The

diagram below will explain.



          _________________________________________

          |       |                               |

  ________|       |                               |

     |        | T.N.T.|     ammonium nitrate      |

     |primer |booster|                            |

     |_______|       |                            |

          |       |                               |

          |_______|_______________________________|



     The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending

     a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.





3.33     ANFOS



     ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution.  An ANFO

solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick

up water vapor from the air.  This results in the explosive failing to detonate

when such an attempt is made.  This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)

ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene.  The kerosene keeps the ammonium

nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air.  An ANFO also requires a large

shockwave to set it off.











3.34       T.N.T.





     T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high

explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known

high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It

is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well

known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is

designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the

product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one

step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very

strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very

strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,

and it is filtered.







3.35     POTASSIUM CHLORATE





     Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be

obtained from labs.  If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of

vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the

material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder.  It must,

however, be confined to detonate it in this manner.  The procedure for making

such an explosive is outlined below:







     MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT

                         





     potassium chlorate           zip-lock plastic bag

     (9 parts, by volume)



     petroleum jelly              clay grinding bowl

     (vaseline)                          or

     (1 part, by volume)          wooden bowl and wooden spoon







1)  Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,

    until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder.  The finer that it is

    powdered, the faster (better)  it will detonate.



2)  Place the powder into the plastic bag.  Put the petroleum jelly into the

    plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e.

    put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.



3)  Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium

    chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob.  If necessary,

    add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.



4)  The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to

    greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive.  This reaction, however,

    is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.



















3.36     DYNAMITE



     The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.

Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was

made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided

individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)

would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various

materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large

weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate

could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase

the power.  But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.







3.37     NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES





     Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful.  All

that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric

and sulfuric acids.  10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of

concentrated nitric acid.  To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch.  Cold

water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.

Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are

more readily detonated.







3.38     PICRIC ACID





     Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military

explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less

sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T.  It another explosive that is fairly simple

to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric

acids.  Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab

manuals, and is easy to follow.  The main problem with picric acid is its

tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as

potassium picrate.  For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such

as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D.  A social deviant would probably

use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.









     MATERIALS                         EQUIPMENT

                              



     phenol (9.5 g)                    500 ml flask



     concentrated                      adjustable heat source

     sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)

                                       1000 ml beaker

     concentrated nitric               or other container

     acid (38 ml)                      suitable for boiling in



     distilled water                   filter paper

                                       and funnel



                                       glass stirring rod















1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5

   ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.



2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and

   bring the water to a gentle boil.



3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling

   water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty

   minutes.  After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for

   about five minutes.



4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to

   cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,

   steps 3-4.  Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice

   bath.  Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the

   mixture constantly.  A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur.  When

   the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.



5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap

   water.  Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat

   it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.



6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice

   bath until it is cold.



7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution

   through the filter paper in the funnel.  Collect the liquid and dispose of it

   in a safe place, since it is corrosive.



8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the

   filter paper in the flask.  Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.



9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.



10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will

    react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode

    spontaneously.





3.39     AMMONIUM PICRATE





     Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.

It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that

required to detonate ammonium nitrate.  It is much safer than picric acid, since

it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal

containers.  It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia.

All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and

dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water.  Add clear household ammonia in

excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate.  The powder remaining should

be ammonium picrate.





3.40   NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE





     Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow

liquid.  It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or

when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark.  It is fairly simple to

produce.













1)  In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.

    Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it

    remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.



2)  Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric

    acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass

    pipe.



3)  Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the

    beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers

    together.  Gently heat the bottom beaker.  When this is done, oily yellow

    droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down

    to the bottom.  At this time, remove the heat source immediately.



    Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate

    solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires

    timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.



    The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently

    heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia.  Place the glass tubes

    from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating

    flask in another flask that contains water.



4)  Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,

    since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.





3.41     LEAD AZIDE



     Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for

other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive

explosive.  It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it

is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap.  It is

simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.



     By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate

beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state.  Mix the two beakers

together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate

solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the

beaker stops forming.  Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in

hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety.

If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead

metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.





3.5     OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"



     The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can

be used to destroy property by fire.  Although none of the materials

presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.



3.51     THERMIT



     Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous

amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react

nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely

powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from

the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a

combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by

an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,

it is one of the most effective firestarters around.











     MATERIALS

     



     powdered aluminum (10 g)



     powdered iron oxide (10 g)





1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.  Simply

   mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as

   possible.  The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and

   be made in greater or lesser amounts.



2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of

   potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid

   on it.  This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33.  The

   other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip.  Finally, by

   using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture

   can be ignited.





3.52     MOLOTOV COCKTAILS





     First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now

exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and

can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such

as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,

turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass

bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable

liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid

in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth

around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to

light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth

does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle

will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.

Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more

volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture

such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,

and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this

must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown







3.53     CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE



     The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.  Rather

than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best

a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very

hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.  When the

container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the

paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar.  The paper, when struck by the

acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline.  The chance

of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if

there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.























     MATERIALS                         EQUIPMENT

                              



     potassium chlorate               glass bottle

     (2 teaspoons)                    (12 oz.)



     sugar (2 teaspoons)              cap for bottle,

                                      with plastic inside



     concentrated                     cooking pan with raised

     sulfuric acid (4 oz.)            edges



     gasoline (8 oz.)                 paper towels



                                      glass or plastic cup

                                      and spoon







1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure

   that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage.  If the

   acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until

   a cap that the acid does not eat through is found.  A glass top is excellent.



2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.



3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.

   Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on

   the bottle.  Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water.  Set it aside

   to dry.



4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of

   sugar into the glass or plastic cup.  Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,

   or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.



5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges.  Fold

   the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium

   chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet.  Allow the towel to

   dry.



6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing

   the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture.  Wrap the paper towel around the

   bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places.  Store the bottle

   in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.



7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct

   liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution

   on top.  The two solutions will not mix.  To use the chemical fire bottle,

   simply throw it at any hard surface.



8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH

   COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE,

   CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.



9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,

   and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it.  The paper towel should

   immediately burst into a white flame.



















3.54     BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES





     Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane

stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To

make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be

to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other

gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and

on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to

the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas

would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large

fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container

often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting.  By

using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition

are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished.  Placing the

canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would

probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,

since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the

gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it.  Nitrous oxide,

hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.







4.0     USING EXPLOSIVES





     Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to

apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism,

to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER

IN PART OR IN FULL!  DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!

     The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would

be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had

to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would

also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine

where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see

if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or

moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive

device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section.





4.1     SAFETY



     There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.  One can only speak

in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.





4.2     IGNITION DEVICES



     There are many ways to ignite explosive devices.  There is the classic

"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive

mercury switches, and many things in between.  Generally, electrical detonation

systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more

appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical

detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught.  A device

with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.



















4.21     FUSE IGNITION





     The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite

type of simple ignition system.  By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in

a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition.  Modern waterproof fuse is

extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch.  It is

available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for

a nine-foot length.  Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because

of its simplicity.  All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.

     Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses

fuse ignition, would be very impracticle.  If a grenade ignition system can be

acquired, by all means, it is the most effective.  But, since such things do not

just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does

not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity.

One such method is described below:





     MATERIALS

     _________



     strike-on-cover type matches



     electrical tape or duct tape



     waterproof fuse



1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a

   6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it.  With a stopwatch, press the

   start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when

   the fuse reaches its end.  Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and

   you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch.  This will be shown

   below:



     Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time

     of combustion is 20 seconds.







     20 seconds

       = 2.5 seconds per inch.

     8 inches





     If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired

      time by the number of seconds per inch:



     10 seconds

      = 4 inches

     2.5 seconds / inch



NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER.  SOME FUSE,

      AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE.  ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA

      INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!





2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is

   to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and

   cut it off.













3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.  Do not

   pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard

   base.  Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one

   to make a second igniter.



4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches

   touching the very end of the fuse.  Tape them there securely, making sure not

   to put tape over the match heads.  Make sure they are very secure by pulling

   on them at the base of the assembly.  They should not be able to move.



5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making

   sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces

   the match heads.  Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches.

   Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.  Leave

   enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.



          _____________________

          \                   /

           \                 /  ------ match book cover

            \               /

             |    M|f|M ---|------- match head

             |    A|u|A    |

             |    T|s|T    |

             |    C|e|C    |

             |tapeH|.|Htape|

             |     |f|     |

             |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper

             |#####|s|#####|

             \     |e|     /

              \    |.|    /

               \   |f|   /

                \  |u|  /

                |ta|s|pe|

                |ta|e|pe|

                   |.|

                   |f|

                   |u|

                   |s|

                   |e|

                   |.|

                   |_|





     The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.

     The matches are taped to the fuse.  The striker will rub against the

     matcheads when the match book is pulled.



6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper.  It should pull the

   striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.

   In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the

   burning match heads.







4.22     IMPACT IGNITION



     Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous

terrorist activities.  The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it

must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being

transported to the place where it is to be used.  This can be done by having a

removable impact initiator.











     The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory

made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such

primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such

a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples

are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a

package of nipples and the caps that fit them.  Nipples have a hole that goes

all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the

cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:



                   ________________

                  |                |

                  _                |

                 | |                 |

          _______| |^^^^^^^^|        |

          |      ___________|          |

          |     |                      |

   no. 11       |_______|                |

   percussion    _______                 | ------- threads for screwing

   cap here     |       |                |         nipple onto bomb

          |     |___________           |

          |_______         |           |

               | |^^^^^^^^^|         |

               |_|                   |

                                   |

                  |________________|





     When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into

whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed

into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed

on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount

before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place.  The

only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must

strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small

parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,

should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with

mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it

strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person

carrying the bomb is bumped hard.



4.23     ELECTRICAL IGNITION



     Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and

most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition

work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools

of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe",

comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get

hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device

will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in  less

than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or

if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters

are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction

also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost

about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two

wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get,

but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run

through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs

can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium

chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black

powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order

explosive.











4.24     ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION



     Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of

mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically.  This type of

switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person

who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it

explodes.  Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed





4.241     Mercury Switches



     Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal

conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at

room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with

two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's

nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help

to explain a mercury switch.



                         ______________

                     A  /              \   B

      _____wire +______/___________     \

                       \   ( Hg )  |    /

                        \ _(_Hg_)__|___/

                                   |

                                   |

                            wire - |

                                   |

                                   |



     When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both

contacts, current flows through the switch.  If this particular switch was in

its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can

touch both contacts in the horizontal position.

     If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only

touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury

does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position.

     This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in

the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door

would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.

This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to

touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the

igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it

slammed in your face by an explosion.





4.242     Tripwire Switches



     A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap.  By placing a nearly

invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and

by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.

If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a

tripwire to detonate a bomb.  The technique is simple.  By wrapping the tips of

a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them,

and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can

be made,  If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the

contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.  When the

tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to

flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,

which would have the igniter or squib in it.  Current would flow between

the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it

it to explode.













                    __________________________________

                    \_foil___________________________/

 Insert strip of      ----------------------------spring

 wood with trip-      _foil__________________________

 wire between foil   /_______________________________\

 contacts.





Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since

the spring also conducts electricity.





4.243     Radio Control Detonators





     In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled

detonator to set off explosives.  With a good radio detonator, one can be

several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,

in much the same way as an electrical switch.  The problem with radio detonators

is that they are rather costly.  However, there could possibly be a reason that

a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio

control) system and use it as a detonator.  If such an individual wanted to

devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store

or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.  Taking it back to his/her abode,

all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the

motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the

elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the

squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor.  The

device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully

charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part

that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).





4.3     DELAYS



     A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is

set up to the time that it explodes.  A regular fuse is a delay, but it would

cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse.  This section deals with

the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to

be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it

does.





4.31     FUSE DELAYS



     It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for

ignition.  Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette.  An average

cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,

the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker

than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to

go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in

a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of

a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough

oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses

will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure

they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate

is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way

through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing

the fuse for a device in the hole formed.

















                            |=|

                            |=| ---------- filter

                            |=|

                            | |

                            | |

                            |o| ---------- hole for fuse

 cigarette ------------     | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            | |

                            |_| ---------- light this end







     A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet

of paper.  Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with

powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a

fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused

with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with

powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of

charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks

of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first

brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply

store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse

about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.

     Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the

home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of

boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all

cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries,

it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the

end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black

powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the

slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of

slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black

powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper

is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is

allowed to dry.







4.32     TIMER DELAYS





     Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who

wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location

and means to disarm it.  Such a device could be placed in any populated place

if it were concealed properly.  There are several ways to build a timer delay.

By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,

and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be

made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less

than an hour is desired.



















            ___________________________________  to igniter      from igniter

            |                                  |

            |               12                 |      :            :

            |         11           1           |      :            :

            |                                  |      :            :

            |     10                   2       |      :            :

            |                 o................|......:            :

            |                                  |                   :

            |   9                         3    |                   :

            |                                  |                   :

            |                                  |                   :

            |    8                      4      |                   :

            |                        o.........|......             :

            |          7             5         |     :             :

            |                 6                |     :.+.....-.....:

            |__________________________________|     __|_____|

                                        |           |

                                        |  battery  |

          o - contacts                  |           |

          ..... - wire                  |           |

                                        |___________|



     This device is set to go off in eleven hours.  When the hour hand of the

clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit,

allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.



     The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set

 for a maximum time of 12 hours.  If an electronic timer is used, such as that in

an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible.  By removing

the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or

igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.  To utilize

this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.

All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,

connect the leads, and go away.  This could also be done with an electronic

watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the

watch was stepped up via a transformer.  This would be good, since such a timer

could be extremely small.  The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would

be ideal.  VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week.  The leads from

the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib

would be connected to.  Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that

would be ideal.  Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or

electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would

not have to be stepped up.





4.33     CHEMICAL DELAYS





     Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in

some cases.  If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid,

and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat

through, then it can be used as a delay.  Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum

foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be

open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is

forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page.





















                _               _

               | |             | |

               | |             | |

               | |             | |

               | |_____________| |

               | |             | |

               | |  sulfuric   | |

               | |             | |

               | |  acid       | |

               | |             | |---------- aluminum foil

               | |_____________| |           (several thicknesses)

               |_________________|





     The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured

there with tape.  When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used

to ignite an explosive device in several ways.



     1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity.  If the acid that

        eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed

        underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container,

         a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the

        wires are immersed in the acid.



     2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.  If

        the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,

        the potassium chlorate will burst into flame.  This flame can be

        used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter

        for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50

        ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for

        the rest of the thermit.



     3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.







4.4     EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS





     This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to

a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which

are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.





4.41     PAPER CONTAINERS





     Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was

first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very

simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses

for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers

and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it

together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and

dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of

Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their

manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet

of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so

that it looks like this:













       ________________________________________________________

       |                                                      |\

       |                                                      | \

       |                                                      |  \

       |______________________________________________________|___\



       and then fold it again so that it looks like this:



       _______________________________________________________

       |                                                     /|

       |                                                    / |

       |                                                   /  |

       |__________________________________________________/___|



      A pocket is formed.  This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex,

flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-

oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder.  A fuse is then

inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill

out any of the explosive.  When the polumna is finished, it should be taped

together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,

and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit.  The finished

polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one

shown below:





             ^

            / \  ----- securely tape all corners

           /   \

          /     \

         /       \

        /         \

       /           \____________________________

      /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/  ---------- fuse









4.42     METAL CONTAINERS





     The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained

explosive.  Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match

heads.  They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-

tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed.  This process often kills

the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause

enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the

unfinished bomb.  By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the

less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb.  He would

buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).  First, he would drill a hole in

one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder

will not escape during handling.  The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long

inside the bomb.  He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,

possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight.  He would then

pour his explosive powder in the bomb.  To pack it tightly, he would take a

large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the

powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil

or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further.  Finally, he

would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help

prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe

cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,

causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.













     _________           _______________          __________

     |       |     ^^^^^^               ^^^^^^    |        |

     | |vvvvv|    |_________________________|     |vvvvvv| |

     | |                                                 | |

     | |                                                 | |

     | |                                                 | |

     | |                                                 | |

     | |           ___________________________           | |

     | |          |                           |          | |

     | |^^^^^|     vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv    |^^^^^^| |

     |_______|                                    |________|



     fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.







          ________                                ________

          | _____|________________________________|_____ |

          | |__________________________________________| |

          | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |

          | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|

          | | : : :  |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------

          | | paper  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|    fuse

          | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |

          | |________|_________________________________| |

          | |__________________________________________| |

          |______|                                |______|



          endcap                pipe               endcap

                                                   w/ hole



     fig. 2  Assembled pipe bomb.





     This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use.  If, however,

he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a

piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable

position.  A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding

it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper

pipe, it will split along the fold.  The safest method for making a pipe bomb

out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.

First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure

not to tear or rip the piping.  Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded

over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe.  A fuse hole should be

drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.

Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack

it with a large wad of tissue paper.  He would then flatten and fold the other

end of the pipe with a pair of pliers.  If he was not too dumb, he would do this

slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which

could set off the explosive.  A diagram is presented below:



                                                     ________

     _______________________________________________/       |

     |                                                      |

     |                                                  o   |

     |______________________________________________        |

                                                    \_______|



     fig. 1  pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)















                                                  ______

     ____________________________________________/  |  |

     |                                              |  |

     |                                            o |  |

     |___________________________________________   |  |

                                                 \__|__|



     fig. 2  pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)



                              ____________ fuse hole

                              |

                              v

     _________________________________________________

     |                             \ |____ |

     |                              \____| |

     |                               ______|

     |                              /

     |_____________________________/__________________



     fig. 3  pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)



                                                _________________ fuse

                                               /

                                               |

      ________   ______________________________|___   _______

      |  ____|  /     |- - - - - - - - - - -| - -  \  |___  |

      |  |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |

      |________ paper |- - -  low order explosive -  _______|

            \         | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /

             \_____________________________________/





     fig. 4  completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive

                (side view)









      A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for

a low-order explosive.  It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming

to fill.  But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge

with a pointed tool.  Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the

CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-

oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse.  These devices are commonly called

"crater makers".



     A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary

device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so

that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The

fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the

thermit.

     The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for

low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the

latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller

low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order

explosive would probably be used. It would look something like:



















                                         _______________________ fuse

                                         |

                                         |

                                         |

      _________                          |           _________

      |   ____|__________________________|___________|____   |

      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * * *  high explosive | * * * * * * * |   |

      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  *  ______    _______________|_    ______  * |   |

      |   | * * |  __|   /   - - - - - - | \   |__  | *  |   |

      |   |  *  |  |____/   low explosive - \____|  |  * |   |

      |   | * * |_______  - - - - - - - - -  _______| *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * *  \  - - - - - - - -  /  * * * * * |   |

      |   | * * * * * *  \_________________/  * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |

      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |

      |   |______________________________________________|   |

      |_______|                                      |_______|





     If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge,

then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb,

which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.



4.43     GLASS CONTAINERS





     Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there

are problems with them.  First, a glass container can be broken relatively

easily compared to metal or plastic containers.  Secondly, in the

not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would

probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small.  A bomb made out of

a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he

still has pieces of glass in his hand.  He is also missing the final segment of

his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...



     Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by

a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal

detectors in an airport or other public place.  All that need be done is fill

the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly

in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.





                    ________________________  fuse

                    |

                    |

                    |

               _____|_____

               | ___|___ |

               | >  |  < |  drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;

               | >  |  < |  be sure fuse will not come out of cap

               | >  |  < |

               |    |    |

               |         |

               |         |

               |         |  screw cap on bottle

               |         |

               |         |

               V         V











                 _________

                <         >

                <         >

                <         >

                  /     \

                 /       \

                /         \

               |           |  fill bottle with low-order explosive

               |           |

               |           |

               |           |

               |           |

               |___________|





     Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,

since glass is not an exceptionally strong container.  Much of the explosive

that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger

than a 16 oz. soda bottle.  Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for

high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand

the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was

able to detonate.







4.44     PLASTIC CONTAINERS





     Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since

they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping

can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones

used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with

plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not

detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by

heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be

glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used

as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a

drying agent works best in this type of device.

























































               ||               ||

               ||               ||

               ||\_____________/||

               ||               ||

               ||     epoxy     ||

               ||_______________||

               ||               ||

               ||    tissue     ||

               ||     paper     ||

               ||_______________||

               ||***************||

               ||***************||

               ||***************||

               ||***************||

               ||** explosive **||

               ||***************||

               ||***********-----------------------  fuse

               ||***************||

               ||||

               ||               ||

               ||    tissue     ||

               ||     paper     ||

               ||_______________||

               ||               ||

               ||     epoxy     ||

               || _____________ ||

               ||/             \||

               ||               ||

               ||               ||





     One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the

device can be filled with powder and fused.  Then, with another piece of tissue

paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy.  PVC pipe

works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an

inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch.  Other plastic puttys can be used

int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.









4.5     ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES





     The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person

who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives.  Some of this

information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks.  Advanced

uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount

of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage.  They almost always involve high-

order explosives.





4.51     SHAPED CHARGES





     A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs

the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be

used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds

of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order

explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL

EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!











               An example of a shaped charge is shown below.





                  + wire ________           _______ - wire

                                 |         |

                                 |         |

                                 |         |

 _                      _________|_________|____________

 ^                     | ________|_________|__________ |

 |                     | |       |         |         | |

 |                     | |       \ igniter /         | |

 |                     | |        \_______/          | |

 |                     | |     priming charge        | |

 |                     | |   (mercury fulminate)     | |

 |                     | |             ^             | |

 |                     | |            / \            | |

 |                     | |           /   \           | |

 |                     | |          /     \          | |

 |                     | |         /       \         | |

 |                     | |        /         \        | |

 |                     | |       /           \       | |

                       | |      /             \      | |

 8 inches high         | |     /               \     | |

                       | |    /       high      \    | |

 |                     | |   /      explosive    \   | |

 |                     | |  /        charge       \  | |

 |                     | | /                       \ | |

 |                     | |/                         \| |

 |                     | |             ^             | |

 |                     | |            / \            | |

 |                     | |           /   \           | |

 |                     | |          /     \          | |

 |                     | |         /       \         | |

 |                     | |        /         \        | |

 |                     | |       /           \       | |

 |                     | |      /             \      | |

 |                     | |     /               \     | |

 |                     | |    /                 \    | | ------- 1/2 inch

 |                     | |   /                   \   | |         thick steel

 |                     | |  /                     \  | |         pipe

 |                     | | /                       \ | |

 |                     | |/                         \| |

 |      hole for       | |                           | |     hole for

 |      screw          | |                           | |      screw

 |                     | |                           | |

 V_______   ___________| |                           | |___________  ________

 |______|   |____________|                           |_____________| |______|



                         |<------- 8 inches -------->|



     If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would

direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening

of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the

explosive material.  This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees.  A device

such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful

electromagnet.





















4.52     TUBE EXPLOSIVES





     A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that

shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with

a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive

container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced;

a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of

explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole.

The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever

it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like

this:

















































































































               ||      ||

               ||      ||

               ||\____/||

               || epoxy||

               ||______||

               ||      ||

               ||tissue||

               || paper||

               ||______||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               || RDX  ||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               ||******||

               || ____ ||

               || | s| ||

               || | q| ||

               || | u| ||

               || | i| ||

               || | b| ||

               || | b| ||

               || |__| ||

               ||__||__||

               ||tissue||

               || paper||

               ||__||__||

               ||  ||  ||

               || epoxy||

               ||  ||  ||

               || _||_ ||

               ||/ || \||

               ||  ||  ||

               ||  ||  ||

                   ||_______ + wire ______________

                   |

                   |________ - wire ______________













     When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap

it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube

bomb together.  After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires,

and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.







4.53     ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS





     If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small

particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion

similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The

tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,

pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and

ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push

the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle

explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly

flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,

or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be

extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon

jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge

was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this

occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely

occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish

this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.  Also, instead

of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high

explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion

does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.









4.54     LIGHTBULB BOMBS







     An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the

light.  This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead

light socket.  A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.  It also comes

with its own initiator and electric ignition system.  On some lightbulbs, the

lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a

lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.  This must

be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum.  When the glue

gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base.  On other

bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or

oxy-acetylene torch.  When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked

in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb.  In either case,

once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the

bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.  If the

glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base

with epoxy.  If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient

to hold the explosive in the in the bulb.  Then, after making sure that the

socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be

done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket.  Such a device has been

used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the

room for a bomb without first turning on the light.



















4.55     BOOK BOMBS





     Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where

perpetrators of violence run wild.  Bags and briefcases are often searched

by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend

to set off a bomb.  One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is

called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of

a book.  Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of

the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb.  Dictionaries, law

books, large textbooks, and other such books work well.  When an individual

makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for

the place where the book bomb will be placed.  The actual construction of a

book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping

saw.  First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together.  By pouring

an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling

the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will

hold all of the book's pages together tightly.  After the glue-water solution

has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,

the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each

page must be thoroughly soaked.  It is extremely important that the covers of

the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.

Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice

works best.  When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must

be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.

Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a

rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell

of the book's pages.  The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:





               ________________________

               | ____________________ |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |                  | |

               | |__________________| |

               |______________________|



                 (book covers omitted)





     This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.

After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled

variety, the bomber places it inside the book.  The bomb itself, and whatever

timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling

or shifting about.  Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has

been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its

destination.





















4.56     PHONE BOMBS





     The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past

to kill or injure a specific individual.  The basic idea is simple: when the

person answers the phone, the bomb explodes.  If a small but powerful high

explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the

current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the

high explosive in the person's hand.  Nasty.  All that has to be done is

acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece

cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.

Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,

and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1.

Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.  When the individual to whom

the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and

remove it.  This will allow current to flow through the squib.  Note that

the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the

phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape.  It is highly probable

that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...





5.0     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS





     Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social

deviant's arsenal.  Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over

individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to

kill.  Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows

to shotguns.





5.1     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS





     For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive

that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward.  This

means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.







5.11     BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION





     Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition.  It is

extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter

to produce explosive arrows or bolts.  If, however, one can acquire aluminum

piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire

segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates

upon impact, or with a fuse.  All that need be done is find an aluminum tube

of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and

epoxy.  Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-

order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top.  Cut a slot in the piece

of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making

sure to leave a small hole.  Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and

secure it with super glue.  Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical

or duct tape, and make fins out of tape.  Or, fins can be bought at a sporting

goods store, and glued to the shaft.  The finished product should look like:



















               _____

               |   | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap

               ||*||

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*| ----------- aluminum piping

                |*|

                |e|

                |x|

                |p|

                |l|

                |o|

                |s|

                |i|

                |v|

                |e|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

                |*|

               /|_|\

              / |t| \

              | |p| |

              | |_| |

              | |e| | -------- fins

              | |p| |

              | |y| |

              |_|_|_|

                |_|





     tp: tissue paper



     epy: epoxy



     When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap

explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.





5.12     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS





     The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.

A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive

or poisoned projectile.  The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile

is not difficult.  Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use

of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies.

Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed.  Next, the

capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive.  An additional

high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive,

if one of the larger capsules were used.  Finally, the explosive capsule would

be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end

containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive

struck the target first.  Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch

long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this:











                 ____________________

                /mercury |           \-----------------------

               (fulminate|   R.D.X.   )---------------------- } tassels

                \________|___________/-----------------------









5.13     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS





     A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon.  It can throw a shooter

marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy.  Inside of 200 ft., it could well

be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area.  Because of the

relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the

wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.

A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device

by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material.  Also, such a pipe

could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would

be lit before the device was shot.  One would have to make sure that the fuse

was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it

reached its intended target.  Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that

are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for

wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of

their light weight.









5.2     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS





     When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and

rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with

a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be

difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home.  There

is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition.  If the ammunition

is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the

slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur.  For

this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.





5.21     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS





     If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her

handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive

explosive and a few simple tools.  One would first purchase all lead bullets,

and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive.  By drilling a hole

in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of

an explosive.  After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed

in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle.  A diagram of a completed

exploding bullet is shown below.



                      _o_ ------------ drop of wax

                     /|*|\

                    | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive

                    | |_| |

                    |_____|



     This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.











5.22     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS



     Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create

some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun

shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed.

Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to

the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-

launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the

shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches

away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide

what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a

chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb

(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to

the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or

incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device

has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile

is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun

projectile is shown below:









               ____

               ||  |

               ||  |

               ||  | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel

               ||  |

               ||__|

               || |

               || | ------- fuse

               || |

               ||

               ||

               ||

               || --------- dowel

               ||

               ||

               ||

               ||

               ||

               || --------- insert this end into shotgun









5.3     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS





     This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for

compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns,

and .22 cal pellet guns.  These weapons, although usually thought of as kids

toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.





























5.31     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS





     A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or

pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber

of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle

velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber

projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a

caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use

primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun

stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers

detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if

they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit

in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they

will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is

attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the

tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A

diagram of such a projectile appears below:





             _____ primers _______

            |                    |

            |                    |

            |                    |

            V                    V

          ______                ______

          | ________________________ |-------------------

          | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or

          | ________________________ |-------------------   cotton

          |_____                _____|-------------------

                    ^

                    |

                    |

                    |_______ antenna tubing



     The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.

The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.

Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to

insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer.  The entire projectile

should be about 3/4 of an inch long.







5.32     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS





     A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at

close ranges.  Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be

adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles.  A design similar to that used in

section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller.

Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have

to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since

there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber.  A #11 cap is too small,

but anything larger will do nicely.

























6.0     ROCKETS AND CANNONS





     Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.

Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are

difficult or impossible to acquire.  They are not, however, impossible to make.

Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things.

A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear.







6.1     ROCKETS





     Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years

before Christ.  They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks.

They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate,

expensive, and unpredictable.  In modern times, however, rockets are used

constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil.

Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they

can make or buy rocket engines.  Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space

age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required.  Estes, a subsidiary of

Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines.  Their

most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust;

enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance.

Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which

develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust.  These model rocket engines are quite reliable,

and are designed to be fired electrically.  Most model rocket engines have

three basic sections.  The diagram below will help explain them.





     __________________________________________________________

     |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard

      \  clay  | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c|            casing

       \_______|  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * |  . . . |l|

        ______ _ - - - thrust - - -  | smoke | eject  |a|

       / clay  |  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * | . . . .|y|

      /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______

     |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard

                                              casing





     The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted.  When the area labeled

"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a

propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot,

rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward.

After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is

ignited.  It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that

has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,

white, or yellow in color.  This section exists so that the rocket will be seen

when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.  When it is burned up, it

ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject".  The ejection charge is finely

powdered black powder.  It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect.  The

explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket.

It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...























     Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system.  Typical engine

labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5.  The letter is an

indicator of the power of an engine.  "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"

engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on.  The

number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds.

the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust

period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a

3 second delay.





NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum

      dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide.

      The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.







6.11     BASIC ROCKET BOMB





     A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered

to its target by means of a rocket.  Most people who would make such a device

would use a model rocket engine to power the device.  By cutting fins from balsa

wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a

basic rocket could be constructed.  Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2

cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added.  To insure that the fuse of

the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge

of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool.  The fuse of the bomb

should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.





          ____________ rocket engine

          |                         _________ crater maker

          |                         |

          |                         |

          V                         |

     _______________________________V_

     |_______________________________|  ______________________

      \   | - - - - - -|***|::::|      /# # # # # # # # # # # \

       \__| - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___/  # # # # # # # # # # # \

        __  - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # #  explosive  # # )

       /  | - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___   # # # # # # # # # # # /

      /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/

     |_______________________________|





     thrust> - - - - - -

     smoke>  ***

     ejection charge> ::::





     Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket

engine.  Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge

Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such

as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.







   Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that

the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram:











          |\

          | \

          |  \

          |   \  <--------- glue this to rocket engine

          |    \

          |     \

          |      \

          |       |

          |       |

          |       |

  leading edge    |

   ------->       |

          |       |

          |       |  trailing edge

          |       |    <--------

          |       |

          |       |

          |       |

          |       |

           \_____/





     The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so

that they are rounded.  This will help make the rocket fly straight.  A two

inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it

from.  A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod.  The segment of

a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins

of the rocket.  A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.







                              |

           fin                | <------ fin

            |                 |           |

            |                 |           |

            |               __|__         |

            V              /     \        V

           ---------------|       |---------------

                           \_____/

                              |o <----------- segment of plastic straw

                              |

                              |

                              | <------ fin

                              |

                              |



     By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a

launch rod can be made.  After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is

simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic

straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one

illustated on the following page:





























                        ____

                       /    \

                      |      |

          cut here _____     |

                       |     |

                       |     |

                       |    / \

                       V   /   \

         _________________/     \________________

        /                                        \

       /                                          \

      /____________________________________________\

                                   ^

                                   |

                                   |

                    and here ______|





     Bend wire to this shape:





                         _______ insert into straw

                         |

                         |

                         |

                         V

          ____________________________________________

          \

           \

            \

             \

              \  <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle

               |

               |

               |

               |

               |

               | <---------- put this end in ground

               |







6.12     LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB





     Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.  Model

rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-

stage rockets.  An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an

engine.  Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge

explodes.  If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0"

engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning

particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section.

 This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of

weight.  The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as

travels, and it gains velocity.  A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat

differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly

straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.  This is

accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the

center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the

rocket.  A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page:













                    ___

                   /   \

                   |   |

                   | C |

                   | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker

                   |   |

                   |   |

                   |___|

                   |   |

                   |   |

                   |   |

                   | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine

                  /| 6 |\

                 / | | | \

                /  | 5 |  \

               /   |___|   \ ---- fin

              /   /|   |\   \

             /   / |   | \   \

            /   /  |   |  \   \

           /   /   | C |   \   \

          |   /    | 6 |    \   |

          |  /     | | |     \  |

          | /      | 0 |      \ |

          |/       |___|       \|

          |       /     \       |

          \______/   ^   \______/ ------- fin

                     |

                     |

                     |

                     |

                     C6-0 rocket engine





     The fuse is put in the bottom engine.





     Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it

a longer range.  It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the

fin area gets larger.







6.13     MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS





     "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle.  The concept is

simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile.  This can be

done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers

and can buy rocket engines.  By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a

rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive

devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the

following page:





























              ___

             /   \

             |   |

             | C |

            | M |

             |___|

          ___|   |___

          |  |   |  |

          |  | T |  |

         / \ | U | / \

        /   \| B |/   \

        |   || E ||   |

        | C ||   || C |

        | M ||   || M |

        |   ||___||   |

        \___/| E |\___/

             | N |

            /| G |\

           / | I | \

          /  | N |  \

         /   | E |   \

        /    |___|    \

       / fin/  |  \ fin\

      |    /   |   \    |

       \__/    |    \__/



               ^

               |____ fin





     The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape.

the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper.

The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder.

Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted

in these holes.  A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that

its fuse is inside the tube.  A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom

engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the

coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it.







6.2     CANNON





     The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the

11th century.  It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,

loaded, and fired.  Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot,

otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the

barrel to explode.  A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble,

if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.

































6.21     BASIC PIPE CANNON





     A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone.  The

only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.

This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam.  Copper or

aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to

withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.  If

one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be

made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal.  Such a pipe

MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth

on the interior.  If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.  Otherwise, the

pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe.

A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug.

Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of

grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad

of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge.  Brace the cannon

securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run.  If the person is

lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by

pieces of exploding barrel.  Such a cannon would look like this:



             __________________ fuse hole

             |

             |

             V

      ________________________________________________________________

     | |______________________________________________________________|

     |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge

     | ______|______|____|____________________________________________

     |_|______________________________________________________________|





     An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2

cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and

construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the

cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for

a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue

paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse,

and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in

about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this:





           ___

          /   \

          |   |

          | C |

          | M |

          |   |

          |   |

          |\ /|

          | | | ---- tape

          |_|_|

            |

            | ------ fuse

























6.22     ROCKET FIRING CANNON





     A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the

only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly

further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the

initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further

than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble

a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:





           ___

          /   \

          |   |

          | C |

          | M |

          |   |

          |   |

          |___|

          | E |

          | N |

          | G |

          | I |

          | N |

          | E |

          |___|





     the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not

be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded.  Thus, the delay before

the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes.

Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon

will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high

velocity.







7.0     PYROTECHNICA ERRATA





     There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of

violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large

military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines.

Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display

rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the

ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which

consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running

through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive

high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful

to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over

a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.































7.1     SMOKE BOMBS





     One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in

many way would be a smoke bomb.  Such a device could conceal the getaway route,

or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover.  Such a device, were it to

produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a

building, for example.  Smoke bombs are not difficult to make.  Although the

military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds,

such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist.

Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.



     Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such

as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion.  The base material will burn

well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but

not completely or cleanly.  Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material,

produces large amounts of smoke.  Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount

of oil in it, and a base powder works well also.  Other excellent smoke

ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many

chemical mixtures.  The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and

sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke.  Most of the fuel-oxodizer

mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base

powder.  The list of possibilities goes on and on.  The trick to a successful

smoke bomb also lies in the container used.  A plastic cylinder works well, and

contributes to the smoke produced.  The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse

enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an

explosion.  This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt

and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to

prevent an explosion.





7.2     COLORED FLAMES



     Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists.

by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the

ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball.  The materials that

produce the different colors of flames appear below.





COLOR               MATERIAL                        USED IN

                                       

_______________________________________________________________________________

red                 strontium                      road flares,

                    salts                          red sparklers

                    (strontium nitrate)

_______________________________________________________________________________

green               barium salts                   green sparklers

                    (barium nitrate)

_______________________________________________________________________________

yellow              sodium salts                   gold sparklers

                    (sodium nitrate)

_______________________________________________________________________________

blue                powdered copper                blue sparklers,

                    old pennies

_______________________________________________________________________________

white               powdered magnesium             firestarters,

                    or aluminum                    aluminum foil

_______________________________________________________________________________

purple              potassium permanganate         purple fountains,

                                                   treating sewage













7.3     TEAR GAS



     A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use

it with ease against a large number of people.  Tear gas is fairly complicated

to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize

its great potential for harm.  One method for its preparation is shown below.



     EQUIPMENT

     _________



     1.  ring stands (2)

     2.  alcohol burner

     3.  erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml

     4.  clamps (2)

     5.  rubber stopper

     6.  glass tubing

     7.  clamp holder

     8.  condenser

     9.  rubber tubing

     10.  collecting flask

     11.  air trap

     12.  beaker, 300 ml





     MATERIALS

     _________



     10 gms  glycerine



     2 gms sodium bisulfate



     distilled water





1.)  In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms

     of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.



2.)  Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.



3.)  The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.



4.)  When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown

     residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.  Remove the

     heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive.



5.)  The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting

     flask is tear gas.  It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place.





7.4     FIREWORKS





     While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror,

they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries.  There are several

basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit,

or nasty uses.





















7.41     FIRECRACKERS





     A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.

The instructions are below:



     1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.

        "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.



     2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill

        it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter

        of the tubing.  Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as

        specified on the package.



     3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and

        insert a desired length of fuse.



     4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive.  Flash

        powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,

        nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures

        will do nicely.  Fill the tube almost to the top.



     5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper

        and a pencil or other suitable ramrod.  Be sure to leave enough space

         for more epoxy.



     6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow

         it to dry.



     7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use

        flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for

        colors.  By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it

        to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the

        sparkler.   By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the

        device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color

        as the sparkler.  By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will

        be produced.  White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,

        or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.



        Example:  Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode

               with a red flash, and throw out white sparks.  First,

               I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material

               inside it.   Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely

               powder it.  Then, I would mix a small amount of this

               material with the flash powder.  (NOTE: FLASH POWDER

               MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND

               EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!)  I would mix it in a ratio of

               9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler

               material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil

               I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight

               outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't

               react.  Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount

               of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the

               firecracker.



     8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,

        professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.



















7.42     SKYROCKETS





     An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from

model rocket engines.  Estes engines are recommended.



     1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering

        that the power doubles with each letter.  (See sect. 6.1 for details)



     2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly

        fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper

        and glue.



     3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that

        the powder is exposed.  Glue the tube to the engine, so that the

        tube covers at least half the engine.  Pour a small charge of

        flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.



     4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,

        various types of effects can be produced.



     5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick

        in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or

           M.R.V.'s can be produced.



     6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with

        the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.





7.43     ROMAN CANDLES



     Roman candles are impressive to watch.  They are relatively difficult

to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are

well worth the trouble.



     1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it

        with several layers of paper and/or masking tape.  This must

        be done to prevent the tube from exploding.  Cut the tube into

        about 10 inch lengths.



     2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy

        and the drying agent.  About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.



     3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,

        and insert a desired length of water proof fuse.  Make sure that

        the fuse fits tightly.



     4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the

        tube.



     5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired

        color.  Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and

        a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of

        60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex.  After

        mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing

        continuously, until a damp paste is formed.  This paste should

        be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone.

        Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube.  Allow

        the ball to dry.















     6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube.  It should slide down

        fairly easily.  Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack

         it gently against the ball with a pencil.



     7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed

        in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run.  If the device works,

        a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of

        about 30 feet.  This height can be increased by adding a slightly

        larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.



     8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.



     9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,

        producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.







8.0     LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION





     Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained

 through a public or university library.  There are also many publications that

are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to

make explosives at home.  Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary

magazines and newspapers.  This list is presented to show the large number of

places that information and materials can be purchased from.   It also includes

fireworks companies and the like.





COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS               WHAT COMPANY SELLS

               



 FULL AUTO CO. INC.                     EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,

 P.O. BOX 1881                          PAPER TUBING

 MURFREESBORO, TN

 37133

_______________________________________________________________________________



 UNLIMITED                              CHEMICALS AND FUSE

 BOX 1378-SN

 HERMISTON, OREGON

 97838

_______________________________________________________________________________



 AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS                FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH

 SR BOX 30                              SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES

 DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA

 18328

_______________________________________________________________________________



 BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.             BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,

 125 RUNNELS STREET                     AIR RIFLES

 P.O. BOX 226

 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN

 48060

_______________________________________________________________________________



 CROSSMAN AIR GUNS                      AIR GUNS

 P.O. BOX 22927

 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK

 14692











_______________________________________________________________________________



 EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.     TEAR GAS GRENADES,

 316 CALIFORNIA AVE.                    PROTECTION DEVICES

 RENO, NEVADA

 89509

_______________________________________________________________________________



 BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.              CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS

 BOX 1451

 JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN

 53547

_______________________________________________________________________________



 NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.         CLASS "C" FIREWORKS

 P.O. BOX 3504

 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT

 06095

_______________________________________________________________________________



 RAINBOW TRAIL                          CLASS "C" FIREWORKS

 BOX 581

 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA

 19028

_______________________________________________________________________________



 STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.              CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS

 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD

 RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN

 49878

_______________________________________________________________________________



 WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.              CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS

 P.O. BOX 11                            (GOOD PRICES!)

 ROCHESTER, INDIANNA

 46975

_______________________________________________________________________________





BOOKS





THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK



THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL



MILITARY EXPLOSIVES



FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS



































9.0     CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS



     In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she

wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the

chemicals to make the explosive from a lab.  A list of such chemicals in order

of priority would probably resemble the following:



     LIQUIDS                    SOLIDS

     _______                    ______



     ____     Nitric Acid        ____     Potassium Perchlorate

     ____     Sulfuric Acid      ____     Potassium Chlorate

     ____     95% Ethanol        ____     Picric Acid (usually a powder)

     ____     Toluene            ____     Ammonium Nitrate

     ____     Perchloric Acid    ____     Powdered Magnesium

     ____     Hydrochloric Acid  ____     Powdered Aluminum



                         ____    Potassium Permanganate

                         ____    Sulfur

                         ____    Mercury

                         ____    Potassium Nitrate

                         ____    Potassium Hydroxide

                         ____    Phosphorus

                         ____    Sodium Azide

                         ____    Lead Acetate

                         ____    Barium Nitrate





10.0     USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY



     In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic

ones.  A list of useful chemical reactions is presented.  It assumes knowledge

of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following

reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school

chemistry book.





1.  potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide

     K(OH)       +     HClO     ---->     KClO     +    H O

                   4              4           2



2.  potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide

      "       +     HNO     ---->     KNO     +     "

                  3             3



3.  ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide

     NH OH       +     HClO     ---->     NH ClO     +     "

       3              4                 3   4



4.  ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide

        NH OH       +     HNO     ---->     NH NO     +     "

       3             3                      3  3



5.  powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium



A.     aluminum foil    +    6HCl    ---->   2AlCl   +   3H

                                                3            2



B.     2AlCl  (aq)   +    3Mg    ---->  3MgCl (aq)   +  2Al

          3                                  2













     The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container

which must be filtered and dried.   This same method works with nitric and

sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high

explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.





11.0     ABOUT THE AUTHOR





     The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending

a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering.  He was

raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education

there.  He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years

of age.  At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly

more powerful than a large firecracker.  He continued to produce explosive

devices for several years.  He also became interested in model rocketry, and has

built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets.  While in high

school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the

head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies.  At this time, at age 18, he produced

his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's

back yard.  He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition,

and other pyrotechnic devices.  While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-

Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he

did not make the device.  The author learned, however, and  then decided to

reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he

chooses to abstain from their production.  An occasional rocket that produces

effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the

midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day

of the year.





               Pax et Discordia,



               the Author





END OF PART 1 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST



PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons 

------   Information from the Usenet.  The Usenet is a worldwide network of

         15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing!



At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather 

than the molded aluminum.  We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a 

bunch of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube 

of two feet or more.  At the end we would tape a can with the bottom 

intact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a 

small hole in the side at the base. 

We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it reliably. 

Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placed 

therein.  In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic 

solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and 

sometimes filled with washers for weight.  When taken to parties or picnics, 

we would use whatever was handy.  Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with 

potato chips provided spectacular entertainment. 

Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole in 

the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments.  The 

"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite 

it. 

 

BOOM!  Whoosh!  The clock never worked after that! 

---------- 

Our version of the potatoe chip cannon, was built similarly. 

Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the 

seventh had church key holes all around one end.  This was spiral 

wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape.  A wooden shoulder rest 

and forward hand grip was taped to the tube.  For ignition we used 

lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push button on 

the hand grip.  A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way 

back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in 

one of two holes in the end.  The ignition wire was poked through 

the other hole. 

We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move.  When fired 

with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp!  At maximum range 

the ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. 

Closer up the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent.  When 

launched at a moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally 

rattle anyone inside. 

Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls.



END OF PART 2 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST



PART 3 - Fun with dry ice.  LOTS of fun with dry ice.  Also from

------   the Usenet.

XXXX@XXXXX.XXX.COM (XXXX XXXXX) writes:



>... if you fill a pot with boiling water, then add some dishsoap, and 

>then drop in a large chunk of dry ice, you get a large number of 

>bubbles VERY quickly.  We're talking terabubbles. Do this outside or 

>you will be sorry.



>Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool?  As long as you 

>chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really 

>impressive if the water is warm enuff

    



With CO2 flame extinguisher at the ready, here goes --



from _FM 10-0: TRICKS, AWFUL_  (includes material from rec.humor):



DRY ICE



Time Bombs:



1.  Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic 

cans that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A 

film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly 

and take a fair amount of effort to open).



Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite 

sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your 

back.



Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his 

attention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it 

somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then 

leave.



Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear 

a loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when 

the CO2 pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid.



In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will 

proabably never figure out what made the noise.



2.  Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle.  Put in 

as many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. 

Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. 

After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will 

result, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-

liter bottle.  



More things to do with Dry Ice:

"I put it in my teacher's coffee. (Holy sh-t, the place is on fire!)"

"Throw it in toilets.  (Creature from the Brown Lagoon)"

"Make soda from ordinary juice, etc."

"Blow up balloons and condoms with it  (Put a chunk in a balloon, tie 

up the end.)"

"Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..."

"You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you 

KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY.  It looks like you're smoking or on fire."

Fluorescein (the stuff in navy-surplus sea dye markers) is 

effective in swimming pools.  Or try a "Baby Ruth" candy bar...



END OF PART 3 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST



PART 4 - General naughty bits.

------

                    More Fun Stuff for Terrorists



                             ------------

                             Carbide Bomb

                             ------------



This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some

calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and

can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this

stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some

water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to

produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in

cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal

pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice

fireball!



                      -------------------------

                      Portable Grenade Launcher

                      -------------------------



If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an

aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade

FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole

left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you

are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of

aluminim go all over the place!!



                      --------------------------

                      Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower

                      --------------------------



For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a

switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of

the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.

Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the

switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached

to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply

hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no

one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!





END OF PART 4 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST



PART 5- Specialized nastiness.   Fun at school.  

------  (Added 8-23-90)





                 --> How to have fun at school <-- 

                     ------------------------- 

                            By: Walkon

                       Temple of the Un-Dead 

                     General - Files - Section 

 

 

       This works best if you happen to have a lot of derelict 

friends, as I do... Your first day of school you should bring 

the following items, to insure a prosperous school year: 

 

   1) Fountain pen (and extra ink refills) 

   2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue) 

   3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth) 

   4) Balloons (small sized for convenience) 

   5) Mirror (small hand held) 

   6) Liquid soap 

   7) Lighter, (matches as alternate) 

   8) Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great) 

   9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small) 

  10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal de-congestant type) 

  11) Wire (10-20 ft) 

  12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.) 

  13) Ziplock baggies 

  14) Half of an orange 

  15) Light bulb (75 watts and over are great) 

 

       This will do for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the 

pennies and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians 

try to get 'em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the 

fire alarm (so it goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) 

and to a door someplace... (principals preferably)

       Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunsen burner

(in chem) and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will

guarantee you will know when the coin is picked up... While you're using

the bunsen burner, fill your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it

tight and put it in your pocket... later, take a firecracker, and glue it 

to the bottle, use a cigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the 

bathroom, and get to class fast... (gas and glue make a nice flame)...  

       While you're in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, 

and when the superintendent goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a 

nice little surprise...  

 

       Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no 

one is in the room, take off the speaker cover on the PA system, and hook 2 

wires from it, to your mic. ( then into your locker) This is good for get-

ting your friends out of classes... Just ask for them... (use your tools for

that one, and try to be neat about it)... 

 

 

        Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh... 

"Friend's" locker combination... after you get that, take that little baggie 

you got, and put the orange in it... let it sit for a week or four, then

open the baggie, and place it in your friends locker... I can guarantee he/

she will love it... 

 

        Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over

the key hole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes  out, thus he 

has to truck around all day in his gym stuff, (unless  you rent him your 

screwdriver to pry the penny off)  

 

        Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas 

that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the  balloon 

tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you  know, the ones 

that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette....

get the picture? Good... 

 

 

        Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a slight jerking 

motion with your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, whatever 

you're aiming at) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have 

one of those, it makes it too easy to find out who did it when there's ink 

all over the principals face... (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings...) 

 

        Liquid soap is great for use in crowded hallways, it turns every-

body into a ice skating star, (works especially well when people come in 

from the rain)... If your school is anything like the one I go to, people 

never flush the toilets, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice 

surprise, I mean, what happens when the soap is not flushed out of the 

toilet, and the suds aren't flushed out either? The janitors have a 

really good time trying to figure out that one... (glue a quarter in

one of the urinals, always fun)... Turn off the water under the sinks too.

Getting back to the soap, it is also good on the hand railings in hall-

ways and on steps, If you mix perfume with it, some poor grub has to have 

that stench on him all day.





 

       165



[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]





[ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]

[ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / Exilic Xyth - Sysop / 24 hours 9600 - ]

[ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]

[ -          The Modern Speeders Guide to Radar and State Troopers         - ]

[ -                             By : Exilic Xyth                           - ]

[ -                             January 11, 1988                           - ]

[ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]







         Introduction:



                   Touched off by the discussion on Ripco <312>-528-5020, I

 found many users asking questions about police radar, radar detectors, and

 speeding.  With Ron Majors talking about the oil spill that will appear in

 detail on the news at ten I thought a informative file on the subject might

 be beneficial.  I myself had my first experience with police radar in my

 fathers car, then following in baseball and my own driving, much more on the

 subject.  What a fascinating device, that it will return your speed instantly,

 what fun one would be to have!  After a quick talk with a police friend of

 mine, I soon took possession of a used police radar gun.



         Part one: Operation.



                   Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best

 demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves.  The doppler effect is the 

 relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'.  Sometime, all of you must have

 had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go, 

 you might have noticed that the horn <an F flat on most american cars> 

 begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower

 tone.  The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by the 

 forward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch.  As the car passes,

 the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out.

 Police radar works in much the same way.  The major differences are the

 frequency and the concentration of the carrier.

                   As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions

 on police radar frequencies.  Before, only two frequencies were approved for 

 police radar use.  X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, and 

 K-band <24.15 Ghz>.  I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence

 supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation.

 Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam.  They begin

 with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at 

 the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units

 can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft..

 At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so

 for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft..  A radar signal

 transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will

 bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna).  If the

 object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces.

 This is most easily visualized watching water ripples.  Assume now that I

 have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward,

 assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at

 1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart.  The ripples are 

 therefore also one second apart.  Upon bouncing off a stationary object

 the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed 

 <Not really the same speed, but let's not complicate things>.  Now let

 us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second,

 1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the 

 pebble.  Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back.

 The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the

 boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>.  This means

 that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot

 apart.  The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed

 is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot.  The ripple strikes the boat

 and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple.  The process works 

 inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact.  

 As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the

 other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples.

 Police radar works in the same way with microwaves.  The microwave signal

 bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency.  In this way

 the radar unit determines the speed of the object.  Radar is only accurate

 when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun,

 although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't.

 Cosine error can be defined as this:  When a radar signal bounces off an

 object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a

 portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction

 angle.  If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is

 20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects

 actual speed.  cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed.

 For example:  A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h..  The state trooper, in his

 infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his

 quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires

 an invisible beam of microwave energy.  The officer however, being the rookie

 he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45

 degrees.  Cos (45) = .707106781  .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859 

 53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen.  Lucky motorist.

 Sorry 40 column users.  



         |

         |\

         | \

         |  \        - Cosine Error -

         |   \

         | 45 \

         | deg.\ - radar beam

         |      \ 

         |       \

         v        \

    Direction of   \

     cars travel    \

                     \

                      X - state trooper.



         Part 2: Application



                   In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued,

and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error.  Police have

been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technology

has become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with

the slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more

difficult.  In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists

in radar technology include:  A> Instant on radar.  B> K-band radar. and

C> Cosine error correcting radar units.





                   Instant on radar.

                             With the increase of radar receivers, or

"Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motorists

first line of defense.  The most damaging advance in the war against speeding

motorists is instant on radar.  The idea behind instant on radar is to make

the radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late to

react to.  Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketed 

until late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the first

instant on radar guns.  It operates by deactivating the oscillator until 

triggered by the officer.  When used properly and under the right traffic

conditions, it is indefensible.  It works like a camera, the officer

operating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over a

hill.  When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, the

officer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car.

As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing down

is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenth

of a second.



                   K-band Radar.

                             When radar detectors were first marketed by

the markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar.  X-band.

In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band 

was brought to life.  K-band is a different frequency that could not be

picked up by the primitive detectors of the age.  However, as the 

frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollar

will detect both X and K bands.  K band is more dangerous as most K-band

guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns.

This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you.



                   Cosine error correcting guns.



                             Cosine error was a major falling of radar

in the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, the

result was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining the

angle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car.  Also new in correcting cosine error were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed reading

received by the gun is locked in and displayed.





                    Moving radar guns.

                             

                             Until new developments, all radar units

had to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actual

speed.  Moving radar ended this trend.  Moving radar works like this.  First the radar gun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed

object.  The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from

the now taken closing speed to the target car.

                             Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h.

                             Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h.

                             120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h..





         Part 3: Defense

                   From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought

to defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and

topping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors'  The unfortunate conditions

now favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introduction

of new radar technologies such as instant on radar.



                  Detectors:



                          The simple radar receiver is the first line of

defense from radar.  Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors

of today are designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false

alarms.  Good detectors will measure signal strength and type <K or X>

and have an effective range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well

over a mile.  Sensitivity tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and

108 dBm/cm^2 for K band <Both set by the passport>.  A detector can give

you an excellent advantage over radar by alerting you it's there.  Detectors

become especially useful in chicago where instant on radar is not typically

used.

                   Jammers:

                             Radar jammers are essentially units that

transmit microwaves at a frequency dictating a certain speed.  The result is

regardless of your speed, the police radar unit will display the speed you

set the jammer to transmit.  Jammers are highly illegal and will be

confiscated if discovered, expect a stiff fine.

                   

                   Chip's detector.



                             This is a new device, which is really a scanner

on the police radio band.  It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the

patrol cars in some states as part of their dispatch system.  The signal 

carries for about three miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you

are within that range of a highway patrol unit.  It also allows scanning

of police radio channels.



         Last words.



                   Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used

properly, it can be deadly.  As I have said before instant on radar is

impossible to avoid when there is no other traffic around, regardless of

a detector.  The only thing that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which 

will most likely not serve you well unless it is WELL hidden.  Radar

jammers are dangerous with the introduction of the HAWK, a radar unit by

Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in the hold mode.

                   Aside from radar, VASCAR

                  <Visual average speed computer and recorder>

                   is a new danger to motorists.  It is basically a stopwatch

used to time your movement between two point of which the interval distance

is known.  Using the formula    Average velocity = distance / time, the state

trooper can determine your speed without setting off your detector.

                   Instant on radar defense.



                             The only real defense for instant on radar

is traffic.  Traffic will cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more

often, cluing you into his presence.   A jammer well hidden will help,

but the best technique is to follow a car making good time.  Any police

units in the area will clock him first, and legally they have to ticket him,

unless you're too close.





Remember: 

    Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible

    for any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational

    purposes only.  The state troopers enforce speed limits for your

    safety.



                   Radar guns: Models.



                             Radar guns are manufactured by many different

companies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur.

                             The deadliest gun now available is the HAWK

manufactured by Kustom Signals.  It is the first gun capable of clocking

cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car.  It has two antennas, one 

forward, and one back.  Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capable

of detecting radar jammers.  These run about 2000$



                             Kr-11

                             This gun is a two piece model which uses

a weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed 

while not triggering detectors.  This gun permits a faster clocking time for 

instant on moving radar, it runs about $1200



                             Falcon

                             This is a hand held gun operating on K band

Small and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about

600$



                             Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12

                             400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand

held radar guns made by Kustom Signals



                             All these units are available to you via me

for less than the troopers pay for them.  For prices, and statistics, 

call my board at (312) - 787 - 2174 or send me mail at Ripco (312) 528-5020



                             Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$

                             I personally enjoy harassing that 911

                             who barrels by at 95 with a detector.





                                       Questions?

                                                 The Dark Side:

                                                 (312) - 787 - 2174

                                                 Ripco

                                                 (312) - 528 - 5020

                                                 The Courts of Chaos

                                                 ( My sister board )

                                                 (312) - 915 - 0947



[ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ]

[ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / 24 hours / Too many megs / 9600 bd - ]

[ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] 





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{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}

{=--=}                                                                  {=--=}

{=--=}                     Picking Combination Locks                    {=--=}

{=--=}                                                                  {=--=}

{=--=}                A Metal Communications Presentation               {=--=}

{=--=}                                                                  {=--=}

{=--=}                    Written by:  The Byte Byter                   {=--=}

{=--=}                                                                  {=--=}

{=--=} The writer of this text file takes <all> responsibility for what {=--=}

{=--=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for   {=--=}

{=--=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for{=--=}

{=--=} legally. Well, on with the text file.                            {=--=}

{=--=}                                                                  {=--=}

{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}

{=--=} Call: /\/\etalland 1  10megs AE/BBS/Cat-Fur Line! [503]538-0761  {=--=}

{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}





     Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text 

file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help 

you.  First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock.  When the lock

is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch 

on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it.

To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually(that 

sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the

pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open.  I will now

tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste

all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the 

combination to begin with).  First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a 

hairpin?  Well, just ask your mom.  She will have one.  If she asks what its 

for, say ya gotta hold something together...  If she says use a rubberband or

use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip

off a box of 50 or so.  Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling).  Once you

have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off

right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side.  The curved part

t can now be used as a handle.  Now, using a file, file down the other end 

until it is fairly thin.  You should do this to many hairpins and file them

so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks.  Some locks

are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file!  But most are not.  Ok, now you 

have a lock pick.  Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it.  

You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from.  If you can't tell,

you will just have to try both sides.  When ya find out what side it opens from,

, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-

shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from.  Now, put pressure on the 

handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and 

down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the 

notch allowing us thieves to open it.  Don't say bullshit until you've tried it.

Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' 

gym lockers.  Also, this technique works best on American locks.  I have never

picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but

if anyone does it, let me know how long it took.  Also, the Master lock casing

is very tight so ya can't get the pick in.  So, if you're locking something

valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm

sure there aren't that many that could.  And when I say pick, i don't mean 

lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without

t using force, making a substitute key, etc...  If any of you believe that this

information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761.  

     This concludes my text file on picking combination locks.  My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks".  See ya later.

                                                         The Byte Byter

                                                         ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^





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                                   _  _       _______ 

                                  | \/ |     / _____/ 

                                  |_||_|etal/ /hop 

                                  _________/ / 

                                 /__________/ 

                                 (314)432-0756 

                         24 Hours A Day, 300/1200 Baud 

 

                                  Presents... 

 

                                ==Phrack Inc.== 

                     Volume One, Issue One, Phile #6 of 8 

 

                           How to Pick Master Locks 

By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC 

 

    Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master 

combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has 

made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it 

hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to 

it. 

 

    1st number.  Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on. 

1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination), 

pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it 

turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this 

number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number. 

 

    2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times, 

then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st 

number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it. 

It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on 

it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you 

got the second number. 

 

    3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers, 

then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock 

will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be 

patient, it takes time. 

 

 Have phun... 

 

                            Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM

                                 Ninja NYC/TPM



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                 \\_//

        \\\______(0|0)______///

        ///////// \Y/ \\\\\\\\\

                 // \\

+-----------|The'"3rd"'Reich|----------+

|           """""""""""""""""          |

|   Artificial Intelligence Log 0.04   |

+--------------------------------------+

|  StunGun: Deffensive and Offensive   |

|  Strategies; Mods to kit; 10/3/86    |

+--------------------------------------+



        Need a weapon, but don't want to hassle the registration, or worry

about being caught possesing 1?  Then there is now the StunGun[s/g]...it is

legal in most states.



        Actually, the s/g is based on the TaserGun, that the cops now use to

subdue violent offenders.  The s/g is a modification the the kit u buy.

The kit has 2 prongs that u must actually push into the victum-which is stupid

and risky for 3 reasons:



  1) the attacker may mistake the s/g as a weapon and shooot u dead right there

     when u try to pull it out

  2) the attacker may shoot u as u try to stab him with the electrodes

  3) there may be more than 1 attacker



        The modification disguises it as a shity-old flashLight so he will

think nothing of it as you zap him.  Take an old beat-up medium sized flash

light about 6 inches long...it has to be long enuf 2 house the p_c board,

dart gun mechanism, flashLight battery etc...now, mount  the p_c board into

the back part, leaving nuf room for dart-gun mech...be sure to fan-fold the

electrod wire so when the dart fires, it will lead nice and smooth, and fast.

U might want to put in a powerful BB-gun type air-powered projecter to make

sure the electrodes penetrate a thick leather jacket.  If you are really

mechanicaly oriented, U would best to make it reatractable, so u can zap

1 attacker, stun him for a sec, retract the elect., then zap the others...



Strategies:



1) it would be best if u make the s/g still shine a light-to keep the disgise-

and to avoid suspicion.

2) test the s/g out periodically on ur neighbors dog or cat to make sure the

battery is up to power and the circuit's r working right--> note, if the

animal goes into a convulsing, twitching-muscle lock and dies frothing at the

mouth, its putting out too much wattage...tune it down a bit.  U not wanto

to get into the situation wher u zap some ugly-reeking ultimate bad-ass

psycho and have it give him a nasty shock and start an epileptic-provoking

electrical neuro-storm and he goes crazy on ya!!!!!!  Its not as hard as you

might think to test it out and get some practive on a human subject:

The original developers paid a volunteer to pose as a human guini pig...U 2

can put out an ad in some punk-rocker bar and will be surprised at the # of

low-lifes wanting to get off on this 'new drug' or 'ultimate pain dispensor'

ha, one punk gang requires it as an initiation to get into their gang and

if u ever wanted out, u would have to stand up for 5 full secs of 25K wat!

  NOte: 1 sec at 25K wats will stun ua, and posibly confuse u for a bit, as

ur neurons deal with the surge of activity and u hear the crisp crack of

flesh being burned away adn the bright arc of lightning blind ya...5 secs

is usually enuf to knock u unconscious for 30-45 mins.



3) now that u r a certified s/g operator, here are some off/deff strategies for

various situations u may find urself in some fine day...



case A: ur strolling down the street one fine day in may, on the south side

of Chicago, at 3am, don't ask y, ur lost or want to do some s/g practice...

when a dark NEGRO pops down from an overhead fireEscape and kindly says:

'GOOD EVENING, WHITE HONKY-S.O.B-MOTHERFUCKINGCOCKSUCK-A, may ah  borra

100 doll-as???...i will surely pay u back on tuesdday'...now, the best way

to handle this fuckUp is to hand over ur fake wallot with fake-counterFit

bills and fake ID int it...(note: incase he does get away, u not want him to

l8r be caught with ur drivers liscense etc, cuz cases have been known where

some dumbFuck temp. secretary has mistakenly given u his long criminal

record-which could take months and major hassles to fix...)  Always keep ur

real wallot inside the inseams in ur jacket or pants, or inside pockets.

---> do NOT attempt to talk ur way into any kinda deal with by offering

phreak codz etc, as these inner-city scums usually r 9th grade dropouts

whoes volcalbulary consists of < 100 words and will not understand or

believe u!  Now, in tis case, u would not pull out ur s/g, rather, wait

til he is running away THEN zap him!!!  also note that these punks may

have a gun on ya, but usually r NOT loaded, cuz they don't want the

hassles of that either...but it IS loaded, the s/g will cause him to convulse

and may make him pull the trigger, so its best to zap him in the back.



case b: ur driving along at a nice clip along a highWay with ur rader jammer

 when a gang of 'mad max' types chucks a rock thru ur windsheild forcing

u to jam on the brakes and stop...now, if there are about 3-4 of em, just

get out ur s/g and be ready to zap the leader, u no, the big, ugly one...

this will cause the other punks to scatter like flies.  If there are more,

and u have the retractable s/g, zap one, retract, zap the others til u have

them undercontrol...BUT, if they look like they have guns or bombs, HIT

THE GAS AND GET THE FUCK OUTTA THERE FAST!!!

Variations on case a: if u are driving an 18 weeler thru the inner city and

got stopped at a light, and u see some 'saba-haba-howba-duba' nigger standing

on the corner with a pair of boltCutters lookin at ya, there are 2 things u

can do here: u no that in 15 secs they have the bac doors open and are D/Ling

crates...1) lay on the airHorn and run the red...2) reverse and crush em

against the car behind, then floor it and run the red...if u don't wanto

do these optons, then booby-trap the bac doors to zap'em...



case c: u gots a burgler breaking in...if he is any good and sees ur array

of strobing LEDs and thinks he can get by, rig up a motion detector to the

s/g and zap him upon entry...u would then have ur sys autoScan #s til it finds

help and plays a digitized voice of the emergency.



Things to do: say u need bux fast, but don't wanta risk a holdup? well then,

merely zap the 7-11 attendant, what could be easier??  or u may even build

a remote controled model helicopter with a zaper on it to hold up a bank...

they already have ultra small cameras that use CCDs, or Charged Coupled

Devices that can see in the dark etc...all crontroled on a microwave freq,

what can they do besides shoot it down or try to jam the freq?  ...well,

i think u can come up with some innovative ideas on ur own...atom...A_I



oh, for info on the kit, see the Sep '86 issue of Radio Electronics mag.

the kit is about $40...there is also some good info bout communications, from

DC to microwave, and other shit...check it out.

ave, and other shit...check it out.



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----------------------------------------

            PYROTECHNICAL

               DELIGHTS



----------------------------------------

              WRITTEN BY

             RAGNER ROCKER



----------------------------------------

     MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINST TEACHERS,  PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL OF    HATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE    THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESE FOLLOWING     EXPERIMENTS:



     (1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS  TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOU ALREADY KNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURE CALLED  NAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE      SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS, FLAMETHROWERS, ETC. NOW YOU CA

N ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS   MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUEL LINE!!!!



     (2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE- WHEN   THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OIL ON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO   OOZE FORTH FROM THE BACK OF THAT CAR.   WHO KNOWS MAYBE

 HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED  OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!!



     (3) LIGHT BULB BOMB- YOU CAN       REPLACE A LIGHT BULB WITH A BOMB THAT   YOU KNOW THAT PERSON WILL USE. A LIGHT BULB CAN BE MADE BY (A) GETTING A TORCH( SUCH AS A PROPANE TORCH VIA K-MART) (B) TAKING A LIGHT BULB AND APPLYING THE    TORCH TO WHERE 

THE BASE OF THE BULB(THE PART YOU SCREW IN) AND THE ACTUAL BULB  MEET. (C) AFTER A LITTLE WHILE THE GLASS WILL BECOME SOFT ALLOWING YOU TO       CAREFULLY REMOVE THE BASE FROM THE BULB ITSELF(BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE     FILAMENT) (D) NOW FILL THE BUL

B WITH    NAPLAM(GAS/DISHSOAP) (E) NOW TAKE SUPER-GLUE AND APPLY IT TO THE GLASS WHERE THE BASE AND GLASS MEET(ALONG THE RIM) (F) NOW INSERT THE BASE INTO THE BULB CAREFULLY. (G) ALLOW TO DRY AND YOU GOT YOURSELF A BOMB (H) NOW REPLACE IN A FIXTURE YOUR E

NEMY IS TO USE THE REGULAR LIGHT BULB WITH THE ONE YOU MADE. MAKE SURE THE LAMP/DESK LIGHT IS OFF!!! NOW WHEN YOUR ENEMY TURNS ON THE LIGHT, HE/SHE IS IN FOR A SUPRISE. BUT BE FOREWARNED THIS WILL MOST LIKELY KILL OR SERIOUSLY INJURE THIS PERSON. FOR A GO

OD TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE A LIGHT BULB BOMB RENT THE MOVIE THE SOLDIER WITH SCOTT GLENN. THERE IS AVERY DETALIED SCENE DESCRIBING HOW TO MAKE IT.



    (4) SIMPLE SMOKE/STINK BOMB- YOU CAN PURCHAASE SULPHUR AT A DRUGSTORE UNDER THE NAME FLOWERS OF SULPHUR. NOW WHEN   SULPHUR BURNS IT WILL GIVE OFF A VERY   STRONG ODOR AND PLENTY OF SMOKE. NOW ALL YOU NEED IS A FUSE FROM A FIRECRACKER, A TIN CAN, AND 

THE SULPHUR. FILL THE CAN WITH SULPHUR(PACK VERY LIGHTLY), PUT ALUNINUM FOIL OVER THE TOP OF THE CAN, POKE A SMALL HOLE INTO THE FOIL, INSERT THE WICK, AND LIGHT IT AND GET OUT OF THE ROOM IF YOU VALUE YOUR LUNGS. YOU CAN    FIND MANY USES FOR THIS( OR AT

 LEAST I  HOPE SO.



----------------------------------------

THIS CONCLUDES THIS FILE.



----------------------------------------

CALL RIPCO (312)-528-5020

CALL PHANTASIA- (915)-821-1856



----------------------------------------

           MA BELL'S BRAT,                          RAGNER ROCKER



    DEATH TO ALL COMMODORE GEEKS WHO         GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME

--------------------------------------       GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME



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FUN WITH ALARMS

 

 

A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO

USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS.  YOU CAN PURCHASE

THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION.  IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES

FASTER.

 

MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM.  THIS ALARM IS A SMALL

DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS

BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM.  THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY

WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY.

 IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL

OBJECT TO THE KNOB.  THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK

SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP.  ALL SORTS OF FUN AND

GAMES WILL ENSUE.

 

SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A

REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS.  MOST

USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM

ALL FINGERPRINTS.  AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL

FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED.  NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER.

 

IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE

SAME TIME.  MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON.  THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER

AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVER-ONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME.  NEVER TRY TO REMOVE

THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES.

 

ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES,

ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP.  THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT

THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A

SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF.  THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL

IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES.  IF YOU

FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL

OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT

FROM CLOSING.

 

IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND.  IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE

VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE

POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING.  HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES.

 

 

(>



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Copy: 

(>READ> HOW TO MAKE TNT

How to make TNT

 

By  THE SCREAMER

*s*c**re*a***m**e**r*

 

Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene).  This and other very similar types of high explosives ar all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and there

 great stability.  TNT also has the great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles.  Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually 

ingnited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are other methods.

 

Preparation of TNT

 

1. Take two beakers.  In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water.  In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weig

ht ratio rather than volume).

 

2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath.

 

3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.

 

4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C.  The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.

 

5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid.

 

6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker.  Atr this point, the remaining acid solution should be

 drawn off, by using a syringe.

 

7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C.  After this temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.

 

8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>, and is held at this temperature  for another full half hour.  After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem.

 

9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C.  All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowly and gently.

 

10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C., and is held for three hours.

 

11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and held there for a half hour.

 

12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water.

 

13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify.

 

14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets.  Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT.

 

NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such.  DO NOT estimate or use aproximations.  Buy a good centigrade thermometer.

 

The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula.  It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.

 

***s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r*

(>*s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r*



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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

$                                     $

$         SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB         $

$         ---- ----- --- ----         $

$                                     $

$      AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:      $

$                                     $

$      THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND      $

$           BY KURT SAXON             $

$                                     $

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

 

   THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A

SOFT DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER

EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS

THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW.

 

   AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR

GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR

WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE

TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY.

 

   IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE

ELSE'S SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM

YOUR BOMB HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST!

 

 

               !!

               !!

               !! <-CHEMICAL INGITER

           ---------

           !  !1!  !

           ! ===== !

           !*!   !"!

           ! !   ! !

           ! !   ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER

           ! !   !%!

           ! ====  !

           !       !

           !   #   !

           ! ---   !

           !  !    ! <- NUTS & BOLTS

           !  /    !

           !       !

           ---------

 



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*******************************************************************************

*                                                                             *

*             El Pirata's Guild On How To Make A Chemical Fire Bottle         *

*                     Written for:  Toxic Oyster Guild                        *

*                                                                             *

*      Formatted for 80 columns         05/12/85                              *

*                                                                             *

*******************************************************************************



Materials Required:

==================



              Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid)

              Gasoline

              Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store)

              Sugar

              Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size)

              Small bottle or jar w/lid

              Rag or absorbent paper (newspaper, paper towels, etc.)

              String or rubber bands



Procedure:

=========



1)  Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid

    is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off.

    Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass.



CAUTION:  Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing.  If any is

          spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water.  Fumes are also

          dangerous and should not be inhaled.



2)  Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temerature.



3)  Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately

    2/3 full.



4)  Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is

    filled to within 1' to 2' from top.  Place the stopper on the bottle.



5)  Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.



CAUTION:  If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle

          during use.



6)  Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside

    of the bottle.  Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands.



7)  Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of

    sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water.



8)  Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly.

    The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid.  If

    there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using.



CAUTION:  Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.



How To Use:

==========



1)  Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper

    around the large bottle.  Bottle can be used wet or after solution has

    dried.  However, when dry, the sugar - Potassium chlorate mixture is very

    sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly.



2)  Throw or launch the bottle.  When the bottle breaks against a hard surface

    (target) the fuel will ignite.



Conclusion:

==========



    This weapon proves to be very useful in torching Assholes and/or their

    possessions.  Use your imagination.





                          -=> <El Pirata'> <=-

                        (c) 1985 TOG ENTERPRISES







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[>------------------------------------<]

[>                                    <]                         

[>                                    <]

[>       [>                   <]      <]   

[>       [+%--The 3rd Reich--%+]      <]                     

[>       [>                   <]      <]                                   

[>              Presents              <]

[>                                    <]

[>       Change Machine Fraud !!      <]

[>                                    <]

[>------------------------------------<]

[>                                    <]

[>              Written               <]

[>                 by                 <]

[>                                    <]

[>           The Prisoner ///         <]

[>           ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~         <]

[>------------------------------------<]



 Okay...There are certain ways to take 

money out of a change machine...

 

1) You can blow the fucker up..

2) You can use this quick and easy method





  Heres what ya do....



 I.

   There are certain types of money

changing machines...The one YOU need

is the kind where ya put yer bill in

the tray <lengthwise> ,push the tray

in to get yer change...



 II.

   Once you got the right machine,get

a $5 or a $1 ,it helps if the bill is

WRINKLED...Then tear a notch in the 

bill on the lower left side of the 

bill.Cut the notch about 3.5 cm. from

the lower left hand corner...



III.

    Now, go to the machine..put the 

bill in the tray and slide it in...

Now what will happen is the machine

will have so far read the bill right

and it will spit out yer change..

Then when it reads the notch, it 

will think the bill is fucked up and 

reject it  and like you will have the 

change  and yer bill...



 For this to werk right you must have

done this right..it does take practice

 but once you can do this your local

Money Changer will be yer bank...



 oh yeah one more thing..dont tell

or upload this file to to many places

otherwise every fuckin person in the 

nation will be doin this  and this 

file would be no use....  

  whatever...



     written by...    

        



      The Prisoner ///

      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



            of  



   [+%--The 3rd Reich--+%]



           from



    The Sanctuary Elite



   [--->503-684-0548<---]                                             

      







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%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

%                                                                             % %                   <> How to make an FM wireless BUG <>                      %

%                                                                             %

%                         By: <-> Johnney Rotten <->                          %

%                                                                             %

%         <> A Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society presentation <>        %

%                                                                             %

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%





What it is

----------



This handy little device can be used for two purposes. The first is a FM bug,

which transmits on the FM frequency, thus making it extremely easy to pick up.

The second is a FM station blocker (which can be really fun if you are pissed

at someone who just happens to be listening to the radio. In this case, you 

can do 1 (or both) of these: A) announce through the bug (on their station)

that Fred (whoever is listening) has just won 1 years supply of orthopedic

shoe pads, or B) disconnect the mike, and let it fry the station.) In this

file, I will make some incredibly lame schematics, which any fool can follow,

(lets see you make good schematics with Apple Writer), and tell you all the

junk you need (duh..) Ok, if you have no electronics background at all, go

ahead and try it anyways (hell, it's not my money your wasting on parts)

   



Required Parts

--------------



(1) 2n3904 transistor............................[Q1]

(1) 10k resistor (+-5%)..........................[R1]

(1) 4.7k resistor (+-5%).........................[R2]

(1) 1k resistor (+-5%)...........................[R3]

(1) .001 uf capacitor............................[C1]

(1) 5 to 80 pf variable capacitor................[C2]

(1) 10 pf capacitor..............................[C3]

(2) .5 uh coils..................................[L1,L2]

(1) SpSt slide switch............................[S1]

(1) 9 volt battery clip..........................[B1]

(1) Antenna or antenna wire (3 in. or more)......[A1]

(1) microphone (like one out of a phone).........[M1]





Schematics

----------





          --------------*-------------*-------------*-------------*

          |             |             |             |             |

          |             |             |             |             |   +A1

          |             |             |             |             L1  |

          S1            R1            |             C2            |   |

          |             |             |             |             *----

          |             |             |             |             |

          +             |             |             |             L2

          B1            |             |             |             | 

          -             |             C1            |             |

          |             |             |             |             |

          |             *-------------*------Q1/-----*------------*

          |             |                      \                  |

  --------*             |                       \_________________C3

mike                    |                                         |

  --------*             |                                         |

          |             R2                                        R3

          |             |                                         |

          |             |                                         |

          ---------------------------------------------------------





How to operate

--------------



1. Turn on (duh..)



2. Turn the variable capacitor until you are on the station that you want to 

 use (preferably towards either end, so if they turn on their radio, they

don't get a bunch of audio feedback when they hit your station)



3. This bug does not have a long range (50 ft max), but if you use a large 

 antenna on your stereo (like the rooftop kind) the range is greatly increased

. I prefer to use a AM/FM walkman, so I can get close to the bug, and tape what

I want.

 



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(C) January 1, 1986 Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society |Thanks: Dr. Deth

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

Call these cool boards:



Castle Asgard.........[10 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 788-3594

Remote Hideout........[20 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 709-1079

Treasure Island.......[2 drv AE/PW: RUSH].......(414) 547-2805

------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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 ///\/\/\/\/\/\/\\\

        <<< Pyro Book ][ >>>

         \\\/\/\/\/\/\/\///

 

          by ->Capt Hack<-

         and ->Grey Wolf<-

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Well, I never thought I would be doing

this, but here it is: ->BOOK II<-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

 

TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE

--------------------------

 

1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium

   permanganate in a tin can.

 

2) add glycerine

 

3) wait 3-4 min.

 

4) get the hell out.. the stuff will

   smoke, then burst into flame..

 

 

** potasium permanganate stains like

   iodine but worse [it's purple]

 

** the reaction will spatter a bit

   ->it can be messy...

 

** it doesn't matter if the amounts

   are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]

 

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT)

---------------

 

silver iodide --> aluminum iodide

 + aluminum        + silver

 

              ..or..

 

 

AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI

 

ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic --

it will absorb water [it will even

absorb water out of the air!]

 

SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum --

the resulting aluminum iodide will

>disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from

the air!

The final result is aluminum with a

wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlI

solution]

 

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

THERMITE

--------

 

This stuff can burn *anything*. [except

Tungsten].. It's great for burning

open a fortress fone [a pay phone, for

those who do not know]

 

Here is the step-by-step on how to make

it.

 

 

1) First you need rust. The best way

   to make alot of it is....

 

      a) get an electric train trans-

         former

      b) attach a common nail to the

         PLUS (+) end of the trans-

         former

      c) get a glass jar

      d) fill it with water

      e) put salt [regular table salt

         is fine] into the water

      f) put the other end (-) into

         water with the nail [leave the

         transformer out, of course]

      g) turn on the transformer

      h) let the contraption run over-

         night

      i) seperate out all the red shit

         [that's the rust] with a

         filter or a spoon.

      j) let the stuff dry [like on

         a paper towel]

      k) that's it! you have rust!

 

2) Get some aluminum filings from the

   hardware store [or shave your own

   from a bar with less that 94% pure

   aluminum, called duralumin]

 

3) Now, just mix:

 

           8 grams rust

     --------------------------

      3 grams aluminum filings

 

4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite

   it...

 

5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon.

   To get it, you can:

 

       a) steal it from the chemistry

          lab at school

       b) buy it at the hardware store

       c) buy it from a chemical

          supply house.

 

6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon

   into the Thermite at a fuse.

 

7) Then light it with a blowtorch.

   [It won't get hot enough to ignite

   the Thermite, though]

 

8) last step: get the hell back.

   [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!]

 

 

** my thanx to the person who wrote

   the file "Thermite".. whoever the

   hell you are.....................

   [put your name in if you ever get

   this]

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

(=> If I ever get around to it, Pyro

    book III will live!!

 

(=> If not..

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

 I would like to thank Captain Hack

 for his assistance in generating

 some of this material.

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

 

  )> Stay Around <(

 

               -=[ Grey ]=-

               -=[ Wolf ]=-

 

           /^\ The Time Lords /^\

           \^/ ~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~ \^/

 

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

 

--END OF FILE--

-END OF FILE--



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                                ==Phrack Inc.==

                     Volume One, Issue Two, Phile #3 of 9



                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

                    @@@@       --] Man-Tooth [--       @@@@

                    @@@@          presents...          @@@@

                    @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@

                    @@@@      -- HOMEMADE GUNS --      @@@@

                    @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@

                    @@@@             from              @@@@

                    @@@@  "The Poor Man's James Bond"  @@@@

                    @@@@         by Kurt Saxon         @@@@

                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::





          PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS

          ------------------



              Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks.  Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehen

sion.



              They can be used many times but with some, a length of           dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.



              There are many variations but the illustration shows the           basic design.



              First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for           the barrel to rest in.  The barrel is then taped securely to           the stock with a good, strong tape.



              The trigger is made from galvanized tin.  A slot is           punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is           wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and           nailed to the stock on both sides.



              The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas           or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.



              The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a           hole bored through it, is screwed on.  Then the trigger is

          slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and           rest on the primer.



              To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand           and held back with the thumb of the right hand.  The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires.



              Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in           any hardware store.  All caliber bullets, from the .22 to           the .45 are used in such guns.



              Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested           within each other.  For instance, a .22 shell will fit           snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line.           Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the



          pressure of the firing.  So the length of gas line is spread           with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe.  This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap.



              Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge,           even a rifle shell.  The first size of pipe for a rifle           shell accomodates the bullet.  The second accomodates its           wider powder chamber.



              A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel           pipe.  If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel           should be at least eighteen inches long.



              Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol.           It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt.  Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the fr

ont of the trigger.  The rubber band is put over one nail and  brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.



              In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it           before firing it by hand.  This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage.  Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off s

everal yards.  The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by           hand.



              You should not attempt to register such a gun.                          Pipe Cap

                             /

                            /   Bullet     Tape       Pipe

                           /        /      /   \        /

                           v       /      /     \      /

                         !----!   /       v     v      v

               Nail--\  /   /-!---v-----!---!-!---!---------

                      v ---  - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !

                    //---->    ![][]\   !   ! !   !        !

                   ^  ! !--\   ![][]/   !   ! !   !        !

              Wire/   ! !   \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !

          Trigger---> ! ! !---!         !   ! !   !     ::::

                     /! !      /--------!---!-!---!--::::--!

                    / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\

                   !  !-!   /                             \-- Rubber

                   /       /                                    band

                   !       !

                   !      /

                   !      !

                   !      !

                   !      !

                   !------!







                                  Z I P   G U N





                                                       / <---Nail

                                                   !-!/

           /------------------\              /-----!o!-----\

          ! O        O       O !            ! ------------- !

           \--------! !-------/             !!             !!

                    !-!                     !!             !!

                                            !!             !!

                                            !!             !!

          Trigger before bending       /--> !!             !! <--\

                                     Place  !!             !!   Nail

                                     nail                       hole

                                     here



                                                  Trigger



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uAjMR[xRipco G-Phile Menu #3  [ANARCHY]       (80 column)                4/9/89

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

 G#             TITLE                  UPLOADED            LENGTH

               OF PHILE                   BY               BYTES

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

note:for xmodem transfer of file, use X##. for ascii dump, use ## only.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------



(250) How to buy Liquor                Terminal Raider     7567

(249) The Terrorists Handbook          Big Bop Phreak      188032

(248) Fun with Misc People             Dispater!           3907

(247) Fun with Automobiles             Dispater!           4553

(246) Terrorists Guide to Explosives   Big Bop Phreak      19580

(245) 5 Misc Files                     Mastermind          13547

(244) Electronic Delay Detonator       Paul Pekar          6334

(243) Computer Heisting                L.E. Pirate         4631

(242) Trashing Revenge                 Fatal Error         10540

(241) Crashing Library Computers       L.E. Pirate         4502

(240) Let's Destroy Burlington         Night Crawler       8054

(239) Coin Fraud                       The Thrasher        2419

(238) Little fun for Chem Class        The Crusher         3448

(237) How to Make Grenades             L.E. Pirate         3609

(236) How to Make a Stun Gun           L.E. Pirate         3510

(235) Pen Bomb                         L.E. Pirate         3952

(234) The Highway Scam                 L.E. Pirate         3241

(233) Balloon Bomb                     L.E. Pirate         3805

(232) How to Make Slime                L.E. Pirate         3328

(231) Remote TV Operations             L.E. Pirate         6862

(230) How to Make Timers               L.E. Pirate         4159

(229) Getting High off Gatorade        Satans Son          2181

(228) Nightime Revenge                 Satans Son          11696

(227) A Powerful Pipebomb              Mastermind          1994

(226) A Good Cherry Bomb               Mastermind          1906

(225) How to Make Good Money           Mastermind          3474

(224) Fun with Small Animals           Swamp Rat           6494

(223) Mail Fraud                       Swamp Rat           4758

(222) Traffic Light Fun                Swamp Rat           3649

(221) Phone Sex Scam                   Swamp Rat           6310

(220) EZ Destruction                   Swamp Rat           4891

(219) How to Card while Living at Home Swamp Rat           6221

(218) Car Sabotage                     Video Vindicator    6353

(217) Better Homes and Trashing        Ares the God        5659

(216) Step by Step Carding             Ares the God        6779

(215) Screwing Public Utilities        Billy Heif          4578

(214) Making M-80's for Profit         Jeff Miller         4219

(213) Money from Payphones             Charles Manson      3300

(212) Self Igniting Mixtures           Number Six          32041

(211) Contact Explosives               Number Six          24684

(210) Mail Fraud                       Josh Levinson       3542

(209) Slow Death                       Swamp Rat           3072

(208) 20 Way to Disrupt Assemblies     Swamp Rat           4864

(207) Gerbil Feed Bomb                 Swamp Rat           3456

(206) Death the Sick Way               Dr. Leppard         4872

(205) Auto Tailing                     The Falcon          7527

(204) Scanning                         The Falcon          10201

(203) Guerrilla War Manual I           The Falcon          13487

(202) Fatal Error's Notes on Trashing  Fatal Error         5329

(201) Pyro Phun III                    Hitch Hacker        11106

(200) Robbing Houses #2                Video Vindicator    7570

(199) Robbing Houses #1                Video Vindicator    9893

(198) BIC Balistics                    Video Vindicator    4952

(197) Unconventional Warfare #2        Video Vindicator    19966

(196) Unconventional Warfare #1        Video Vindicator    13061

(195) Where to get Weapons             Video Vindicator    5376

(194) Carding, My Way                  Video Vindicator    9666 

(193) Climbing Tutorial #1             Number Six          2087

(192) Shuriken                         Number Six          2999

(191) Smoke Screen #1                  Number Six          3755

(190) Making Marijuana Beer            Mark Manning        11012

(189) Making M-80's                    Mark Manning        4162

(188) Pranks                           Philip Vaughan      17466

(187) Tear Gas                         Philip Vaughan      4337

(186) Soviet Intellegence              Marvin Lanes        8562

(185) Destruction via Electronics      Marvin Lanes        5296

(184) Giant Jumping Jacks              Marvin Lanes        1471

(183) How to be a Peeping Tom          Brutus Macabbee     3582

(182) Shopping Malls                   The Skank           7424

(181) Adventures in Fraud Vol.1        Sir Collegiate      8973

(180) Check Fraud                      Sir Collegiate      3875

(179) How to get Anything on Anyone    Sir Collegiate      2029

(178) Kill Thy Neighbor                Hotblack Desiato    5068

(177) Make Chlorine Gas                Hotblack Desiato    1142

(176) Poison #1                        Calico Jack         6676

(175) Cable Theft The Neighborly Way   Spank Y             4424

(174) Kmart & Target Fun               Kracking Crue       9689

(173) Legal Highs                      Jim Smith           7140

(172) Canning                          Lurker Above        5121

(171) Pipe Bombs                       Lurker Above        2179

(170) Phone Sex                        The Skank           5522

(169) Milkcrate Bomb                   XTX-101 0           1556

(168) How to Make LSD                  Power Assist        1713

(167) Atomic Bomb Info pts. I,II,III   Night Hawk          41703

(166) Making a Still                   Chris Allan         4908

(165) Guide to Radar & State Troopers  Exilic Xyth         15659

(164) Anarchy Handbook II              Hammerhead.         25141

(163) A Trashing Telex Story           Super Hacker        4020

(162) How to Get Lost                  Chris Masters       2430

(161) Picking Combination Locks        * Piglet *          4770

(160) Bar Rockets                      Death Ant           3930

(159) Projects for Bored Anarchists    Lurker Above        4446

(158) Phlamethrower Phun               Lurker Above        2051

(157) Breaking Into a House            The Haj             2382

(156) Pipe Bomb                        Ice Man             2566

(155) Mischief Night                   High Octain         5125

(154) Complete Guide to Anarchy        Snake Eyes          9561

(153) Fun With Bees                   Joe Shmoe the Eskimo 12414

(152) Mercury Battery Bomb             Mike Stepansky      1008

(151) Fun with Billboards              Max Headroom        6871

(150) Watermelon Bomb                  Flying Hermit       4647

(149) How to Blow up a Car             Flying Hermit       5831

(148) Quick Postal Tricks              The Enforcer        3319

(147) Nightime Fun                     The Occultist       7737

(146) Making a BB Gun                  The Sentinel        3551

(145) Getting Others to Commit Suicide Electronic Rebel    10226

(144) Civilian Warfare & Sabotage      Angus Young         22272

(143) Ring Master Gun I                Ralph Kramden       9088

(142) Explosive Pen                    Ralph Kramden       3200

(141) H-Bomb Plans                     Cheshire Cat        23584

(140) Astrolite Explosives             Electronic Rebel    5651

(139) Picking MasterLocks              Electronic Rebel    2100

(138) Homemade Guns                    Electronic Rebel    6543

(137) How to Counterfeit               Electronic Rebel    5821

(136) School Lockers                   Electronic Rebel    7515

(135) Making RDX                       Electronic Rebel    5207

(134) Anarchy In the Snow              Electronic Rebel    5419

(133) Expedient Grenades               Electronic Rebel    4008

(132) Revenge                          Electronic Rebel    4671

(131) How to Shoplift pt.2             Electronic Rebel    5704

(130) Mail/Telephone Fraud             Electronic Rebel    17740

(129) Fun With Mailboxes               Electronic Rebel    7259

(128) Soda Bombs                       Electronic Rebel    1951

(127) Grandmas Recipe for Black Powder El Pirata'          2536

(126) Firebomb                         El Pirata'          3158

(125) Job Manual                       The Culprit         4129

(124) Making an FM Monitor             Command Sozo        2304

(123) Arts of Lockpicking              * Amadeus *         10240

(122) Stungun Mods & Strategies        Artif. Intelligence 6912

(121) Making AFPO & NI3                Power Assist        2270

(120) Pyrotechnical Delights           Ragner Rocker       3200

(119) Bell Trashing                    The Producer        3840

(118) Signing pts. 1,2,3,4             Lord Tiqvah         14080

(117) 10 Commandments of Anarchy       Lord Tiqvah         4352

(116) Anarchist Phone Pranks IV        * Amadeus *         6400

(115) Anarchist Phone Pranks III       * Amadeus *         12032

(114) Anarchist Phone Pranks II        * Amadeus *         5888

(113) Anarchist Phone Pranks I         Otay Okay           11520

(112) Pranks                           Lord Tiqvah         3712

(111) Bug Detector/Car Tracker         Lord Tiqvah         14990

(110) Ammonium Nitrate                 * Amadeus *         6912

(109) Carding II                       Lord Arioch         13568

(108) Carding I                        Lord Arioch         4864

(107) More on Trashing                 Elric of Imrryr     6917

(106) Change Machine Fraud             The Prisoner ///    2560

(105) Commando (file 2)                Ralph Jones         4352

(104) Commando (file 1)                Ralph Jones         5888

(103) Meter Smashing                   The Black Death     5173

(102) Sugar Rocket Improvements        Honest John         6400

(101) Making A Sugar Rocket            Honest John         10240

(100) How to Make a Rifle Microphone   Disk Phantom        4352

(99) Picking Combination Locks         Dos Ranger          4864

(98) American Dynamite                 * Amadeus *         2304

(97) Parent Pranks                     Dos Ranger

(96) Making a FM bug                   Dos Ranger

(95) Murder                            Dos Ranger

(94) Opening P.O. Boxes                Disk Phantom

(93) Pyro Book II                      Disk Phantom

(92) Zip Guns                          Shadow Hawk I

(91) Making Crystal                    Shadow Hawk I

(90) Guide to Fed Agencies             Disk Phantom

(89) More Free Electricity             Shadow Hawk I

(88) Making Mercury Fulminate          Jesse Hiy

(87) Free Electricity                  Shadow Hawk I

(86) Anarchy Files III                 Night Crawler

(85) Quicky Bomb                       Shadow Hawk I

(84) Cracking the UPC                  Countlegger I

(83) Toilet Bomb                       Angus Young

(82) Radar Jamming                     Red Beard

(81) Pipe Bomb                         Bad Dogg

(80) Phlasher Phinding                 Inspector Gadget

(79) False ID                          Inspector Gadget

(78) Coin Fraud                        Silver Samurai

(77) Anarchy Done Right                Steve Beard

(76) CC'ing Made Easy                  Insepctor Gadget

(75) M80-M100's                        Ripco II/Ae

(74) Carding III                       Silver Samurai

(73) Mail Fraud                        Ripco II/Ae

(72) Anarchy Manual 3                  Night Crawler

(71) Pissing People Off II             Dr. Nitemare

(70) Pissing People Off I              Dr. Nitemare

(69) Anarchy Manual 2                  Night Crawler

(68) Anarchy Manual 1                  Night Crawler

(67) Picking Master Locks              Judge Fear

(66) Having fun at K-Mart              Masked Squirrel

(65) Laughing Gas                      Jong Lee

(64) Stinkums                          Jong Lee

(63) Smoke Screens for Cars            Sir Bernlad

(62) Fun with Alarms                   Mr. Processor

(61) Car Trashing                      Ripco Ae 831-5427

(60) Procurement Directory             Street Hawk

(59) 4 Misc. Files                     Capt'n Crunch

(58) Dr.Mads Chem Class                Capt'n Crunch

(57) Explosives                        Capt Crunch

(56) Pranks                            Capt Crunch

(55) War Tactics                       Dos Ranger

(54) 20 ways to Sabotage School        Cosmic Charlie

(53) Special Warfare Manual            Dos Ranger

(52) Steel Casings                     Thunder God

(51) About LSD                         Thunder God

(50) Drugs in your Own Home            Thunder God

(49) Smoke pipe bomb                   Stee One

(48) Poorman's James Bomb              Dave Letterman

(47) Milkmans Friend Bomb              Dave Letterman

(46) Anarchy Manual                    Metal Comm. Inc.

(45) Raising Hell                      Metal Comm. Inc.

(44) Full Auto                         Metal Comm. Inc.

(43) Kitchen Chemistry 1-4             Stee One

(42) Terror in your Neighborhood       Stee One

(41) Improvised Munitions              Magnetic Medium

(40) Making & Using Nitro              Sir Bernlad

(39) AT&T Forgery                      Silent Rebel

(38) Revenge                           Silent Rebel

(37) Explosive Pens                    Silent Rebel

(36) Making Pocket Rockets             Stee One

(35) Misc. Nasties                     Stee One

(34) Improved Explosives               Ripco II/Ae

(33) Nitro                             Ripco II/Ae

(32) Explosives                        Stee One

(31) Home Defense 101 pt.1             Dave Letterman

(30) Home Defense 101 pt.2             Dave Letterman

(29) Postal Fraud                      Prince of Darkness

(28) Nitroglycerin                     Stee One

(27) Dynamite/Household Chems.         Stee One

(26) Trip Wires                        somewhere

(25) Tennis Ball Bomb                  somewhere

(24) Tear Gas                          somewhere

(23) Guide to Explosives               somewhere

(22) Chlorox-Drano                     somewhere

(21) Chlorine Gas Bomb                 somewhere

(20) Chemistry Class                   somewhere

(19) Chemist's Corner                  somewhere

(18) Breaking Into Houses              somewhere

(17) Book of the Unlawfuls             somewhere

(16) Blowing Up a Car                  somewhere

(15) Knock Out Drops                   The Sting

(14) T.N.T.                            The Sting

(13) Napalm Grenade                    The Sting

(12) Lockpicking                       unknown             3800

(11) Explosives                        SID VICIOUS         2400

(10) Revenge                           SILENT REBEL        5600

(9)  Supplies                          MACK BOLAN          4300

(8)  M.A.I.M Volume I                  RICK ROGERS         8100

(7)  Soft Drink Can Bomb               THE MYSTIC          2000

(6)  Electronic Terrorism              THE MYSTIC          5100

(5)  Letter Bombs                      THE MYSTIC          3600

(4)  Making Thermite                   THE MYSTIC          2500

(3)  Light Bulb Bomb                   SHADOW HAWK I       2000

(2)  Explosives                        SHADOW HAWK I       20000

(1)  Paranoia(bombs & gas lines)       THE APPRENTICE      2300



     



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Hey, check out the facts,let's see

what they do for your PARANOIA:

 

 Natural gas flows through millions of

miles of piplines in the U.S. One

charge will blow up a gas pipeline  

along miles of its length since the

air let into the pipeline by the exp-

losion will cause secondary explosions.

Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas

which accounts for more than one-third

of the nation's total energy supply.

Only 4 pipelines connects the gas      

fields in the South and Southwest to

New York and Los Angeles. Maps of the

lines can be obtanied from the Dept-

ment ofEnergy and by studying industry

journals.

 

 

 Oil pipelines can be destroyed by

penetrating the central pipeline cont-

rol system. In one Southern city, which

controls oil movement in several states. 

  Yikes! And contrary to the argument

advanced by some self-styled special-

ists and the news media that few poss-

ess the technological expertise to use

weapons of mass destruction, it is 

much much easier than you think.

  

  There's a book giving location,pub-

lished in the New York Times,Feb 1979,

two large map pinpointing every power

station and transmission line from

Washington to the Canadian border.

Blowing up some of these stations and

lines would wipe out the electrical

supply of the East Coast.

 

  For another example, the a Book

called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, by

some guy named, Charles Clark. 

Title of the book is :

  Technological Terrorism $10.00

 

Clark shows how they canb  be readily

obtained by theft from inefficently

guarded nuclear plants and armories.

 Both of the above mentioned books

are readily available to anyone with

the buck, how sad,huh...shit!

 

 Technological Terrorism is a nightmare

scenario,and a serious warning to every

one of us.

 

 That really screws up the old head.

 





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EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE

RESEARCHER





INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text

books on chemistry and explosives is

the attitude with which they are

written. They don't say, "Now I know

youuwould like to blow holy hell out of

something just for the fun of it so

here is how to whip up something in 

your kitchen to do it". They tell you

how Dupont does it or how the anchient

Chineese did it but not how you can do

it with the resourses and materials

available to you. Even army manuals on

field expedient explosives are almost

useless because they are just outlines

written with the understanding that an

instructor is going to fill in the

blanks. It is a fun game to search out

the materials that can be put together

to make something go "boom". You can

find what you need in grocery stores,

hardware stores, and farm supplies. An

interesting point to remember is that

it is much easier to make a big e

xplosion than a small one. It is very

difficult for a home experimenter to

make a firecracker, but a bomb capable

of blowing the walls out of a building

is easy. The king of explosives for the

do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is

easy to make and when properly confined

is capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM

ootable powder used for

spraying. It is cheap and works well.

Some drug stores sell sulfur under the

name Flowers of Sulfur. If you use

Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form

of prills (little round beads). Bake it

in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15

minutes to drive out the moisture. Then

dump a cup or two into a blender and

switch it on. It will do a beautiful

job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag

of charcoal briquettes at a grocery

store. Put a few briquettes in a rag

and pound with hammer. Dump the result

into the blender, grind, then strain

through a tea strainer. Mix by volume:

6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2

parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur.

This mixture will burn if ignited and

will explode if ignited while tightly

confined. It can be greatly improved,

however, by processing it as follows:

Moisten with water until it will stick

together when pinched between thumb and

finger. Press it into a disposable

aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated

oven at 250 degrees for about 30

minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into

as fine a powder as possible. A mortar

and pestle is best. If you use a

blender at this point, there is a

danger of explosion. It is not very

sensative to friction or impact, but is

very sensative to sparks. If you

followed these directions, you should

have a fine slate-grey powder.



When baking black powder, remember to

preheat the oven. Place your pie pan

approximately in the center of the

oven. Do not set it on the bottom of

the oven. These warnings are to prevent

hot spots that could ignite the powder

causing a fire or explosion. Something

went wrong once when my father-in-law

was doing this and it blew the door

right off the oven. His training in

military demolitions included field

expedient explosives. The point is that

things can go wrong even when you know

what you are doing. Protect yourself at

all times. Use common sense. Wear

safety glasses; don't stand in front of

oven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:

Take a flat piece of plastic or metal

(brass or aluminum are easy to work

with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th

inch hole through it. This is your die

for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses

as big as you want, but this is the

right size for the pipe bomb I will be

getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of

black powder add water to make a thin

paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch.

Cut some one foot lengths of cotton

thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread

made from synthetic fibers. Put these

together until you have a thickness

that fills the hole in the die but can

be drawn through very easily. Tie your

bundle of threads together at one end.

Separate the threads and hold the

bundle over the black powder mixture.

Lower the threads with a circular

motion so they start curling onto the

mixture. Press them under with the back

of a teaspoon and continue lowering

them so they coil into the paste. Take

the end you are holding and thread it

through the die. Pull it through

smoothly in one long motion. To dry

your fuse, lay it on a piece of

aluminum foil and bake it in your 250

degree oven or tie it to a grill in the

oven and let it hang down. The fuse

must be baked to make it stiff enough

for the uses it will be put to later.

Air drying will not do the job. If you

used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even

dry completely at room temperatures.

Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2

inch lengths and store in an air tight

container. Handle this fuse carefuly to

avoid breaking it. You can also use a

firecracker fuse if you have any

available. The fuses can usually be

pulled out without breaking. To give

yourself some running time, you will be

extending these fuses (blackmatch or

firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.

HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavy

cotton string about 1/8th inch in

diameter. You can find some at a garden

supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be

sure it's cotton. You can test it by

lighting one end. It sould continue to

burn after the match is removed and

when blown out will have a smoldering

coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a

small container like a small pie pan

and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees.

It will melt into a transparent yellow

liquid. If it starts turning brown, it

is too hot. Coil about a one foot

length of string into it. The melted

sulfur will soak in quickly. When

saturated, pull it out and tie it up to

cool and harden. It can be cut to

desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches

is about right. These wicks will burn

slowly with a blue flame and do not

blow out easily in a moderate wind.

They will not burn through a hole in a

metal pipe, but are great for extending

your other fuse. They will not throw

off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks

which can ignite it along its length

causing unpredictable burning times.

Now you have the basic ingredients to

shake the earth like thunder. In the

next installment or two, I will tell

you how to put it all together to do ju

st that. You will find that you have

baked a very deadly pie. I have twice

been accused of setting off dynamite in

the woods. The explosive power of your

little grey powder may exceed your

expectations, so choose your testing

ground with care.



HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB: Buy a section

of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches

long, threaded on both ends. Buy two

metal caps to fit. These are standard

items in hardware stores. Drill a

1/16th hole in the center of the pipe.

This is easy with a good drill bit.

Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a

metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the

pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with

black powder. Do not pack the powder.

Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe

to make it settle. You want the powder

loose. For maximum explosive effect,

you need dry, fine powder sitting loose

in a very rigid container. Wipe off any

powder that has gotten onto the top or

threads of the pipe. Gently screw on

the second cap. Hand tighten only.

Place a small piece of tape over the

hole and go to your test site. Remove

the tape and insert a two inch piece of

black match fuse or a firecracker fuse

into the hole. Place the bomb behind a

large rock or tree. Using thread or

string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of

sulfured wick to the end of the fuse.

Avoid letting the wick touch any

objects. This might cause it to go out.

Light the wick and head for cover in a

direction that keeps the rock or tree

between you and the bomb at all times.

Get behind cover at least 50 yards

away. You may not expect such a large

explosion from such a small object. Be

extra cautious until You have done this

a time or two and it gets real what you

are dealing with. The pipe will be

blown to pieces which will fly through

the air like bullets. An accident could

seriously wound or kill you. This is

not a big firecracker. It is more like

a hand grenade. The size of the bomb

can be increased by using a larger pipe

and caps. To make a big noise without

blowing up your pipe, cap one end only.

Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of the

threads at the capped end. Put in about

3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder.

Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top

of the powder. Toilet paper or kleenex

is good for this. Pack it tight. Open

up a safety pin and stick it into the

hole. Work it around to loosen up the

powder so a fuse can be inserted. When

this goes off, the recoil will be

tremendous. You will loose your pipe

unless you brace it securely against

something. The pipe can be reloaded and

used again. A fun trick is to mount the

pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can

over the open end and light the fuse.

The can will be blown high into the

air. Campbell's soup cans are great for

this. HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL: This is

easy to make and fun to play with. Mix

equal parts by volume Potassium or So

dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour

a big spoonful of this into a pile.

Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into

it; light; and step back. This is also

a very hot incendiary. A little

imagination will suggest a lot of

experiments for this. ANOTHER ROCKET

FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc

dust and sulfur. Watch out if you

experiment with this. It goes off in a

sudden flash. It is not a powerful

explosive, but is violent stuff even

when not confined because of its fast

burning rate. --- As I continue from

this point some of the ingredients are

going to be harder to get without going

through a chemical supply. I try to

avoid this. I happen to know that B.

Prieser Scientific (local to my area)

has been instructed by the police to

send them the names of anyone buying

chemicals in certain combinations. For

example, if a person were to buy

Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene

(the makings for TNT) in one order the

police would be notified. I will do the

best I can to tell you how to make the

things you need from commonly available

materials, but I don't want to leave

out something really good because you

might have to scrounge for an

ingredient. I am guessing you would

prefer it that way.



HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON

MATCHES: The word "safety" in safety

matches is misleading. The chemical on

the heads of safety matches is a

powerful explosive. It is similar to

black powder but has a lower ignition

temperature (more sensative to heat)

and unlike black powder is easily

detonated by impact. This feature moves

it up into the high explosives class.

To test this, lay a paper safety match

on a hard flat surface and hit the head

sharply with a hammer. What do you

know! It goes bang! To collect a

quantity of this explosive, it is best

to use wooden safety matches. Buy

several cartons. They're cheap. Note

that these should be safety matches,

not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the

head near the bottom with a pair of

wire cutters to break it up; then use

the edges of the cutters to scrape off

the loose material. It gets easy with

practice. You can do this while

watching TV and collect enough for a

bomb without dieing of boredom. Once

you have a good batch of it, you can

load it into a pipe instead of black

powder. Be careful not to get any in

the threads, and wipe off any that gets

on the end of the pipe. Never try to

use this stuff for rocket fuel. A

science teacher was killed that way.

Just for fun while I'm on the subject

of matches, did you know that you can

strike a safety match on a window pane?

Hold a paper match between your thumb

and first finger. With your second

finger, press the head firmly against a

large window. Very quickly, rub the

match down the pane about 2 feet while

maintaining the pressure. The friction

will generate enough heat to light the

match. Another fun trick is the match

rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a

paper match with foil. Set it in the

top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree

angle. Hold a lighted match under the

head until it ignites. If you got it

right, the match will zip up and hit

the ceiling. I just remembered the

match guns I used to make when I was a

kid. These are made from a bicycle

spoke. At one end of the spoke is a

piece that screws off. Take it off and

screw it on backwards. You now have a

piece of stiff wire with a small hollow

tube on one end. Pack the material from

a couple of wooden safety matches into

the tube. Force the stem of a match

into the hole. It sould fit very

tightly. Hold a lighted match under the

tube until it gets hot enough to ignite

the powder. It goes off with a bang.

--- For later projects, like a chemical

time delay fuse, you will need some

concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I

better tell you how to make it. HOW TO

MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM

BATTERY ACID: Go to an auto supply

store and ask for "a small battery

acid". This should only cost a few

dollars (about 4 dollars). What you

will get is about a gallon of dilute

sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into

a heat resistant glass container. The

glass pitchers used for making coffee

are perfect. Do not use a metal

container. Use an extension cord to set

up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid

until white fumes appear. As soon as

you see the white fumes, turn off the

hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour

the now concentrated acid into a glass

container. The container must have a

glass stopper or plastic cap -- no

metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize,

the acid will quickly absorb moisture

from the air and become diluted. Want

to know how to make a time bomb that

doesn't tick and has no wires or

batteries? Hold on to your acid and

follow me into the next installment.



HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:

To get an understanding of how this is

going to work, mix up equal parts by

volume Potassium chlorate and

granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of

the mixture in a small pile and make a

depression in the top with the end of a

spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place

one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid

in the depression and step back. It

will snap and crackle a few times and

then burst into vigorous flames. To

make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a

plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small

piece of cotton in one end. On top of

this put about an inch of the

clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp

in about a quarter inch of either glass

wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this

with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4

drops of sulfuric acid. After a few

minutes the acid will soak through the

fibers and ignite the mixture. The time

delay can be controled by the amount of

fiber used and by varying how tightly

it is packed. Don't use cotton for

this. The acid will react with cotton

and become weakened in the process. By

punching a hole in the side of the

straw, a piece of blackmatch or other

fuse can be inserted and used to set

off the device of your choice.

Potassium chlorate was very popular

with the radical underground. It can be

used to make a wide variety of

explosives and incendiaries, some of

them extremely dangerous to handle. The

radicals lost several people that way.

But, don't worry. I am not going to try

to protect you from yourself. I have

decided to tell all. I will have more

to say about Potassium chlorate, but

for now, let's look at a couple of

interesting electric fuses.



HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE: Take a

flashlight bulb and place it glass tip

down on a file. Grind it down on the

file until there is a hole in the end.

Solder one wire to the case of the bulb

and another to the center conductor at

the end. Fill the bulb with black

powder or powdered match head. One or

two flashlight batteries will heat the

fillament in the bulb causing the

powder to ignite. ANOTHER ELECTRIC

FUSE: Take a medium grade of steel wool

and pull a strand out of it. Attach it

to the ends of two pieces of copper

wire by wrapping it around a few turns

and then pinch on a small piece of

solder to bind the strand to the wire.

You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand

between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a

good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1

inch piece of cardboard of the type

used in match covers. Place a small

pile of powdered match head in the

center and press it flat. place the

wires so the steel strand is on top of

and in contact with the powder.

Sprinkle on more powder to cover the

strand. The strand should be surounded

with powder and not touching anything

else except the wires at its ends.

Place a piece of blackmatch in contact

with the powder. Now put a piece of

masking tape on top of the lot, and

fold it under on the two ends. Press it

down so it sticks all around the

powder. The wires are sticking out on

one side and the blackmatch on the

other. A single flashlight battery will

set this off. ELECTRIC FUSE # 3: An

excellent electric fuse can be bought

ready made at hobby and toy stores. The

y are sold for setting off model

rockets.



MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION: Some of

the ingredients for these can only be

had from a chemical supply so they are

not my favorites. Look for powdered

aluminum at a good painting supply.

METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals

of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little

ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame

immediately. METHOD # 2: Mix by weight,

four parts ammonium chloride, one part

ammonium nitrate, four parts powered

zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and

make a depression on top. Put one or

two drops of water in the depression.

Stay well back from this. METHOD # 3:

Put one gram of powdered potassium

permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two

drops of glycerine onto it. After a few

seconds it will burst into flames.

METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of

powdered aluminum. Place a small amount

of sodium peroxide on top of this. A

volume the size of a small pea is about

right. One drop of water will cause

this to ignite in a blinding flare.

METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts

concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts

concentrated nitric acid. Hold a

dropper of turpentine about 2 feet

above the mixture. When drops strike

the acid they will burst into flame.



HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE: Here

are some notes I took four years ago on

how to make this wild explosive that

can be detonated by a fly walking on

it. Five grams iodine, three grams

potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated

ammonium hydroxide, filter paper,

funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and

iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml.

of water. Add the ammonium hydroxide

with stirring until no more precipitate

forms. Filter and spread a thin layer

of the wet solid on several filter

papers. Break the filter papers into

many small pieces and allow to dry for

several hours. On drying, the paper is

extremely sensitive to touch and will

explode violently with the slightest

disturbance. Can be handled safely when

wet. Do not let any sizeable quantity

of the dry material accumulate. --- I

was able to buy concentrated ammonium

hydroxide from a photographic supply.





[ This is the end of the file. Thanks ]



VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVRM



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          Exploding Light bulbs



           (_>Shadow Hawk 1<_)



I actually got this from a movie, and

have tried it [IT WORKS!!!]. Ok you may

have to do this a couple times before

you get it. Heres what you need:



A few light bulbs

Torch [one that will melt glass, radio

       shack single cylender model will

       do]

Some gasoline

Some liquid soap

Some epoxy glue



Heres what you do:



1) Make a hole in the light bulb like

   this:







                   *

                  ---

                  : :

  Make hole here  : :  or here.

                \ / \ /

                 /   \

                :     :

                :     :

                 \---/

             Not here!!!!!



2) Making the hole, like in the diagram

[dont make it on the bottom, because if

the seal you will make should break,

the person/room you want to eliminate

will notice the hole [and the gasoline

on the floor!!!] whereas the if its on

top it will still work...



3) Now carefully fill the light bulb

about half full with gas, and then the

rest with soap [hold on angle if you

have to]. Now epoxy the hole shut, and

screw it in...



have phun

(_>Shadow Hawk 1<_)



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Reply to00JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDFROMSYS$mKBSGS



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                           MAKING THERMITE

                            BY X CALIBUR

 

      THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY

ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK

OPEN A FORTRESS FONE.  NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE.

      THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS,

EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES

OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL

NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT.

ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE

                      ^^^^^^^^

WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT

IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE

SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE

JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON.

NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS

A NICE LIGHT RED.

      THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER

FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT

YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE

ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER

THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER

3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE!

      NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE

THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE

STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.)

THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE.  NOW YOU LIGHT THE

MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO

LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT

WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN

VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.

 

THIS FILE UPLOADED BY THE MYSTIC



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:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

:                                     :

:  HOW TO MAKE A WORKING LETTER-BOMB  :

:                 BY                  :

:                                     :

:          THE REBEL WARHEAD          :

:                                     :

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

LETTER BOMBS ARE VERY SIMPLE TO MAKE, BUT THE DIFFICULT PART IS MAKING SURE

IT WILL DETONATE PROPERLY, OR THAT IT IS NOT OBVIOUS THAT IT IS A BOMB.

 

MIXTURES:

ABOUT 75% ALUMINUM POWDER WITH 25% IRON POWER IS BEST.  THIS IS A LIGHT

VERSION OF THERMITE, SINCE IT IS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (THE ENVELOPE, AS

DESCRIBED BELOW A WAYS). MIX THE ABOVE WELL.  THE IDEA IS

THIS:  IRON CAN BURN, AT A VERY HIGH TEMPERATURE, BUT IT NEEDS A LITTLE

HELP.  THIS IS WHAT THE ALUMINUM IS FOR.  ALUMINUM BURNS AT A RELATIVELY

LOW TEMPERATURE, SO IT IS USED AS A CATALYST OF SORTS.  MAGNESIUM IS USED

TO FLASH-IGNITE THE ALUMINUM, WHICH THEN BURNS THE IRON, AT A SUITABLE

TEMPERATURE.  SINCE THIS IS GOING OFF IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE, IT WILL BURN

MUCH HOTTER AND SLOWER AND WITH MORE VIOLENCE THAN A NORMAL MIX.

I ADVISE YOU PLAY WITH THIS FOR A WHILE, LEARNING YOUR MIXTURE.

 

NOW FOR THE FUN STUFF:

GET AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE, THE TYPE THAT IS DOUBLE LAYERED.

SEPERATE THE LAYERS.  IN THE INNER LAYER GOES THE WONDERFUL MIXTURE,

ONE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH.  KEEP THIS SECTION SEPERATE, BUT IT MIGHT

BE HANDLE TO TOP IT OFF WITH SOME MAGNESIUM.  THE OUTER LAYER CAN BE

EITHER MAGNESIUM, FOR A FLASH BOMB, OR POSSIBLY A MATERIAL OF YOUR OWN

CHOICE.

  

NOW FOR THE DIFFICULT PART! THE FUSE...   WE CAN MAKE A FUSE

FROM ANOTHER SET OF CHEMICALS: IODINE CRYSTALS, AND AMONIUM HYDROXIDE,

IN LIQUID FORM.  MIX THESE TOGETHER,IN ABOUT AND EQUAL AMOUNT, BUT YOU 

MIGHT WANT TO USE A HEAVY AMOUNT OF IODINE IF PRESSED FOR TIME.  THESE

FORM A NEW CRYSTALLINE STRUCTURE, ABOUT AND INCH LONG.  THESE ARE HIGHLY

VOLATILE, AND I ADVISE KEEPING THEM PROTECTED.  THEY HAVE ABOUT THE IMPACT

POWER OF AN M-100 FOR A TEASPOON. I PUT THESE IN A PROTECTIVE CARD-BOARD

LINING, AND PUT THEM AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE.  RIG THIS SO IT PUTS

PRESSURE ON 



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        The Underground //

     [\> 714 - 929 - 0935 </]

       

    How to get Revenge on Someone

    -----------------------------

Written by Black Fire and Capt. Cloner

 

 

  Everyone has an enemy that they would

like to seek revenge on without the

victim knowing who the aggressor is.

Here are ways that have been proven

effective in the field of harrasing 

and/or annoying someone.

 

  Call the news papers, and adverise

an arctile similar to this:  "You too

can make calls free through MCI, ITT,

and other long distance services just

by making a local call.  For more

information, send a self-adressed

stamped envlope to:(fill in name and

adress with zip code)"  After this has

appeared in the papers, inform your

local FBI agent or police officer of

his ad.  You can also advertise an ad

like this: "Apple //e, 128k, 2 disk

drives, Amdek Color 3 Monitor, Hayes

Smartmodem 1200, and much more.  $750

or best offer. (phone number)".

 

  Another prank is to call house at all

hours, and post on all boards that a

new bulletin board is opening up at

his number.  Get everyone you know to

call him at all times (preferably late

at night.  Call answering machines,

and give the persons number and tell

them to call right away.  Also during

the day you can look up people in the

phone that have a "Mr. and Mrs." there,

and the wife will probably be home, but

not the husband, so tell the wife to 

tell the husband to call your victim

as soon as possible and give number.

Call Taxi's, Exterminators, Pizza

deliverys, Catorers, Garages, Plumers,

Dog Funeral Homes, Flower and Ballon

deliverys, Moving Services, Singing

and Striptease telegrams, Junkyards to

remove garbage, report robberies and

fires at his/her house, Locksmiths,

order oil from several companies 

(heating oil), order family portraits

taken at their home, sign him/her up

for the army, call realtors to put

house for sale, Septic cleaners, house

remodelers, call Bell + tell you are

having with phone, call cable company,

and call phone sex lines that call

back and give his number to call back.

Order plane tickets, send brochures of

all shit like colleges, beauty schools,

and all other things that send info.

on their place, and adress it to:

"DICK" and his last name.

 

  To have a little phun, drop by his

house one day, tie a chain to the back

of you truck/car and the other end to

the victims mailbox.  Take off, and no

more mailbox.  Also, throw eggs at 

house and cars, piss on cars and is gas

tank of cars.  Get 300 sheets+ of paper

and put in a paper shreader and after

it is in 1" by 1" pieces, throw all 

over his lawn in various places.

Another fun thing is to bring along

a baseball bat and knock the shit out

of his mailbox.  Send mail with not

enough postage to them, and wrap up

bricks and rocks and put no return 

adress on them and drop in a mailbox.

Get a library card out in his name, and

take out books and don't return them.

Lay tacks on either side of tires of

his car so either way he will run over

them.  Take weed killer, and pour it

on his flower garden or put your

initials on his front yard with it so

it will show up with dead grass.  You

can also use the old trick of laying

dog shit on his front porch.  Pour

grease all over driveway and steps,

dump your garbage cans over front yard,

when he puts his garbage at the end

of the driveway, dump the cans over the

street so he will have to pick it up in

the morning.  Smear warm tar on his

car windshield, and that shit isn't

coming off.  Crazy Glue or stick gum

over and in his car locks, and if he

goes to school do the same to his

locker.  Catch fish, and let them sit

out in the sun for a day, and that 

night lay the fish in their front yard.

Lay cow shit in their air conditioner,

 and stick sticks in the between the

fan blades for the air conditioner.

The toilet paper around their trees is

always good, and wet toilet paper and

stand out in the street and whip them

at their house, and when it dries, it

is hard as rock stuck to their house.

If they leave toys out, stick skate-

boards under car tires, rip heads off

of dolls, pull seats out bikes, and

let air out of bike tires.  You can

also ride by in the car with your BB

gun, and try your target practice.

Some of this has been tried, and some

not, but remember that it is best to

be near them when these happen, so you

can see their faces.  Never hint who

you are, and warn that you are not

finshed yet.  The best weapon you have

is your phone, because they can't keep

their phone off the hook 24 hrs. a day.

If they take the phone off the hook,

try back in 1/2 hour, and it will be

back on.  Most of these have been

proven effective, and the others will

most likely effective.  We have sat

here for hours thinking of every 

possible method of harrasing, bothing,

and annoying someone to the point of

insanity.  This has been written by

Black Fire with the help of Captain

Cloner.  We will be writing more as

soon as more ideas are tested.  You

will be hearing more from us.  Have

fun, and remember this is only a game!

 

        (> Black Fire <)

           ----------

 

       - Captain Cloner -

         --------------

 

Q/uit  Which ->

done



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--------------------------------------

[                                    ]

[       HOME EXPLOSIVES              ]

[                                    ]

[   FROM: INGY                       ]

[         <THE COMMANDERS            ]

[                                    ]

[ TYPED UP AND UPLOADED BY:          ]

[             SID VICIOUS            ]

[                                    ]

--------------------------------------

P.S. DON'T KILL YOURSELF...



.......................................



->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<-

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE-

   HOLD AMMONIA.



2) WAIT OVERNIGHT



3) POUR OFF LIQUID



4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CON-

   CRETE)



5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT!



........................................



->SMOKE BOMB<-

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



1) MIX:        3 PARTS SUGAR

           ----------------------

            6 PARTS EPSON SALTS



2) PUT IN A TIN CAN, AND ONTO A LOW

   FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER)



3) LET GEL & HARDEN



4) PUT MATCH IN AS A FUSE.



5) LIGHT AND RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 

   POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK...



........................................



->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<-

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



1) MIX:    7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE

           --------------------------

                 1 PART VASELINE



2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR

   A FUSE.



.........................................



->CAR BOMB<-

^^^^^^^^^^^^



1) PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PILLBOX (THE 

   KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON A PRE-

   SCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK)



2) CLOSE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS 

   TANK



3) WAIT 5 MINUTES.



4) RUN



.........................................



->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE<-

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



1)MIX:       2 PARTS VASELINE

            ------------------

             1 PART GASOLINE 



2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE





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                      ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[

                      ]]  LOCK  PICKING  [[

                      ]]       BY        [[

                      ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[

                      ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[





SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE

JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD

BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED

LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE

UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK

ELSEWHERE.



THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE

"LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF

THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING

THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT.



FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET

HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU

TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T

GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS

TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)



THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE

SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND

THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.)

IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:





  #1

       \\

        \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\         (THIS IS

                                                      THE HANDLE

                                           \\\        THAT WAS

                                                      ALREADY

                                           \\\        (HERE.)

                                           \\\

                                           \\\

                                           \\\





NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END

(#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK.  TEST

YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE

IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.

IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME

LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ?



LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.





IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE

INTERIOR OF A LOCK:



XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K

 #  #  #  #   #   #    | E

    #     #   #   #    | Y

 *     *               | H

 *  *  *  *   *   *    | O

                       | L

                       | E

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|



#= UPPER TUMLER PIN

*= LOWER TUMLER PIN

X= CYLINDER WALL



(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)



THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE

UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW,

IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ?



THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.



INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL

KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE

BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH.....



THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE

DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL

PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT

YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.



THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER

WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW.







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READ> NAPALM GRENADE



                        =&=&=Napalm Made Easy=&=&=

                            $^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^

 

                          Typed and uploaded by:

 

-------------------------------=>Sir Knight<=----------------------------------

 

     Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many 

things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)Here's what'cha need:

 

===============================================================================

Gasoline                                Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy)

A Coke can with a sawed off top         Ammonia Pellets

A Drill                                 Some bendable wire

A Nail

===============================================================================

 

        First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline.

Take the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture...

it should look like this:

 

          -^-^-^-^-^-^-^-

          !             !

          !             ! <-Coke Can

          !             !

          !=============!

          !=============!

          !=============! <-Mixture

          !=============!

          ---------------

 

     Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm-

onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(which

I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to the

top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet to

drop...WARNING:  DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOUR

WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off to

let it drop...It should look like this:

 

      (========<+>=========)

      ! ^^Nail  ^^Pellet   !

      !                    !

      !                    !

      !                    !

      !====================!

      !====================! <-Mixture

      !====================!

      !====================!

      ----------------------

 

       And there is your Napalm grenade...if there is enough demand,

there will be another article on more advanced Napalm......

 

 

(>

(>



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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

$                                     $

$          BLOWING UP A CAR           $

$          ------- -- - ---           $

$                                     $

$      AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:      $

$                                     $

$      THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND      $

$           BY KURT SAXON             $

$                                     $

$                                     $

$        Typed and Uploaded by:       $

$                                     $

$$$$$$$$$$$$-=>Lex Luthor<=-$$$$$$$$$$$

$                                     $

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$





   The best methods of blowing up a car

requires getting under the hood. Explo

sives are placed as near the occupants

as possilbe. NOTE- THIS ARTICLE IS FOR

THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO

PSYCH OUT THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACT

ICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE

IN MIND, THEN READ ON:



   The fuse, homemade, commercial or

safetey, is wrapped a few turns around

the exhause manifold. After a few min-

utes on the road the exhaust manifold

gets almost red hot and ignites the

fuse.



   This way is more certain than wiring

the car because since it blows up on

the road the wreck will do the victem

in even if the blast doesn't. Besides,

if the intended victim is a passenger

instead of the driver, the driver may

start the engine before the passenger

gets into the car... You can see how

embarrassing that would be to the

bomber, can't you?



   Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia,

love to wire cars. They are too set in

thier ways to change and besides, they

get a charge out of seeing a car blow

up before thier eyes instead of

imagining it going to hell on the road.



   They usually use about three sticks

of dynamite, two lengths of electric

wire with two alligator clips for quick

attachment, and an electric blasting

cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite

stick and its two wires are connected

to the two electric wires. Then one

alligator clip is clamped to the input

side of the coil and the other is

fastened to any metal surface in the

car's frame as a ground.



   This is very simple and you'd think

anyone could do it. But sure enough,

there are always morons who will attach

one clamp to a spark plug and one to a

ground. This usually results in mis

fires and no end of frustrations.



----------------------------------------

Call The Morgue at:(201)376-4462

    The Armoury at:(201)267-1207



[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:19



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CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES

BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG





    UPLOADED BY -THE TRIXTER-





 THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVE

S. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, 

AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LAR

GER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIM

ENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU

 SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH C

HEMICALS.

 I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO

RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT

ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.



===============================================================================





I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES.



 A. GUNPOWDER:

     75% POTASSIUM NITRATE

     15% CHARCOAL

     10% SULFUR

   

      THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER (SEPERATELY!) WITH A MO

RTER & PESTLE. IF GUNPOWDER IS IGNITED IN THE OPEN, IT BURNS FIERCELY, BUT IF I

N A CLOSED SPACE IT BUILDS UP PRESSURE FROM THE RELEASED GASES AND CAN EXPLODE 

THE CONTAINER. GUNPOWDER WORKS LIKE THIS: THE POTASSIUM NITRATE OXIDIZES THE CH

ARCOAL AND SULFUR, WHICH THEN BURN FIERCELY. CARBON DIOXIDE AND SULFUR DIOXIDE 

ARE THE GASES RELEASED.



 B. AMMONAL:

     AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH ALUMINUM

 POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR AMMON

AL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS.



 C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:

  

  1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR (SUCROSE) BU

RNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1 DROP OF 

CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THE ACID 

IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE, WHICH 

EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL.

  2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY WELL F

OR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE' (TM).

 HERE IT IS: POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM NITRATE + AM

MONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON FILINGS + CHARCOA

L + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT. (SCARLET= STRONTIUM NITRATE, PURPLE= IODIN

E CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM CHLORIDE, ETC...).

  3. SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES? IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT. MIXTURE:

 AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST. WHEN A DROP OR TWO 

OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH REACTS WITH THE

 ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT. THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE IODINE (GIVING OFF P

URPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN MIXED WITH IODINE V

APOR). IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING.

     AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS

     AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM

     ZINC DUST: 8 GRAMS

     IODINE CRYSTALS: 1 GRAM

  4. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-COLORED FL

AME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN. WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY GROUND

.

  5. CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE GAS USED 

IN BLOW TORCHES...)



II. THERMITE REACTION.



  THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN IRON AN

D TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+). IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS THAT I

 TALKED ABOUT TO START IT! 



  STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR

  MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER (325 MESH OR FINER)



    PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT. TO STA

RT THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE STA

RTER MIXTURE. STEP BACK! THE RATIOS ARE: 3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1 PART ALUM

INUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR.

 WHEN YOU FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G!

 ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE THERMITE REACTION. THE ALTERNATI

VE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE. AMOUNTS: 55G IRON(III) OXIDE, 15G ALU

MINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE.



III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES.



  A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE

      TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE M

IGHT ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY. THIS IS

 SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE PURCHASE

D. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT FULMINIC ACID. 

YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART MERCURY. THIS IS THEOR

ETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMA

LL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS.



  B. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE

      NITROGEN TRIIODIDE IS A VERY POWERFUL AND VERY SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE.

 NEVER STORE IT AND BE CARFUL WHEN YOU'RE AROUND IT- SOUND, AIR MOVEMENTS, AND 

OTHER TINY THINGS COULD SET IT OFF.



MATERIALS-

   2-3G IODINE

   15ML CONC. AMMONIA

   8 SHEETS FILTER PAPER

   50ML BEAKER

   FEATHER MOUNTED ON A TWO METER POLE

   EAR PLUGS

   TAPE

   SPATULA

   STIRRING ROD



  ADD 2-3G IODINE TO 15ML AMMONIA IN THE 50ML BEAKER. STIR, LET STAND FOR 5 MIN

UTES.

DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES!

   RETAIN THE SOLID, DECANT THE LIQUID (POUR OFF THE LIQUID BUT KEEP THE BROWN 

SOLID...). SCAPE THE BROWN RESIDUE OF NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ONTO A STACK OF FOUR S

HEETS OF FILTER PAPER. DIVIDE SOLID INTO FOUR PARTS, PUTTING EACH ON A SEPERATE

 SHEET OF DRY FILTER PAPER. TAPE IN POSITION, LEAVE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR AT L

EAST 30 MINUTES (PREFERRABLY LONGER). TO DETONATE, TOUCH WITH FEATHER. (WEAR EA

R PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)



  C. CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON)



       COMMONLY KNOWN AS SMOKELESS POWDER, NITROCELLULOSE IS EXACTLY THAT- IT D

OES NOT GIVE OFF SMOKE WHEN IT BURNS.



MATERIALS-

  70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID

  30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID

  5G ABSORBENT COTTON

  250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE

  250ML BEAKER

  ICE BATH

  TONGS

  PAPER TOWELS



   PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACI

D. DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID SO

LUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML WATE

R. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE.

 IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS. SQUEEZE DRY 

AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT.





  D. NITROGLYCERINE



    NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS USED 

IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS.

    I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO

 I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.



MATERIALS-

  70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID

  30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID

  10 ML GLYCERINE

  ICE BATH

  150ML BEAKER



   PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD. SLO

WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO MAINTA

IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD ABOUT 10ML 

GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN NITROGLYCE

RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND ALL

 WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW HO

URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH NITRIC AND S

ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE CAN 

FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT IF YO

U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S OF G

ASES.

   TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING

 LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).





IV. OTHER STUFF



  A. PEROXYACETONE



   PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSI

TIVE.



MATERIALS-

  4ML ACETONE

  4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

  4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID

  150MM TEST TUBE



 ADD 4ML ACETONE AND 4ML HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE TEST TUBE. THEN ADD 4 DROPS C

ONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IN 10-20 MINUTES A WHITE SOLID SHOULD BEGIN TO A

PPEAR. IF NO CHANGE IS OBSERVED, WARM THE TEST TUBE IN A WATER BATH AT 40 CELSI

US. ALLOW THE REACTION TO CONTINUE FOR TWO HOURS. SWIRL THE SLURRY AND FILTER I

T. LEAVE OUT ON FILTER PAPER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS. TO IGNITE, LIGHT A 

CANDLE TIED TO A METER STICK AND LIGHT IT (WHILE STAYING AT LEAST A METER AWAY)

.



  B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...



   THE FOLLOWING REACTION SHOULD PRODUCE A FAIR AMOUNT OF SMOKE. SINCE THIS REA

CTION IS NOT ALL THAT DANGEROUS YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS IF NECESSARY FOR LAR

GER AMOUNTS OF SMOKE.



   6G ZINC POWDER

   1G SULFUR POWDER



    INSERT A RED HOT WIRE INTO THE PILE, STEP BACK. A LOT OF SMOKE SHOULD BE CR

EATED.











 THERE ARE MANY OTHER EXPERIMENTS I COULD HAVE INCLUDED, BUT I WILL SAVE THEM F

OR THE NEXT CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE. UPCOMING ARTICLES WILL INCLUDE GLOW-IN-TH

E-DARK REACTIONS, 'PARTY' REACTIONS, THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS

, AND MORE...



 I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE CREDIT TO A BOOK BY SHAKASHARI ENTITLED "CHEMICAL DEMONST

RATIONS" FOR A FEW OF THE PRECISE AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS IN SOME EXPERIMENTS.





 THIS IS IT FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #1... LOOK FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: WHAT TO DO

 WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS...



            ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

  

---------------------------------------





THE CHEMIST'S CORNER

ARTICLE #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS

BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG









 THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO SOME INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS

 WITH COMMON HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS. SOME MAY OR MAY NOT WORK DEPENDING ON THE CON

CENTRATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS IN DIFFERENT AREAS AND BRANDS. I WOULD SUGGEST 

THAT THE PERSON DOING THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF CHEMISTRY, ESPEC

IALLY FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS EXPERIMENTS.

 I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO

RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT

ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.



===============================================================================





I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION



VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID

BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE

DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE

SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE

AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE

CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID

TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE

SUGAR: SUCROSE

MILK OF MAGNESIA- MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE

TINCTURE OF IODINE- 47% ALCOHOL, 4% IODINE

RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)



ETC... 





EXP #1: YE OLD FIZZ EXPERIMENT



 MIX VINEGAR WITH BAKING SODA. IT PRODUCES SODIUM ACETATE AND CARBONIC ACID. CA

RBONIC ACID QUICKLY DECOMPOSES INTO CARBON DIOXIDE AND WATER, RESULTING IN THE 

"FIZZ".

 THIS SIMPLE REACTION CAN BE CONTAINED IN A SMALL BOTTLE OR SOMETHING, AND WHEN

 ENOUGH PRESSURE BUILDS UP IT WILL BREAK OPEN. I SINCERELY DOUBT THAT IT WILL B

LOW "ALL FOUR WALLS OFF THE HOUSE" AS SOME LOSER WROTE IN HIS SAFEHOUSE ARTICLE

. THE SAME BASIC THING CAN BE DONE WITH DRY ICE & WATER, BAKING POWDER & WATER,

 CITRIC ACID & BAKING SODA, AND MANY OTHER COMBINATIONS.



EXP #2: A FRUITY BATTERY



 IF YOU'RE EVER IN NEED OF A LITTLE POWER, GET YOUR HANDS ON THESE:



 A CITRUS FRUIT (LEMON, ORANGE, ETC)

 A SMALL ZINC STRIP

 A SMALL COPPER STRIP



  JUST STICK THE ZINC STRIP IN ONE END OF A LEMON AND A COPPER STRIP IN THE OTH

ER. YOU NOW HAVE A 1.5 VOLT BATTERY! JUST ATTACH THE WIRES TO THE COPPER & ZINC

 STRIPS... 





EXP #3: GENERATING CHLORINE GAS



 THIS IS SLIGHTLY MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE OTHER TWO EXPERIMENTS, SO YOU SHOUILD

 KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU TRY THIS... 



 EVER WONDER WHY AMMONIA BOTTLES ALWAYS SAY 'DO NOT MIX WITH CHLORINE BLEACH', 

AND VISA-VERSA? THAT'S BECAUSE IF YOU MIX AMMONIA WATER WITH AJAX OR SOMETHING 

LIKE IT, IT WILL GIVE OFF CHLORINE GAS. TO CAPTURE IT, GET A LARGE BOTTLE AND P

UT AJAX IN THE BOTTOM. THEN POUR SOME AMMONIA DOWN INTO THE BOTTLE. SINCE THE C

HLORINE IS HEAVIER THAN AIR, IT WILL STAY DOWN IN THERE UNLESS YOU USE LARGE AM

OUNTS OF EITHER AJAX OR AMMONIA (DON'T!). FOR SOMETHING FUN TO DO WITH CHLORINE

 STAY TUNED....





EXP #4: CHLORINE + TURPENTINE



 TAKE A SMALL CLOTH OR RAG AND SOAK IT IN TURPENTINE. QUICKLY DROP IT INTO THE 

BOTTLE OF CHLORINE. IT SHOULD GIVE OFF A LOT OF BLACK SMOKE AND PROBABLY START 

BURNING...





EXP #5: GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS



 TO GENERATE HYDROGEN, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ACID AND A METAL THAT WILL REACT WITH

 THAT ACID. TRY VINEGAR (ACETIC ACID) WITH ZINC, ALUMINUM, MAGNESIUM, ETC. YOU 

CAN COLLECT HYDROGEN IN SOMETHING IF YOU NOTE THAT IT IS LIGHTER THAN AIR.... L

IGHT A SMALL AMOUNT AND IT BURNS WITH A SMALL *POP*. 

 ANOTHER WAY OF CREATING HYDROGEN IS BY THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER. THIS INVOLVE

S SEPERATING WATER (H2O) INTO HYDROGEN AND OXYGEN BY AN ELECTRIC CURRENT. TO DO

 THIS, YOU NEED A 6-12 VOLT BATTERY, TWO TEST TUBES, A LARGE BOWL, TWO CARBON E

LECTRODES (TAKE THEM OUT OF AN UNWORKING 6-12 VOLT BATTERY), AND TABLE SALT. DI

SSOLVE THE SALT IN A LARGE BOWL FULL OF WATER. SUBMERGE THE TWO TEST TUBES IN T

HE WATER AND PUT THE ELECTRODES INSIDE THEM, WITH THE MOUTH OF THE TUBE AIMING 

DOWN. CONNECT THE BATTERY TO SOME WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE ELECTRODES. THIS WILL 

WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT CHLORINE WILL BE GENERATED ALONG WITH THE OXYGEN WHICH WI

LL UNDOUBTEDLY CORRODE YOUR COPPER WIRES LEADING TO THE CARBON ELECTRODES... (T

HE TABLE SALT IS BROKEN UP INTO CHLORINE AND SODIUM IONS, THE CHLORINE COMES OF

F AS A GAS WITH OXYGEN WHILE SODIUM REACTS WITH THE WATER TO FORM SODIUM HYDROX

IDE....). THEREFORE, IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME SULFURIC ACID, USE IT IN

STEAD. IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE REACTION OTHER THAN MAKING THE WATER CONDUCT ELEC

TRICITY.





EXP #6: HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE



 TAKE THE TEST TUBE OF HYDROGEN AND COVER THE MOUTH WITH YOUR THUMB. KEEP IT IN

VERTED, AND BRING IT NEAR THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE (NOT ONE THAT HAS REACTED WITH

 TURPENTINE). SAY "GOODBYE TEST TUBE", AND DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE. THE HYDROGE

N AND CHLORINE SHOULD REACT AND POSSIBLY EXPLODE (DEPENDING ON PURITY AND AMOUN

T OF EACH GAS). AN INTERESTING THING ABOUT THIS IS THEY WILL NOT REACT IF IT IS

 DARK AND NO HEAT OR OTHER ENERGY IS AROUND. WHEN A LIGHT IS TURNED ON, ENOUGH 

ENERGY IS PRESENT TO CAUSE THEM TO REACT...



EXP #7: PREPARATION OF OXYGEN



 GET SOME HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (FROM A DRUG STORE) AND MANGANESE DIOXIDE (FROM A B

ATTERY- IT'S A BLACK POWDER). MIX THE TWO IN A BOTTLE, AND THEY GIVE OFF OXYGEN

. IF THE BOTTLE IS STOPPERED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP AND SHOOT IT OFF. TRY LIGH

TING A WOOD SPLINT AND STICKING IT (WHEN ONLY GLOWING) INTO THE BOTTLE. THE OXY

GEN WILL MAKE IT BURST INTO FLAME. EXPERIMENT WITH IT. THE OXYGEN WILL ALLOW TH

INGS TO BURN BETTER...



EXP #8: ALCOHOL



 BUY SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL IN A DRUG STORE. USUALLY THIS IS EITHER 70% OR 99% AL

COHOL AND BURNS JUST GREAT. YOU CAN SOAK A TOWEL IN WATER AND THEN IN ACOHOL, L

IGHT THE TOWEL, AND WHEN IT FINISHES BURNING THE ALCOHOL, THE FLAME SHOULD GO O

UT AND LEAVE THE TOWEL UNHARMED. NICE FOR "PARTY TRICKS", ETC. 



EXP #9: IODINE?



 TINCTURE OF IODINE CONTAINS MAINLY ALCOHOL AND A LITTLE IODINE. TO SEPERATE TH

EM, PUT THE TINCTURE OF IODINE IN A METAL LID TO A BOTTLE AND HEAT IT OVER A CA

NDLE. HAVE A STAND HOLDING ANOTHER METAL LID DIRECTLY OVER THE TINCTURE (ABOUT 

4-6 INCHES ABOVE IT) WITH ICE ON TOP OF IT. THE ALCOHOL SHOULD EVAPORATE, AND T

HE IODINE SHOULD SUBLIME, BUT SHOULD REFORM IODINE CRYSTALS ON THE COLD METAL L

ID DIRECTLY ABOVE. IF THIS WORKS (I HAVEN'T TRIED), YOU CAN USE THE IODINE ALON

G WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA TO FORM NITROGEN TRIIODIDE (DISCUSSED IN ARTICLE #1).



EXP #10: GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION!



 WANT TO TRY YOUR OWN 'GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION'? GET A CANDLE AND SOME FLOUR..

. LIGHT THE CANDLE AND PUT SOME FLOUR IN YOUR HAND. TRY VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING

 THE FLOUR TO LEAVE YOUR HAND AND BECOME DUST RIGHT OVER THE CANDLE FLAME. THE 

ENORMOUS SURFACE AREA ALLOWS ALL THE TINY DUST PARTICLES TO BURN, WHICH THEY DO

 AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME, COMBINING TO FORM A FIREBALL EFFECT. IN GRAIN ELEVATOR

S, MUCH THE SAME THING HAPPENS. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME LYCOPODIUM PO

WDER, DO. THIS WILL WORK MUCH BETTER, CREATING HUGE FIREBALLS THAT ARE UNEXPECT

ED.





 THAT'S ENOUGH FOR NOW... MORE TO COME IN LATER CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLES... 



           ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

TRIXS OF THE TRADE...APPLE-BOOTLEGGER

/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/



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************************************

*  A N O T H E R     B O M B ! ! ! *

*           CHLOROX-DRAINO         *

*                                  *

*                By                *

*           The Mortician          *

*            Sysop of:             *

*           The Morgue             *

*         (201)376-4462            *

************************************

  I am not too sure on how this works

but I am pretty sure that you can make

a really powerful bomb by taking a can

of draino and mixing it with Chlorox.

I think that these two compuonds will

spontaniously explode so don't just pour

them together. I think what you do is

get the draino in a cardboard can and

then put it in a bucket of chlorox

and what will happen is either the

draino or chlorox will eat through

the cardboard and they will meet and

explode. You might want to experiment

with this by rigging it up so you can

cause the two to combine while you

stand a distance a way. I reccomend

extreme caution with this and wear

goggles definately.... Just like

pour some chlorox into a pan and

then have a can of draino with a

string tied to it so you can make it

spill into the chlorox... Be Care

full. I don't need a law suit...

************************************

If you find anything out call

The Morgue and leave me feedback

and/or get me in chat and I will

update this file with credit

to you....

************************************

Call:

MORDOR AE...201-528-6467  PW:ZANDAR







************************************





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** WARNING **



Richie Rich and the staff of Pearl City Networks is not responisible for

any damage done while doing the following experiments...do it at your own

risk!!!!



winston smith and mr.mojo risin present:

an anarchist's beginning guide to explosives! (or how to get back at those

neighbors who told you to turn your stereo down by blowing em up!)



1.quickie...



    take organic pool chlorine and mix it with vegtable shortening and put it

someplace you don't like.  it reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white

smoke and heat.

 

2.a pipe bomb (dangerous)



    take a pipe crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of parafin.  (or

any other semi-solid with about the samebasic chemical structure)  poke a

number of holes through the length of the parafin.  on top of this put a very

thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that

it fits tightly all the way around.  on top of this put some high concentration

hcl (or similar acid).  close the top now, stand it on end (parafin end down),

and get the f*ck away.  you should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the

thickness of the wafer.  watch out for shrappnel.



3.  snowball...



     take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form this into a snowball.

leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it will do neat stuff when it dries out.

(substituting some magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour

helps things a bit.)

 

4.fire bomb..



    take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. put it in a 

stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire.

when the cs2 evaporates, it leaves a film of p on what ever it hits, and it

starts a fire with the solvent vapors.

 

5. light bulb bomb (click...booom!)



    take a light bulb (brass based preferably so you can solder the wires back

when you are done)  unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass.

(one at the center of the bass and one on the side)  remove the base taking

care not to damage the bulb or filiment.

  take a pair of needle nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is now

exposed.  fill bulb (not completely) via the hole you just made with gasoline.

plug hole with silicone or something. put the base back on. resolder the wires

  screw into light fixture (with power off of course!) turn on light...booom!

 

mr.mojo risin and winston smith assume no responsiblity for personal injury or

damage to property cause by these devices of destruction. anarchy rules!





+-------------------------------------+

!  H O W   T O   M A K E   D R U G S  !

+-------------------------------------+



  IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE

OF THESE DRUGS.  YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL.  USE THEM ONLY AS

AN ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE.



  THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES.  ALL SHOULD

WORK IF MADE PROPERLY.



+-------------------------------------+

!  MAKING L.S.D. IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN  !

+-------------------------------------+



1]  GRIND UP 150 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS OR BABY HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS.



2]  IN 130 C.C. OF PETROLEUM ETHER SOAK THE SEEDS FOR 2 DAYS.



3]  FILTER THE SOLUTION THROUGH A TIGHT SCREEN.



4]  THROW AWAY LIQUID, AND ALLOW SEEDS MUSH TO DRY.



5]  FOR 2 DAYS ALLOW THE MUSH TO SOAK IN 110 C.C. OF WOOD ALCOHOL.



6]  FILTER THE SOLUTION AGAIN, SAVING THE LIQUID AND LABELING IT '1'



7]  RESOAK THE MUCH IN 110 C.C. OF WOOK ALCOHOL FOR 2 DAYS.



8]  FILTER AND THROW AWAY MUSH.



9]  ADD LIQUID FROM THE SECOND SOAK TO THE LIQUID LABELED '1'.



10] POUR THE LIQUID INTO A COOKIE TRAY AND ALLOW IT TO EVAPORATE.



11] WHEN ALL LIQUID HAS EVAPORATED, A YELLOW GUM REMAINS.  THIS SHOULD

    BE SCRAPED AND PUT IN CAPSULES.



     30 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS

                  - OR -

       15 HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS

               - EQUALS -



                ONE TRIP



** NOTE ** MANY COMPANIES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO COAT THIER SEEDS WITH TOXIN.

ORDER SEEDS FROM A WHOLESALER.



+-------------------------------------+

! OTHER VARIOUS LEGAL & ILLEGAL DRUGS !

+-------------------------------------+



--> BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)



BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG.

THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT

BANANAS AE LEGAL (OF COURSE!)



1]  OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS



2]  PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.



3]  WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE

    THE SCRAPED MATERIAL.



4]  PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER.  BOIL FOR THREE

    TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE.



5]  SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN.

    TO A HALF AN HOUR.  THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER

    ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES



--> COUGH SYRUP? (SURE, WHY NOT?)



MIX ROBOTUSSION A-C WITH AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF GINGER ALE AND DRINK.  NOTE

THAT YOU CAN OVERDOSE ON THIS ONE!



--> GLUE...YUCK!



PUT HALF A TUBE OF AIRPLANE GLUE ON ANY (I MEAN, IN ANY) PLASTIC BAG AND SNIFF

IT.  IT'S REALLY GROSS BUT SOME PEOPLE REALLY GET INTO IT..



--> HEROINE



DON'T WASTE YOUR LIFE ON IT...



--> PEANUTS!



1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS.



2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.



3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING DR. WHO ONE NIGHT.



4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM.



--> TOAD SKINS? YOU'RE CRAZY!!



1]  COLLECT 5-10 TOADS



2]  KILL THEM AS PAINLESSLY AS POSSIBLE AND SKIN THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!



3]  ALLOW SKINS TO DRY ON THE FRIDGE FOR 4 TO 5 DAYS, OR UNTI THEY ARE

    BRITTLE.



4]  CRUSH INTO A POWDER AND SMOKE.  DUE TO THE BAD TASTE, MIX IT WITH MINT

    OR SOMETHING ELSE.



+-------------------------------------+



PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THESE THESE DRUGS SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR AN ADDITIONAL

EXPERIENCE IN LIFE.  DO NOT USE THEM AS AN ESCAPE, OR JUST FOR THE HELL OF

IT!  SEE YA, AND HAVE FUN??!!..??!!..





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**********************************

*      T R I P    W I R E S      *

*              By                *

*          The Mortician         *

**********************************







     Well first of all I reccommend

that you read the file on my board

about landmines... If you can't then

here is the conecpt. You can use an

m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other

type of elxplose that will light with

a fuse. Now the way this works is

if you have a 9volt batery, from a

radio ctlred car or what ever and

get either a solor igniter (preferably)

or some steel wool you can create

a remote ignition system. What you

do it set up a schematic like this.



        ------------------>+ batery

 steel ||                ->- batery

 wool  ||                /

  :==:---  <--fuse       \

       ||                /

       ---- spst switch--\



So when the switch is on the currnet

will flow through the steel wool or

igniter and heat up causing the fuse

to light.

     Note: For use with steel wool

try it first and get a really thin

peice of wire and pump the current

through it to make sure it will heat

up to light the explosive.



**********************************

Now the thing to do is plant your

explosive whereever you want it to

be but bury it and cover the wires

obviously... Now take a this wire

fishing line is good about 20 lb.

test and tie one end of the wire

to a secure object. Have your switch

secured to seomthing to and make a

loop on the other end on the line.

Put the loop around the switch such

that when pulled it will pull the

switch and set off the explosive.



to ignite the explosive... The thing

to do is to experiment with this

and find your best method... Let me

know on any good kills, or new

techniques... On my board...

       (201)376-4462

**********************************

CALL MORDOR AE..201-528-6467  PW:ZANDAR









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U/L TO RIPCO 6/3/85 BY STEE ONE



+------------------------------------+

! KING ARTHUR'S DEMOLITION ARTICLE #1!

+------------------------------------+

 

 

     LIKE ALL CHEMISTS I MUST ADVISE

YOU ALL TO TAKE THE GREATEST CARE AND

CAUTION WHEN YOU ARE DOING THIS.  EVEN

IF YOU HAVE MADE THIS STUFF BEFORE.

 

     THIS FIRST ARTICLE WILL GIVE YOU

INFORMATION ON MAKING NITROGLYERIN, THE

BASIC INGREDIENT IN A LOT OF EXPLOSIVES

SUCH AS STRAIGHT DYNAMITES, AND GELETIN

DYNAMITES.

 

--------------------------------------

 

         MAKING NITROGLYCERIN

 

--------------------------------------

 

 

     1. FILL A 75-MILLILITER BEAKER TO

THE 13 ML. LEVEL WITH FUMING RED NITRIC

ACID, OF 98% PURE CONCENTRATION.

 

     2. PLACE THE BEAKER IN AN ICE BATH

AND ALLOW TO COOL BELOW ROOM TEMP.

 

     3. AFTER IT HAS COOLED, ADD TO IT

THREE TIMES THE AMOUNT OF FUMING

SULFERIC ACID (99% H2SO4).  IN OTHER

WORDS, ADD TO THE NOW-COOL FUMING

NITRIC ACID 39 ML. OF FUMING SULFERIC

ACID.  WHEN MIXING ANY ACIDS, ALWAYS DO

IT SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO AVOID

SPLATTERING.

 

     4. WHEN THE TWO ARE MIXED, LOWER

THIER TEMP. BY ADDING MORE ICE TO THE

BATH, ABOUT 10-15 DEGREES CENTIGRADE.

(USE A MERCURY-OPERATED THERMOMETER)

 

     5. WHEN THE ACID SOLUTION HAS

COOLED TO THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE, IT

IS READY FOR THE GLYCERIN. THE GLYCERIN

MUST BE ADDED IN SMALL AMOUNTS USING A

MEDICINE DROPPER.  (READ THIS STEP

ABOUT 10 TIMES!)  GLYCERIN IS ADDED

SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY (I MEAN CAREFUL!)

UNTIL THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE ACID IT

COVERED WITH IT.

 

     6. THIS IS A DANGEROUS POINT SINCE

THE NITRATION WILL TAKE PLACE AS SOON

AS THE GLYCERIN IS ADDED. THE NITRATION

WILL PRODUCE HEAT, SO THE SOLUTION MUST

BE KEPT BELOW 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE! IF

THE SOLUTION SHOULD GO ABOVE 30

DEGREES,  IMMEDIATELY DUMP THE SOLUTION

INTO THE ICE BATH!  THIS WILL INSURE

THAT IT DOES NOT GO OFF IN YOUR FACE!

 

     7. FOR HTE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF

NITRATION, THE MIXTURE SHOULD BE GENTLY

STIRRED.  IN A NORMAL REACTION THE

NITROGLYCERIN WILL FORMAS A LAYER ON

TOP OF THE ACID SOLUTION, WHILE THE

SULFERIC ACID WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS

WATER.

 

     8. AFTER THE NITRATION HAS TAKEN

PLACE, AND THE NITROGLYCERIN HAS FORMED

ON THE TOP OF THE SOLUTION, THE ENTIRE

BEAKER SHOULD BE TRANSFERRED SLOWLY AND

CAREFULLY TO ANOTHER BEAKER OF WATER.

WHEN THIS IS DONE THE NITROGLYCERIN

WILL SETTLE AT THE BOTTEM SO THE OTHER

ACIDS CAN BE DRAINED AWAY.

 

     9. AFTER REMOVING AS MUCH ACID AS

POSIBLE WITHOUT DISTURBING THE

NITROGLYCERIN, REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN

WITH AN EYEDROPPER AND PLACE IT IN A

BICARBONATE OF SODA (SODIUM BICARBONATE

IN CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW) SOLUTION. THE

SODIUM IS AN ALKALAI AND WILL

NUETRALIZE MUCH OF THE ACID REMAINING.

THIS PROCESS SHOULD BE REPEATED AS MUCH

AS NECESARRY USING BLUE LITMUS PAPER TO

CHECK FOR THE PRESENCE OF ACID. THE

REMAINING ACID ONLY MAKES THE NITROGLY-

CERIN MORE UNSTABLE THAN IT ALREADY

IS.

 

     10. FINALLY! THE FINAL STEP IS TO

REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN FROM THE BI-

CARBONATE.  HIS IS DONE WITH AND EYE-

DROPPER, SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY.  THE

USUAL TEST TO SEE IF NITRATION HAS BEEN

SUCCESSFUL IS TO PLACE ONE DROP OF THE

NITROGLYCERIN ON METAL AND IGNITE IT.

IF IT IS TRUE NITROGLYCERIN IT WILL

BURN WITH A CLEAR BLUE FLAME.

 

** CAUTION **

NITRO IS VERY SENSATIVE TO DECOMPOSI-

TION, HEATING DROPPING, OR JARRING, AND

MAY EXPLODE IF LEFT UNDISTURBED AND

COOL.

 

--------------------------------------

 

NEXT ARTICLES: #2 MERCURY FULMINATE

               #3 DYNAMITES

               #4 CHLORIDE OF AZODE

 

--------------------------------------

SPECIAL THANKS TO THE ICEBERG <=-:+**#



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***************************************

RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE

***************************************

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

-GASOLINE - 1 PART

-OIL - 1 HALF PART

-STYROFOAM - 1

 

1) MELT STYROFOAM.

  -REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE

   MIXTURE GET TOO HOT.

 

2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY.

 

3) MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN

   FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD

   STYROFOAM, THEN OIL, THEN GAS.

 

4) MIX IN A DEEP POT - KEEP MIXTURE

   AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS

   STEP WITH EXTREME CAUTION.

 

5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE

   BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE -

   AROUND 88 DEGREES FARENHEIT.

 

6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT.

   (DIFFERENT SHAPES WILL MAKE IT MORE

   OR LESS LETHAL).

 

OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND

SCREWS WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH

GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80'S, OR ANY OTHER

TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE

EQUIVILANT OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL.

 

NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.)

ARE DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A BRICK

WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED.

 

============

:DETONATION:

============

 

1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT

   SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR.

 

2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN

   ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH

   IT, IT WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT.

   A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH

   IT ALSO. IF THIS METHOD IS USED,

   SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.



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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

  How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin.

  Brought to you by:Heracles (B.O.U.)

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

CH2ONO2

!                    3/2 N2 + 3 CO2

CHONO2  ---------->     +

!        Ignition    5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2

CH2ONO2

 

(How Nitro explodes--note that the

byproducts are nothing but nitrogen,

carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

     Nitroglycerin [heretofore

Nitro] is a very powerful high-

explosive.  I am not sure who

invented it but he probably didn't--

the first person to make it

probably blew himself up and his

freind got the info off his notes.

Well anyway, the next best thing to

Nitro is TNT which is ten times

harder to make but also ten times

safer to make.  If you can't use

common sense then dont even TRY

to make this stuff--a few drops can

blow off your hand in the right

circumstances.

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

     To make Nitro:

     == ==== ======

 

     Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid

(for best results it should have a

specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume')

with 200 parts sulphuric acid.  This

is going to be HOT at first--it won't

splatter if you pour the nitric INTO

the sulphuric but don't try it the

other way around.  The acid solutions

together can disolve flesh in a matter

of seconds so take the proper measures

for God's sake!!!  When cool, add 38

parts glycerine as slowly as possible.

Let it trickle down the sides of the

container into the acids or it won't

mix thourily and the reaction could

go to fast--which causes enough heat

to ignite the stuff.  Stir with a

**GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so

then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times

it's *VOLUME* of water.  It will

visibly precipitate immediatly. there

will be twice as much Nitro as you

used glycerin and it is easy to

separate.  Mix it with baking soda

as soon as you have separated it--

this helps it not to go off

spontainously.

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

NOTES:  Parts are by weight nd he

Baume' scale of spicific gravity can

be found in most chem. books.  You

can get fuming nitric and sulfuric

acids wherever good chemicals or

fertilizers are sold.  It is

positivly *STUPID* to make more

than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.

When mixing the stuff wear goggles,

gloves, etc.  When I first made

the stuff I had the honor of having

it go off by itself (I added too

much glycerine at a time.)  I was

across the room at the time, but

I felt the impact--so did the table

it was on as well as the window it

was next to--they were both smashed

by only 25 grams in an open bowl.

Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at

any pharmacy and you need an adult

signature for the acids.  Any bump

can make Nitro go off if you don't

add the bicarbonate of (baking)

soda--but even with that, if it

gets old I wouldn't play catch with

it.

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

     Once you have made the Nitro and

saturated it with Bicarb. you can make

a really powerful explosive that won't

go off by itself by simply mixing it

with as much cotton as you can and

then saturating that with molten

(but as cool as possible, of course)

parifine--just enough to make it

sealed and hard.  Typically, use the

same amounts (by weight) of each

Nitro, cotton and parifine.  This,

when wrapped in newspaper, was once

known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent

Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.







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</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



         Improvised Explosives



  Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze



</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



Written by: The Lich



 This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique

explosive

exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C..

Antifreeze is easier

to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be

freed of water

before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with

calcium chlor-

ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20

deg. C. is

obtained. This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the

antifreeze and

checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride

until the

proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to

remove the

calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to

nitro-gelatin

in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into

the explosive

and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It

is superior

in that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the

nitroethelene

glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as

the nitro-

gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if

caught on fire

the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation.

In this

explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium

carbonate is a good

idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the

final explos-

ive. The following is a slightly different formula than

nitro-gelatine:



Nitro-glycol            75%

Guncotton (IMR)          6%

Potassium Nitrate       14%

Flour (baking)           5%



 In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium

nitrate with the

nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as

sensitive to shock as

is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium

carbonate.

Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is

uniform. This

kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be

uniform when

the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to

uniformity. Use

this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store

in a cool, dry

place (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800

m/sec.. These

two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6

blasting cap

or equivelent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be

made unless the

manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The

foolish and ignor-

ant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get

to use them.

Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for

years with an

amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have

been made and

used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with

very few mis-

haps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main

victims are the

stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take

a drop of

nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and

place it on an

anvil. Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the

anvil. See

what I mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly.

If there are

any doubts DON'T.



</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



         Improvised Explosives



    Plastique Explosive from Aspirin



</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



Written by: The Lich



 This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive

compounds

made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or

handled and absor-

bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's

its use due to

the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney

failure and

sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.



 This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than

it's cousin. It

is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as

an artillery

shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar

but thanx to

modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in

approximately three

hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).



 This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in

warm sulfuric

acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the

purified aspirin

and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the

final pro-

duct. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be

taken to ensure

that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid

will form dang-

erous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and

aluminum. These

salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also

will cause the

detonation of the picric acid.



 To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work

best but

buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine

consistancy.

To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this

powder in

methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will

dissolve. Filter

this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was

filtered out of

the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the

first extrac-

tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol.

Combine the now

clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the

alcohol has

evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the

bottom of the

pyrex dish.



 Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid

crystals and dissolve

them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and

heat to diss-

olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common

electric frying

pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good

cooking oil.

When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take

the beaker, that

you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil

bath. This next

step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it

is a good

idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any

procedure on

this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding

58 g. of

sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture

in the beaker

very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas

(nitrogen tri-

oxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is

likely to

foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes

down to

prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the

sodium or

potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool

somewhat (30-

40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice

it's volume

of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form

in the water.

These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling

distilled water.

This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then

filtered out of

the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol.

These crystals

are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and

heated to 80 deg.

C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best

maintained and checked

with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small

quantities to a

face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed

with 10% by

weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting

temperature and poured

into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together

with gloved

hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of

0-40 deg. C.. The

detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to

handle but

simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most

demolition work

requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very

suitable for

shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good

an explosive

as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to

make. Again

this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great

care. AVOID

HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE

OF INGESTION.

AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE

RETIRE THEM FROM

THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.

THIS EXPLOSIVE,

IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY

HOMEMADE

EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE

UP AS NEEDED.

A V O I D   C O N T A C T   W I T H   A L L   M E T A L S   E X E

P T   T I N







[ Selection ] : 27

</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



         Improvised Explosives



    Plastique Explosive from Bleach



</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



Written by: The Lich



 This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive

and explo-

sives of similar composition were used in World War II as the

main explosive

filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French,

German, and other

forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are

relatively safe to

manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are

free of

sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these

compounds result in

mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly

decompose ex-

plosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive

from bleach is

given as just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing

potassium

chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to

boil the sol-

ution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This

procedure does

work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free

product. These

explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for

instigating

detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25%

sodium

hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate stove

etc.) a battery

hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh

chemicals),

and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one

gallon of

bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While

this solution

heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this to the

bleach being

heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when

checked by a

hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it

should read

full charge).



 When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the

refrigerator

until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the

crystals that

have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads

1.3 on the

hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals

that have

formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as

before. Filter and

save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and

mix them with

distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.

distilled

water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.

Filter the

solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The

process if purifi-

cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should

be relatively

pure potassium chlorate.



 Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and

heat gently to

drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts

wax. Dissolve

this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid

on 90 parts

potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a

plastic bowl.

Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately

mixed. Allow

all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool,

dry place. Avoid

friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. This

explosive is best

molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in

wax to water

proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation

velocity. This

explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge

applications due to its

relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40%

ammonia dynamite

and can be considered the same for the sake of charge

computation. If the

potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the

manufacture pro-

cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the

wax/vaseline mix-

ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of

2-3% aluminum

powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300

m/sec..







[ Selection ] : 28

</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



         Improvised Explosives



       Plastique Explosives From

   Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound



</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>



Written by: The Lich



 This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method

of production

of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure

product than

does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this

reaction the H.T.H.

(calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with

either sodium

chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt

substitute). The

latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy

crystalization of

the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to

ensure complete

reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool

chlorination

compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As

with the bleach

process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a

dissociation

reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place

1200g. H.T.H.

and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough

boiling water

to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance

(calcium

chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky

substance is no

longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If

potassium chloride

was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium

chlorate will drop

out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools.

These

crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room

temperature. If the

sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid

after filter-

ation) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave

crystals which

should be saved.



 These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a

pyrex dish to

drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are

ground to a

very fine powder (400 mesh).



 If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the

crystalization is

much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to

use as the

resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it

cools. The powdered

and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with

vaseline in a

plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO

FRICTION AND SHOCK

AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this

explosive it

will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation

velocity. This

explosive is composed of the following:



   potassium/sodium chlorate    90%

   vaseline                     10%



 The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the

addition of

2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition

of this

aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at

night which will

ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of

this explosive

is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900

m/sec. for the

sodium salt based explosive.







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5

 

    [SPACE ABORTS / <^S> FREEZES]

 

 

 

 

 

***************************************

*                                     *

*  Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even  *

*                                     *

*          By George Hayduke          *

*                                     *

*     subtitled: Fun Things To Do     *

*                                     *

*                                     *

*         Written by The Ghost        *

*                                     *

*****************02/21/85**************

SPEED DEMON    415/522-3074    24 HOURS

***************************************

This isn't a death and Destruction file. I'm not telling losers how to cause

thermite reactions in chemistry class or make neeto pipe bombs to blow up that

guy who keeps bugging you.

This is from a book by George Hayduke.  It describes a variety of ways to get

back at people who cause you distress.  The book has contains a lot of tips on

causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones. Ones that

don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you enjoy.

Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and phreaking.

***************************************

In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the

distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and

Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.

Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of

smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers.

If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things can

happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed.

It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you. OR

anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty hunters

just waiting to claim their reward.

Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be

physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits.  This is for 

anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before

the normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time

to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other and

your loser.

Run an ad in the local paper with the following message.

"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay

$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $

and print the ad without thinking.

If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out that

somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call the cops

telling them of a real rowdy party going on.

If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out course

withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably won't check.

The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are posted. 

"Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?"

Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your

losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will

follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This will

work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes.

Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that you

just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser)

If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For bigots,

Dial A Black, etc.

If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order everything

you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during dinner hours.

Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of mustard. Then the

next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint.

Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other

combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.

Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.

Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else.

 

There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone.

Call in a bomb threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook.

Of course, do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.

Call Ma Bell, and report that your loser is using Blue Boxes. Tell them it is 

your civic duty... Don't do this to someone who knows what they are though.

The phone co doesn't believe in innocence. 

Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans to a

device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records.

If you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good.

Place a large magnet where the line comes in. When one phone rings, they all do

If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is 

modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then

its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"

Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a business.

The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start screaming.

Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence.

Then, at night, it glows.

Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a spark

plug in a car. They'll never find it.

If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a stamp

flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money.

If you dislike a pet hater, here's one.

Advertise that you(the loser) wuold like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for

each one. Then call the SPCA, telling them that the loser wants the animals to

conduct black masses and pagan rites.

Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders.

Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call him

up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging

around the yard....

Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you(the loser)

would like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.

PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,

look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of.

Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer the

questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then give

the losers phone number to call for more info.

Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from cool.

(as long as it's not too hot)

Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key words

trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun

 

***************************************

Ok, I guess that's then end of the good ones. I left all the destructive ones

 

SELECT *> 



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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

   How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin.

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

CH2ONO2

!                    3/2 N2 + 3 CO2

CHONO2  ---------->     +

!        Ignition    5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2

CH2ONO2

 

(How Nitro explodes--note that the

byproducts are nothing but nitrogen,

carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

     Nitroglycerin [heretofore

Nitro] is a very powerful high-

explosive.  I am not sure who

invented it but he probably didn't--

the first person to make it

probably blew himself up and his

freind got the info off his notes.

Well anyway, the next best thing to

Nitro is TNT which is ten times

harder to make but also ten times

safer to make.  If you can't use

nse then dont even TRY

to make this stuff--a few drops can

bbcircumstances.

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

     To make Nitro:

     == ==== ======

 

     Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid

(for best results it should have a

specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume')

with 200 parts sulphuric acid.  This

is going to be HOT at first--it won't

splatter if you pour the nitric INTO

the sulphuric but don't try it the

other way around.  The acid solutions

together can disolve flesh in a matter

of seconds so take the proper measures

for God's sake!!!  When cool, add 38

parts glycerine as slowly as possible.

Let it trickle down the sides of the

container into the acids or it won't

mix thourily and the reaction could

go to fast--which causes enough heat

to ignite the stuff.  Stir with a

**GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so

then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times

it's *VOLUME* of water.  It will

visibly precipitate immediatly. there

will be twice as much Nitro as you

used glycerin and it is easy to

separate.  Mix it with baking soda

as soon as you have separated it--

this helps it not to go off

spontainously.

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

  NOTES:  Parts are by weight and the

Baume' scale of spicific gravity can

be found in most chem. books.  You

can get fuming nitric and sulfuric

acids wherever good chemicals or

fertilizers are sold.  It is

positivly *STUPID* to make more

than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.

When mixing the stuff wear goggles,

gloves, etc.  When I first made

the stuff I had the honor of having

it go off by itself (I added too

much glycerine at a time.)  I was

across the room at the time, but

I felt the impact--so did the table

it was on as well as the window it

was next to--they were both smashed

by only 25 grams in an open bowl.

Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at

any pharmacy and you need an adult

signature for the acids.  Any bump

can make Nitro go off if you don't

add the bicarbonate of (baking)

soda--but even with that, if it

gets old I wouldn't play catch with

it.

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

     Once you have made the Nitro and

saturated it with Bicarb. you can make

a really powerful explosive that won't

go off by itself by simply mixing it

with as much cotton as you can and

then saturating that with molten

((parifine--just enough to make it

sealed and hard.  Typically, use the

same amounts (by weight) of each

Nitro, cotton and parifine.  This,

when wrapped in newspaper, was once

known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent

Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.

 

            Presented by:

   -=* M I N E S  of  M O R I A *=-

           318 - 988 - 4038

 

       THE 1200 BAUD CONNECTION



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                      Mercury Distrubriting Presents...



(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)

                              Car Thrashing

     Written by:              ~~~ ~~~~~~~~~                         Call:

     Mr. "Budman" Zeek                                   (503) 253 - 5300

(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)



     There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under

    2 topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long

    as your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.



     The following are type 1 tricks to pull of on someones car.



Sweet-Gas:  This involves taking the gas cap off of you victums car. If it

---------  is a locking cap break it off. Or you might pry it off, resort to

 "Jocky Boxin" by Mr. Zeek if un fimiler with these tecniqes. Once you have

 the gas cap off pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now

 when the start there car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so

 then the car will crap out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed.



Sweet-Oil:   In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in there oil

---------  spout. if yu have time you might remover the oil plug first and

  drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the

  effects but I am sure that I did some damage.



Slow Air:   Ok, sneak yp the victums car and poke a small hole some where

--------  in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is

  small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You

  could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a rasor blade.

  Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the

  rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a

  possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky.



Vanishing Paint:   Spead a little gas or paint thiner on the victums car

---------------  and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodca will eat

  the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on pain if they

  sit there long enough.



Key Paint:   Run you car keys/can opener along there car and scrach a long

---------  strip off. It'll really piss 'em off and everyone can see it.



All-Lock:   You go up to the dudes car, right. And then super glue the

--------   the door lock and door handle where the car can't be opened.



Loose Wheel:   Losen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon

-----------   fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruzing

when the tire falls off.





Ok, thats some of the begginer shit...now if your really out to get this dude

try some of these....



 First, pause and take a bong hit...........





  No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engin, pour some

sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out

of the cylinder.



Dual Nutral:  This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have

-----------  there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now

  throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace

  the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears.



Un-Midaser:  Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts 

----------  on there exauset so that it hangs low and will fall off soon.

  They will be in town and there exaust will fall off. This method also

  works on tranys but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the

  harder you work the more you fuck them over.



Draino Bomb:   (Idea from Baby Demon) Get a little plasistc orange thingy

-----------   that you get from you local drugest. And fill this with liquid

draino. Now re-cap and place inside vicuum gas tank. When the gs easts

through the plasic...look out. this has not been tried by anyone that I

personly know. But what the well, your a terrorists



(*-> Another way is to get a ping-pong ball and cut a small hole in it, now

  fill the ball up with liquid dranio and seal the hold with tape. Now drop

  the ball in someone gas tank and n about 40secs...BOOM!





 

(*->   Well, for all you hard working terriorsts, this BUD is for you.    <-*)



(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)

     Mr. "Budman" Zeek the founder of "Hi-Tec Terriorsts" and a member of

     "Portland Apple Corps". I can be reached on almost any 503 board....

(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)

        (503) 253 - 5300   /   (503) 684 - 0899   /   (503) 638 - 9481

(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)





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---------------------------------------

[SAFEHOUSE: 612/724-7066 - SPACE QUITS]

 

HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS.

UPLOADED BY THE GRAY MOUSER.....

 

1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU

THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT

THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END.

 

2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN

THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE

SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR

HAND OFF**

 

3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE

PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM

WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED.

 

4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE

BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW

EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE

OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT.

**BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T

KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!!

 

5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE PIPE 

THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT

AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING

SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE 

CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!!

 

******IMPORTANT******

 

AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!!

TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS FOR

IT TO GO OFF, SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME!

 

I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT ME

THIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR THE NAVY.

 

THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT BLEW ALL FOUR WALLS OUT!! THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED IT INTO AN OLD CAR. AND IT PHUKING BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE ROOF THREE FEET INTO THE AIR!!!!

 

WHEN WE BLEW UP THE HOUSE, WE WAITED FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT IT

WOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!!

JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH!

 

IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET HURT.

 

   I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER. AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!!

 

 

 

        THE GRAY MOUSER

           ^___^

            * *

             ^

          --\ /--

             "

 

SOON TO COME FROM THE MOUSER, HOW TO MAKE NAPALM!! PLUS A DETONATOR TO SET THE STUFF OFF!!

 

 

---------------------------------------



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A quickie bomb, stolen from MacGyver

------------------------------------

 Typed, Uploaded, and Translated by

       (_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_)

\__________________________________/



Ok. Heres a really simple bomb that you

can make from things you've probably go

t lying around the house... What you ne

eed:



A bag of fertilizer

Some Cotton

Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind)

Some Newspaper



Ok... You fold the newspaper until its

in sort of a pocket shape, then fill it

up with fertilizer (not too much).. Nex

t, you put cotton on top of the fertili

zer. Then, pour some starter fluid on i

t (the fertilizer), wrap up the newspap

er (you can use tape). Now this isnt th

e kind of bomb you leave lying around

for a couple days, as it drys out. When

you want to use it, just light the edge

of the newspaper and throw it. Pretty

simple, eh? 

Have Phun, and don't get caught!

--------------------------------

P.s. I never noticed before, but all

the formulas, etc. that the dude on

macgyver uses are real, (i checked

quite a few of em). 

--------------------------------

(c) 1986 The J-Men

------------------||||||||||||||



'DONE'



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  )------------------------------------(  (   How To Make Mercury Fulminate    )  )   -----------------------------    (  (   Written by The Lockpic &         )  )                       The Blitz    (  (####################################)  /           

H

ang Ten 1986            /  /------------------------------------/



When employing the use of any high explosive,an individual must also use some kind of detonating device.Blasting caps are probably the most popular today,since they are very functional and relativly stable.The prime ingrediant in most blasting caps and d

e

tonating devices in general is mercury fulminate.There are several methods for preparing mercury fulminate.



Method No.1 for the preparation of

      Mercury Fulminate:



1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix is with 35 ml. of nitric acid.



2.The mixture is slowly and gentle heated.As soon as the solution bubbles and turns green, one knows that the silver mercury is dissolved.



3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured,slowly,into a small flask of ethyl alcohol.This will result in red fumes.



4. After a half hour or so,the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the process is nearing its final stage.



5. after a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution.



6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white crystals.These crystals are pure mercury fulminate,but should be washed many times, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining undersiable acid.





  Method No. 2 for the preparation of

   Mercury Fulminate:



1. Mix one part mercuric oxide with ten parts ammonia solution.When ratios are described,they are always done according to weight rather than volume.



2. After waiting eight to ten days,one will see that the mercuric oxide has reacted with the ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals.



3. These crystals must be handled in the same way as the first method described, in that they must be washed many times and given several litmus paper tests.



 







    Many other fulminates can be made in the same manner as above,but i will not go into these,since most are extremely unstable and sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are sensitive to shock and friction,and in no circumstances

 

should they be handled in a rough or careless manner..

----------------------------------------

    Call these Commodore X-changes



The headquarters    (817)430-8239

T.A.R.G.E.T.        (817)295-9228

Pirates Exchange    (214)446-2219

========================================Hang Ten 1986

able and sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are sensitive to shock and friction,and in no circumstances 



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-------------------------------

[CTRL-S PAUSES/SPACE=QUIT]



)





+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+

$                                                                             $

+                     SOME INTERESTING WAYS TO                                +

$                     KILL A FRIEND (OR ENEMY)                                $

+                                                                             +

$                               BY                                            $

+                        -=> THE GREMLIN <=-                                  +

$                                                                             $

+$+$)$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+





HI, IT'S ME, THE GREMLIN AGAIN.  THIS TIME, I DECIDED TO WRITE ABOUT SOME

COOL WAYS TO KILL SOMEBODY YOU DON'T LIKE, AND HAVE A GOOD TIME LAUGHING

WHILE YOU DO IT.



..IF HEE RACES BMX, STRING A 60 POUND TEST LINE ACROSS A JUMP OR IN THE

MIDDLE OF THE TRACK...



..STAPLE HIS MOUTH TO THE TAIL-PIPE OF YOUR BMW, AND PUT A PIECE OF TAPE

ACROSS HIS NOSE, THEN DRIVE ABOUT 20 MILES AT TOP-SPEED, BY THIS TIME, HIS

MOUTH SHOULD BE ENMESHED WITH THE TAIL-PIPE, HIS KNUCKLES, KNEES, AND FEET

WILL BE PRACTICALLY NON-EXISTENT FROM DRAGGING ON THE GROUND, AND HE'LL BE

QUITE DEAD FROM INHALING ALL THAT CARBON MONOXIDE...



..MAKE CONCRETE BLOCKS OUT OF HIS HANDS, THEN HANG HIM FROM A BRIDGE ACROSS

A NOT TOO WELL TRAVELLED ROAD, BY HIS FEET.  SET HIM SWINGING, AND WAIT FOR

THE NEXT TRUCK OR VAN...



..HANG HIM SPREAD-EAGLE OFF A DIVING BOARD, WITH A WEIGHT TIED AROUND HIS

STOMACH.  IF THE BOARD IS LOW ENOUGH, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO BOUNCE UP AND

DOWN ON THE BOARD, AND WATCH HIM DROWN SLOWLY...



..TIE A ROPE AROUND HIS NECK STRAIGHT UP TO THE TOP OF A SAIL ON A SAIL-

BOAT, AND STRAP HIS FEET TO THE FLOOR, STRAIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOAT.

EVERY TIME THE SAIL COMES AROUND, IT SHOULD HIT HIM QUITE HARD IN THE HEAD.

I RECOMMEND THIS ONLY FOR VERY WINDY DAYS...



..USE HIM AS A MARKER IN A GIANT SLALOM SKI RACE...



..SLIDE RAZOR BLADES ACROSS HIS BACK FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES, THEN GIVE HIM

THE CHOICE OF SHOOTING HIMSELF IN THE HEAD, OR BEING THROWN IN A BATH-TUB

FULL OF GIN...



..TIE HIM UP SPREAD EAGLE IN FRONT OF A PITCHING MACHINE, IN SUCH A WAY

THAT THE TIP OF HIS NOSE IS ABOUT 2 INCHES AWAY FROM THE BARELL...



..TIE HIM UP, AND HANDCUFF HIM.  THEN PUT HIS FINGERS IN BETWEEN THE TYPE-

HEAD OF AN OLD-FASHIONED TYPEWRITER, AND THE PAPER.  YOU MIGHT LIKE TYPING

OUT YOUR OPINIONS OF HIM, WHILE HE SUFFERS...



..TAKE A PAIR OF HANDCUFFS AND PUT THEM ON HIS FEET.  THEN STRAP A ROPE

BETWEEN THEM, SO YOU HOLD ON TO THE ROPE.  GO ON SPACE MOUNTAIN IN DISNEY-

LAND, AND DRAG HIM OFF THE BACK.  IF YOU GET TIRED OR SCARED, JUST LET GO,

IT'S ONLY 80 OR 90 FEET DOWN TO THE CONCRETE...



..STEAL ALL THE JACKS AT THE INDY 500, AND USE HIM AS A REPLACEMENT...



..IF HE HAPPENS TO BE A SADIST, PLUCK OFF HIS ARMS AND LEGS, JUST AS HE

PROBABLY DID TO FLIES...



..STRING UP HIS LOCKER, SO THAT WHEN HE OPENS IT UP, A MOUSE TRAP SNAPS

OUT AND GRABS HIM BY THE YOU-KNOW-WHAT...



..BURY HIM STANDING UP 8 FEET DEEP IN SAND, THEN MAKE A WIDER AREA AROUND

HIS HEAD ABOUT 2 FEET DEEP.  PRY HIS EYES OPEN WITH SOMETHING (PREFERABLY

INFECTIOUS) AND POUR IN SALT.  THEN LET IN SIX RATS, AND WATCH THEM GOUGE

OUT HIS EYES FOR FOOD...



..TIE RUBBER-BANDS AROUND HIS ANKLES (REALLY STRONG AND LONG ONES MUST BE

USED FOR THIS, ABOUT 10 FEET LONG) AND GO UP ON TOP OF A HIGH DIVE, THAT

IS SHORTER THAN THE SOMEWHAT EXTENDED LENGTH OF THE RUBBER-BANDS.  USE

HIM AS A YO-YO...



..STRING HIM OUT ACROSS THE TRACK AT THE NEXT SUMMER OLYMPICS RIGHT BEFORE

THE MENS 100 METER DASH, IN PLACE OF THE RIBBON...



..GET ALL DRESSED UP IN A RADIATION SUIT, AND DRIVE OUT TO THREE MILE

ISLAND OR SOME OTHER NUCLEAR TEST THAT FAILED ITS' SAFETY TEST.  FIND A HUGE

VAT OF ANYTHING THAT LOOKS DANGEROUS, IS BOILING, OR IS MADE OF A COLOR

NATURE NEVER KNEW EXISTED.  THEN GRAB HIM BY THE ANKLES (LIKE ACHILLES'

MOTHER DID) AND DUNK HIM IN IT FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES...



I JUST RAN OUT OF IDEAS.  IF YOU GOT OFFENDED BY THIS TOUGH SHIT IT'S A JOKE

AND IF YOU DON'T THINK IT'S FUNNY THEN SCREW YOU.  IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE

IDEAS, LEAVE ME MAIL.



-=>     -=6     -=>     -=> THE GREMLIN <=-

>      >  PPPM_PPPPPPdSs MEMBER OF <

>     >      >      >     ><U><F> <O><P><

                     UNITED FEDERATION OF PIRATES

      

                         CRYSTAL  CAVERNS

                     9 1 4 - 5 2 8 - 0 1 0 4



(>

NO SUCH FILE



(>

EE                            [ / ]

[ \ ]                            VOLUME II                              [ \ ]

[ / ]                                                                   [ / ]

[ \ ]                         BY  THE GREMLIN                           [ \ ]

[ / ]                           <U><F><O><P>                            [ / ]

[ \ ]                        UNITED FEDERATION                          [ \ ]

[ / ]                            OF PIRATES                             [ / ]

[ \ ]                  `                                                [ \ ]

[ / ]   CRYSTAL CAVERNS................................914/528-0104     [ / ]

[ \ ]   THE CRYPT OF CHAOS.............................213-394-2781     [ \ ]

[ / ]   THIEVES WORLD..................................213-470-8152     [ / ]

[ \ ]                                                                   [ \ ]

[ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ]



OK... YOU GUYS MUST BE PRETTY SICK, CAUSE A LOT OF YOU LIKE THAT FIRST ONE, SO

AS I PROMISED, HERE'S ANOTHER...

..GIVE HIM A FRONT ROW VIEW OF THE LAUNCHING OF THE SPACE SHUTTLE, FROM RIGHT

UNDER THE LAUNCHING PAD...



..WHEN TOAST GETS STUCK IN THE TOASTER, USE A FEW OF HIS FINGERS TO GET IT OUT(

THIS WOULD WORK BETTER IF IT WERE LEFT PLUGGED IN AND ON HI TEMPERATURE)



..FLY OVER THE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING IN A HELICOPTER.  TIE A 3/8 INCH ROPE

AROUND HIS ANKLE, AND HOLD HIM SO THAT HIS EYE IS STRAIT ABOVE THE RADIO

ANTENNA.  TELL HIM HE CAN COME BACK IN IF THE ROPE HOLDS FOR AT LEAST 2 HOURS.

THEN LIGHT UP A CIGARETTE, AND USE THE ROPE TO GET THE ASHES OFF ( THE RO



---------------------------------------



ENTER (1-10, M=MENU, Q=QUIT) : 



PLEASE WAIT...OK



(*> TIME OR T.C. IS PRESENT..CHAT MODE <*)



HEY DUDE I NEED THE COMPUTER FOR A REAL

IMPORTANT REASON WHERE DO YOU LIVE?



@tA@`pB    [/] Other Cool BBS/AE/FURS!  [\]









----------------------------------------



The Trading Post BBS.....504-291-4970

The Lighthouse PW/OCEAN..504-291-5690

The Dug-Out Cat-Fur......504-348-2386

Milliways BBS............609-921-1994

Glenview House BBS.......312-724-0807

Terrorist Cove CF3.1.....512-448-0632

T.A.R.D.I.S. CF..........612-452-3299

Great White North........612-489-8657

Demon's Dwelling.........916-381-1197

Swamp Castle CF/BBS......612-452-7967

Hobbit Hold AE/CF/BBS....619-262-1207

Pirates Palace......n....504-863-6105

Anarchist AE pw/WARE.....504-891-8674

Triple Jump AE/FUR.......604-936-5966

Unknown..................614-861-3948

Unknown..................504-454-6461

Vulcan Logic Systems..CF.907-561-0656



If you have a board up and would like to

be listed here, leave Feedback to

Blue Max with Name, Number and Status,

and also include whether AE or CF or 

just BBS and info on it.  Later..





----------------------------------------





List taken from : The Pitstop!





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                               ==Phrack Inc.==



                    Volume One, Issue 7, Phile #6 of 10



                  XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX

                  Xx                                   xX

                  Xx         American Dynamite         xX

                  Xx                                   xX

                  Xx           By The Rocker           xX

                  Xx                of                 xX

                  Xx        Metallibashers Inc.        xX

                  Xx                                   xX

                  Xx      for: ==Phrack Inc.==         xX

                  Xx                                   xX

                  XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX



Recipe:



Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid.  The acid made of 2 parts of 70%

nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric.  Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for

30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it

with 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts pure

sulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.

Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min.  The dinitrotoluene is separated and

mix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric

with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid.  Heat at

95 degrees for 60 min.  Then at 120 degrees for 90 min.



Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the

powder by soaking it in benzyne.



                           Presto!  American Dynamite!



Thanx to S.A. for the idea!   Thanx to Phrack Inc. for just being a sponsor!



Don't forget to call these systems after you obliterate someone's house with

that T.N.T...

                   =======================================

                   Speed Demon Elite..........415/522-3074

                   High Times.................307-362-1736

                   Metalland South............404-576-5166

                   Brainstorm Elite...........612-345-2815

                   Atlantis...................215-844-8836

                   =======================================



Metallizing,

    The Rocker/MBI



(>

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  %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

  %%                                                                        %%

  %%                      ============================                      %%

  %%                      How to Make Ammonium Nitrate                      %%

  %%                      ============================                      %%

  %%                                                                        %%

  %%          A file from THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by: Kurt Saxon          %%

  %%                                                                        %%

  %%                             Plagerized by:                             %%

  %%                       --==**>>THE REFLEX<<**==--                       %%

  %%                       [Member: Omnipotent, Inc.]                       %%

  %%                                                                        %%

  %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%



Disclaimer:  I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damages

=-=-=-=-=-=  caused by information obtained from this text-file.  As a matter

             of fact, I'll let you sue me and I'll pay.  All you have to do is

             tell your lawyer, "It's all THE REFLEX's fault."  I'll see you

             when you get out of the institution.





    Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate.  This

can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag.  It is fertilizer.



     Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second.  It is

roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.



     The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of

one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate.  This has to be detonated

with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy.  Try to find

another file about that crap.].



     Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap.

The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade

can be purified with distilled wood alcohol.



     Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan.  Pour in

enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer.  Then stir it until a

lot of it has dissolved.  Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the

impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate.



     Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step.  Dry ice

can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice."  Locker

companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts.



     The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan.  This is done

carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate

behind.



     The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the

solution in crystals.  When no more crystals are formed they are removed from

the alcohol.



     The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve

any ammonium nitrate left undissolved.  After setting a few minutes the

solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away.  When the

last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused.



     The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless

unless they are enough to replace the air.  Don't handle the dry ice with your

bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold

will cause blisters.



     In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it

must be very dry.  Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun.  When

completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



     You got here on just the right day!  For a limited time only, we will be

offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file.  That's right!  Two

files for the price of one!  And only from Omnipotent!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



     So you don't know what to do with your ammonium nitrate once you've made

it.  You're saying to yourself, "Great!  Now I have a chemical that is supposed

to blow things up, but I don't want to destroy anything [ahem?]."  Well...



                              LAUGHING GAS

                              =-=-=-=-=-=-

                               [snicker!]



     As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium

nitrate has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to

make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate.



     Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics.  After a little while

of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't

keep from laughing.  Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.



     Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas.  This is

because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were

inside.  They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.



     The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of

the gas.  Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag

under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime.  Then, Whee!



     To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply

house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.



     First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water.  Then you

evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy

brine.  When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a

drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.



     When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface.  After a while, break

it up and store it in a bottle.



     A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube

leading into a big plastic bag.  The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.



     When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate.  If

white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.



     When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



     Well, there you have two files in one.  No need to thank us.  Just send

all "donations" to...  [In this business, a since of humor is necessary!]



Until the next one...THE REFLEX signing off as I am getting tired.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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# 2 "AFPO"

    By RIPPER (UID# 25)

    On Sun Sep 21, 1986  4:31 PM

    Lr Sun Jan 11, 1987  9:01 PM

    -- 8 Responses total --



I changed my mind, I'll post how to

make AFPO first. AFPO is the most

commonly manufactured blasting agent

in the world today, it far surpasses

dynamite. HERES HOW TO MAKE IT;



NEEDED;



Amononium Hydroxide (again)



Fuel Oil(s)(white gasoline works)



Gelitin(no, NOT FLAVORED!)



Mix the AH with the FUEL OIL, until

very thoughly mixed in to a thin

liquid, then add the GELITIN, yes,

this is a gel explosive, until you

feel it's the right thickness for

your work, you can get it thick

enough to be solid, use waterproof

fuses, with a little NI3 at the end

to make sure the stuff goes off with

a good boom, THIS IS A VERY STABLE

EXPLOSIVE, IT IS ALSO 3 TIMES MORE

POWERFUL THAN DYNAMITE.  A thin wire

with high voltage running through it

in the gel makes a good detonater too.



Post any of your "ANARCHISTIC TOOLS"

here, also, is there anything that

relates to anarchy that anyone would

like to see how it's done, or how to 

make it?  Just send mail to 25.



        HAVE FUN!!!!!!



                  >>>>RIPPER<<<<

---------------------------------------





    By RIPPER (UID# 25)

    On Tue Sep 16, 1986  3:18 PM

    Lr Thu Dec  4, 1986 11:31 PM

    -- 19 Responses total --







   Have you ever heard of the 

millitary high power explosive, NI3?

It's 4 to 6 time MORE POWERFUL than 

dynamite, and, HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT!



needed:



 IODINE CRYSTALS



AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE



Put the AH in a GLASS bowl, and 

disolve the Iodine in it, in a couple 

of minutes, new crystals will form, 

They are highly volitile, and illeagal

to have,For what ever it's worth.



      --PRESS RETURN TO CONTINUE--



Do not DROP, CRUSH, HEAT, or FUCK 

with them, take very extream 

percausions with them, pad them in an

air tight bottle.



ONE TEASPOON HAS THE IMPACT POWER OF

ONE M-100 FIRECRACKER.



Use them at your own risk! BUT HAVE 

FUN! MORE SOON! NEXT: LETTER BOMBS!



                  >>>>RIPPER<<<<







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BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE

  TEXT BY,  EL PIRATA'

IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW 

EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE 

RIGHT CHOICE!  FIRST OF ALL, THIS 

RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK 

POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND SAFE MANNER 

YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME 

STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.  



NOTE:  THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD

TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU 

METRIC USERS) OF BLACK POWDER.  

HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE 

AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS ARE 

IMPORTANT.  THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH 

BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES 

USED.



MATERIAL REQUIRED

-----------------

LARGE WOODEN STICK



CLOTH, 2 FT. SQ.



FLAT WINDOW SCREENING, 1 FT. SQ.



HEAT SOURCE



WATER, 3 CUPS              



ALCOHOL, 5 PINTS (ANY KIND)



SULFER, POWDERED, 1/2 CUP (FLOWERS 

OF SULFER, AT A DRUG STORE)



WOOD CHARCOAL, POWDERED, 2 CUPS



POTASSIUM NITRATE, GRANULATD, 3 CUPS 

(SALTPETER, AT DRUG STORES)

2 BUCKETS, BOTH 2 GALLON, ONE MUST 

BE HEAT RESISTANT

.....................................

.....................................

PROCEDURE:                

----------

1.  PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE 

BUCKETS.



2.  PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, 

CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT 

RESISTANT BUCKET.  ADD 1 CUP WATER 

AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK 

UNTIL ALL INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED.

                   

3.  ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO 

MIXTURE.  PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT 

SOURCE AND STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES 

BEGIN TO FORM.



CAUTION:  DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE.  BE 

SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET.  IF ANY 

IS DRY, AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY 

IGNITE.



4.  REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR 

MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING 

VIGOROUSLY.



5.  LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 

5 MINUTES.  STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH 

CLOTH TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER.  

DISCARD LIQUID.  WRAP CLOTH AROUND 

BLACK POWDER AND SQUEEZE TO REMOVE 

ALL EXCESS LIQUID.



6.  PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. 

 PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP 

POWDER ON SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY 

RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN.



NOTE:  IF GRANULATED PARTICLES 

APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE 

SHAPE, RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF 

POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.



7.  SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER 

ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER 

ABOUT 1/2 INCH IS FORMED.  ALLOW TO 

DRY.  USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT 

SUNLIGHT.  THIS SHOULD BE DRIED AS 

SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE 

HOUR.  THE LONGER THE DRYING PERIOD, 

THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.



CAUTION:  REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON 

AS GRANULES ARE DRY.  BLACK POWDER 

IS NOW READY FOR USE!



                  EL PIRATA'

(C) 1984  /  COMPUTER RAT SOFTWARE







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          **********************************************************

        *****                                                    *****

      *****                   EXPEDIENT GRENADES                   *****

      **                             by                               **

      *****                          The Cheshire Cat              *****

        *****                                                    *****

          **********************************************************



          There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture,

       but for the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must

       be constructed of easily available materials, the quality and the

       safety of the grenade is reduced dramatically.  Here I will deal

       with this problem, trying to produce a reasonable type of grenade

       that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily, but

       produces dramatic effects.  I strongly suggest that if you find it

       possible, you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying

       to produce one yourself, but you can be the judge.  As always, I

       want to note that this is all for educational purposes only, and I

       do not recommend anyone trying any of the following for real.



               The first thing you need is explosives.  If you can't get

       black powder, or gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives

       (we know there sure are enough text files floating around to explain

       how to make all of the above!) than you're really in a for making a

       grenade of this type.  You'll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized

       can (probably like an orange juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and a

       fuse or fuze.  As for explosives, mercury fulminate is extremely good

       for this sort of thing.  Maybe I'll write a text file on its prepar-

       ation sometime.  But for now, you could probably get together a ton

       of firecrackers and take out the black powder (if you'r desperate)

       or get a couple quarter sticks from someone (or take a vacation in

       North Carolina).  The explosive goes in the juice can.  Don't pack

       it together too tight.  Loose black powder is better than compressed.

       This is the main explosive.  Cut up the coat hanger into little

       pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill up the coffee can until you

       can put the juice can in and the top of the juice can is level with

       the top of the coffee can.  If you don't have the time, and need to

       fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of

       glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled.

       Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it.  Then fill

       the space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice

       can is relatively stable.  Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in

       the juice can.  Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from.  If necessary,

       secure the juice can or the explosive with some masking tape, ect...

       as long as it doesn't interfere with the action of the grenade.  Take

       the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed.

       You now have a fragmentation grenade.  It might be a good idea to

       practice with a football for a while before trying to destroy the

       neighbor's garage with it.



==============================  That's all folks! ============================

========== Please keep the credits to this the way they are, but feel =======

========== free to distribute it as you wish.  I know you will  ==============

========== anyways, so I guess it doesn't matter.  If anyone finds ===========

========== it necessary to reach me, try OSB systems (215)-395-1291 ==========

========== which is by the way an awesome AE/BBS.  Later, The Cheshire Cat ===

==============================================================================



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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

                                      How

                                      to

                                   Counterfeit

 

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

 

Written by --------------------------> The Wave 

 

     This article deals with how to make counterfeit money.  Before reading 

this article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset 

printing, for that's how you'll have to print it.  For someone who is 

familiar with offset printing, printing money is a breeze.  Real money is made

by a process called gravure.  It involves carving out of a metal block (but I

don't think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's

Incredible!).  When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will 

have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your

printing skills.  Well, let's get started!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works.  It starts

by making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera).

Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material (

usually orange).  Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a  

lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker.  The BURNED plates are then

developed with the proper developer chemical.  These plates (one at a time of

course) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.  The press to use

should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360.  Then

the printing begins!  To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you 

should again get a book on the subject.  The presswork takes some practice, 

but you'll get the hang of it.

 

     Ok, quit babbling on, Wave, and start the good stuff!  By the way you can

pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can 

** BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the 

morning!).  First, like I said before, you need negatives.  Make 2 negatives

of the portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side.  After developing

them and letting them dry, take them to a light table.  Get some opaque and,

on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial

numbers).  Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top

of the flat.  Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal 

and serial numbers.  The back side doesn't require any retouching because it

is all one color.  Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or

REGISTERED, on the flats.  By the way, every time you need another serial 

number, just shoot 1 neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number.

Cut out the old serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one.

 

     Ok, now you have 3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2

shades of green (which of course are made by mixing inks).  Now you are ready

to burn the plates.  Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it.  These

marks must be 2 & 9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges.  Do the

same thing to 2 more plates.  Then take 1 of the flats and place it on the 

plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY!  Burn it,

move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you already burned.

Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat up one mark.  

Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate).  

Develope all 3 plates.  You should have 4 images on each plate with an equal

space between each bill.  

 

                             Roll the Presses!

                             ---- --- -------

 

     The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty 

damn close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!).  The paper to use should

have a 25% rag content.  I have found that Disaperf computer paper works 

great - that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation.  Take this 

paper (cut the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press.  Be sure

to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right.  Start with the black plate

(the one with out the serial numbers).  Wrap it around the cylinder and load

black ink in.  Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a 

lot of rejects.  Then, while that's printing, mix the inks for the serial #'s

and the back side.  You'll need to add some white and maybe yellow to the 

serial # ink.  You need to add black to back side.  Experiment till you get

it right.  Clean the press and print the other side.  Now you have the bill

wioth no green seal or serial numbers.  Print a few with one serial number,

make another and repeat.  Keep doing this until you have as many different 

numbers as you want.  Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter

  Now you have a lot of money, except there is still one problemo - the paper

is pure white.  To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4

 

tea bags, and about 16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment).  Dip

one of the bills in and compare it to a brand new REAL bill.  Make the neces-

sary adjustments, and dye all the bills.  Then it is a good idea to make them

look used.  Wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.  Congratulations!

You're rich!

 

 

     Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man's James Bond, but most from

personal knowledge.  Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live 

and Die in L.A.  It is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of show-

ing how to do it.  Well, that's all folks!

 

Call the Shadowkeep AE------------> (513) 832-1938 AE:TAC

 

 



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                                ==Phrack Inc.==

                     Volume One, Issue Two, Phile #3 of 9



                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

                    @@@@       --] Man-Tooth [--       @@@@

                    @@@@          presents...          @@@@

                    @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@

                    @@@@      -- HOMEMADE GUNS --      @@@@

                    @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@

                    @@@@             from              @@@@

                    @@@@  "The Poor Man's James Bond"  @@@@

                    @@@@         by Kurt Saxon         @@@@

                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

                    :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::







          PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS

          ------------------



              Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have

          been used for years by juvenile punks.  Today's Militants

          make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an

          assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger

          of apprehension.



              They can be used many times but with some, a length of

          dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.



              There are many variations but the illustration shows the

          basic design.



              First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for

          the barrel to rest in.  The barrel is then taped securely to

          the stock with a good, strong tape.



              The trigger is made from galvanized tin.  A slot is

          punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is

          wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and

          nailed to the stock on both sides.



              The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas

          or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet

          keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.



              The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a

          hole bored through it, is screwed on.  Then the trigger is

          slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and

          rest on the primer.



              To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand

          and held back with the thumb of the right hand.  The gun is

          then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing

          actually fires.



              Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in

          any hardware store.  All caliber bullets, from the .22 to

          the .45 are used in such guns.



              Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested

          within each other.  For instance, a .22 shell will fit

          snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line.

          Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the

          pressure of the firing.  So the length of gas line is spread

          with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe.  This is

          spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with

          threads and a cap.



              Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge,

          even a rifle shell.  The first size of pipe for a rifle

          shell accomodates the bullet.  The second accomodates its

          wider powder chamber.



              A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel

          pipe.  If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel

          should be at least eighteen inches long.



              Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol.

          It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened

          into a rifle butt.  Also, a small nail is driven half way

          into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of

          the trigger.  The rubber band is put over one nail and

          brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.



              In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it

          before firing it by hand.  This is done by first tying the

          gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no

          damage.  Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off

          several yards.  The string is then pulled back and let go.

          If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by

          hand.



              You should not attempt to register such a gun.











                          Pipe Cap

                             /

                            /   Bullet     Tape       Pipe

                           /        /      /   \        /

                           v       /      /     \      /

                         !----!   /       v     v      v

               Nail--\  /   /-!---v-----!---!-!---!---------

                      v ---  - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !

                    //---->    ![][]\   !   ! !   !        !

                   ^  ! !--\   ![][]/   !   ! !   !        !

              Wire/   ! !   \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !

          Trigger---> ! ! !---!         !   ! !   !     ::::

                     /! !      /--------!---!-!---!--::::--!

                    / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\

                   !  !-!   /                             \-- Rubber

                   /       /                                    band

                   !       !

                   !      /

                   !      !

                   !      !

                   !      !

                   !------!







                                  Z I P   G U N





                                                       / <---Nail

                                                   !-!/

           /------------------\              /-----!o!-----\

          ! O        O       O !            ! ------------- !

           \--------! !-------/             !!             !!

                    !-!                     !!             !!

                                            !!             !!

                                            !!             !!

          Trigger before bending       /--> !!             !! <--\

                                     Place  !!             !!   Nail

                                     nail                       hole

                                     here



                                                  Trigger





     Uploaded by  (>The Sultan<)  of  [:3rd Dimension:]      1/04/86



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reached, now returning to main level.





Uploaded By: Future Spy

+=--------------------------------------------------------------------------=+

|  Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives | Call: //\\//\\etalland 1       |

|    By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon   |        503/538-0761            |

|-------------------------------------------| /\/\etal\/\/orks 313/663-8103  |

| /\/\illiways 609/921-1994     The /\/\etal AE (1200 only) 201/879-6668     |

|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

| Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book     |

|       'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l              |

+=----------------------==/===%{ Disclaimer }%===\==------------------------+=

Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!

I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes

only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their

fucken school to kingdom scum!



Astrolite

---------



The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant

research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most

powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT.

Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe

in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.



Astrolite G

-----------



"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very

high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for

nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic

is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the

ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained

detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to

rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!



To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)

-------



Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight

'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that

the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,

that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'

hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...



Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold

of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-

zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst,

plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers,

diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with.



Astrolite A/A-1-5

------------------



Ok, here's the good part...



Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with

hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a

detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.



Misc. info

----------



You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens

though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able

to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.





Sodium Chlorate Formulas

------------------------



Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a

substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium

chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in

blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.



Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder

-------------------------



65% sodium chlorate

22% charcoal

13% sulfur

and sprinkle some graphite on top.



Rocket Fuel

-----------



6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.



Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)

----------------------------------



50% sodium chlorate

35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' (tm))

10% epoxy resin hardener

5%  sulfur



You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.



Incendiary Mixture

------------------



55% aluminum powder (atomized)

45% sodium chlorate

5%  sulfur



Impact Mixture

--------------



50% red phosphorus

50% sodium chlorate



Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mix-

ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.



Filler explosive

----------------



85% sodium chlorate

10% vaseline

5% aluminum powder



Nitromethane formulas

---------------------



I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.



Nitromethane (CH3NO2)

specific gravity:1.139

flash point:95f

auto-ignite:785f



Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.



Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats,

      etc.

To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:



1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine

2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline



Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.



Nitromethane 'solid' explosives

-------------------------------



2 parts nitromethane

5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)



soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container.

This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-

glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance.







A few questions:



1) Does anyone know how to make 'knockout gases'?

2) What's on the handkerchief you see people in the movies use to knockout

   people?

3) Does the formula for chloral hydrate in 'Poor Man's James Bond' work?

   Normally chloral hydrate is 1:5, chloral to water..but in PMJB it's 1:2.

   Also, what's the calcium oxide for?



ps- Kurt Saxon doesn't know shit about drugs!







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  ___________________________________________________________________________

 /___________________________________________________________________________\

/ |                                                                         | \

| !                        The Firey Explosive Pen                          ! |

! |                                                                         | !

| !                 Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us                   ! |

\ |_________________________________________________________________________| /

 \___________________________________________________________________________/





Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no thats not a typo)

at skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a friend!



    Materials Needed

    ----------------



        1]   One Ball Point `Click` pen

        2]   Gun Powder

        3]   8 or 10 match heads

        4]   1 Match stick

        5]   a little sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")





      Procedure

      ---------



        1]   Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top

             in the pen.

        2]   Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the

             other little parts and the ink fill was.

        3]   Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the

             clicker.

        4]   Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they

             are on the inside on the sand paper.

        5]   Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the

             pen where the ball point comes out.

        6]   Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The

             paper is to keep the powder from spilling.



The Finished pen should look like this:



   Small Paper Clog      Gun Powder         Matches & Sandpaper

       \                     |                   |

        \                    |                    |

         \  _________________|____________________|________

           <_______________________________|_______________|===

                                                            /

                                                 Clicker   /





     Planting The Device

     -------------------



        There are many ways to use this little device.  Here are a few of my

Favorite way to use this hendy little Anti-Personal-Device



     In School

     ---------



        1]   Replace it with a friends pen, it helps if it is the same color

             Style.  But if you get it there and he/she goes to write, watch

             the sparks fly!

        2]   You know how all these poor nigs are always asking you for a pen

             well this is the way to fix it! just give 'em this little pen and

             I gurantee they will neer ask you for another pen again.

        3]   Replace the teachers pen with it.



     In The Office

     -------------



        No Office experience, unless its the schools office, replace it with

        the principals or receptionist pens. They'll get a `bang` out of it!





[%=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=%]



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/_-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_\

/_                                                                         _\

/_                                                                         _\

/_                     Getting others to Commit Suicide                    _\

/_                                                                         _\

/_                               By The Blade                              _\

/_                                                                         _\

/_                                                                         _\

/-                        A Neon Knight Presentation                       _\

/_                                                                         _\

/_-                 The Metal AE 201 879 666-8  PW-KILL!!!                 _\

/<=-----------------------------------------------------------------------=>\





Ahhh, I haven't written a file in quite a long time...  Being a Senior fuckin

cranks...  Party when ever you want, get laid by fresmen and sophmores,

its just generally fucking great...





Well, lately, there has been many Suicides lately.  A little while ago, here in

beautiful NJ, 4 teenagers said their last rites and started the car up in the

garage.  This brought a smile to my face, you see, the more people dead,

the better off you are in the game of life.   When people our age die, that

means the rest of us have a better chance of getting into the college we want,

cause there is less of them to compeate with.  There are more jobs to have, and

maybe you might find one you like.   There is more food and other material

products, and this keeps the price of everything down.  Its just better for

the whole society.   Who cares about the mourning family, they'll get over it,

as you know who says "another day, another death"...   Death is a fact of life

for everyone, and the more dead, the better.







HOW YOU CAN HELP:

-----------------





Find somebody that looks (as follows) like this:



-Real Ugly, someone who needs to be put out of misery, and so we don't have to

            look at them



-Real Quiet, these people usally have something wrong upstairs, they can't deal

             with other people, they are no good to you anyway.



-Real Stupid, everybody knows someone like this, like IQ of 98, someone who can

              be pursuaded easily into the act.



-Someone with parents that prod them, like high pressure parents, who tell 

         thier kids to do well in everything or die...



(this is the good one)



-Somebody who has tried committing suicide before, cause they are fucked up 

          allready and they are the easist to convince.







CONVINCING THEM:

----------------



Ok, find one of the above and try the first tactic, total harassment.  Just rag

and rag and rag and rag on them, tell them their mother sucks black cock in

hell, send letters saying that they are illegitimate, saying that they are 

drafted into the Marines..  Call them up and tell her mom that she does

Crack and she's pregnant.  Get a guy that looks like a total scumbag biker

with chains and shit and tell her mom that he's ready to pick her up  for

their orgy.   Or if its a guy tell him 'yo maun, i got de stuff, wheres de 

money??"... Just make their total life hell.



OR



Befriend them, get real close to them, tell them you love them, you want to

be with them forever (in hell).  Get close to the parents to, act real nice,

kiss some ass, be a real goody 2 shoes, feel like part of the family.

Then make up some crisis you supposedly had at home, say that your dad is

gonna kick you outa the house if (you dont cut that hair)...sorry...

                                  you dont get a job and pay for everything

you use.  Say that he grounded your for 5732 days and you can't go anywhere.

Then lie to the other kid's parents and tell them something like your

(son) daughter's is hooked on drugs and get her in trouble.  Then at

night tell the other party to meet you somewhere, like on a bridge, anywhere

that you can die easily.  Then make her feel like shit and ask (demand) her

to go in a suicide jump together, go 1-2-3, she jumps you stay where you

are and laugh.





PACTS:

------



Suicide Pacts are the best way to get rid of alot of people at once.  Pacts 

usally consist of 2 to 6 people, (unlike my good friend Jim Jones who wiped out

over 300 with poisoned Kool-Aid), and are usally done in a painless way.

Try to find a bunch of depressed people and tell them to join your little

group that meets twice a week to 'talk' about everyones problems.

Bullshit with them for a week or two, show a few other ways out of depression

(which should'nt work) then tell them (strongly) about a easy way out,

convince them into a SUICIDE PACT.  Probability is that if 2 or 3 agree with

it, the whole group will do it, and that's just dandy!.





PRE-ACT TACTICS:

----------------



Now since this person is never going to be around any more, and if you say

you are going with them, tell the other party to give you all their belongings

so you can 'give it to charity, someone who really needs it'.  Of course all

the goods go to bank account and some good blow.



Also, if you play your cards right, you can take out a life insurance policy

on the person and make 10g's to 1 mil, depending on the company and how

stupid they are.



Or if you forgot about the pre-act tactics just go to the parents and say

'She would want me to have this' (a $2500 pioneer stereo rack system),

a few weeks after the death, and cry when you do it.





WAYS OF SUICIDE:

----------------



The folling is a list of many ways to get the person to commit suicide:



-Carbon Monoxide, as in automobile exhaust, a very painless way to die.  You

just sit in the car, in a garage, and it feels like you are going to sleep.





-A Gun, also another painless way, point the gun at the temple (head), aim

on an angle towards the lower base of the skull, instant DEATH.





-Slitting of the Wrists, very stupid, painful at first, but eventually you go 

into shock.  This way of suicide has the highest failure rate due to people

chickening out, it lasts from 20 mins. to sometimes 3 hrs. not a good way.





-Jumping off a tall building, a good way, because %50 of the people that jump

DIE of fright before hitting the ground.  Somewhat tramatic for the 4 seconds

you are in the air, but more or less, a good way.





-Jumping in front of a Bus, Train, or any Large vehicle, a %75 percent success

rate as long as your head hits againt the oncoming force quickly.  People have

been mangled and lived through it, and you don't want that to happen, you

want to DIE REMEMBER??





-Overdose of Drugs, a somewhat lame way to go depending on the drug...

also you need to take the right amount due to if you take too much, you will

just throw it up and suffer for 24 hrs... not to much, not to little, you can 

determine by the recomened doseage.  Sleeping pills are probably the most 

painless, you just pass out.  Overdoses of drugs such as Acid,LSD,and other

phyco drug is another stupid way to go, and if you live through it you are

a vegetable for the rest of your fucking life.  





Drowning- A bad way to go, due to suffication people who have lived through

a near drowing say "It fucking sucks" to put it in laymens terms, not

suggested.





Hanging- good if you do it right.  In the old west they used a more or less

'painless' way of hanging.  When they released the lever, your neck broke and

usally you couldnt feel anything anyway, and before you knew it, you we DEAD.

A relitivly good and graphic way to go.





Running your car off a cliff- Very stupid unless you have a high cliff or

mountain.  People usally try to pull out at the last second, and end up

paralized for life.  Not recommended.





Electricution- Not bad, as long you have a good current.  Go to your local 

power substation and ground yourself to something, and as soon as you touch

the ends of those big semi-condutors, you're history.







Poison- Same as drugs.





Stabbing yourself- Usally reserved for Sickos, a very painful way to die, and

you watch yourself bleed to death.  Pretty beat way to go.





Drinking yourself to Death-Sounds fun, should try it sometime....but seriously,

probably not a bad way to go, get wasted, and die!  Get grain alcohol, 

199 proof, good shit.





Well, im probably missing like hundreds of more ways, but this file is

just to get you started in the game of life.  Good luck, and keep track

of your results.





:-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-:

:                                                                         :

:    Call these SUICIDAL lines                                            :

:                                                                         :

:    The Metal AE/BBS-10megs-3/1200-all METAL...........201 879 6668      :

:    Metalland West AE/BBS/FUR/T-10 MEGS................503 538 0777      :

:    The Dark Side AE/BBS 35megs-12/2400................408 245 7726      :

:    Speed Demon Private BBS-Private....................415 522 3074      :

:    Upside-Down AE/BBS-20megs-1200only.................201 398 2953      :

:    DL's Data Service AE/BBS...........................305 395 6906      :

:                                                                         :

:_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_:





Of course thanks to:



Killer Kurt, Lustfer Deth, Zandar Zan, The Metallian, Tom Araya, Kerry King,

Jeff Haneman, The Necrophiliac, Kracker, Crack, Blow, The Sisters of SODOM,

Master of Reality, The Rocker, Necular Deth, Bit Butcher, JT, Jolly Rodger,

Bergenfield NJ, The Metal AE for distribution, smoke, All D/T/S/SS METAL,

SLAYER, The Outland, and all members past and present of The Neon Knights.





_._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._.

Written on April 4, 1987.  (C) 1987 by The Neon Knights   All Rights Reserved

Any part of this file may be used in the News Media as long as The Blade and

The Neon (fucking) Knights are given credit.  YOURMOTHERSUCKSCOCKSINHELL!!!!!!

_._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._.









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______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

..............................................................................

                        A DEAD CAT WHISKER PRODUCTION





                   HOW TO BLOW UP A CAR:  A different way



                           by  THE FLYING HERMIT

..............................................................................

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________







     There are times in a man's life when he gets mad at someone.  And then

 there are times when he gets REAL mad at someone.  These are the times for

 vengence.  And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her

 car.  The thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for.

 Yes!!!  This is the item which you must attack, for most of the time, it is

 parked outside, easily accesible at night and very important to the asshole

 you want to annoy.  The method I will describe is relatively easy and safe to

 set up, but very effective in causing damage.  The method of destruction will

 be explosion.  The explosive device is already inside the car, factory

 installed just for you to use.  It is the standard 12 volt car battery.



Let's look at the princleple behind the exploding battery:



you are by now familiar with the theory of how batteries work, and if you

aren't, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of things.

Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive to

negative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that's another

story), but also a small internal resistance.  The resistance inside the

battery is in the order of magnitude of roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small,

it is usually ignored.  But, that is for normal operation of the battery.  The

case we're interrested in is for the closed circuit of the battery by itself.

For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and the

following holds true:





     (voltage) divided by (resistance) equals (current)

  

                          or

 

                        V/R=I



let's calculate



              12volt/.0024 ohm  =   5000 amps



Amazing!!!!!  by causing a short circuit (closed circuit), the battery produces

5000 amps of current running through that little bugger.  However, this

current is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this capacity for long,

so therefore the battery explodes.  It explodes with a rather large force,

causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling lead.  All

these goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the engine will

cause the vehicle to add another member to the big junk yard in the sky.



Great!!  now we know how to make the car blow up, but we don't want to go up

with hte car, so what we need is a triggering device.  one can go from the

simple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as radio

transmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relay

device.



First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive current

without melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with large

currents.  Next, we need a timer which will count down the seconds to our

triuphant vengance.  And finally, a small battery to run the relay (the

small battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are using a digital

timer).



Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the relay, and the

relay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car battery

with the heavy cable.  There you have it!!!!







                                               __________________

      small batt                              /    ____         _|

   _____     _________________         ______/    /  _||________||_

   |    |___|        |     |  \_______/          /  |     CAR      |

   |    |___|     ___|TIMER|___|relay|          /   |   BATTERY    |

   |             /   |     |   |_____|         /    |______________|

   |____________/    |_____|          \_______/







remember,  tinkering with other people's property is a no-no, and officer

friendly might get ugly with you if he sees you doing this, so be forewarned.

Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled improperly,

may explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in your

face, making you look like the elephant man.   so don't come crying to me when

something happens, cause i'll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over you

if you rub me the wrong way.





..............................................................................

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __



 written by the flying hermit      'summer 87'   a dead cat whisker production

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

..............................................................................



call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs'   at  (312) 528-5020





finisthe RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs'   at  (312) 528-5020



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MERCURY BATTERY BOMB!

---------------------

By Phucked Agent!



Materials:



      1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid)

      1 working lamp with on/off switch



Procedures:



      It is VERY SIMPLE!!!  Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't 

considered try this one or else they would have mercuric acid 

on their faces!



1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up.

2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord

3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)

4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that

   it is touching the Hot-spot contact.

5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!

6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.

7. And you will have fun!!  Like Real Party!!!



If your house is on fire (VERY RARE), get that damm fire blower!

This stuph will NOT destroy your plugs, but maybe the fuse depending

how often you do that....    Best try outside or college dorm...

<eof>



TRY SKIDD'S LAB BBS  312-631-5256







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        PIPE BOMB

     Danger Explosives

     \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\









HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB

OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS.



1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND

TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU

THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE

ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT

THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT

CAPS TO PUT ON THE END.



2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR.

MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN

THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE

BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE

SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT.

**IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR

HAND OFF**



3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH

ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE

PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW

OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM

WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER

YOU HAVE IT CAPPED.



4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE

END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE

BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END

IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW

EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER

BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE

OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU

CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT.

**BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT

BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T

KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU 

SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!!



5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING

UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE PIPE 

THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST

THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT

AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS

THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING

SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP

PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE 

CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!!



******IMPORTANT******



AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE

GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!!

TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE.

SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS FOR

IT TO GO OFF. SOMETIMES TWO.

BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME!



I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN

ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT ME

THIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR 

THE NAVY.



THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED

THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT

BLEW ALL FOUR WALLS OUT!!

THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED

IT INTO AN OLD CAR. AND IT PHUKING

BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE 

ROOF THREE FEET INTO THE AIR!!!!



WHEN WE BLEW U THE HOUSE, WE WAITED

FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT IT

WOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF

THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!!

JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME

BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH!



IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS 

REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET

HURT.



   I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER.

AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!!



          From the dusty G-phile

       jar comes some phun!! lets

   go blow something up now!!







       Brought to you by The Ice-Man



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                How to make a Milk Carton Bomb

                     written by XTX-101



The author of this file takes no responsability for any actions of others reading this file.  The writer is in no way responsible for any possible injuries, property damage, and so forth. This file is for informative purposes only.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------







 A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe.  It's only purpose it to create a loud noise.  



 The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire.   You will need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks.  If you can not obtain chop sticks, it's okay to substitut

e

 them with something that can hold the paper and is long enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames.



 After aquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb.  The procedure is easy.  First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk carton with a screw driver or equivalent.  Next fill one-fourth of the milk carton with lighter fluid.  

P

lace the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde.  Hold a piece of paper between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match.  Cautiously place the lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM!  You have your loud explosion with little dama

g

e to the surrounding area.  It would be a good idea to have some water handy to extinguish any flames.  



 Be careful when doing this and have fun.  

                       |>E|<





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 ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][

 ][//////////////////////////////////][

 ][/////////REAL/PIPE/BOMBS//////////][

 ][//////////////////////////////////][

 ][//////////////-=BY=-//////////////][

 ][//////////////////////////////////][

 ][//////THE/DARK/LORDS/OF/CHAOS/////][

 ][//////////////////////////////////][

 ][////PROWLER///////////////////////][

 ][///////APPRENTICE/////////////////][

 ][//////////PRO/HACK////////////////][

 ][//////////////ZEUS////////////////][

 ][////////////////TARKMETH//////////][

 ][///////////////////BLACKSTOKE/////][

 ][//////////////////////////LAZER///][

 ][//////////////////////////////////][

 ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][



STUFF YOU'LL NEED:

------------------



AN 8 INCH SECTION OF PVC CONDUIT 1" IN

DIAMETER

2 PIPE CAPS (THAT WILL FIT THE PVC)

SOME SORT OF PROPELLANT

SOME GREEN WATERPROOF FUSE

A TUBE OF FORMA-GASKET, OR SOME SORT OF

SEALANT

A HOT GLUE GUN

A DRILL WITH A SMALL BIT



ASSEMBLY:

---------



PUT ONE OF THE CAPS ON THE PVC, SEAL

IT, AND LET IT DRY.

FILL THE PIPE HALFWAY FULL WITH YOUR

PROPELLANT

HOLD ONE END OF THE FUSE WHILE FILLING

THE PIPE THE REST OF THE WAY WITH THE

PROPELLANT.

THE PIPE SHOULD NOW BE FULL OF THE

PROPELLANT UP TO 1/3 INCH FROM THE TOP

OF THE PVC. FILL IT THE REST OF THE WAY

WITH HOT GLUE, AND LET IT COOL.

DRILL A SMALL HOL IN THE REMAINING PIPE

CAP, AND PUT IT ON THE PVC

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE RUN THE FUSE THROUGH

THE SMALL HOLE!

NOW, SEAL THE CAP ON THE PIPE, AND SEAL

THE SMALL HOLE AROUND THE FUSE HOLE.



YOU NOW HAVE A WORKING PIPE BOMB WHICH

IS ROUGHLY THE EQUIVALENT OF 1 STICK OF

TNT. HOW YOU USE IT IS UP TO YOU.



THIS FILE IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES

ONLY. I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR 

ANYTHING YOU DO WITH A PIPE BOMB.

YOU'RE YOUR OWN PERSON, SO IF YOU GO

BLOW THE HELL OUT OF SOME FACIST PIG, I

AM NOT RESPONSIBLE. (ALTHOUGH I'LL BE

GLAD YOU DID IT)



++FILE BY PROWLER ON 3/10/88++



CALL THESE FINE SYSTEMS:

---------------------------------------

PHREAK PIT.................609/646-5194

RIPCO......................312/528-5020

NEBULA.....................513/542-3135

---------------------------------------



FUCK 'EM IF THEY CAN'T TAKE A TOKE!

                 





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*****************************************************************************

*                                                                           *

*                             The Ninja Warrior                             *

*                                 Presents:                                 *

*                                 Poison #1                                 *

*                                                                           *

*****************************************************************************

 

THIS WILL BE A SERIES WRITTEN EVERY SO OFTEN TO INFORM YOU FUTURE NINJAS OR

KILLERS OUT THERE.  I WILL WRITE A SERIES OF PHILES ON THE SECRETS OF THE

NINJA.  THIS IS NO BULLSHIT YOU SEE IN THE BOOKS IN YOUR LOCAL MARTIAL ARTS

STORE.  THIS IS THE REAL SHIT.  DON'T ABUSE YOUR POWERS.

 

***WARNING***

IF YOU FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS IN ANY OF THE SERIES AND YOU DO HARM SOMEONE BAD

I WILL TAKE NO BLAME FOR IT.  PLEASE DON'T INTEND TO USE THESE TRICKS AS A

CHILDISH JOKE.  SOME OF THE THINGS I MIGHT WRITE MAY BE VERY HARMFUL...MOST

LIKELY DEADLY.

 

 

BACKGROUND

----------

I WAS BORN IN JAPAN, RAISED AND TAUGHT THE ART OF NINJUTSU FROM MY FAMILY.

I IMMIGRATED TO THE U.S. AND BECAME A U.S. CITIZEN.  I'VE BEEN STUDYING

THE ART FOR OVER 15 YEARS NOW.  I AM REVEALING SOME OF THE SECRETS TO YOU

SINCE MANY PEOPLE ARE WRITING BULLSHIT TO PLEASE THE KIDS, AND ALL THAT

BULL MAKES ME MAD.  IT SEEMS LIKE THE BOOKS CAN SOMETIMES DEGRADE US, THE

PRESENT NINJAS.

 

POISON

------

THERE WERE MANY TYPES OF POISON USED IN THE OLD DAYS IN JAPAN.  MOST OF THE

POISON WAS MADE AT HOME WITH PLANTS, HERBS, AND OTHER INGREDIENTS OBTAINABLE

VERY EASILY.  IN THIS SERIES I WILL DISCUSS A CERTAIN TYPE OF POISON WHICH

HAS A DELAYING DEATH EFFECT.

 

WARNING

-------

THIS POISON IS DEADLY.  I KNOW SOMEONE IN MY CLAN WHO HAS USED THIS TYPE OF

POISON TO KILL A PHEW PEOPLE.  IT WORKED FOR A WHILE BUT EVENTUALLY HE WAS

CAUGHT.  HE IS IN JAIL FOR A LIFE SENTENCE FOR MURDER.

 

========

 POISON

========

 

THIS POISON WILL KILL THE AFFECTED VICTIM WITHIN A WEEK.  THE REASON FOR THE

TIME DELAY IS THAT THE POISON CAUSES THE VICTIM TO GET TETANUS.  THIS PROCESS

CAN BE FATAL, SO PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL IN USING THIS POISON.

 

THE POISON IS FAIRLY SIMPLE TO MAKE.  USING IT TO KILL SOMEONE IS SOMEWHAT

COMPLICATING.

 

THIS IS AN INFECTIOUS POISON SO MAKE SURE YOU HAVEN'T ANY CUTS ON YOUR HANDS

WHEN PREPARING THE POISON.

 

INGREDIENTS:

  HORSE SHIT (EXTRACTED)

  HUMAN BLOOD (TYPE DEPENDS ON VICTIM)

 

YOU CAN GET HORSE SHIT FROM MOST ANYWHERE NOWADAYS SINCE THERE ARE COPS WITH

HORSES NOWADAYS.  JUST WALK AROUND WHERE YOU KNOW HORSES PASS BY, AND GET A

SMALL QUANTITY OF HORSE SHIT.  DON'T GET A LOT CAUSE THAT SHIT STINKS.

 

TAKE SOME HORSE SHIT PUT IT IN A TEST TUBE AND PUT A RUBBER STOPPER ON TOP.

ONCE YOU OBTAIN THE HORSE SHIT, YOU MUST EXTRACT THE NECESSARY PART OF THE

SHIT.

 

YOU MUST REMOVE ALL THE HAY AND OTHER GARBAGE IN THE HORSE SHIT.  YOU CAN

REMOVE THE RUBBER STOPPER AND HEAT THE SHIT OVER A LIGHT FLAME.  THE SHIT

SHOULD START TO MELT AND THE JUNK IS EXTRACTED OUT OF THE SHIT.

 

WHEN THE SHIT MELTS, DUMP IT ON SOME KIND OF FILTERING SYSTEM SO YOU CAN

REMOVE THE JUNK.  REPEAT THE PROCESS UNTIL MOST, IF POSSIBLE, ALL OF THE

JUNK IS REMOVED.  !!! CAUTION !!! THIS PROCESS STINKS UP THE WHOLE FUCKING

HOUSE SO DO IT OUT SIDE.

 

WHEN THE SHIT IS EXTRACTED, YOU MUST OBTAIN THE HUMAN BLOOD.  THE TYPE OF

BLOOD IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!

 

FOR EXAMPLE...IF YOU WANT TO KILL THE VICTIM, YOU MUST USE THE BLOOD TYPE

WHICH CORRESPONDS TO THE VICTIM: BLOOD TYPE A POS. NEEDS AN A POS. BLOOD IN

THE POISON, AND SO FORTH.

 

IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT THE INTENDED VICTIMS BLOOD TYPE IS, THAT'S OKAY.

YOU CAN USE OTHER BLOOD TYPES AND MIX THEM LIKE TRANSFUSIONS OF BLOOD.  BUT

THE EFFECT OF THE POISON MAY BE DELAYED OR IT MAY NOT BE FATAL.  BUT IT

SHOULD DO THE TRICK.

 

GET THE EXTRACTED HORSE SHIT AND MIX THE SHIT WITH THE BLOOD.  THE PROPORTION

OF THE BLOOD WITH RESPECT TO THE SHIT IS 3 TO 1, WHICH MEANS FOR EVERY 1 OZ.

OF SHIT, THERE MUST BE 3 OZ. OF BLOOD, AND SO FORTH.

 

HEAT THE MIXTURE AT A VERY LOW HEAT, AND THE MIXTURE SHOULD START BUBBLING.

TRY NOT TO INHALE THE SMELL.  IT'S KNOWN TO CAUSE CANCER IF YOU SMELL IT.

DO NOT HEAT IT WITH A HIGH FLAME, SINCE THE BACTERIA IN THE SHIT AND THE

BLOOD WILL DIE AND THE POISON WILL BECOME USELESS.

 

HEAT THE TEST TUBE AND STIR THE CONTENT WHILE HEATING TO CREATE A BETTER

MIXTURE.  WHEN THE CONTENT STARTS TO CHANGE COLORS FROM RED TO BRICK BROWN OR

REDDISH-BROWN, THEN REMOVE THE MIXTURE FROM THE FLAME.  ALLOW THE POISON TO

COOL OFF.

 

WHEN THE POISON COOLS OFF, THEN YOU'VE JUST MADE ONE OF THE DEADLIEST POISONS

AROUND.

 

THIS IS NOT A TYPE OF POISON WHICH YOU CAN JUST SPILL ON THE VICTIM, NOR IS

IT ONE THAT YOU CAN JUST PUT INTO SOMEONES FOOD.  IT HAS TO ENTER THE VICTIM'S

BLOOD STREAMS.  TO DO THAT YOU MUST USE A NEEDLE OR A KNIFE TO RUPTURE THE

SKIN IN SOME WAY IN ORDER FOR THE POISON TO WORK.

 

THE NINJA IN THE OLDEN DAYS USED WHAT WAS CALLED FUKIYA AND FUKIBARI.  THE

FUKIYA IS A BLOWGUN MADE OF BAMBOO AND THE FUKIBARI WAS THE DART BLOWN OUT

OF THE BLOWGUN.  WE DIPPED THE DARTS IN THIS POISON, THEN BLEW THE DART OUT

OF THE GUN IMMEDIATELY.  WE USUALLY STRUCK THE VICTIM AT PRESSURE POINTS

WHICH MADE THE VICTIM PASS OUT.  WHEN THE VICTIM PASSED OUT, WE REMOVED THE

DART AND LEFT THE SCENE.  THE PERSON AWAKENS WITH TETANUS, AND DIES WITHIN A

PHEW DAYS, NO LONGER THAN A WEEK.  ANOTHER MURDER WITHOUT A TRACE.

 

WHAT CAN BE DONE IN MODERN TIMES IS GET A NEEDLE DIPPED WITH THE STUFF AND

JUST POKE THE VICTIM.  MOST LIKELY THE VICTIM THINKS YOUR CRAZY AND CONTINUE

TO FIGHT YOU.  IF THE POISON ENTERED HIS BLOOD STREAM, HE WILL GET TETANUS.

WHEN AND IF HE FINDS OUT THAT HE HAS TETANUS, AND GETS A PENICILLIN SHOT OR

SOMETHING, HE WILL LIVE.  BUT IF HE FINDS OUT TOO LATE OR DOESN'T FIND OUT

AT ALL, HE WILL DIE.

 

THERE ARE MANY OTHER WAYS OF GETTING THE POISON INTO THE VICTIM'S BLOOD

STREAM.  YOU WANTING TO BECOME THE TRUE NINJA CAN TRY MANY WAYS TO KILL

WITHOUT A TRACE.  I HOPE YOU WILL NEVER USE IT AS A JOKE.  BE VERY CAREFUL

NOT TO GET THE POISON INTO YOUR BLOOD STREAM.

 

GOOD LUCK AND HAVE A NICE DAY.

 

DATED: 01-05-1985

 

 

PLEASE DO NOT ALTER THIS PHILE IN ANY WAY.  I WANT THIS PHILE TO BE COMPLETE

AND STAY COMPLETE AS IT IS OFFERED TO MANY PEOPLE.  YOU MAY SHARE THIS PHILE

WITH ANYONE AND EVERYONE.  BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THE SECRETS WITHIN

YOURSELF.

 

NEXT SERIES: HOW TO MAKE A SMOKE SCREEN, AND ITS USES AND EFFECTS.

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[Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:



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RIPCO Main G-Phile Menu         3/20/89

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To who (#,B,<CR>):70



Send to ROGER RAMJET ?Y



[[- System Editor V.4.0 -]]



Enter message now, 79 col, 4k bytes max

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ROGER,

      I CALLED HAYA YESTERDAY AND TALKED WITH HER ABOUT HER INJURY.  SHE SAYS

SHE WAS IN HER HEALTH CLUB TRYING TO DO SOME NEW EXERCISE RECOMMENDED BY HER

THERAPIST.  SOMETHING WENT AFOUL AND SHE PULLED SOME MUSCLE. IN HER LOWER BACK.

 SHE HAS BEEN OFF WORK FOR A WEEK USING HER TIME DUE, AND IT DOESN'T APPEAR TO

PRESENT ANY JOB-RELATED PROBLEMS.  SHE MAY STOP BY AFTER CLASS FRIDAY IF WE GO

TO LA VILLA, OR WILL TRY TO MAKE THE THAI TRIP NEXT FRIDAY.  SHE DID SAY THAT

IF YOU WANTED TO COME OVER AND EXERCISE HER LOWER BACK, SHE WOULD TICKLE YOUR

EARS WITH HER BIG TOES.  (AND NO NEED TO WRAP YOUR PACKAGE)  EXPLAIN THAT ONE

TO LINDA (WOULD SHE ACCEPT IT LIKE SHE DID WHEN YOU SCREWED RACQUEL WELCH OR

SEKA?

                                                   COHO



/EX



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