1.29.94 ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³MULTI PURPOSE STINK GRENADE³Ü ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´Û ³By: Excessive Mayhem³Û ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙÛ ßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßß This file has a somewhat less serious overtone to it that the first two files I have written. The first two are files on Ecoterrorism, where as this file is how to make a stink grenade. IN FACT, this weapon CAN be used in your efforts for a green planet. By tossing this item into the office or trailer of the most hated land raper in you neighbourhood, you convey your feelings about him/her in a somewhat graphic manner. Of course, this technique will probably never be used for such a serious purpose, and will more likely be used to fumigate schools and the like, but the application is there if you choose to use it. Oh yeah: "The author does not condone or reccomend the use of any of the techniques described in this file. Use at your own risk." Anyways, on with the file: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- There are many different files on making stink bombs. They all look like they should work relatively well, and they are all relatively inexpensive. This one _DOES_ work and offers you the ability to toss it or leave it some place. This is not really a stink BOMB, but a stink GRENADE, meaning you can toss, lobb it, jetison it, catapult it or otherwise throw it at your target and you can rest assured that it will release it's stinky payload. Equipment: ---------- C-Clamp - Available at any hardware store. Any item that can be used to put constant pressure on something overnight can be used instead. Small piece of doweling. (3/4 inch to 1 inch in length) - Doweling is that round wood stuff. Commonly used in kite frames. You can pick it up at any hobby shop or hardware store. As you will only need 3/4 of an inch, you might consider the 5 finger discount, but I recommend against it, the stuff runs about 80 cents for 3 feet. Bottle (or two) of super glue - Available at ANY hardware store and most convience stores. Go for the thick stuff, as opposed to the watery type. Aerosol can of "Fart" spray or skunk spray - This is a little harder to come by. In hunting stores you can find a "skunk" spray which hunters use to mask their scent. This would be ideal. The novelty "Fart" sprays work as well. Whatever it is it needs to smell bad and it needs to be in your standard aerosol can. (So an actual skunk wouldn't work, unless it were compressed into an aerosol can. :) Thick rubber band - Should be long enough to fit around the can from base to nozzle ONLY WHEN COMPLETELY STRECHED. This is the triggering device, so it's length is extreamly important. (If you don't understand now, you will later in the file) Piece of cardboard or construction paper - Optional Drill with small bit (1/8 inch and smaller) - Don't need to buy one, your friend will have one you can borrow One Nail - Should be small enough to fit EASILY into the hole drilled by the drill. Method: ------- The construction of this device is exceptionally simple, but not so easy to explain. A file called DIAGRAMS.TXT should have been included in this archive. It contains the diagrams refered through throughout the text. Hopefully they are self explanitory. 1) Drill a hole about 1/6 of an inch away from one end of the dowel. 2) Remove the spray nozzle from the can. (The small thing where the spray comes out.) 3) Glue the rubber band to the top of the nozzle and glue the dowel to the top of the rubber band. The end with the hole should be the one stuck to the rubber band. Use LOTS of glue. Use the C-Clamp to apply pressure overnight. (To make sure the glue dries solidly) {SEE DIAGRAM 1.1} 4) Glue the rubber band along BOTH SIDES OF THE CAN. The idea here is that there will be downward pressure on the nozzle when it is re-applied. If neccessary the rubber band can be cut and you can use the C-Clamp to hold it in place while the glue dries. Either way, leave it over-night. 5) Modify the soft plastic cap (used to cover the entire end of the can) as follows: Cut a large opening out of one side of the cap. This is where the nozzle will point out. With that in mind, cut two smaller notches at the base of the cap so the rubber band can run down the sides of the can. Cut a circular hole at the very top of the cap. This hole should be just large enough for the dowel to poke through unresricted. 6) Okay. Here's the hard part. Put the nozzle back onto the neck of the can. This should be okay, the pressure of the rubber band shouldn't be enough to release the can's contents. Put your modified cap on. Play with it until you can get the nail through the hole in the dowel at just the right height that it prevents you from pushing down the dowel. (This is where a diagram will come in handy). The nail acts as a "saftey pin", like on a grenade. {SEE DIAGRAMS 1.2 and 1.3} 7) Play with it to make sure it works. When you are certain everything that needs adjusting is adjusted, glue the cap on tightly. 8) Attach a piece of cardboard as shown in the diagram so that it prevents the can's contents from being sprayed directly into the ground. {SEE DIAGRAM 1.4} 9) To use the grenade, pull out the nail and press down on the piece of dowel which sticks up through the cap. The rubber band will stop the nozzle from popping back up, and the can's contents will be completely emptied in a matter of moments. While it is emptying you can walk away from the scene. Field Notes: ------------ Not much to say about this item, except that there are almost endless possibilities. You could modify the cardboard setup so that sprayed directly into the ground. Now replace the stink with a can of spray-paint, and TA DA, irreversable carpet damage. You can also attach the can to a base, so that it stands straight up. With this method and a little ingenuity, you can make a type of flame-thrower. Play around with it. - If you're gonna be using this for more than a practical joke, make sure you wipe ALL fingerprints off the equipment before use. Use rubber surgeons gloves when assembling it and attach a piece of burlap to the outside of the can when it's complete. The burlap makes for crappy fingerprints, so you can handle it freely. That about wraps it up for this file. I plan to write some more eco-phreak files in the future and some pretty damaging stuff as well. If you need to contact me, ask one of the ANON staff. I'd appreciate feedback on this item. Remeber, if you get caught, you didn't hear it from me. :) Working together for a blue sky... THE FOLLOWING IS A COMPILATION OF TEXTS THAT GO WITH THE STINKBOMB TEXT FILE Diagrams: --------- Dowel Dowel Arrows ±±± - Dowel / / indicate ±±± ÄÄÄÛÄÄÄ - Nail Û direction ÜÜÜÜÜÜÜ |~~~~~~~| <- |~~~~~~~| of spray. Û|~~~|Û - Rubber Band | |~~~| |- Modified Cap <- | |- Cap Û| þ |Û |_|___|_| <- |__|~|__| Û|___|Û | | | ± | Û | Û | | | ± | \---- Nozzle | |- Can | ± |- Can | | | ± | | | | ± | Diagram 1.1 | | Diagram 1.2 | ± | Diagram 1.3 |_______| |___±___| \___Rubber Band Piece of Card / Note: I'm well aware that these .-----------.-------. drawings SUCK. If there is / / Bottom \ anyone out there who would like | <- | of | to do some better ones for me, | <- | Can | Diagram 1.4 they'll recieve VIP access on my \ \ / BBS. '-----------'-------'