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              Outbreak Magazine Issue #14 - Article 5 of 15
          '~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~'


Tools of the trade
==================
by Captain B

For the entry-level phone phreak, getting to know the names and purposes of 
some of the telecom tools and equipment can be a good first step toward 
becoming a better phreaker. This file Isn't intended to be an all-inclusive 
guide to every last tool and piece of equipment. It's meant to be more of a 
primer of sorts. And, mainly the more common tools/equipment will be 
mentioned here.

*Tool or equipment name/Purpose*

Wire cutters/strippers- If you want to install your own inside phone wire, 
you'll nned wire cutters and wire strippers, or a combination wire 
cutter/stripper tool. After cutting phone wire to desired length with a wire 
cutter tool, use a wire stripper to remove the outer insulation jacket. Next, 
use the wire stripper to remove about an inch of insulation off of the small 
colored wires. Finally, attach the stripped ends of those wire leads to the 
screw terminals inside a phone jack, TNI (Telephone Network Interface) box, 
or 42A block. Wrap the stripped ends of the wires tightly clockwise around a 
screw. Patience and a steady hand are key to doing good phone wire 
installations. Check the instructions that came with the tool if you need 
further instruction. A variety of wire cutters and strippers are sold at 
Radio Shack. Possibly other stores like Home Depot may carry them, too. Just 
make sure the wire strippers can strip 24-26 wire gauge. (Which is 
represented as 24AWG or 26AWG).

Modular crimp tool- With this tool, you'll be able to repair the telephone 
line cord that connects between your phone and phone jack, if the phone line 
cord has become partially or completely detached from the modular plug 
connector on either end of the cord somehow. This tool basically squeezes 
(crimps) a new modular plug onto the end of a phone line cord. You can also 
create your own custom length phone line cords this way. Certain model 
modular crimp tools (like the RCA brand crimp tool, sold at Home Depot) 
allow the same to be done with phone handset cords as well. Also, certain 
model modular crimp tools allow RJ45 (4-line) modular plug connectors to be 
crimped onto RJ45 phone line cords. (RJ45 Plugs/jacks are a bit wider than 1, 
2, or 3 line modular plugs/jacks). 1 or 2 line phones can only be plugged 
into a 4 line jack via an 8 conductor (RJ45) plug-to-dual 4 conductor (RJ14) 
jacks. 1 of the jacks is lines 1/2, the other is for lines 3/4. Check with 
the instructions that came with the modular crimp tool to learn how to use 
it. Modular crimp tools can be bought at Radio Shack, Home Depot, and many 
other places where phones and phone accessories are sold.

Modular line cord plugs- Without some modular line cord plugs to crimp onto 
line cords, that shiny new modular crimp tool you bought Isn't too useful. 
So far, I've only seen packs of RJ14 (2 line), RJ25 (3 line), and RJ45 (4 
line) modular plugs. They don't seem to come in RJ11 (1 line) modular plugs. 
But, since all 1-3 line jacks/plugs are compatible, it really doesn't matter. 
(They'll fit perfectly). If, however, you're using 4 line phones/phone 
jacks/line cords, you'll need to buy a pack of RJ45 modular plugs. And, make 
sure to buy a modular crimp tool that crimps 4 line plugs onto 4 line phone 
cords. Radio Shack sells packs of RJ45 modular plugs, and 1 of the 2 types 
of modular crimp tools they sell crimps RJ45 plugs. (Unfortunately, It's the 
more expensive of the 2 modular crimp tools also). And, even though they don't 
intend it, these line cord plugs could even be attached to the end of many 
types of inside phone station wire. Packs of 2 line modular plugs are the 
most commonly found at most stores selling phones/phone accessories. RJ25 
(3 line) plugs/phone jacks/line cords ssem to be more obscure. I've only 
seen those sold at Radio Shack so far. 4 line RJ45 modular plugs/phone 
jacks/line cords may also be somewhat harder to find at places other than 
Radio Shack.

Modular handset cord plugs- The installation proceedure for these are the 
same as for modular line cords. Except, these are for crimping onto phone
handset cords instead. (The handset cord is the cord that connects between 
the phone handset, and the rest of the phone). Unless you take a pretty 
close look, it can be fairly easy to mistake these for being 2 line (RJ14) 
modular line cord plugs. In fact, handset cord plugs are only slightly more 
narrow than 1, 2, or 3 line modular line cord plugs. But, although it wouldn't 
be manufacturer recommended, I think it may be possible to crimp a handset 
cord plug onto a phone line cord. Certainly, I know that 1 and 2 line phone 
line cords will fit into a handset cord plug for crimping. And, from experience, 
I know that phone line cord plugs can be crimped onto handset cords. A 
handset cord can be turned into a phone line cord in this manner. So far, 
I've only seen packs of handset cord plugs sold under the RCA brand name at 
Home Depot. And, the RCA brand modular crimp tool sold at Home Depot crimps 
handset cord plugs, according to the back of the package for the pack of 
handset cord plugs. You could also check with other stores selling 
phones/phone accessories for availibility/prices.

Insulation piercing modular line cord plug- Don't have a modular crimp tool 
handy? No problem! Using the concept of insulation piercing, (Sometimes 
called insulation displacement) an insulation piercing phone line cord plug 
attaches to a modular phone line cord without crimping. First, seperate the 
insulation piercing line cord plug into It's upper/lower halves by loosening 
the screw contained in the top half. Then, simply strip enough of the outer 
jacket insulation off a 1 or 2 line (RJ11 or RJ14) phone line cord. Then, 
postion the 2 or 4 little wires (usually colored red and green, or red, 
green, yellow, and black) into the respectively marked "R", "G", "Y", and 
"B" wire channel tracks on the lower half of the insulation piercing line 
cord plug. No stripping of the insulation off of the little colored wires is 
to be done. Just re-attach the top half of the insulation piercing line cord 
plug by tightening down the screw on the top half of the plug, making sure to 
hold the line cord stationary (so the little wires from the line cord don't 
accidently slide out of the wire channel tracks inside) and, you're done. But,
 it can actually be more difficult working with these insulation piercing 
plugs than standard crimp-on plugs. Besides, you only get 1 of these 
insulation piercing line cord plugs for about the same or more than the cost 
of a pack of 2 line (RJ14) crimp-on line cord plugs. However, these 
insulation piercing plugs fit much better onto Category 3 "patch" cords than 
the crimp-on type plug connectors. Even though they don't intend it, these 
insulation piercing plugs could even be attached to the end of 1 or 2 line 
inside phone station wire. Radio Shack also sells insulation piercing modular 
line cord plugs for installation on RJ45 4 line (8 conductor) line cords. 
(Which includes Category 5 and Category 5E line cords). If you need further 
instruction, check with the instructions on the package. Insulation piercing 
line cord plugs can be bought at Radio Shack, Home Depot, and possibly other 
stores that sell phones/phone accessories.

Insulation piercing handset cord plugs- Much the same as the insulation
piercing line cord plugs, except for installation on modular handset cords 
instead. The installation proceedure is the same as it was for the insulation 
piercing line cord plug. But, once again, a pack of crimp-on modular handset 
cord plug connectors can be cheaper, and quicker/easier to install. If you 
need to, you can check the package for installation instructions. You can 
find the insulation piercing handset plug at Radio Shack, Home Depot, and 
possibly other places carrying phones/phone accessories.

Alligator clips- To be able to connect a phone to the screw terminals inside 
phone jacks, TNI (Telephone Network Interface) boxes, 42A blocks, telco cans, 
and some other telecom termination (junction) boxes, you'll need to connect 
up using alligator clip connectors. Much like their larger sized counterpart 
on the ends of a car battery jumper cable, these alligator clips are intended 
to clamp onto the aforementioned connection points, and make an electrical 
connection. To do this, simply squeeze open the jaws of the alligator clip, 
attach to a screw terminal point, and release the jaws of the alligator clip, 
thereby allowing the gator clip to clamp down onto the screw terminal. An 
alligator clip could also be used to clamp onto another alligator clip, or 
the stripped end of a phone wire lead for the purpose of making an electrical 
connection. And, since all phone lines are in pairs of 2 wires each, you'll 
need at least 2 alligator clips. For reference sake, the pair of wires for 
line 1 is usually colored red and green. (Red is the "ring", or negative. 
Green is called the "tip", and is the positive). Line 2 is usually colored 
yellow and black. Yellow is the ring wire lead, and black is the tip. But, 
bear in mind that this wire color scheme is only for standard phone wire 
found inside phone jacks, TNI boxes, and 42A blocks. Category 3, Category 5, 
and Category 5E (Enhanced Cat 5) has wire color schemes that are different 
from standard grade phone wire. Also, the phone wire the telco (the phone 
company) uses for all their outside phone wire doesn't use the red/green, 
yellow/black color scheme either. Alligator clips come attached to the cord 
on a lineman's handset phone. The type of alligator clips on lineman's 
handsets are even able to pierce through outer insulation with pins built 
into those gator clips. Those gator clips are often ABN (Angled Bed of Nails).
 The type bought from Radio Shack don't have these built-in insulation 
piercing pins. Now, with modular phone line cords, they need to be modified 
by adding alligator clip connectors to them. There are 2 types of alligator 
clips: 1 type has a small screw terminal for attaching the stripped end of a 
wire. With the other type, you have to solder a stripped wire end onto it. I 
don't think I recommend using the solder-type alligator clips if your 
soldering skills are somewhat poor. Besides, screw-type gator clips clips 
can be a bit quicker/easier to work with. But, whether the alligator clips 
are the solder or screw terminal type, you should get alligator clips that 
are fully insulated. (Alligator clips that are fully insulated come with 
their own outer insulation sleeves over the alligator clips themselves). If 
you decide to use screw type gator clips, you can buy a 2 line RJ14 modular 
plug-to-4 spade lugs phone line cord. Sold at Radio Shack, these type of 
phone line cords come in 3 lengths: 1Ft, 12Ft, and 25Ft. I'm not sure about 
the availibility of these modular plug-to-spade lugs modular phone line 
cords at places other than Radio Shack. I recommend buying the 1Ft. cord, 
but any length is fine. Besides, if you own a modular crimp tool and have 
some modular line cord plugs, you can shorten any cord as you so desire. 
Remember, only crimp on a new line cord plug on the same end of a 
plug-to-spade lugs line cord where the existing modular plug already is. An 
insulation piercing line cord plug could also be used instead of the crimp 
on type line cord plugs. Now, unless you plan on using a 2 line phone, and 
connecting it up to a 2 line phone jack with phone service on both line 1 
and 2, then you can cut off the yellow and black wires on the plug-to-spade 
lugs cord. Try to cut off the wires as close to where they come out of the 
grey outer insulation jacket as possible. I think the Radio Shack nippy 
cutters are perfect for this job. Slide the outer insulation sleeve off of 
one of the alligator clips. (This is a bit easier if you have the aligator 
clip clamp down on some fairly thick object. That way It'll help keep the 
alligator clip open, and make it easier to slide the insulation sleeve off). 
Even so, don't expect theese insulation sleeves to slide off super quick and 
easy. Just take your time, and gradually slide it off. And, try to keep the 
alligator clip from sliding off whatever you have it clamped onto. I prefer 
to use my bed's comforter blanket. Being made of cloth, the gator clip won't 
slide off as easy while working with it. After you've slid the insulation 
sleeve off one of the alligator clips, use a Phillips or flathead screwdriver 
to loosen the small screw on one of the alligator clips. Now, carefully and 
gradually slide the narrower back end of the insulation sleeve completely 
over the spade lug end of one of the wires, and on through the insulation 
sleeve until the spade lug has come out the front end of the insulation 
sleeve. Attach the spade lug underneath the screw head on the gator clip, 
and tighten the screw down. Make sure to hold the spade lug in place between 
your thumb and finger while tightening the screw, so the spade lug doesn't 
move with the screw as you're tightening it. Then, once again, have the jaws 
of the alligator clip clamp down on some thick object to fully open up the 
gator clip. Gradually and carefully slide the insulation sleeve over the 
back end of the alligator clip, but leave some of the front end of the 
alligator clip sticking out of the front end of the insulation sleeve. Now, 
repeat this process to connect the spade lug end of the other wire to the 
other alligator clip. Now, by plugging in the modular plug end this modified 
line cord with alligator clips into a phone directly, or into the jack end 
of a line cord with a built in jack (known as an extension line cord), or 
into an in-line coupler (Female-to-female jack) attached to a line cord, 
then you can use the alligator clips to connect that phone to bare screw 
terminals found inside TNI (Telephone Network Interface) boxes, telco cans, 
and other junction points where phone wire is terminated (connected) to 
screw terminals. Remember, you only need to use alligator clips when 
connecting to screw terminals. Stick to using modular line cords when you 
want to connect a phone to a phone jack. Including the "test jack" found 
inside TNI boxes. Alligator clips can be bought at Radio Shack, and probably 
at other smaller chain electronic stores, such as Active Electronics.

Phone splice and phone tap connectors- These phone connectors are quick and 
easy to install, and even weatherproof. So, if you want to install them 
outdoors, you can. But, once installed, the connection with these is 
intended to be a permanent one. Just bear that in mind before installing 
them. The only tool you'll need to install these connectors is pliers. I 
used needle-nose pliers myself to install these, but I think most types of 
pliers will do the job. The phone splice and tap connectors come in 2 
colors/varities: Red is the splice connectors for splicing 2 ends of a given 
phone wire together. There are 3 small holes on the one side of the splice 
connector. Up to 2 wires can fit in each hole (6 total) and all wires must be
of the same color. (Although, it doesn't say in the instructions that come 
with the splice connectors whether you're supposed to put 2 wires together 
in one hole. But, even so, I found that when I put 2 wires in one hole, it 
worked fine for me). The green phone tap connectors are used to tap into a 
given existing phone wire, just as the name implies. To tap into both the 
negative (ring) and positive (tip) wires on a phone line requires 2 of these 
tap connectors. Since both the splice and tap connectors are sold in packs of 
4 at Radio Shack, this is no problem. With phone tap connectors, the little 
"run" wire, is placed into the run channel on the tap connector. (The run 
channel is the spot with holes on opposite sides of each other on the tap 
connector for running the small "run" wire through. (That's the wire that'll 
be tapped into). A 2nd wire of the same color is placed into the other hole. 
Tap and splice connectors can be used to splice or tap the inside phone 
station wire running to/between phone jacks in your home, the phone wiring 
outdoors inside TNI (Telephone Network Interface) boxes, telco cans, and 
some other phone wire junction boxes. And also, the phone wire inside modular 
phone line and phone handset cords. And remember, the insulation on the 
little wires should not be stripped off, regardless on whether you're 
installing either the phone splice or phone tap connectors. And also, 
regardless of which of the different types phone wire previously mentioned 
you use it on. The wires shouldn't be twisted after the connectors have been 
installed. There's A 3rd type of splice connector sold that's yellow in color, 
and meant for wire gauges in the range of 22-26AWG (As compred to 19-26AWG 
for the other 2 types of connectors). Since phone wire is in the 24-26AWG 
wire gauge range, these can also be used on all the previously mentioned 
phone wire. But, these yellow color splice connectors can't be found in Radio 
Shack stores. However, Home Depot sells packs of them, as well as the other 
2 types.

Telephone spade lugs- Besides for being able to buy phone line cords with 
spade lug connectors attached to the wire ends, you can also add spade lug 
connectors to the ends of phone wire for line cords as well as phone station 
wire (used to connect to/between phone jacks inside your home) and the wires 
inside a phone handset cord. Radio Shack sells packs of telephone spade lugs. 
To attach them to the wire leads (wire ends) of a phone line cord, or other 
phone wire, requires a crimp tool. Not to be confused with the modular crimp 
tool, the one used for this purpose crimps spade lugs or other connectors 
onto wire leads. Radio Shack sells a telephone connector crimp tool (Cat no. 
64-410), yet I found it not to be too good for the job. The reason being is 
that the jaws of that crimp tool are pretty square-shaped. Since most wires 
in electronics are usually round, and since the end of most connectors that 
get crimped onto wire cables are more or less rounded in shape, and are 
intended to be crimped on around a wire lead, the more square shaped jaws of 
this phone connector crimp tool didn't really work right for the purpose. I 
found that the more rounder crimp jaws built into the 4 in 1 needle nose 
pliers/crimp tool/wire stripper/wire cutter from Radio Shack (Cat no. 
64-1847) seemed to be more better suited. Even if you don't use that tool to 
crimp with, you should try use one that can crimp connectors in the 24-26AWG 
wire guage, or at least as close as possible. I don't think I recommend 
using one that crimps connectors less than 22AWG. But, bear in mind that I 
mean the particular part on that given connector crimp tool. Since many 
crimp tools usually have various different size jaws on different parts of 
the same crimp tool. For example, one part on a given crimp connector tool 
may crimp connectors in the 10-16AWG wire gauge range, and another spot on 
the same crimp tool may crimp connectors in the 18-22AWG wire gauge range. 
Crimping spade lugs or any type connectors onto any type wire ends for that 
matter, requires some patience and care to get it right. Slide one of the 
little phone wires (Typically red, yellow, green or black in color) bewteen 
the little insulation piercing pins on the spade lug connector. Try to hold 
the spade lug and the wire in place with one hand, and with the other hand 
place the crimp tool's jaws over the pins on the spade lug connector. Now, 
squeeze the crimp tool handles together fairly slow, but surely. If you you 
got it right, the wire will now be underneath the pins on the phone spade 
lug connector. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect for the spade lug to 
be able to make the proper electrical connection when used. If you didn't 
get it right, don't worry. It can be fairly tricky work when crimping these 
connectors. But, as long as you have more spade lugs and wire, you can 
always try again. Although Radio Shack is the only place I know of for 
certain that carries these spade lug connectors, you could try a smaller 
independent chain electronic store. Like Active Electronics, for example.

Lineman's handset- Phone company lineman test lines by connecting up to a 
phone line with a lineman's handset. There's a few models of Harris brand 
lineman's handset's availible at Home Depot, and you can also find more on 
the following websites: Harris' website at 
http://www.networksupport.harris.com/products/tools/POTS.asp -
And on Jensen Tools' website at:
http://www.jensentools.com/product/category.asp?parent_id=425 - Jensen Tools 
contact info is as follows: Jensen Tools - 7815 South 46th St. Phoenix, AZ 
85044-5399 Phone-(602)453-3169 or (800)426-1194 Fax-(602)438-1690 or 
(800)366-9662. Another alternative is to type the words "Lineman handset" 
in a Google search. Although useful, there's not much in the way of features 
exclusive to lineman's handsets that you can't get in many standard phones. 
The alligator clips with their ABN (Angle Bed of Nails) insulation piercing 
pins on them can be one useful thing. And, the ability to do a line monitor 
can be another pretty good one. (Monitoring the line means listening to the 
line when the phone is hung p, or "on hook"). For example, by line monitoring,
 you can hear caller ID transmissions between the CO (Central Office) and 
CPE (Customer Premise Equipmet. In other words, the customer's caller ID 
equipment) that come in between the first and 2nd rings on an incoming call. 
But, besides for lineman's handsets, there's 2 other ways to go on this. The 
first, and most simple, is to buy what I call a one piece phone. (I call it 
"one piece", because there's no seperate handset and base unit). It's all in 
one nice, compact design. Which is definitely helpful when field phreaking. 
(Phreaking outdoors somewhere). I always try to take space and ease of 
portability into consideration for much of the telecom equipment I take with 
me when field phreaking. Now, the things is, there just Isn't many one piece 
phones on the market. There's the Apollo flip phone (Sold in your choice of 
3 colors) which lat I checked was still being sold at Radio Shack. The Super 
Mini Flip phone from Radio Shack was unbelievably small and lightweight, and 
even came with a headphone jack. Sadly, these seem to have been discontinued 
now. But, if you're lucky, maybe a Radio Shack somewhere near you may still 
have one. Umm... I think the price was down to about 5 or 6 bucks last I 
seen. And, there's 2 models of ConAir phones made that are one piece phones. 
The SW114 sold at K Mart (if they're still in business in your area by the 
time you read this) and the SW112 flip phone also sold at K mart. I suspect 
that they may have discontinued the SW112 model, as I now no longer see it 
in my local K mart store anymore. Anyway, the 2nd method of a placebo for a 
lineman's handset involves modifying a modular phone handset cord to allow a 
standard home phone that has a keypad built into the handset to be connected 
to phone jacks and screw terminals. Refer to my Conversion Box file at the 
following web page to learn how to build this: 

http://www.hackerhost.com/lph/conversion.txt 

There may also be other web sites where it can be found, too. Go to 
http://www.google.com and type in "Captain B text" in the search to locate 
all sites currently hosting my files. The Wireless Beige Box file of mine 
might also be of interest to you, if you'd like to use a cordless phone in 
place of a lineman's handset to beige box with. Check the following web page: 

http://www.hackerhost.com/lph/wireless.txt - Or, use the Google search 
method mentioned above to find that file of mine if you're interested. For 
all my files on hackerhost.com/lph, visit http://www.hackerhost.com/lph and 
click on "text philes".

Can wrench- This is the tool that's used by phone company linemen to open TNI 
(Telephone Network Inteface) boxes and Telco cans. It's nothing more than a 
double sided, hex nutdriver. One side is for TNI boxes using a 3/8" hex nut, 
and the other for Telco cans using a 7/16" nut. These can wrenches are pretty 
hard to come by. I think I remember phreakstore.com carrying these, as well 
as crystals to mod tone dialers into red boxes with, and other good stuff, 
but phreakstore no longer exisits. But, you can also find can wrenches on 
Jensen Tools website at: 

http://www.jensentools.com/product/category.asp?parent_id=405 - The combination 
can wrench is the better of the 2 on there, since there's also an optional 
security hex driver add-on for it to remove the bottom panel, and other parts 
off the enclosure on pay phones. Or, go to Google.com and type in the words 
"can wrench" for more. There's also another way to remove those hex nuts on 
TNI boxes and telco cans. Go to Home Depot and buy either a 1/4" drive 
ratchet, or spinner handle. Actually, I recommend getting both, since the 
extra torq (pressure) ability of the ratchet helps when using it with the 
7/16" hex nut socket for use on telco cans. But, the spinner handle (which 
looks much like a screw driver) with It's long shaft, fits perfectly down 
into the TNI box's "Telco access only" slot which has the 3/8" nut. Another 
way to do it is use a 3/8" hex deep socket bit with a 1/4" drive ratchet to 
make it fit all the way down into the telco access only slot. With some newer 
model TNI boxes, the 3/8" nut is easier to get to, and doesn't require the 
long shaft of the spinner handle, or a deep 3/8" hex deep socket bit used 
with a ratchet. And, just to make mention, these are called hex sockets, 
and the nuts are called hex nuts because that's their shape. 6 equal sides, 
forming a hexagon shape. Anyway, in the case of telco cans, you may find 
ones that are padlocked. In which case, you're out of luck unless you have a 
bolt cutter to cut the padlock off. Which, I don't recommend doing anyway, 
since you DEFINITELY want to leave ALL phone company equipment the way you 
found it after you done with it. So certainly, make sure to close up all 
telco cans and TNI boxes when done. And, on a side note, even if you don't 
buy a 3/8 hex socket for your 1/4 drive ratchet or spinner handle, It's 
still possible to open up the customer access side of a TNI box with a 
standard phillips or flat head screw driver. Just as long as there's no 
padlock on the TNI box, you can do this.

Phone line tester- If you want to test phone jacks and cords for correct 
polarity, continuity, (opens) which simply put means whether you have 
electrical voltage/current present or not on your phone line depending on 
whether there's a broken wire connection somewhere, or perhaps a short, or 
something like that, then you'll need to use a line tester. There's 2 types 
of these sold at Radio Shack. One simply is plugged into any phone jack in 
your home, or even into the test jack inside a TNI box. The other line 
tester tests phone jacks in your home, and also modular phone handset cords 
and phone line cords for the same possible faults. In fact, it even tests 
standard RG6 type 75 Ohm coaxial cables for faults, too. (This type of 
coaxial, or "co-ax" cable is commonly used by cable companies for running 
cable service over, and is also used to connect VCRs and other video 
equipment to TV sets). Now, the ability to check coax cables for problems 
is fine, by I bought that test in particular becuase of the ability to test 
all those phone related things I mentioned. It's more expensive to buy that 
full featured tester (I think it cost about $17 last I checked) but, 
considering you can do more with it, it can be worth it. Home Depot also 
sells a few line testers under the Ideal brand name. These testers connect 
up just like in-line couplers connected between 2 lengths of phone line cord. 
I point this out since the standard line tester from Radio Shack (for about 
$5) simply sonnects into a phone jack only, not on a line cord like this type. 
Also, since different line testers vary, some will have more LED lights than 
that light up to show you faults than others. For example, the standard line 
tester has seperate lights for lines 1 and 2 individually that will either 
light up green to indicate correct polarity, red for reverse (wrong) polarity, 
or it simply wont light at all if there's a short or open on that phone line. 
The more full-featured only tests line 1 on phone jacks. If you want to test 
line 2's wiring for problems, you'll need to use Radio Shack's 2 line, 3 way 
splitter. Simply plug the splitter into the phone jack, and run a line cord 
between the middle jack on the splitter to the tester. This also shows that 
different line testers don't always test the same number of lines. Ideal 
brand manufactures line testers in 2, 3, and 4 line testers. Remember, a 1, 
2 or 3 line tester won't fit with the phone jacks/plugs of 4 line phone 
equipment. Nor will 4 line testers fit with 1, 2 or 3 line phone jacks/plugs. 
Also, some testers will have a LED light for shorts and opens, others may not. 
In which case, if no LED lights light up, there could be either a short or an 
open condition. In other words, depending on how full featured or not your 
tester is, you may still have to figure out whether there's a short or open on 
your phone line or phone cords.

Tone generator and inductive line tracer probe- Of everything mentioned in 
this file, this is the one that would not be very likely to be used by your 
average Joe Phreaker. Now, although the tone generator and inductive tracer
probe can be bought seperately at Home Depot, these 2 pieces of telecom 
equipment are meant to be used together. Phone linemen use these for 
locating a specific phone wire pair amongst many. This is particularly 
useful inside telco cans, and other telco junction box equipment. The tone 
generator is connected to a phone line either via a modular line cord and 
plug into a phone jack, or via alligator clips. Once connected and turned on, 
it puts out either a steady or pulsating beep tone. At some point further 
"downstream" on the same phone line, (like inside the nearest telco can for 
example) the inductive probe is touched to the insulation on a wire in the 
proper wire pair, and the signal is picked up and heard through the probe. 
Another method of doing this is to have something that produces a continuous 
source of sound connected up to a phone line, and connect up a lineman's 
handset or one piece phone with alligator clips somewhere downstream on that 
same phone line. Although the technique is essentially the same, the 
advantage of the inductive line tracer probe as compared to the other method 
is that you wont actually need to physically connect up any gator clips, or 
line cords to the line to hear the signal. Also, unlike the other method, I 
believe the tone generator can even been run over a dead, disconnected line. 
Using a tone generator and probe, or the other method I mentioned, you could 
locate your line in any phone company telco can or other type telecom 
junction box. Harris makes these tone generators and inductive probes. So, 
there may be more info somewhere on Harris' website at www.harris.com.
