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    THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK 
    ________________________

					      
1.0     INTRODUCTION 
 
     Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS),
     is proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook.
     First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes
     no responsibilities for any misuse of the information presented in
     this publication.  The purpose of this is to show the many techniques
     and methods used by those people in this and other countries who employ
     terror as a means to political and social goals.  The techniques herein
     can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be carried out
     by a terrorist with minimal equipment.  This makes one all the more
     frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this
     information, and use it against anyone.  The processes and techniques
     herein SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!!  SERIOUS
     HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE
     METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION.  THIS IS MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT,
     AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE BY BEGINNERS!!!  THE INFORMATION
     INCLUDED IN THIS MANUAL IS ONLY FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE EXPERIENCED IN
     CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR OWN ACTIONS!!!

     Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone
     has some idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts
     of terror; that is the reason for the existence of this publication.


1.1           Table of Contents 
	      _________________

2.0     BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS 
	  2.01    Black Powder
	  2.02    Pyrodex
	  2.03    Rocket Engine Powder
	  2.04    Rifle/Shotgun Powder
	  2.05    Flash Powder
	  2.06    Ammonium Nitrate

2.1     ACQUIRING CHEMICALS 
	  2.11    Techniques for Picking Locks

2.2     LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY    

2.3     PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 
	  2.31    Nitric Acid
	  2.32    Sulfuric Acid
	  2.33    Ammonium Nitrate

3.0     EXPLOSIVE RECIPES 
	  3.01    Explosive Theory

3.1     IMPACT EXPLOSIVES        
	  3.11    Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
	  3.12    Mercury Fulminate
	  3.13    Nitroglycerine
	  3.14    Picrates

3.2     LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES 
	  3.21    Black Powder
	  3.22    Nitrocellulose
	  3.23    Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
	  3.24    Perchlorates

3.3     HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES 
	  3.31    R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
	  3.32    Ammonium Nitrate
	  3.33    ANFOS
	  3.34    T.N.T.
	  3.35    Potassium Chlorate
	  3.36    Dynamite
	  3.37    Nitrostarch Explosives
	  3.38    Picric Acid
	  3.39    Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
	  3.40    Nitrogen Trichloride
	  3.41    Lead Azide

3.5     OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" 
	  3.51    Thermit
	  3.52    Molotov Cocktails
	  3.53    Chemical Fire Bottle
	  3.54    Bottled Gas Explosives

4.0     USING EXPLOSIVES 
	  4.1      SAFETY

4.2     IGNITION DEVICES 
	  4.21    Fuse Ignition
	  4.22    Impact Ignition
	  4.23    Electrical Ignition
	  4.24    Electro - Mechanical Ignition
		4.24-1   Mercury Switches
		4.24-2   Tripwire Switches
		4.24-3   Radio Control Detonators

4.3     DELAYS 
	  4.31    Fuse Delays
	  4.32    Timer Delays
	  4.33    Chemical Delays

4.4     EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS 
	  4.41    Paper Containers
	  4.42    Metal Containers
	  4.43    Glass Containers
	  4.44    Plastic Containers

4.5     ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES 
	  4.51    Shaped Charges
	  4.52    Tube Explosives
	  4.53    Atomized Particle Explosions
	  4.54    Lightbulb Bombs
	  4.55    Book Bombs
	  4.56    Phone Bombs
 
5.0     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS 

5.1     PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) 
	  5.11    Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
	  5.12    Blowgun Ammunition
	  5.13    Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition

5.2     PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) 
	  5.21    Handgun Ammunition
	  5.22    Shotguns

5.3     PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) 
	  5.31    .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
	  5.32    .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
 
6.0     ROCKETS AND CANNONS 

6.1     ROCKETS 
	  6.11    Basic Rocket-Bomb
	  6.12    Long Range Rocket-Bomb
	  6.13    Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs

6.2     CANNONS 
	  6.21    Basic Pipe Cannon
	  6.22    Rocket-Firing Cannon

7.0     PYROTECHNICA ERRATA

	  7.1     Smoke Bombs
	  7.2     Colored Flames
	  7.3     Tear Gas
	  7.4     Fireworks
		7.4-1    Firecrackers
		7.4-2    Skyrockets
		7.4-3    Roman Candles
 
x8.0     LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION 
 
9.0     CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS 
 
10.0    USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
 
11.0    ABOUT THE AUTHOR 
	________________


2.0     BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
 
     Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a
     pharmacy.  These are two of the places that potential terrorists
     visit in order to purchase explosive material.  All that one has
     to do is know something about the non-explosive uses of the materials.
     Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms.  It comes
     in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly
     different size.  The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre
     of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too
     fast in the wrong caliber weapon.  The rule is: the smaller the grade,
     the faster the burn rate of the powder.
 
2.01    BLACK POWDER
 
     Black powder is generally available in three grades.  As stated
     before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns.  Burn
     rate is extremely important in bombs.  Since an explosion is a rapid
     increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion,
     a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black
     powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of
     what they are used in.  Generally, the fastest burning powder, the
     FFF grade is desirable.  However, the other grades and uses are listed
     below:
 
     GRADE              BORE WIDTH           EXAMPLE OF GUN 
     _____              __________           ______________ 
     F                  .50 or greater       model cannon;                                                                              some rifles 
     FF                 .36 - .50            large pistols;                                                                     small rifles 
     FFF                .36 or smaller       pistols;                                                                                   derringers 
 
 
     The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
     more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front.
     The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later.  The
     price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00.
     The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself
     time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder.  The major
     problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally
     by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture
     from the air.  To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon
     and a wooden salad bowl.  Taking a small pile at a time, he or she
     would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in
     a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard.  It is fine enough
     to use when it is about as fine as flour.  The fineness, however,
     is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously,
     it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by
     4 inch radius pipe.  Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone
     can own black powder firearms in America.
 
2.02    PYRODEX 
 
     Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder.
     It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound.
     However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material
     by volume than a pound of blackpowder.  It is much easier to crush
     to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably
     safer and more reliable.  This is because it will not be set off by
     static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb
     moisture.  It costs about $10.00 per pound.  It can be crushed in
     the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling
     water and dried.
 
2.03    ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
 
     One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry.  Estes
     is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines.  Rocket
     engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant.  This
     grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing.  One gets
     the propellant by slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it
     like a paper towel roll.  When this is done, the grey fire clay at
     either end of the propellant grain must be removed.  This is usually
     done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
     exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used.  By gripping the
     grain on the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain
     and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and
     shatter all over.  This should be done to all the large chunks of
     powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder.  Rocket
     engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the
     incredibly powerful D engines.  The larger the engine, the more
     expensive.  D engines come in packages of three, and cost about
     $5.00 per package.  Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful
     item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is,
     or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
 
2.04    RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
 
     Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
     standpoint.  They are both nitrocellulose based propellants.  They
     will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references.  Gunpowder
     is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon
     cotton.  This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed
     in the desired grain size.  When dealing with gunpowder, the grain size
     is not nearly as important as that of black powder.  Both large and
     small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder
     when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter
     and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.  Therefore,
     the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants
     is not necessary for gunpowder.  Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound.
     Any idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or
     shotguns in the U.S.
 
2.05    FLASH POWDER
 
     Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
     oxidizers.  It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should
     be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should
     NEVER be mixed.  It is sold in small containers which must be mixed
     and shaken before use.  It is very finely powdered, and is available
     in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow.  The fast flash powder is
     the best for using in explosives or detonators.  It burns very rapidly,
     regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence
     its name.  It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.  It is sold
     in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
 
2.06    AMMONIUM NITRATE
 
     Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as
     a commercial "safety explosive"   It is very stable, and is difficult
     to ignite with a match.  It will only light if the glowing, red-hot
     part of a match is touching it.  It is also difficult to detonate;
     (the phenomenon of detonation will be explained later) it requires a
     large shockwave to cause it to go high explosive.  Commercially, it
     is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitroglycerine to increase
     its sensitivity.  Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or
     "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores.  The "Cold-Paks"
     consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing
     the ammonium nitrate.  To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off
     the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save
     the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it
     is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air.
     It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
 
2.1     ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
 
     The first section deals with getting chemicals legally.  This section
     deals with "procuring" them.  The best place to steal chemicals is a
     college.  Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the
     shelves in the labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms.  Evening
     is the best time to enter lab buildings, as there are the least number
     of people in the buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked.
     One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress shirt and jeans, and tries
     to imitate a college freshman.  If anyone asks what such a person is
     doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the polymer
     chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than
     the one they are in.  One can usually find out where the various labs
     and  departments in a building are by calling the university.  There
     are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours,
     such as placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door,
     such as a back exit.  Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later
     hour.  Also, before this is done, terrorists check for security systems.
     If one just walks into a lab, even if there is someone there, and walks
     out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in the latch before the door
     closes, the person in the lab will never know what happened.  It is also
     a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob at the time
     that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is done.
     This is advisable since the would-be thief should know when and if the
     campus security makes patrols through buildings.  Of course, if none of
     these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a
     rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects
     another person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they
     are there at an odd hour.
 
2.11    TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
 
     If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
     effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer.  There are
     unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with
     these methods.  The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue
     lockpicks.  These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire.  If the
     door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there
     are other possibilities.  The rule here is: if one can see the latch,
     one can open the door.  There are several devices which facilitate
     freeing the latch from its hole in the wall.  Dental tools, stiff
     wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from beverage cans, thin
     pocket-knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade.  The way
     that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or
     otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall, and pull the
     door open.  This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using
     behind the latch, and pulling the latch out from the wall.  To make an
     aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and
     carefully cut off the can top and bottom.  Cut off the ragged ends of
     the can.  Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened
     out into a single long rectangle.  This should then be cut into inch
     wide strips.  Fold the strips in 1/4 inch increments (1).  One will
     have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide strip of aluminum.  This
     should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape.  This is
     done by folding.  The pieces would look like this:

	(1)
  
	_________________________________________________________    v 
1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    | 
1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    | 1 inch 
1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    | 
1/4     |_______________________________________________________|    | 
					     ^ 
 
     Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum.
     This should then be folded to produce an L, J,or U shaped device that
     looks like this:
	 
		      __________________________________________ 
		     /|________________________________________| 
		    | | 
		    | |       L-shaped 
		    | | 
		    | | 
		    | | 
		    |_| 
		
 
		    _____________________________ 
		    /|___________________________| 
		     | | 
		     | | J-shaped 
		     | | 
		     | |_________ 
		      \|_______| 
			  
	 
		       _____________________ 
		      /|___________________| 
		     | | 
		     | | 
		     | | U-shaped 
		     | | 
		     | | 
		     | | 
		     | |____________________ 
		      \|___________________| 
 
 
     All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and
     pull the latch out of its hole.  The folds in the lockpicks will be
     between the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if
     it is made properly.
 
2.2     LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
 
     Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,
     and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other
     dangerous compounds.  A would-be terrorist would merely need a station
     wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.

 Chemical            Used In                       Available at
 ________            _______                       ____________
 _________________________________________________________________
 alcohol, ethyl *    alcoholic beverages           liquor stores
		     solvents (95% min. for both)  hardware stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 ammonia +           CLEAR household               supermarkets,
		     ammonia                       7 - Eleven
 _________________________________________________________________
 ammonium            instant-cold                  drug stores,
 nitrate             paks, fertilizers             medical supply
						   stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 nitrous oxide       pressurizing                  party supply
		     drinks and whip cream         stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 magnesium           firestarters                  surplus stores,
						   camping stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 lecithin            vitamin?                      pharmacies,
						   drug stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 mineral oil         cooking, laxative             supermarkets,
						   drug stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 mercury @           mercury thermometers          supermarkets,
						   hardware stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 sulfuric acid       uncharged car                 automotive
						   batteries
 _________________________________________________________________
 glycerine           ?                             pharmacies,
						   drug stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 sulfur              gardening                     gardening store,
						   hardware stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 charcoal            charcoal grills,              supermarkets,
		     gardening                     gardening stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 sodium nitrate      fertilizer                    gardening store,
 _________________________________________________________________
 cellulose           first aid                     drug stores,
 (cotton)                                          medical supply
						   stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 strontium nitrate   road flares                   surplus stores,
						   auto stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 fuel oil            kerosene stoves               surplus stores,
 (kerosene)                                        camping stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 bottled gas         propane stoves                surplus stores,
						   camping stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 potassium           water purification            purification
 permanganate                                      plants
 _________________________________________________________________
 hexamine or         hexamine stoves               surplus stores
 methenamine         (camping)                     (camping stores?)
 _________________________________________________________________
 nitric acid ^       cleaning printing             printing shops
		     plates                        photography stores?
 _________________________________________________________________
 iodine &            first aid                     drug stores
 _________________________________________________________________
 sodium perchlorate  solidox pellets               hardware stores
		     for cutting torches
 _________________________________________________________________
 
Notes:

     * Ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as
       a solvent.  Methyl alcohol is very poisonous.  Solvent alcohol
       must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury
       fulminate.  Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.

     + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms.  The
       pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
       ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.

     @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately.
       They may be hard to find in most stores.  Mercury is also used
       in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
       Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the
       thermometer or mercury switch until used.  It gives off mercury
       vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled.  For this reason,
       it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it
       outdoors.  Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will
       help prevent this.
      
     ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays.  It is usually
       stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a
       later section.  A desired concentration for making explosives
       about 70%.

     & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline
       form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
       To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's
       prescription, but this can be expensive.   Once again, theft is the
       means that terrorists result to.
 
2.3     PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
 
2.31    NITRIC ACID 
      
     There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
     explosives.  One method by which it could be made will be presented.
     Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT
     EXCEPT BY EXPERIENCED PERSONNEL!!!
 
Materials:                    Equipment 
__________                    _________ 
			  
sodium nitrate                adjustable heat source 
   or                          
potassium nitrate             retort 
				    
distilled water               ice bath 
		
concentrated                  stirring rod 
   sulfuric acid  
			      collecting flask with stopper 
 

			  
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. 
 
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
   nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly.  If it all does not dissolve,
   carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
 
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place
   the collecting flask in the ice bath.
 
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat.  Continue heating until liquid
   begins to come out of the end of the retort.  The liquid that forms is
   nitric acid.  Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is
   almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming.  CAUTION: If the
   acid is heated too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as
   it is formed.  This can result in the production of highly flammable and
   toxic gasses that may explode.  It is a good idea to set the above
   apparatus up, and then get away from it.
 
     Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
     simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the
     sulfur and charcoal.  To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
     necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of
     boiling water.  Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in
     a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear.
     The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so
     when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate
     will be left in the jar.
 
2.32    SULFURIC ACID
 
     Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
     industrial plant.  However, it is readily available in an uncharged
     car battery.  A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply
     remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container.
     There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid
     which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration.  The
     concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it;
     very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.

2.33    AMMONIUM NITRATE
 
     Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive.
     It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask
     in an ice bath.  Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask
     and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed.  After the materials
     have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a
     warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid
     have evaporated.  There would be a fine powder formed, which would be
     ammonium nitrate.  It must be kept in an airtight container, because
     of its tendency to pick up water from the air.  The crystals formed in
     the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the
     remaining water.

3.0     EXPLOSIVE RECIPES

     Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
     ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN UNLESS YOU ARE EXTREMELY
     EXPERIENCED.  IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO
     OTHERWISE.  LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
     OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.

     These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual
     could conceivably produce the materials described.  The methods here
     are usually scaled-down industrial procedures.
   
3.01    EXPLOSIVE THEORY
 
     An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
     undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation.  This process releases
     energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light,
     or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger
     volume that the original piece of material.  Because this expansion
     is very rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding
     gasses.  This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of
     sound, and so a sonic boom occurs.  This explains the mechanics behind
     an explosion.  Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives
     which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may
     do both.

     High order explosives detonate.  A detonation occurs only in a high
     order explosive.  Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave
     that passes through a block of the high explosive material.  The
     shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the atoms of the
     substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound
     traveling through that material.  In a high explosive, the fuel and
     oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these
     bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.
     T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order
     explosives.
 
     Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
     When heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat,
     light, and gaseous products.  Some low order materials burn at about
     the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as
     blackpowder.  Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called
     nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they are in a confined
     space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn much slower
     than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.
     Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of
     low order explosives.
 
     Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field.  Some of them, such
     as mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive.
     They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the
     high or low explosives.  Most primers perform like a high order
     explosive, except that they are much more sensitive.  Still others
     merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate
     and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.  Primers are
     usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,
     a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell.  But, they are also
     frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; The gunpowder in a
     bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
 
3.1     IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
 
     Impact explosives are often used as primers.  Of the ones discussed
     here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives;
     Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release
     little heat and no light.  Impact explosives are always treated with
     the greatest care, and even the stupidest anarchist never stores them
     near any high or low explosives.
 
3.11    AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
 
     Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
     that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock,
     if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and
     iodine.  Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them,
     or when an ant walks across them.  Household ammonia, however, has
     enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the
     crystals will detonate when thrown, crushed, or heated.  Upon
     detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas
     appears about the detonation site.  Whatever the unfortunate surface
     that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some
     of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and
     iodine is corrosive.  It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple
     stains on whatever it contacts.  Iodine gas is also bad news, since
     it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things
     there also.  Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last
     for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed
     off.  While such a compound would have little use to a serious
     terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property.  Or,
     a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction,
     an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost
     anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a
     rather loud explosion.  Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced
     in the following manner:
 
     Materials                Equipment 
     _________                _________ 
 
     iodine crystals          funnel and filter paper 
			      paper towels 
     clear ammonia             
     (ammonium hydroxide,     two throw-away glass jars 
      for the suicidal) 
 
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.  The
   jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
 
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. 
 
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the
   funnel.  The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught
   in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half,
   so that a semi-circle is formed.  Then, fold it in half again to form
   a triangle with one curved side.  Pull one thickness of paper out to
   form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel.
 
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
   solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
 
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first
   jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
 
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter
   paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour.
   Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources
   of heat, as they could well detonate.  While they are still wet, divide
   the wet material into about eight chunks.
 
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece
   of duct tape.  Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct
   tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal
   itself.  Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of
   scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place.  They have a
   shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual
   containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly
   decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain
   whatever they settle on.  One possible way to increase their shelf life
   is to store them in airtight containers.  To use them, simply throw them
   against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or
   crushed.

3.12    MERCURY FULMINATE
 
     Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
     compounds.  It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would
     make it of infinite value to a terrorist.  Even the action of dropping
     a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode.  A person making this
     material would probably use the following procedure:
 

     MATERIALS                  EQUIPMENT 
     _________                  _________ 

     mercury (5 g)            glass stirring rod  
      
     concentrated nitric      100 ml beaker (2) 
     acid (35 ml) 
			      adjustable heat 
     ethyl alcohol (30 ml)    source 
 
     distilled water          blue litmus paper 
 
			      funnel and filter paper 
 

1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
   using the glass rod.
 
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
   solution turns green and boils.
 
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
   carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it.   Red and/or
   brown fumes should appear.  These fumes are toxic and flammable.
 
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating
   that the reaction is near completion.  After ten more minutes, add 30 ml
   of the distilled water to the solution.
 
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
   solution.  Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive
   and toxic.
 
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
   excess acid as possible.  Test the crystals with the litmus paper until
   they are neutral.   This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when
   it touches the wet crystals.
 
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away
   from any explosive or flammable material.  This procedure can also be
   done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed.  Simply use
   10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume
   of mercury.

3.13    NITROGLYCERINE
 
     Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
     the most sensitive.  Although it IS possible to make it safely, it is
     difficult.  Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured
     while trying to make the stuff.  When Nobel's factories make it,
     many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions.
     Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance,
     such as dynamite.  An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would
     use the following procedure:

     MATERIAL                 EQUIPMENT 
     ________                 _________ 
 
     distilled water          eye-dropper 
 
     table salt               100 ml beaker 
 
     sodium bicarbonate       200-300 ml beakers (2) 
 
     concentrated nitric      ice bath container 
     acid (13 ml)             (a plastic bucket serves well) 
 
     concentrated sulfuric    centigrade thermometer 
     acid (39 ml)         
 
     glycerine                blue litmus paper 
 
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. 
 
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and
   about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium
   bicarbonate dissolves.  Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the
   water so that some remains undissolved.
 
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice,
   and adding table salt.  This will cause the ice to melt, lowering
   the overall temperature.
 
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
   concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker.  Be sure that the
   beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will
   not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it.
   Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice.
   Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade
   or less.
 
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully
   add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid.  Mix the
   two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade.
   It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
 
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids,
   one drop at a time.  Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture
   where the mixed acids and glycerine meet.  DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE
   TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE
   THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!  The glycerine will start to nitrate
   immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise.
   Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the
   mixed acids.  It is always safest to make any explosive in small
   quantities.
 
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of
   nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature
   of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade.
   Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid
   solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water
   produced by the reaction.
    
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below
   30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
   nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker
   in step 1.  The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the
   beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and
   disposed of.  Drain as much of the acid-water solution as possible
   without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
 
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place
   it into the beaker in step 2.  The sodium bicarbonate solution will
   eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more
   stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do.
   Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays
   blue.  Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate
   solutions as in step 2.
 
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a
    clean container in a safe place.   The best place to store
    nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything of
    any value.  Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even
    if it is stored in a secure cool place.

3.14    PICRATES
 
     Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
     trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first,
     since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact.  By mixing
     picric acid with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium
     hydroxide, and evaporating the water, metal picrates can be formed.
     Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, and mix it with a solution
     of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range molarity.
     (about 6-9 M)  This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,
     and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
 
3.2     LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
 
     There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in stores
     and used in explosive devices.  However, it is possible that a wise
     gun store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
     individual.  Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making
     his own low-order explosives.
 
3.21    BLACK POWDER

     First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
     used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century.  It is very simple
     to make, but it is not very powerful or safe.  Only about 50% of black
     powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is
     mostly very fine burned particles.  Black powder has one major problem:
     it can be ignited by static electricity.  This is very bad, and it means
     that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools.  Anyway, a
     misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the
     following procedure:
 
     MATERIALS                   EQUIPMENT 
     _________                   _________

     potassium                clay grinding bowl
     nitrate (75 g)           and clay grinder 
	or                          or 
     sodium                   wooden salad bowl 
     nitrate (75 g)           and wooden spoon 
 
     sulfur (10 g)              plastic bags (3) 
 
     charcoal (15 g)            300-500 ml beaker (1) 
 
     distilled water          coffee pot or heat source 
 
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
   bowl and grind it to a very fine powder.  Do this to all of the potassium
   or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
 
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
   separate plastic bag.
 
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
   and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.

4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
   nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes.  Do this until there is
   no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
   black.
 
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
   Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never
   too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.

6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
   container.  Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper.
   Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone
   to generate static electricity.
 
3.22    NITROCELLULOSE
 
     Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton".  It is
     more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume
     of hot gas.  It also burns much faster than black powder when it is
     in a confined space.  Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make,
     as outlined by the following procedure:
 
     MATERIALS                EQUIPMENT 
     _________                _________ 

     cotton (cellulose)       two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
 
     concentrated             funnel and filter paper 
     nitric acid               
			      blue litmus paper 
     concentrated 
     sulfuric acid 

     distilled water 
 
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.  Add to this
   10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
 
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
   minutes.
 
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water
   to wash it in.
 
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. 
 
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready
   to be dried and stored.
 
3.23    FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
 
     There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that
     can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home.  Some are
     very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less
     effective.  A list of working fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented,
     but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum
     effectiveness.  A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of
     each fuel and oxodizer:

  oxodizer % by weight  --  fuel % by weight -- Speed # -- Notes
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 67%    sulfur 33%            5        friction/
							   impact sensitive
							   rather unstable
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 50%    sugar 35%             5        fairly slow
			    charcoal 15%                   burning;
							   unstable
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 50%    sulfur 25%            8        extremely
			    magnesium or                   unstable!!!
			    aluminum dust 25%
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 67%    magnesium or          8        unstable
			    aluminum dust 33%
  _________________________________________________________________________
  sodium nitrate 65%        magnesium dust 30%    ?        unpredictable
			    sulfur 5%                      burn rate
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium 60%             glycerine 40%         4        delay before
  permanganate                                             ignition depends
							   upon grain size
  WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium 67%             sulfur 33%            5        unstable
  permanganate
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium 60%             sulfur 20% or         5        unstable
  permanganate              magnesium or
			    aluminum dust 20%
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium 50%             sugar 50%             3        ?
  permanganate
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium nitrate 75%     charcoal 15%          7        this is
			    sulfur 10%                     black powder!!!
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium nitrate 60%     powdered iron         1        burns very hot!!!
			    or
			    magnesium 40%
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 75%    phosphorus            8        used to make
			    sesquisulfide 25%              strike-anywhere
							   matches
  _________________________________________________________________________
  ammonium perchlorate 70%  aluminum dust 30%     6        solid fuel used
			    iron oxide                     in space shuttle
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or          10       flash powder
  (sodium perchlorate)      aluminum dust 33%
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or          8        alternate
  (sodium perchlorate)      aluminum dust 20%              flash powder
			    sulfur 20% 
  _________________________________________________________________________
  barium nitrate 30%        aluminum dust 30%     9        alternate
  potassium perchlorate 30%                                flash powder
  _________________________________________________________________________
  barium peroxide 90%       magnesium dust 5%     10       alternate
			    aluminum dust 5%               flash powder
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25%            8        slightly
			    magnesium or                   unstable
			    aluminum dust 25%
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 67%    red phosphorus 27%    7        very
  calcium carbonate 3%      sulfur 3%                      unstable!!!
							   impact sensitive
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium 50%             powdered sugar 25%    7        unstable;
  permanganate              aluminum or                    ignites if
			    magnesium dust 25%             it gets wet!
  _________________________________________________________________________
  potassium chlorate 75%    charcoal dust 15%     6        unstable
			    sulfur 10%
  _________________________________________________________________________
 
  NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
	perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.  The higher
	the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER
	ignition.  Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate
	of burning.  As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of
	fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home.  By altering the
	amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be
	achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture.
 
3.24    PERCHLORATES
 
     As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
     will become a low order explosive.  Metals, however, such as potassium
     or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders.  Some
     materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust.
     To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the
     hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide.  It is
     a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very small
     amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively
     when contacted by the acid.  Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide
     are ideal.
  
3.3     HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
 
     High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
     difficulty.  The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce
     the high explosive.  Most high explosives detonate because their
     molecular structure is made up of some fuel and usually three or more
     NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) molecules.  T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is
     an excellent example of such a material.  When a shock wave passes
     through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken,
     and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microseconds.
     This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives.
     Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, several
     methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.
  
3.31    R.D.X.
 
     R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
     plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives.
     This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is
     much easier to detonate.  It should not be used alone, since it can be
     set off by a not-too severe shock.  It is less sensitive than mercury
     fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used
     alone.   R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined
     hereafter.  It is much easier to make in the home than all other high
     explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate.
 
     MATERIALS                EQUIPMENT
     _________                _________ 

     hexamine                 500 ml beaker 
       or 
     methenamine              glass stirring rod 
     fuel tablets (50 g)                           
			      funnel and filter paper 
     concentrated  
     nitric acid (550 ml)     ice bath container 
			      (plastic bucket) 
     distilled water                
			      centigrade thermometer 
     table salt 
			      blue litmus paper 
     ice 
      
     ammonium nitrate 
 
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
   carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
 
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small
   amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker.  The temperature
   will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire
   consequences could result.   Stir the mixture.
 
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding
   more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.
   Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it
   becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture,
   keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty
   minutes.

4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice.  Shake and stir the mixture,
   and allow it to melt.  Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
   dispose of the corrosive liquid.
 
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
   Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper.  Repeat
   steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue.  This will make the
   crystals more stable and safe.
 
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use.  Allow them to dry completely
   using them.  R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
 
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with
   11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin.  Kneed these material together
   in a plastic bag.  This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
 
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
   It is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.

9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it
   should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power,
   since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful.  Soduim or
   potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient
   to stabilize the R.D.X.
 
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed
    to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
 
3.32    AMMONIUM NITRATE
 
     Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the
     hap-hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a
     construction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because
     it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat.  A terrorist
     could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug store or medical
     supply store.  The major disadvantage with ammonium nitrate, from a
     terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it.  A rather powerful
     priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge.  The
     diagram below will explain.
 
	  _________________________________________  
	  |       |                               | 
  ________|       |                               |     
     |    | T.N.T.|     ammonium nitrate          | 
     |primer |booster|                            |     
     |_______|       |                            | 
	  |       |                               | 
	  |_______|_______________________________| 
 
     The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
     a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.

3.33    ANFOS
 
     ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution.  An ANFO
     solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency
     to pick up water vapor from the air.  This results in the explosive
     failing to detonate when such an attempt is made.  This is rectified
     by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or
     kerosene.  The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing
     moisture from the air.  An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set
     it off.
 
3.34    T.N.T.
 
     T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
     explosive.  Dynamite, of course, was the first.  It is certainly the
     best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early
     morning cartoons.  It is the standard for comparing other explosives
     to, since it is the most well known.  In industry, a T.N.T. is made by
     a three step nitration process that is designed to conserve the nitric
     and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product.  A terrorist,
     however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step method.
     The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong
     (fuming) sulfuric acid.   Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with
     very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath.  Cold water is added
     the solution, and it is filtered.
 
3.35    POTASSIUM CHLORATE
 
     Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
     obtained from labs.  If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount
     of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through
     it, the material will detonate with slightly more power than black
     powder.  It must, however, be confined to detonate it in this manner.
     The procedure for making such an explosive is outlined below:
 
     MATERIALS                EQUIPMENT 
     _________                _________ 

     potassium chlorate       zip-lock plastic bag 
     (9 parts, by volume) 
 
     petroleum jelly          clay grinding bowl 
     (vaseline)                      or 
     (1 part, by volume)      wooden bowl and wooden spoon 
 
1)  Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
    until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder.  The finer that it
    is powdered, the faster (better)  it will detonate.

2)  Place the powder into the plastic bag.  Put the petroleum jelly into the
    plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible,
    i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
 
3)  Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
    potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob.
    If necessary,  add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
 
4)  The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react
    to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive.  This reaction,
    however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
 
3.36    DYNAMITE
 
     The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
     Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine.
     It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to
     shock.  A misguided individual with some sanity would, after making
     nitroglycerine (an insane act) would immediately convert it to dynamite.
     This can be done by adding various materials to the nitroglycerine,
     such as sawdust.  The sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine
     per volume.  Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added,
     and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the
     power.  But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.

3.37    NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
 
     Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful.
     All that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of
     concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids.  10 ml of concentrated sulfuric
     acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated nitric acid.  To this mixture
     is added 0.5 grams of starch.  Cold water is added, and the apparently
     unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.  Nitrostarch explosives are of
     slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated.
	
3.38    PICRIC ACID
 
     Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
     explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off
     another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T.  It another explosive
     that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the
     concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids.  Its procedure for manufacture
     is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow.
     The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously
     sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate.  For
     this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium
     picrate, also called explosive D.  A social deviant would probably
     use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
     
     MATERIALS                     EQUIPMENT
     _________                     _________ 

     phenol (9.5 g)                500 ml flask 
      
     concentrated                  adjustable heat source 
     sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 
				   1000 ml beaker 
     concentrated nitric           or other container 
     acid (38 ml)                  suitable for boiling in 
 
     distilled water               filter paper 
				   and funnel 
      
				   glass stirring rod 
 
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml
   of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
 
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
   bring the water to a gentle boil.
 
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
   boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for
   about thirty minutes.  After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and
   allow it to cool for about five minutes.
 
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container
   to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section
   3.13, steps 3-4.  Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol
   in the ice bath.  Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts,
   stirring the mixture constantly.  A vigorous but "harmless" reaction
   should occur.  When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the
   flask out of the ice bath.
 
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
   tap water.  Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water,
   and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
 
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an
   ice bath until it is cold.
 
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
   solution through the filter paper in the funnel.  Collect the liquid and
   dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
	
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of
   the filter paper in the flask.  Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
 
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. 
 
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they
    will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
    spontaneously.
 
3.39    AMMONIUM PICRATE
 
     Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
     It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less
     than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate.  It is much safer than
     picric acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable
     salts when placed in metal containers.  It is simple to make from
     picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is put
     the picric acid crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in
     a great quantity of hot water.   Add clear household ammonia in excess,
     and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate.  The powder remaining should
     be ammonium picrate.
 
3.40    NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
 
     Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily
     yellow liquid.  It explodes violently when it is heated above 60
     degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an open flame or
     spark.  It is fairly simple to produce.

1)  In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.
    Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it
    remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
 
2)  Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
    hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with
    a stopper and glass pipe.
 
3)  Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of
    the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the
    beakers together.  Gently heat the bottom beaker.  When this is done,
    oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution,
    and sink down to the bottom.  At this time, remove the heat source
    immediately.   Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the
    ammonium nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker,
    but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
    The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by
    gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia.  Place the
    glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the
    ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water.
 
4)  Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
    since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
 
3.41    LEAD AZIDE
 
     Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for
     other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly
     sensitive explosive.  It does not detonate too easily by percussion
     or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire,
     or a blasting cap.  It is simple to produce, assuming that the
     necessary chemicals can be procured.  By dissolving sodium azide
     and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two materials
     are put into an aqueous state.  Mix the two be together, and apply
     a gentle heat.  Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no
     reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker
     stops forming.  Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate
     in hot water.  The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored
     wet for safety.  If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire
     acetic acid, and put lead metal in it.  Black powder bullets work well
     for this purpose.
 
3.5     OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
 
     The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be
     used to destroy property by fire.  Although none of the materials
     presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style
     results.
 
3.51    THERMIT
 
     Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate TREMENDOUS
     amounts of heat.  It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does
     not react nearly as readily.  It is a mixture of iron oxide and
     aluminum, both finely powdered.  When it is ignited, the aluminum
     burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide.  This is really
     two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of
     about 2200 degrees C.  This is half the heat produced by an atomic
     weapon.  It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,
     it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
 
     MATERIALS                                        
     _________ 

     powdered aluminum (10 g) 
 
     powdered iron oxide (10 g) 
 
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
   Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as
   homogenous as possible.  The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is
   50% / 50% by weight, and can be made in greater or lesser amounts.
 
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount
   of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of
   sulfuric acid on it.  This method and others will be discussed later
   in section 4.33.  The other method of igniting thermit is with a
   magnesium strip.  Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks
   placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited.  This is the easiest
   and most commonly used fuse for thermit firestarters.  Place the thermit
   and the sparkler-type firework in a cardboard tube.  Block each end
   allowing only the tip (about 4 to 6 inches) of the sparkler to protrude.

3.52    MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
 
     First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is
     now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide.  They are extremely
     simple to make, and can produce devastating results.  By taking any
     highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene,
     ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture
     of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make
     an effective firebomb.  After putting the flammable liquid in the
     bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
     in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly.  Then, wrap some of
     the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches
     of lose cloth to light.  Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle.
     If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on
     impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near
     the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as
     kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and
     flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition.  A mixture such
     as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
     and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish.  A mixture such
     as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown.

3.53    CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
 
     The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.
     Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid,
     which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical
     fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric
     acid and potassium chlorate.  When the container breaks, the sulfuric
     acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in
     potassium chlorate and sugar.  The paper, when struck by the acid,
     instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline.  The chance
     of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
     to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.

     MATERIALS                     EQUIPMENT
     _________                     _________ 

     potassium chlorate            glass bottle 
     (2 teaspoons)                 (12 oz.) 
 
     sugar (2 teaspoons)           cap for bottle,  
				   with plastic inside               
 
     concentrated                  cooking pan with raised 
     sulfuric acid (4 oz.)         edges 
 
     gasoline (8 oz.)              paper towels 
		  
				   glass or plastic cup 
				   and spoon 
 
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
   that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage.  If the
   acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested,
   until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found.  A glass top is
   excellent.
 
 
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. 
 
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass
   bottle.  Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw
   the cap on the bottle.  Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water.
   Set it aside to dry.
 
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons
   of sugar into the glass or plastic cup.  Add about 1/2 cup of boiling
   water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
	
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges.  Fold
   the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
   chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet.  Allow the towel to
   dry.
 
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle
   containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture.  Wrap the paper towel
   around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places.
   Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
 
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
   liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
   on top.  The two solutions will not mix.  To use the chemical fire bottle,
   simply throw it at any hard surface.
 
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP,
   WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
   CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
 
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
   and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it.  The paper towel should
   immediately burst into a white flame.
 
3.54    BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
 
     Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
     stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful
     explosion.  To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist
     would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and
     place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, and light
     the fuel and run.  Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of
     the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and in about five minutes.
     In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning
     gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion.
     Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts
     out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting.  By
     using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances
     of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be
     extinguished.  Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning
     charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way
     of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting
     of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the
     burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it.  Nitrous oxide,
     hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do
     nicely.

4.0     USING EXPLOSIVES
 
     Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
     apply them.  Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
     vandalism, to murder.  NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO
     BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL BY BEGINNERS!!!  DOING SO CAN
     LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!!!  The first step that a
     person that would use explosive would take would be to determine how
     big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to be done.
     Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with.  He would
     also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and
     determine where the best placement for it would be.  Then, it would be
     necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without
     it being discovered or moved.  Finally, he would actually have to sit
     down and build his explosive device. These are some of the topics
     covered in the next section.
 
4.1     SAFETY
 
     There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.  One can only
     speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.

4.2     IGNITION DEVICES
 
     There are many ways to ignite explosive devices.  There is the classic
     "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are
     sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between.  Generally,
     electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are
     times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it
     is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium,
     for instance, without being caught.  A device with a fuse or impact
     detonating fuse would be easier to hide.

		     
4.21    FUSE IGNITION
 
     The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
     type of simple ignition system.  By simply placing a piece of
     waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition.
     Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of
     about 2.5 seconds to the inch.  It is available as model rocketry fuse
     in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length.
     Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its
     simplicity.  All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.
     Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which
     uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle.  If a grenade ignition
     system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective.  But,
     since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to
     prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or
     lighter, but still retains its simplicity.  One such method is
     described below:
 
     MATERIALS 
     _________ 

     strike-on-cover type matches
 
     electrical tape or duct tape 
 
     waterproof fuse 
 
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure
   a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it.  With a stopwatch, press
   the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the
   watch when the fuse reaches its end.  Divide the time of burn by the
   length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per
   inch.  This will be shown below:
 
     Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
     of combustion is 20 seconds.

     20 seconds 
     ----------   = 2.5 seconds per inch. 
     8 inches     
 
 
     If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
     time by the number of seconds per inch:
 
     10 seconds 
     ------------------- = 4 inches 
     2.5 seconds / inch 
 
  NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER.  SOME
  FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE.  ALWAYS ADD THIS
  EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
 
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device
   is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse,
   and cut it off.
 
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.  Do
   not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the
   cardboard base.  Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the
   other one to make a second igniter.
 
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the
   matches touching the very end of the fuse.  Tape them there securely,
   making sure not to put tape over the match heads.  Make sure they are
   very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly.  They should
   not be able to move.
 
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse,
   making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the
   striker faces the match heads.  Tape the paper so that is fairly tight
   around the matches.  Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or
   to the matches.  Leave  enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
 
	  _____________________
	  \                   / 
	   \                 /  ------ match book cover 
	    \               / 
	     |    M|f|M ---|------- match head 
	     |    A|u|A    | 
	     |    T|s|T    | 
	     |    C|e|C    | 
	     |tapeH|f|Htape| 
	     |     |u|     | 
	     |#####|s|#####|-------- striking paper 
	     |#####|e|#####|    
	     \     |f|    / 
	      \    |u|   / 
	       \   |s|   / 
		\  |e|  /      
		|ta|f|pe|      
		|ta|u|pe| 
		   |s| 
		   |e| 
		   |f| 
		   |u| 
		   |s| 
		   |e| 
 
     The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
     The matches are taped to the fuse.  The striker will rub against the
     matcheads when the match book is pulled.
 
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper.  It should pull the
   striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.
   In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to
   the burning match heads.
 
4.22    IMPACT IGNITION
 
     Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
     terrorist activities.  The problem with an impact-detonating device
     is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not
     explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used.
     This can be done by having a removable impact initiator.  The best
     and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
     made initiators or primers.  A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms
     is one such primer.  They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost
     about $2.50.  To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that
     it will fit on.  Black powder nipples are also available in gun
     stores.  All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples
     and the caps that fit them.  Nipples have a hole that goes all the
     way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put
     the cap on.   A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
 
		    ________________ 
		    |         | 
		_   v         | 
		  | |         | 
	  ________| |^^^^^^^^|     | 
	  |       ___________|     | 
	  |    |                   | 
   no. 11 |_______|                |  
   percussion   _______            | ------- threads for screwing 
   cap here    |    |              |      nipple onto bomb       
	  |    |__________|        | 
	  |_______        |        | 
	       | |^^^^^^^^|        | 
	       |_|                 | 
		      ^            |          
		  |                | 
		  |________________| 
 
     When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
     whatever container is used to make the bomb out of.  The nipple is
     then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly.  Then, the cap
     can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown.  The
     cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple,
     to make sure that it stays in place.  The only other problem involved
     with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface
     on the nipple to set it off.  By attaching fins or a small parachute
     on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,
     should strike the ground on the primer, and explode.  Of course,
     a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact
     regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also
     likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
 
 
4.23    ELECTRICAL IGNITION
 
     Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest
     and most reliable form of ignition.  Electrical systems are ideal
     for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being
     caught.  With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one
     can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and
     be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt.  With an
     electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will
     explode, within fractions of a second.  Detonation can be aborted in
     less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the
     detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time.
     The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model
     rocketry igniters.  Blasting caps for construction also work well.
     Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost
     about $1.00 per pack.  All that need be done to use them is connect it
     to two wires and run a current through them.  Military squibs are
     difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode
     when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only
     burst into flame.  Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive
     high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with
     petroleum jelly.  Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury
     fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order
     explosive.
 
4.24    ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
 
     Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type
     of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically.
     This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices
     in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere
     near the device when it explodes.  Several types of electro-mechanical
     detonators will be discussed.
 
4.241   Mercury Switches
 
     Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
     conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a
     liquid at room temperatures.  A typical mercury switch is a sealed
     glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal.  It is
     sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging
     vapors.  The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch.
 
			 ______________  
		     A  /              \     B 
	  _______wire +______/__+        -        \    
		       \   ( Hg )  |     / 
			\ _(_Hg_)__|____/ 
				| 
				|   
			     wire - 
				| 
				| 
				| 
 
     When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches
     both contacts, current flows through the switch.  If this particular
     switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing,
     since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
     If, however, it was in the   |  position, the drop of mercury would
     only touch the + contact on the A side.   A Current, then could not
     flow, since the mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch
     is in the verticle position.  This type of switch is ideal to place
     by a door.  If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the
     verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down,
     if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.  This would tilt the
     switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
     contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
     igniter or squib in an explosive device.  Imagine opening a door and
     having it slammed in your face by an explosion.
 
4.242   Tripwire Switches
 
     A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap.  By placing a
     nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path
     of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty
     things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to
     explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb.
     The technique is simple.  By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin
     with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting
     wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be
     made,  If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between
     the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.
     When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together,
     allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil,
     thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib
     in it.  Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or
     squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode.

		    __________________________________
		    \_foil___________________________/ 
		(0) --------------------------spring  
 insert strip of  ------- _foil_____\_____________________ 
 wood with trip-    /___________\____________________\ 
 wire between foil 
 contacts 
 
      Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring,
      since the spring also conducts electricity.
 
4.243   Radio Control Detonators
 
     In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
     detonator to set off explosives.  With a good radio detonator, one can
     be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly
     when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch.
     The problem with radio detonatorsis that they are rather costly.
     However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would
     wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
     control) system and use it as a detonator.  If such an individual
     wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit
     the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
     Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do
     is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front
     wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
     elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and
     re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for
     the solenoid/motor.  The device should be tested several times with
     squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both
     he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts
     before the device became a detonator).
 
4.3     DELAYS
 
     A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is
     set up to the time that it explodes.  A regular fuse is a delay, but
     it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse.  This
     section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed
     by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but
     wants to be out of the country when it does.
 
4.31    FUSE DELAYS
 
     It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses
     for ignition.  Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette.
     An average cigarette burns for about 8 minutes.  The higher the "tar"
     and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns.  Low "tar" and
     nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine
     cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended,
     i.e. not smoked.  Depending on the wind or draft in a given place,
     a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse,
     but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
     oxygen to burn.  People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying
     fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance
     to make sure they stay lit, and to see how long it will burn.  Once a
     cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully
     putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the
     point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed.


			 |=|
			 |=| ---------- filter (butt)
			 |=|
			 |=|
			 | |
			 |o| ---------- hole for fuse
 cigarette ------------  | | 
			 | |
			 | |
			 | |
			 | |
			 | |
			 | |
			 | |
			 | |
			 |_| ---------- light this end
 

     A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a
     sheet of paper.  Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube,
     and fill it with powdered charcoal.  Punch a hole in it at the desired
     location, and insert a fuse.  Both ends must be glued closed, and
     one end of the delay must be doused with lighter fluid before it is
     lit.  Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal
     could conceivably used for igniting such a delay.  A chain of
     charcoal briquettes can be used to delay a fuse by merely lining up
     a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end,
     and lighting the first brick.  Incense, which can be purchased at
     almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be used as a
     fairly reliable delay.  By wrapping the fuse about the end of an
     incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. Finally,
     it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home.
     By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup
     of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long
     piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made.  After
     the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an
     explosive device.  Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that
     meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at
     the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse
     does not burn at a very high temperature.

     A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture
     of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of
     toilet paper.  The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that
     it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
 
4.32    TIMER DELAYS
 
     Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual
     who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal
     its location and means to disarm it.  Such a device could be placed
     in any populated place if it were concealed properly.  There are
     several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one
     contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour
     hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made.
     The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
     than an hour is desired.
 
	     _____________________                to igniter     from igniter
	    |                     |                   :                :
	    |         12          |       .............                :
	    |    11         1     |      :                             :
	    |                     |      :                             :
	    | 10               2  |      :      .......................:                       :            |          ...........|......:      :
	    |          ...........|......:      :
	    |9        /o         3|             :
	    |        /            |             :
	    |  8    /          4  |             :
	    |          o..........|....         :
	    |     7         5     |   :         :
	    |          6          |   :....+    -
	    |_____________________|      __+____-___
					|           | 
					|  battery  | 
	  o -contacts                   |           | 
	  ..... -wire                   |           | 
					|___________| 
      
     This device is set to go off in eleven hours.  When the hour hand of
     the clock reaches the contact near the numeral 6, it will complete
     the circuit, allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
     The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be
     set for a maximum time of 12 hours.  If an electronic timer is
     used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to
     24 hours are possible.  By removing the speaker from an electronic
     clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer
     with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.  To utilize this type of
     timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.  All
     that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired
     time, connect the leads, and go away.  This could also be done with an
     electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to
     the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer.  This would
     be good, since such a timer could be extremely small.  The timer in
     a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal.  VCR's can usually be
     set for times of a week or longer!  The leads from the timer to the
     recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would
     be connected to.  Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that
     would be ideal.  Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a
     relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the
     current of the watch would not have to be stepped up.

4.33    CHEMICAL DELAYS
 
     Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
     some cases.  If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric
     acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap
     that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay.  Sulfuric
     acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and
     hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end
     so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not
     break the container.


 
	       |           | 
	       |           | 
	       |           | 
	       |_______________| 
	       |           | 
	       |sulfuric   | 
	       |           | 
	       |   |acid | | 
	       |   |     | |---------- aluminum foil  
	       |   |_______ _______| |        (several thicknesses) 
	       |___________________| 
 

     The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and
     secured there with tape.  When the acid eats through the aluminum
     foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
      
     1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity.  If the acid
	that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
	underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass
	container,  a current will be able to flow through the acid when
	both of the wires are immersed in the acid.
 
     2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.  If
	the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,
	the potassium chlorate will burst into flame.  This flame can be
	used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the
	igniter for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in
	a 50/50 ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an
	igniter for the rest of the thermit.
 
     3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. 
      
4.4     EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
	
     This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker
     to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive,
     both of which are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of
     terror.
 
4.41    PAPER CONTAINERS
 
     Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
     first used by the Chinese to make fireworks.  Paper containers are
     usually very simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest.  There
     are many possible uses for paper in containing explosives, and the
     two most obvious are in firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by
     rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it together, one can
     make a simple rocket engine.  Perhaps a more interesting and dangerous
     use is in the firecracker.  The firecracker shown here is one of
     Mexican design.  It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove".  The process
     of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football.
     If one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches
     wide, and fold one corner so that it looks like this:
	______________________________________________________
       |                                                     |\ 
       |                                                     | \ 
       |                                                     |  \ 
       |_____________________________________________________|___\ 
 
      and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
 
      ____________________________________________________
     |                                                   /| 
     |                                                  / | 
     |                                                 /  | 
     |________________________________________________/___| 
 
      A pocket is formed.  This pocket can be filled with black powder,
      pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the
      quick-burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a
      fine powder.  A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the
      triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the
      explosive.  When the polumna is finished, it should be taped together
      very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,
      and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit.  The
      finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick
      triangle, like the one shown below:
 
	     ^
	    / \  ----- securely tape all corners 
	   /   \
	  /     \
	 /       \
	/         \ 
       /           \____________________________
      /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/  ---------- fuse 


4.42    METAL CONTAINERS
 
     The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
     explosive.  Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off
     the match heads.   They pound one end of a pipe closed with a
     hammer, pour in the white-tipped matches, and then pound the other
     end closed.  This process often kills the fool, since when he
     pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause enough friction
     between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the
     unfinished bomb.  By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer,
     and the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in
     a bomb.  He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).
     First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so
     that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during
     handling.  The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the
     bomb.  He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,
     possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight.  He
     would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb.  To pack it tightly,
     he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe
     to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod
     tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it
     would not move any further.  Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap
     on, and glue it.  The tissue paper would help prevent some of the
     powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe cap from
     being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,
     causing an explosion during manufacture.  An assembled bomb is
     presented in fig. 2.
	   _______                                _______
	  |       |              pipe---         |       |
	  | vvvvvv|                    |         |vvvvvv |
	  | | ^^^^^^____________________________^^^^^^ | |
	  | | :                                      : | |
  cap --->| | :                                      : | |
	  | | :                                      : | |
	  | | :                                      : | |
	  | | :                                      : | |<--- cap
	  | | :     ____________________________     : | |
	  | | vvvvvv                            vvvvvv | |
	  | ^^^^^^|                              |^^^^^^ |
	  |_______|                              |_______|


     fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.

	   ______                                  ______
	  | _____|________________________________|_____ | 
	  | |__________________________________________| | 
	  | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | 
	  | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|              *
	  | | : : :  |- - - low order explosive - - ===================***
	  | | paper  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|              *
	  | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |    fuse 
	  | |__________________________________________| | 
	  | |__________________________________________| | 
	  |______|                                |______|
			       pipe
	  endcap                                   endcap
						   w/ hole
 
     fig. 2  Assembled pipe bomb. 

 
     This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use.  If, however,
     he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always
     use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into
     a suitable position.  A major problem with copper piping, however, is
     bending and folding it without tearing it; if too much force is used
     when folding and bending copper pipe, it will split along the fold.
     The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe
     is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens
     one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to
     tear or rip the piping.  Then, the flat end of the pipe should be
     folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe.  A fuse hole
     should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse
     should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with
     a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper.
     He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair
     of pliers.  If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the
     process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set
     off the explosive.  A diagram is presented below:
						     _______
      ______________________________________________/       |
     |                                                      | 
     |                                             o        | 
     |______________________________________________        | 
						    \_______|
 
     fig. 1  pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) 

						  _____
      ___________________________________________/  |  |
     |                                              |  | 
     |                                           o  |  | 
     |___________________________________________   |  | 
						 \__|__|
 
     fig. 2  pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) 
 
					     _________ fuse hole
					     :
					     V
      _______________________________________ ___   _____
     |                                           \ |____ |
     |                                            \____| |
     |                                             ______|
     |                                            /
     |___________________________________________/ 
 
     fig. 3  pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) 

						____________ fuse
					       /
					       |
       ______    ______________________________|___   ______
      |  ____|  /     |- - - - - - - - - - - - | - \ |____  |
      |  |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | 
      |________ paper |- - -  low order explosive -  _______|
	       \      | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
		\__________________________________/
  
 
     fig. 4  completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive 
		(side view)
 
     A CO2 cartridge from a B.B. gun is another excellent container for a
     low-order explosive.  It has one minor disadvantage: it is time
     consuming to fill.  But this can be rectified by widening the opening
     of the cartridge with a pointed tool.  Then, all that would have to
     be done is to fill the CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive,
     or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a
     fuse.  These devices are commonly called "crater makers",
     "gang blasters" or "block busters".  They are VERY reliable and
     fairly safe.
 
     A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit
     incendiary device, but it must be modified.  The opening in the
     end must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered
     magnesium, does not explode.  The fuse will ignite the powdered
     magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit.  The previously
     mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-order
     explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since
     the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated.  A design employing
     a smaller low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing
     a high-order explosive would probably be used.  It would look
     something like:
 
					  _______________________  fuse
					 |    
					 |    
					 |    
       _______                           |            _______
      |   ____|__________________________|___________|____   | 
      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * *: | :* * * * * *  |   |
      |   |  * * * * * high explosive* : | : * * * * * * |   |
      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * *: | :* * * * * *  |   |
      |   |  *   ____     ______________\|/     ____   * |   |
      |   | * * |  __|   /   - - - - - - | \   |__  | *  |   | 
      |   |  *  |  |____/   low explosive - \____|  |  * |   |
      |   | * * |_______  - - - - - - - - -  _______| *  |   | 
      |   |  * * * * *  \  - - - - - - - -  /  * * * * * |   | 
      |   | * * * * * *  \_________________/  * * * * *  |   | 
      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   | 
      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  |   | 
      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   | 
      |   |______________________________________________|   | 
      |_______|                                      |_______|
 
 
     If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2
     cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made
     into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and
     inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
 
4.43    GLASS CONTAINERS
 
     Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but
     there are problems with them.  First, a glass container can be
     broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic containers.
     Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person
     making the device would probably be seriously injured, even if the
     device was small.  A bomb made out of a sample perfume bottle-sized
     container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still has pieces
     of glass in his hand.  He is also missing the final segment of his
     ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
 
     Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used
     by a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected
     by metal detectors in an airport or other public place.  All that
     need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in the plastic
     cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.

	      ________________________  fuse
	      |
	      |
	      |
	  ____|_____
	 | ___|___  |
	 | >  |   < |  drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
	 | >  |   < |  be sure fuse will not come out of cap
	 | >  |   < |
	 |/   |    \|
	 |          |  screw cap on bottle
	 |          |
	 V          V
 
	   ________
	  <        > 
	  <        > 
	  <        > 
	   /      \
	  /        \ 
	 /          \ 
	|            |  fill bottle with low-order explosive 
	|- - - - - - |
	| - - - - - -|
	|- - - - - - |
	| - - - - - -|
	|__________|
 
     Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,
     since glass is NOT an exceptionally strong container.  Much of the
     explosive that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container
     is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle.  Also, glass containers are
     usually unsuitable for high explosive devices, since a glass container
     would probably not withstand the explosion of the initiator; it would
     shatter before the high explosive was able to detonate.  The BEST glass
     cased bombs are VERY small (bottles for purfume, hobby paints, etc.)
     and use a low order explosive.  Keep it in mind.  Waste not, want not!!!
 
4.44    PLASTIC CONTAINERS
 
     Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives,
     since they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass.
     Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a
     device much like the ones used for metal containers can be made.
     The high-order version works well with plastic piping.  If the
     entire device is made out of plastic, it is not detectable by metal
     detectors.  Plastic containers can usually be shaped by
     heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place.  They
     can be glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics.  Epoxy
     alone can be used as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed
     in the piping.  Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type
     of device.
 
 
	       ||               || 
	       ||               || 
	       ||\_____________/|| 
	       ||               || 
	       ||     epoxy     || 
	       ||_______________|| 
	       ||               || 
	       ||    tissue     || 
	       ||     paper     || 
	       ||_______________|| 
	       ||***************|| 
	       ||***************|| 
	       ||***************|| 
	       ||***************|| 
	       ||** explosive **|| 
	       ||***************|| 
	       ||***********<<<-----------------------  fuse
	       ||***************|| 
	       ||_______________|| 
	       ||               || 
	       ||    tissue     || 
	       ||     paper     || 
	       ||_______________|| 
	       ||               || 
	       ||     epoxy     || 
	       || _____________ || 
	       ||/             \|| 
	       ||               || 
	       ||               || 
 
     One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before
     the device can be filled with powder and fused.  Then, with another
     piece of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with
     plenty of epoxy.  PVC pipe works well for this type of device, but it
     cannot be used if the pipe had an inside diameter greater than 3/4
     of an inch.  Other plastic puttys can be used in this type of device,
     but epoxy with a drying agent works best.

4.5     ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
 
     The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
     who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives.  Some of
     this information comes from demolitions books, or from military
     handbooks.  Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped
     charges, or utilize a minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum
     amount of damage.  They almost always involve high-order explosives.
 
4.51    SHAPED CHARGES

     A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs
     the explosive force of detonation at a small target area.  This
     process can be used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of
     literally millions of pounds of pressure per square inch can be
     generated.  Shaped charges employ high-order explosives, and usually
     electric ignition systems.  KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL EXPLOSIVES ARE
     DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED BY BEGINNERS!!!

     An example of a shaped charge is shown below.

		 + wire ________           _______ - wire
				|         | 
				|         | 
				|         | 
 _                    __________|_________|____________ 
 ^                    | ________|_________|__________ | 
 |                    | |       |         |         | |
 |                    | |       \ igniter /         | |
 |                    | |        \_______/          | |
 |                    | |     priming charge        | | 
 |                    | |   (mercury fulminate)     | | 
 |                    | |             ^             | | 
 |                    | |            /*\            | |
 |                    | |           /* *\           | |
 |                    | |          /* * *\          | |
 |                    | |         /* * * *\         | |
 |                    | |        /* * * * *\        | |
 |                    | |       /* * * * * *\       | |
		      | |      /* * * * * * *\      | |
 8 inches high        | |     /* * * * * * * *\     | |
		      | |    /* * *  high * * *\    | |
 |                    | |   /* * * explosive * *\   | |
 |                    | |  /* * * * charge  * * *\  | |
 |                    | | /* * * * * * * * * * * *\ | |
 |                    | |/* * * * * * * * * * * * *\| |
 |                    | |* * * * * * *^* * * * * * *| |
 |                    | | * * * * * */ \* * * * * * | |
 |                    | |* * * * * */   \* * * * * *| |
 |                    | | * * * * */     \* * * * * | |
 |                    | |* * * * */       \* * * * *| |
 |                    | | * * * */         \* * * * | |
 |                    | |* * * */           \* * * *| |
 |                    | | * * */             \* * * | |
 |                    | |* * */               \* * *| |
 |                    | | * */                 \* * | | ------- 1/2 inch thick
 |                    | |* */                   \* *| |         steel pipe
 |                    | | */                     \* | |
 |                    | |*/                       \*| |
 |                    | |/                         \| | 
 |   hole for         | |                           | |     hole for 
 |    screw           | |                           | |      screw  
 |                    | |                           | |      
 |______    __________| |                           | |___________   ______
 |______|  |____________|                           |_____________| |______| 
 
 |<------------------------------ 8 inches ------------------------------->|
 
     If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
     direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from
     the opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped
     opening in the explosive material.  This cone should have an angle of
     45 degrees.  A device such as this one could also be attached to a
     metal surface with a powerful electromagnet.
 
4.52    TUBE EXPLOSIVES
 
     A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that
     shaped charges cannot.  If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled
     with a sensitive high explosive such as R.D.X., and prepared as the
     plastic explosive container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped
     charge could be produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a
     circular manner.  This type of explosive could be wrapped around a
     column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. The explosion would be
     directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped
     around.  In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like this:
 
	       ||      ||
	       ||      || 
	       ||\____/|| 
	       || epoxy|| 
	       ||______|| 
	       ||      || 
	       ||tissue|| 
	       || paper|| 
	       ||______|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       || RDX  || 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||******|| 
	       ||  __  ||
	       || | s| || 
	       || | q| || 
	       || | u| || 
	       || | i| || 
	       || | b| || 
	       || | b| || 
	       || |__| || 
	       ||__||__|| 
	       ||tissue|| 
	       || paper|| 
	       ||__||__|| 
	       ||  ||  || 
	       || epoxy|| 
	       ||  ||  || 
	       || _||_ || 
	       ||/ || \|| 
	       ||  ||  ||
	       ||  ||  || 
		   ||_______ + wire ______________ 
		   | 
		   |________ - wire ______________ 
 
     When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap
     it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of
     the tube bomb together.  After it dries, he/she can connect wires to
     the squib wires, and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric
     detonation.
 
4.53    ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
 
     If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very
     small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area,
     an explosion similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile
     is produced.  The tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the
     hot gasses expand rapidly, pushing the cylinder up.  Similarly, if a
     gallon of gasoline was atomized and ignited in a building, it is very
     possible that the expanding gassed would push the walls of the building
     down.   This phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion.  If
     a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable
     substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,
     or other structure.  Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example,
     can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive.
     If a gallon jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive
     charge, and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be
     atomized and ignited.  If this occurred in a building, for example, an
     atomized particle explosion would surely occur.  Only a small amount of
     high explosive would be necessary to accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a
     pound of T.N.T., or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.   Also, instead of gasoline,
     powdered aluminum could be used.  It is necessary that a high explosive
     be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion
     does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable
     material.
 
4.54    LIGHTBULB BOMBS
 
     An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
     light.  This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the
     overhead light socket.  A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.
     It also comes with its own initiator and electric ignition system.
     On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal
     base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that
     of a blowtorch or gas stove.  This must be done carefully, since the
     inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum.  When the glue gets hot enough, the
     glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base.  On other bulbs, it is
     necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene
     torch.  When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in
     the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb.  In either
     case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or
     lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as
     black powder.  Another good substitute for black powder in a light
     bulb bomb is a mixture of gasoline and liquid dish soap.  The gasoline
     provides your fuel and when mixed with the soap it will burn MUCH
     longer.  The soap also allows the burning mixture to stick to
     EVERYTHING it touches and provides a very messy fire.

     If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be
     glued back on to the base with epoxy.  If a hole was put in the bulb,
     a piece of duct tape or dollop of epoxy is sufficient to hold the
     explosive in the in the bulb.  Then, after making sure that the socket
     has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
     done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket.  Such a device
     has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since
     nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on the
     light.
 
4.55    BOOK BOMBS
 
     Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
     perpetrators of violence run wild.  Bags and briefcases are often
     searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual
     might intend to set off a bomb.  One approach to disguising a bomb is
     to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is
     entirely contained inside of a book.  Usually, a relatively large book
     is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any
     protrusions of a bomb.  Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and
     other such books work well.  When an individual makes a bookbomb,
     he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place
     where the book bomb will be placed.  The actual construction of a book
     bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
     saw.  First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together.  By
     pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket,
     and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can
     be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly.  After
     the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the
     solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed
     in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked.
     It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck
     to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.  Suspending the
     book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works
     best.  When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole
     must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out
     much like wood.  Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the
     pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the
     individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages.  The pages,
     when drilled out, should look like this:
 
		______________________
	       |  __________________  |
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |      empty       | |
	       | |      space       | |
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |                  | | 
	       | |__________________| | 
	       |______________________| 
 
		(book covers omitted) 
 
     This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
     After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio
     controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book.  The bomb
     itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in
     foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about.  Finally, after
     the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front
     cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination.

4.56    PHONE BOMBS
 
     The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past
     to kill or injure a specific individual.  The basic idea is simple:
     when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes.  If a small but
     powerful high explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone
     receiver, when the current flowed through the receiver, the squib
     would explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's hand.
     Nasty.  All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the
     receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the
     speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. Place a high
     explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,
     and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by
     the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.  When the
     individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he
     will notice the tape, and remove it.  This will allow current to flow
     through the squib.  Note that the device will not explode by merely
     making a phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver,
     and remove the tape.  It is highly probable that the phone will be
     by his/her ear when the device explodes...
 
5.0     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
 
     Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social
     deviant's arsenal.  Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage
     over individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good
     enough to kill.  Special ammunition can be made for many types of
     weapons, from crossbows to shotguns.

5.1     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
 
     For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon
     primitive that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile
     forward.   This means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.
 
5.11    BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
 
     Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition.  It is
     extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult
     matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts.  If, however, one can
     acquire aluminum piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or
     crossbow bolt, the entire segment of piping can be converted into an
     explosive device that detonates upon impact, or with a fuse.  All that
     need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and diameter,
     and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy.  Fill the tube with
     any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to
     about 1/2 an inch from the top.  Cut a slot in the piece of tubing,
     and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making
     sure to leave a small hole.  Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the
     hole, and secure it with super glue.  Finally, wrap the end of the
     device with electrical or duct tape, and make fins out of tape.  Or,
     fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and glued to the shaft.
     The finished product should look like:

		___
	       |   | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap 
	       ||*|| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| ----------- aluminum piping 
		|*| 
		|e| 
		|x| 
		|p| 
		|l| 
		|o| 
		|s| 
		|i| 
		|v| 
		|e| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
		|*| 
	       /|_|\ 
	      / |t| \ 
	      | |p| | 
	      | |_| | 
	      | |e| | -------- fins 
	      | |p| | 
	      | |y| | 
	      |_|_|_| 
		|_| 
	  
     tp: tissue paper 
 
     epy: epoxy 
 
     When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap
     explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
 
5.12    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
 
     The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.
     A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an
     explosive or poisoned projectile.  The manufacture of an explosive
     dart or projectile is not difficult.  Perhaps the most simple design
     for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that
     are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule could easily
     be opened, and the medicine removed.  Next, the capsule would be
     re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive.  An additional high
     explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive,
     if one of the larger capsules were used.  Finally, the explosive capsule
     would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued
     to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the
     impact-detonating explosive struck the target first.  Such a device
     would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel
     or cotton, and look something like this:
 
		 ___________________
		/mercury |          \----------------------- 
	       (fulminate|   R.D.X.  )---------------------- } tassels
		\________|__________/-----------------------
 
5.13    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
 
     A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon.  It can throw a shooter
     marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy.  Inside of 200 ft.,
     it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a
     vital area.  Because of the relatively large sized projectile that
     can be used in a wristrocket, the  wristrocket can be adapted to
     throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of
     aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by
     filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material.  Also, such
     a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a
     fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot.  One would have
     to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the
     device did not explode before it reached its intended target.
     Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22
     caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for
     wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range,
     because of their light weight.
 
5.2     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
 
     When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
     rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a
     small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive
     ammunition, but that can be difficult to do.  Such ammunition can
     also be manufactured in the home.  There is, however, a risk involved
     with modifying any ammunition.  If the ammunition is modified
     incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest
     bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur.  For
     this reason, NOBODY WITHOUT PROPER EXPERIENCE SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO
     MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION!!!
 
5.21    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
 
     If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her
     handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an
     impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools.  One would first
     purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an
     impact-detonating explosive.  By drilling a hole in a lead
     bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement
     of an explosive.  After filling the hole with an explosive, it
     would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle.
     A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below.
 
	     _o_ ------------ drop of wax 
	    /|*|\ 
	   | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive 
	   | |_| | 
	   |_____| 
 
     This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. 
 
5.22    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
 
     Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create
     some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns.  If
     a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot is removed, the
     shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth,
     lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the
     shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons.
     Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without
     the shot in the firing chamber.  Mark the dowel about six inches away
     from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.  Next,
     decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used.
     This device can be a chemical fire bottle (see sect. 3.43), a pipe
     bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42).  After the
     device is made, it must be securely attached to the  dowel.  When this
     is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun.  The bomb or incendiary
     device should be on the end of the dowel.  Make sure that the device
     has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun.  If the
     projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible.
     A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below.
		___
	       ||  | 
	       ||  | 
	       ||  | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel 
	       ||  | 
	       ||__| 
	       || | 
	       || | ------- fuse 
	       || | 
	       || *
	       || 
	       || 
	       || --------- dowel 
	       || 
	       || 
	       || 
	       || 
	       || 
	       || --------- insert this end into shotgun 
 
5.3     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
 
     This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
     compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B. guns,
     CO2 B.B. guns, and .22 cal pellet guns.  These weapons, although
     usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous
     weapons.
 
5.31    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
 
     A B.B. gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle
     or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile
     with a caliber of .177, either B.B., or lead pellet.  Such guns can
     have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle.
     Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an
     impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber
     of .177.  Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use
     primers to ignite the powder in the bullet.  These primers can be
     bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own
     bullets.  Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a
     gun.  They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at
     a great speed.  Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177
     caliber gun.  If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate
     when the gun is fired at a hard surface.  If such a primer is attached
     to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the
     tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B.
     gun.  A diagram of such a projectile appears below.
 
	      _____ primers _____
	     |                   |
	     |                   |
	     |                   |
	     V                   V
	   _____                _____
	  | ________________________ |------------------- 
	  | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or  
	  | ________________________ |-------------------   cotton 
	  |_____                _____|-------------------
		    ^ 
		    | 
		    | 
		    |_______ antenna tubing 
 
     The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.
     The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is
     glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to
     the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front
     primer.  The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long.

5.32    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
 
     A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
     close ranges.  Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles
     can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles.  A design similar
     to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are
     about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section
     5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder
     percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are
     percussion caps that are about .22 caliber.  A #11 cap is too small,
     but anything larger will do nicely.
	
6.0     ROCKETS AND CANNONS
 
     Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
     Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because
     they are difficult or impossible to acquire.  They are not, however,
     impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder
     or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large
     rocket is, indeed, something to fear.
 
6.1     ROCKETS
 
     Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
     before Christ.  They were used for entertainment, in the form of
     fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because
     they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable.  In modern times,
     however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are
     cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence,
     fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or
     buy rocket engines.  Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space
     age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required.  Estes, a
     subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets
     and rocket engines.   Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine,
     can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively
     large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies,
     such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up
     to 30 lbs. of thrust.  These model rocket engines are quite reliable,
     and are designed to be fired electrically.  Most model rocket engines
     have three basic sections.  The diagram below will help explain them.
 
      _________________________________________________________
     |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard 
     \  clay  | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c|           casing 
      \_______|  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * |  . . . |l| 
       _______  - - - thrust - - -  | smoke | eject  |a| 
      / clay  |  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * | . . . .|y| 
     /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ 
     |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
					      casing 
 
     The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted.  When the area
     labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large
     single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns,
     forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow
     nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been
     consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited.  It is usually
     a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various
     compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white,
     or yellow in color.  This section exists so that the rocket will be
     seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.  When it is
     burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject".  The
     ejection charge is finely powdered black powder.  It burns very
     rapidly, exploding, in effect.  The explosion of the ejection charge
     pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be
     used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own
     peculiar labeling system.  Typical engine labels are:
     1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5.  The letter is an
     indicator of the power of an engine.  "B" engines are twice as
     powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful
     as "B" engines, and so on.  The number following the letter is
     the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and
     letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of
     engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a
     3 second delay. NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant
     can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a
     very small amount of iron oxide.  The mixture is bound together by
     an epoxy.
 
6.11    BASIC ROCKET BOMB
 
     A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered
     to its target by means of a rocket.  Most people who would make such
     a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device.  By
     cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket
     engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be
     constructed.  Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge
     bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added.  To insure that the
     fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over
     the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic
     tool.  The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as
     shown below.
	   __________ rocket engine
	  |                                       _________ crater maker
	  |                                      |
	  |                                      |
	  V                                      |
      _______________________________            V
     |_______________________________|  ______________________ 
      \   | - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___ /# # # # # # # # # # # \
       \__| - - - - - -|***|::::|        # # # # # # # # # # # \
	__  - - - - - -|***|::::|===fuse=== # #  explosive  # # )
       /  | - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___   # # # # # # # # # # # / 
      /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/  
     |_______________________________|  
 
     thrust> - - - - - - 
     smoke>  *** 
     ejection charge> :::: 
 
     Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
     engine.   Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the
     ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be
     attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device,
     or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued
     to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight.  The
     fins should look like this:
 
	  |\ 
	  | \ 
	  |  \ 
	  |   \  <--------- glue this to rocket engine 
	  |    \ 
	  |     \ 
	  |      \ 
	  |       | 
	  |       | 
	  |       | 
leading   |       |
 edge     |       |
   -----> |       |
	  |       |  
	  |       |  trailing edge 
	  |       |    <-------- 
	  |       | 
	  |       | 
	  |       | 
	  |       |    
	   \_____/ 
 
     The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so
     that they are rounded.  This will help make the rocket fly straight.
     A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the
     rocket to launch it from.  A clothes hanger can be cut and made into
     a launch rod.  The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the
     rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket.  A front view
     of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.

		     | 
		     | 
		     | 
	   fin       | <------ fin 
	    |        |         | 
	    |        |         | 
	    |      __|__       |
	    V     /     \      V 
   ---------------|  *  |---------------
		  \_____/ 
		     |o <---------- segment of plastic straw 
		     | 
		     | 
		     | <------ fin 
		     | 
		     | 
		     |

     By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a
     launch rod can be made.  After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the
     rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the
     segment of plastic straw.  The rocket should slide easily along the
     coathanger.
 
		       ____
		      /    \
		     |      |
     cut here        |
	    |         |
	    |          \_
	    |          / \
	    V         /   \
    _________________/     \________________ 
   /                                        \
  /                                          \
 /____________________________________________\ 
					^
					|
					|
			 and here ______|
 
 
     Bend wire to this shape: 
 
	
			  _______ insert into straw
			 | 
			 | 
			 | 
			 V 
	  ____________________________________________ 
	  \ 
	   \ 
	    \ 
	     \ 
	      \  <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle 
	       | 
	       | 
	       | 
	       | 
	       | 
	       | <---------- put this end in ground 
	       | 
 

6.12    LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
 
     Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.  Model
     rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
     multi-stage rockets.  An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent
     example of such an engine.  Immediately after the thrust period is
     over, the ejection charge explodes.  If another engine is placed
     directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the
     ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the
     nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This
     will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall
     loss of weight.  The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that
     it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity.  A multi-stage
     rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage
     rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly straight, its center of
     gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.  This is accomplished by
     adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of
     drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket.
     A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears below:
		    ___ 
		   /   \ 
		   |   | 
		   | C | 
		   | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker 
		   |   | 
		   |   | 
		   |___| 
		   |   | 
		   |   | 
		   |   | 
		   | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine 
		  /| 6 |\ 
		 / | | | \ 
		/  | 5 |  \ 
	       /   |___|   \ ---- fin 
	      /   /|   |\   \ 
	     /   / |   | \   \ 
	    /   /  |   |  \   \ 
	   /   /   | C |   \   \ 
	  |   /    | 6 |    \   | 
	  |  /     | | |     \  | 
	  | /      | 0 |      \ | 
	  |/       |___|       \| 
	  |       /     \       | 
	  \______/   ^   \______/ ------- fin 
		     | 
		     | 
		     | 
		     | 
		     C6-0 rocket engine 
 
     The fuse is put in the bottom engine. 
 
     Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give
     it a longer range.  It is important, however, that for each additional
     stage, the fin area gets larger.
 
6.13    MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
 
     "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle.  The concept is
     simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile.  This
     can be done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to
     make crater-makers and can buy rocket engines.  By attaching crater
     makers with long fuses to a rocket, it is possible that a single rocket
     could deliver several explosive devices to a target.  Such a rocket
     might look like this:
 
	      ___ 
	     /   \ 
	     |   | 
	     | C | 
	     | M | 
	     |___| 
	    _|   |_
	   / |   | \
	  |  | T |  | 
	 / \ | U | / \ 
	/   \| B |/   \ 
	|   || E ||   | 
	| C ||   || C | 
	| M ||   || M | 
	|   ||___||   | 
	\___/| E |\___/ 
	     | N | 
	    /| G |\ 
	   / | I | \ 
	  /  | N |  \ 
	 /   | E |   \ 
	/    |___|    \ 
       / fin/  |  \ fin\ 
      |    /   |   \    | 
       \__/    |    \__/ 
	       ^
		\____ fin
 
     The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape.
     The paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece
     of paper. The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder
     or black powder. Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the
     crater makers are inserted in these holes.  A crater maker is glued to
     the open end of the tube, so that its fuse is inside the tube.  A fuse
     is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom engine if the rocket bomb
     is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the coathanger launcher,
     if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it.
 
6.2     CANNON
 
     The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th
     century.  It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,
     loaded, and fired.  Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each
     shot, otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired,
     causing the barrel to explode.  A sociopath could build a cannon without
     too much trouble, if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.

6.21    BASIC PIPE CANNON
 
     A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone.  The
     only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its
     interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may
     jam.  Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must
     also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the
     expanding hot gasses in a cannon.  If one uses a projectile such as a
     CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe
     that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal.  Such a pipe MUST have walls
     that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the
     interior.  If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.  Otherwise, the
     pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the
     pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or
     endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two
     teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly
     by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2
     cartridge.  Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light
     the fuse, and run.  If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged
     the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel.  Such
     a cannon would look like this:
 
		 __________________ fuse hole
		|
		|
		V
      __________ _____________________________________________________
     | |________ _____________________________________________________|
     |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge   
     |  _____|______|____|____________________________________________
     |_|______________________________________________________________| 
 
     An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a
     CO2 cartridge.  It is relatively simple to do.  Just make a crater
     maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch
     from the end of the cartridge.  Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape,
     covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end.  Put this
     in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad.  When the
     cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the
     CO2 cartridge.  The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about
     three seconds, if all goes well.   Such a projectile would look like
     this:
 
 
	   ___ 
	  /   \ 
	  |   | 
	  | C | 
	  | M | 
	  |   | 
	  |   | 
	  |\ /| 
	  | | | ---- tape 
	  |_|_| 
	    | ------ fuse 
 
6.22    ROCKET FIRING CANNON
 
     A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the
     only difference is the ammunition.  A rocket fired from a cannon will
     fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it
     overcomes the initial inertia.  A rocket that is launched when it is
     moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary.
     Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have
     no fins.  It would look like this:
 
	   ___ 
	  /   \ 
	  |   | 
	  | C | 
	  | M | 
	  |   | 
	  |   | 
	  |___| 
	  | E | 
	  | N | 
	  | G | 
	  | I | 
	  | N | 
	  | E | 
	  |___| 
 
     The fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not
     be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded.  Thus, the
     delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before
     the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the
     burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and imultaneously push the
     rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity.
 
7.0     PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
 
     There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of
     violence might employ.  Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores,
     and large military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and
     military magazines.  Finally, fireworks can also be used as weapons
     of terror.  A large aerial display rocket would cause many injuries
     if it were to be fired so that it landed on the ground near a crowd
     of people.  Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which consists
     of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running through
     it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
     high explosive.  Tear gas is another material that might well be
     useful to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly
     disseminated over a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with
     nasty effects.
 
7.1     SMOKE BOMBS
     One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist
     in many ways would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the
     getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover.  Such a
     device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could
     force the evacuation of a building, for example.  Smoke bombs are not
     difficult to make.  Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered
     white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually
     unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she
     would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.  Most homemade smoke
     bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder
     or pyrodex, to support combustion.  The base material will burn well,
     and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
     burn, but not completely or cleanly.  Table sugar, mixed with sulfur
     and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke.  Sawdust,
     especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder
     works well also.  Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces
     of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures.  The
     material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a
     base powder produces much smoke.  Most of the fuel-oxodizer mixtures,
     if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base
     powder.  The list of possibilities goes on and on.  The trick to a
     successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used.  A plastic
     cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced.  The hole
     in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow
     the material to burn without causing an explosion.  This is another
     plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the
     smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent
     an explosion.
 
7.2     COLORED FLAMES
 
     Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists.
     By putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket,
     when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball.
     The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear
     below.
 
 
 COLOR               MATERIAL                 USED IN
 _____               ________                 _______
 ___________________________________________________________
 red                 strontium                road flares,
		     salts                    red sparklers
		     (strontium nitrate)
 ____________________________________________________________
 green               barium salts             green sparklers
		     (barium nitrate)
 ____________________________________________________________
 yellow              sodium salts             gold sparklers
		     (sodium nitrate)
 ____________________________________________________________
 blue                powdered copper          blue sparklers,
		     old pennies
 ____________________________________________________________
 white               powdered magnesium       firestarters,
		     or aluminum              aluminum foil
 ____________________________________________________________
 purple              potassium permanganate   purple fountains,
					      treating sewage
 ____________________________________________________________
 
7.3     TEAR GAS
 
     A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could
     use it with ease against a large number of people.  Tear gas is
     fairly complicated to make, however, and this prevents such
     individuals from being able to utilize its great potential for
     harm.  One method for its preparation is shown below.
 
      EQUIPMENT
      _________

     1.  ring stands (2) 
     2.  alcohol burner 
     3.  erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 
     4.  clamps (2) 
     5.  rubber stopper 
     6.  glass tubing 
     7.  clamp holder 
     8.  condenser 
     9.  rubber tubing 
     10.  collecting flask 
     11.  air trap 
     12.  beaker, 300 ml  
      
     MATERIALS 
     _________ 

     10 gms  glycerine 
      
     2 gms sodium bisulfate 
 
     distilled water 
 
  1)  In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms
      of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
 
  2)  Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
 
  3)  The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.
 
  4)  When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a
      brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.
      Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is
      corrosive.
 
  5)  The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the
      collecting flask is tear gas.  It must be capped tightly, and stored
      in a safe place.
 
7.4  FIREWORKS
 
     While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror,
     they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries.  There are
     several basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether
     for fun, profit, or nasty uses.
 
7.41 FIRECRACKERS 
 
     A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.  The
     instructions are below:
 
     1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
	"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
	
     2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it
	with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of
	the tubing.  Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
	specified on the package.
 
     3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
	insert a desired length of fuse.
 
     4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive.  Flash
	powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
	nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures
	will do nicely.  Fill the tube almost to the top.
 
     5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper
	and a pencil or other suitable ramrod.  Be sure to leave enough
	space for more epoxy.
      
     6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and
	allow it to dry.
	
     7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use
	flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
	colors.  By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
	to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the
	sparkler.   By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device
	will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the
	sparkler.  By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be
	produced.  White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,
	or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
 
	Example:  Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
	with a red flash, and throw out white sparks.  First, I would take
	a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it.   Or, I
	could take a red sparkler, and finely  powder it.  Then, I would
	mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder.
	(NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED
	WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!!!)  I would mix it in a ratio of
	9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and
	add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the
	material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make
	sure that the stuff doesn't react.  Then, in the morning, I would
	test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put
	it in the firecracker.


 
     8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
	professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.

7.42    SKYROCKETS
      
     An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home
     from model rocket engines.  Estes engines are recommended.
 
     1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering
     that the power doubles with each letter.  (See sect. 6.1 for details)
	 
     2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly
     fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper
     and glue.
 
     3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the
     powder is exposed.  Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube
     covers at least half the engine.  Pour a small charge of flash powder
     in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
 
     4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
     various types of effects can be produced.
 
     5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the
     tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be
     produced.
 
     6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with
     the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
 
7.43    ROMAN CANDLES
 
     Roman candles are impressive to watch.  They are relatively difficult
     to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they
     are well worth the trouble.
 
     1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with
     several layers of paper and/or masking tape.  This must be done to
     prevent the tube from exploding.  Cut the tube into about 10 inch
     lengths.
      
     2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
     and the drying agent.  About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
 
     3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and
     insert a desired length of water proof fuse.  Make sure that the fuse
     fits tightly.
 
     4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
     tube.
 
     5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
     color.  Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small
     amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler
     material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex.  After mixing the powders
     well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until
     a damp paste is formed.  This paste should be moldable by hand, and
     should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste
     that just fits into the tube.  Allow the ball to dry.
 
     6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube.  It should slide down
     fairly easily.  Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
     it gently against the ball with a pencil.

     7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
     in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run.  If the device works, a
     colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about
     30 feet.  This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger
     powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
 
     8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. 
 
     9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
     producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
 
8.0     LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
 
     Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be
     obtained through a public or university library.  There are also
     many publications that are put out by people who want to make
     money by telling other people how to make explosives at home.  Adds
     for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers.
     This list is presented to show the large number of places that
     information and materials can be purchased from.   It also includes
     fireworks companies and the like.
 
 
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS           WHAT COMPANY SELLS 
______________________________________________________________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC.                 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, 
P.O. BOX 1881                      PAPER TUBING 
MURFREESBORO, TN        
37133                                                      
______________________________________________________________________
UNLIMITED                          CHEMICALS AND FUSE 
BOX 1378-SN 
HERMISTON, OREGON 
97838
______________________________________________________________________
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS            FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE SR BOX 30                                   WITH
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA      SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES 
18328
_______________________________________________________________________
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.         BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY
125 RUNNELS STREET                 MATERIALS, AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226 
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 
48060 
_______________________________________________________________________
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS                  AIR GUNS 
P.O. BOX 22927 
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 
14692 
_______________________________________________________________________
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES,  
316 CALIFORNIA AVE.                PROTECTION DEVICES 
RENO, NEVADA 
89509 
_______________________________________________________________________
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.          CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451 
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 
53547 
_______________________________________________________________________
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.     CLASS "C" FIREWORKS 
P.O. BOX 3504 
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 
06095 
_______________________________________________________________________
RAINBOW TRAIL                      CLASS "C" FIREWORKS 
BOX 581 
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 
19028 
_______________________________________________________________________
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.          CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD  
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 
49878 
_______________________________________________________________________
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.          CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11                        GOOD PRICES!!!
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA 
46975 
_______________________________________________________________________

BOOKS 
_______________________________________________________________________
THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK 
 
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL 
 
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES 
 
FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS 
_______________________________________________________________________
 
9.0     CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
 
     In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if
     he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have
     to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab.  A list of
     such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the
     following:
 
     LIQUIDS                  SOLIDS 
     _______                  ______ 
		     
     ____ Nitric Acid         ____ Potassium Perchlorate 
     ____ Sulfuric Acid       ____ Potassium Chlorate 
     ____ 95% Ethanol         ____ Picric Acid (usually a                                                               powder) 
     ____ Toluene             ____ Ammonium Nitrate 
     ____ Perchloric Acid     ____ Powdered Magnesium 
     ____ Hydrochloric Acid   ____ Powdered Aluminum 
			      ____ Potassium Permanganate
			      ____ Sulfur
			      ____ Mercury
			      ____ Potassium Nitrate
			      ____ Potassium Hydroxide
			      ____ Phosphorus
			      ____ Sodium Azide
			      ____ Lead Acetate
			      ____ Barium Nitrate
 
10.0    USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
 
     In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few
     basic ones.  A list of useful chemical reactions is presented.  It
     assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who does not
     understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first
     five chapters of a high school chemistry book.
 
  1.  potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide

      K(OH)       +  HClO ---->     KClO +    H O
			 4              4      2

  2.  potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide

      "     +  HNO  ---->     KNO  +     "
		  3              3
 
  3.  ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide

      NH OH       +  HClO ---->     NH ClO    +     "
	3                4            3   4
 
  4.  ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide

      NH OH +  HNO  ---->     NH NO     +     "
	3         3             3  3
 
  5.  powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
 
      A.   aluminum foil  +  6HCl    ---->   2AlCl   +   3H
						  3        2

      B.   2AlCl  (aq)   +    3Mg    ---->  3MgCl (aq)   +  2Al
		3                                2

      The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the
      container which must be filtered and dried.   This same method
      works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too
      valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such
      a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.


The following is a supplement to the TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK.  It contains
many additional substances and techniques not shown in the original book.


A1      Plastic Explosives

     You can make your own plastic explosives by mixing seven (7) parts
     potassium chlorate with one (1) part petroleum jelly. (Vaseline will
     do fine). Use an electric charge or fuse to ignite.

A2      Thermit

     Thermit is a powerful substance that can burn through practically
     anything, save tunsten. It is especially of use in trying to break
     into safes, pay phones, or lockers. Here are simple instructions for
     making this substance.
 
     1) The first step in making thermit is to make hematite.   In
     layman's terms, hematite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method
     of making large quantities of rust. You will electolyze a metal rod,
     such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well.
     An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the
     POSITIVE terminal. Then place the rod and a wire from the negative
     terminal in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a
     little salt in the water, just enough to conduct well (a teaspoon).
     Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will be a dark red
     crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water or just fish it
     out with a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron
     pot until it all turns a nice light red.

     2) The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can
     either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum at
     your local hardware shop. (If you buy the bar, use no less than 94%
     pure aluminum. It's called duralumin.)

     3) Mix together the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio should be
     eight (8) parts rust to three (3) parts aluminum filings. That's
     thermit!!!

     4) To light it, stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the
     thermit. Either steal it from a chemistry lab (The easiest!!!) or buy
     it from a local hardware store. Alternatively, you can order from a
     chemical supply house. It's pretty cheap. The ribbon should stick into
     the thermit like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium. When the burning
     magnesium reaches the thermite, it will light. GET THE HELL AWAY at or
     before this point!  Thermite can vaporise carbon steel. It obviously
     will do wonders on human flesh, so be careful.

A3      Terrorism

     My high school chemistry teacher taught me about this one...

     Inject a mixture of gasoline and liquid detergent (dishwashing liquid)
     into a light bulb (make sure that it is turned off).  When someone hits
     the light switch to turn it on, it's, how shall I say it, EXPLOSIVE!!!
     The gasoline is ignited and the detergent makes it stick to everything
     when it explodes, still burning. Don't try this unless you know what
     you are doing, it could be deadly. 

A4      Revenge Bomb

     The parts you will need are:
	1) 4 AA Batteries
	2) 1 9-volt battery
	3) 1 SPDT mini-relay (get it from radio shack)
	4) 1 rocket engine, smoke bomb, or m-80
	5) 1 rocket ignitor (squib)
	6) 1 9-volt battery connector

	Step 1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's
	coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that,
	when separated, cut off the circuit. These contacts should be held
	together by trapping them between your target locker, mailbox, or
	car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the
	9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed
	position and close the ignition circuit. (If this is confusing,
	a schematic follows.)

	Step 2: Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in series. Wire the
	positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of the next until
	they are all in one string except for one positive terminal at one
	end and a negative terminal at the other end. Even though the four
	AA batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in
	amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and
	effectively.

	Step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of
	it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the
	solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back
	to the open position on the relay.

	Step 4: Using double sided carpet tape, mount the entire thing
	inside the target locker, mailbox, car, etc. door. Last of all,
	insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb,
	M-80, etc) and make sure it is mounted securely.


		 ________><________
		|                  |
		|    (contacts)    |
		|                 ---
		|                  -  (9-volt battery)
		|                 ---
		|                  |
		|______(coil)______|
		      ///////_
		   __________/
		  |       _________
		   \  \  |         |
		    \  \_|         |
		(switch) |         |
			 |         |
			 |        ---
			 |         -   (battery pack)
			 |        ---
			 |         |
			 |_________|

	 
A5      Assorted bombs.

     1) Shotgun shell bombs
	These are simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with
	cardboard fins put on. On the primer (open) end of the shell is
	glued a small cork with a hole drilled through it. A roofing nail
	fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in but loose enough to
	punch into the primer upon impact. These bombs are thrown singly
	or by the handful far away from your person! The weight of the shell
	and the stabilisation of the fins causes the nose of the bomb to
	head downward.

	 ___   ____ fin
	|   \ /
	|    \            cork
	-----------------|
	|     shell     ****
	------          <--nail--|
	|               ****
	-----------------|
	|    /
	|___/
	      \____fin


	The Flame Thrower

     An excellent little flamethrower can be made using just about any
     metal or plastic hand squirter (such as a windex bottle). The only
     consideration is that the liquid must come out in a stream instead of
     an atomized spray. Some oil cans can shoot a stream 30 feet. Sprayers
     can often be adjusted from a spray to a stream. A six-inch tube,
     usually aluminum or brass, is fitted on the nozzle. A wick or piece
     of heavy cloth is wired onto the other end of the tube.  The fuel
     used is gasoline, acetone, or lighter fluid.

     To use, the tube is tilted downward slightly. The sprayer is squeezed
     slowly so that the fuel will dribble out and saturate the wick. The
     wick is then lit and the device is aimed and squeezed. Quick, hard
     squeezes will squirt the fuel through the tube and past the burning
     wick. The wick ignites the fuel and you have a handy little
     flamethrower.


	Gas Tank Bombs

     Condensation in a car's gas tank puts a layer of water on its bottom.
     Gelatin capsules filled with one part calcium carbide and one part pure
     sodium are dropped into a car's gas tank. In a few minutes there is an
     incredible explosion as the gelatin is disolved by the water, and the
     sodium ignites. Gelatin capsules filled with more gelatin are available
     at the supermarket. The gelatin is emptied from the capsule and a B.B.
     is put into each to make it sink to the bottom. Slivers of metallic
     sodium and chunks of carbide are then put into the capsules. Seal the
     capsules again; put them into a plastic bag to keep them dry. The
     waiting time can be up to half an hour, or as little as a minute.

	Incendiaries

     These are unparalelled for generating sheer terror. They burn about
     4000 degrees, and give out a blinding light. Wartime incendiaries
     had magnesium castings, which burn fiercely. If water was put on
     them, they disintegrated, sending burning metal in all directions.
     Magnesium tubing is not readily available, so do-it-yourselfers will
     have to settle for aluminum. Aluminum tubing is available at any
     hardware store. It doesn't burn as fiercely as magnesium, but is still
     pretty awful. The tubing should be at least 1.5" in diameter. This is
     to make sure there is enough thermite to burn the tubing. Aluminum
     tubing is cut into suitable lengths, and slices of large dowel are cut
     for plugs. One slice is drilled to accommodate the fuse.

     As illustrated, two holes are drilled into the tube for a bent nail and
     a few lengths of coat-hanger wire. When these are installed and the
     wire is taped to the tube, the thermite is put in. The tube is filled
     nearly full and tapped until the thermite is one inch from the top. A
     circle of tissue paper is then put in to keep the thermite from blending
     with the ignitor. The ignitor is a mixture of one part, by weight, of
     powdered magnesium and two parts barium peroxide. This is mixed
     carefully, preferably rolling back and forth inside a plastic container.
     This mixture can be sensitive, and gloves and goggles are a recommended
     precaution. When mixed, a one-half inch layer of thermite igniter is put
     into the tube. Another circle of tissue is added and one-fourth of an
     inch of flare igniter is spread in. The one fourth inch of inside
     tubing is cleaned of flare igniter to accommodate the plug. A bare fuse
     is stick straight up in the center of the flare igniter and is left to
     dry for a day or two. Then the drilled plug is smeared with glue on the
     edge and pushed over the fuse. Then flare igniter is daubed on the
     fuse and when dry, the device is ready to use. The nail and coathanger
     wire can be omitted if you mean to throw it by hand. Otherwise, the
     delivery system is a slingshot. The nail is put into the sling and the
     device is pulled back by the length of wire and shot.
							   ___flare ign.
  plug__                                 b.p.&m.__        /
	V                                         V      V
	::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
	::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
	::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
	::*************THERMITE****************+++++++++======== <- fuse
	::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
	::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
	::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
	       |                                        ___/
	       - <- nail                            plug


	Simple Smoke Bomb

     Mix four (4) parts sugar with six (6) parts potassium nitrate.
     Heat over low flame until it melts. Stir well, then pour into
     container. Before it solidifies, put a few matches in for fuses.
     One pound of this substance will fill a city block nicely with a
     thick cloud of white smoke.

	Generic Bomb

     1) Aquire a glass container
     2) Put in a few DROPS of gasoline
     3) cap the top
     4) turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces.
     5) add a few drops of potassium permanganate
     6) throw it against a solid object to ignite.

Take care!!! This is the explosive equivalent of half a stick of dynamite!!!


	 Unstable explosive

     1) Mix solid nitric iodine with household ammonioa
     2) wait overnight
     3) pour out liquid
     4) dry the mud on the bottom till hard (like concrete)

The resulting substance is unstable!!! Merely throw something at it to
ignite, preferably from a considerable distance.  Like off a 20 story
building!!!

	 Medium-strength explosive

     Mix seven (7) parts potassium chlorate to one (1) part petroleum
     jelly. Use electric charge or fuse to ignite.

	 Alternate car bomb

     Put liquid drano into a prescription-pill container.
     Close the lid tightly, and pop it in the gas tank.
     Run!!!

	 Napalm (Let's be careful with this one!!!)

     Napalm can be made at home with one (1) part gasoline and one (1) part
     soap. Use either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergent won't do.
     Heat the gasoline in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is in
     a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity.
     The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double
     boiler is taken from the stove and taken to a place where there is NO
     flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part
     and allowed to heat as much as it will. The soap is added and the mess
     is stirred until it thickens.

	 Nitroglycerin

     Nitroglycerin is the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as
     straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites.

	   Making Nitroglycerin
	   ====================

	1. Fill a 75ml beaker to the 13ml level with fuming red nitric acid,
	   of 98% pure concentration.
	2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool well below room
	   temperature.
	3. After it has cooled, add 39ml of fuming sulfuric acid (99%H2SO4).
	   Remember that when mixing acids, you should do it slowly and
	   carefully to avoid splattering. Especially with this stuff!!!
	4. When the two are mixed, lower the temperature by adding more ice
	   to the bath. This is necessary because the mixing of the two
	   acids may generate some heat. The temperature should drop to
	   about 10-15 degrees centigrade. Use a mercury thermometer.
	5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature,
	   it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in
	   small amounts using a medicine dropper.  (READ THIS STEP
	   ABOUT TEN TIMES! BE *VERY* CAREFUL!!!). Add it slowly (SLOWLY!!!)
	   until the entire surface of the acid is covered with it.
	6. This is a DANGEROUS point. The nitration is taking place: as
	   soon as the glycerin is added, the nitration will be producing
	   heat. Keep the solution below 30 degrees centigrade! If it goes
	   above 30 degrees, dump it into the ice bath immediately! This
	   will ensure that it does not blow you and your lab into the next
	   country.
	7. For the first ten minutes of the nitration, the mixture should
	   be gently (GENTLY!!!) stirred. In a normal reaction the
	   nitroglycerin will form as a layer on the top of the acid
	   solution, while the sulfuric acid absorbs the ecess water.
	8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has
	   formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be
	   transferred slowly (SLOWLY!) and carefully (CAREFULLY!) to
	   another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will
	   settle at the bottom so the acids can be drained away.
	9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the
	   nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and
	   place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate) solution.
	   The sodium will neutralize much of the remaining acid. This
	   process should be repeated as much as necessary using blue
	   litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining
	   acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it already
	   is.
       10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from
	   the bicarbonate. This is done with an eye dropper, slowly and
	   carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful
	   is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on a metal plate and
	   ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear
	   blue flame.


	      SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS
	      ===================

	      Nitroglycerin is very sensitive to decomposition, heating,
	      dropping, or jarring and may explode even if left undisturbed
	      and cool. Take special care with this substance.


Dynamite
Now that you've made your nitroglycerin, you can make your own dynamite.
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilising agent to
make it safer to use. I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with NG in the
instructions that follow. The numbers given are percentages, and be sure
to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.

   No.     Ingredients             Amount
   ======================================

   #1      NG                      32
	   Sodium nitrate          28
	   Woodmeal                10
	   Ammonium Oxalate        29

   #2      NG                      24
	   Potassium Nitrate       9
	   Sodium Nitrate          56
	   Woodmeal                9
	   Ammonium Oxalate        2

   #3      NG                      35.5
	   Potassium Nitrate       44.5
	   Woodmeal                6
	   Guncotton               2.5
	   Petroleum Jelly         5.5
	   Powdered Charcoal       6

   #4      NG                      25
	   Potassium Nitrate       26
	   Woodmeal                34
	   Barium Nitrate          5
	   Starch                  10

   #5      NG                      57
	   Potassium Nitrate       19
	   Woodmeal                9
	   Ammonium Oxalate        12
	   Guncotton               3

   #6      NG                      18
	   Sodium Nitrate          70
	   Woodmeal                5.5
	   Potassium Chloride      4.5
	   Chalk                   2

   #7      NG                      26
	   Woodmeal                40
	   Barium Nitrate          32
	   Sodium Carbonate        2
	
   #8      NG                      44
	   Woodmeal                12
	   Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate  44

   #9      NG                      24
	   Potassium Nitrate       32.5
	   Woodmeal                33.5
	   Ammonium Oxalate        10

   #10     NG                      26
	   Potassium Nitrate       33
	   Woodmeal                41

   #11     NG                      15
	   Sodium Nitrate          62.9
	   Woodmeal                21.2
	   Sodium Carbonate        .9

   #12     NG                      35
	   Sodium Nitrate          27
	   Woodmeal                10
	   Ammonium Oxalate        1

   #13     NG                      32
	   Potassium Nitrate       27
	   Woodmeal                10
	   Ammonium Oxalate        30
	   Guncotton               1

   #14     NG                      33
	   Woodmeal                10.3
	   Ammonium Oxalate        29
	   Guncotton               .7

   #15     NG                      40
	   Sodium Nitrate          45
	   Woodmeal                15

   #16     NG                      47
	   Starch                  50
	   Guncotton               3

   #17     NG                      30
	   Sodium Nitrate          22.3
	   Woodmeal                40.5
	   Potassium Chloride      7.2

   #18     NG                      50
	   Sodium Nitrate          32.6
	   Woodmeal                17
	   Ammonium Oxalate        .4

   #19     NG                      23
	   Potassium Nitrate       27.5
	   Woodmeal                37
	   Ammonium Oxalate        8
	   Barium Nitrate          4
	   Calcium Carbonate       .5

   Remember to be careful with Nitroglycerin and with the resulting dynamite
   compound!   With 19 varieties, there's sure to be one for everyone.


	 Black Powder

     Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner.  It may be used
     as blasting powder or gunpowder.

	 Material Required
	 =================
	 Potassium Nitrate, granulated, 3 cups
	 Wood Charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
	 Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
	 Alcohol, 5 pints (ethanol or methanol)
	 Water, 3 cups
	 Heat Source
	 2 buckets, 2-gallon capacity each.  At least one must be heat
	   resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)
	 Flat window screening, at least 1 square foot.
	 Large wooden stick
	 Cloth, at least 2 feet square.

  The above ingredients will yield about 2 ounces of black powder.

  Procedure
  =========
  1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.

  2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant
     bucket. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until
     all ingredients are dissolved.

  3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source
     and stir until small bubbles begin to form.
     CAUTION: Do not boil mixture.  Be sure all of the mixture stays wet.
     If any dries, on the side of the bucket, for example, it may ignite.

  4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring
     vigorously.

  5. Let mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain the mixture through the cloth
     to obtain black powder. Discard the liquid. Wrap the cloth around the
     black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.

  6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder
     on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through the screen.

	NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together
	and change shape, recombine entire batch and repeat steps 5 and 6.

  7. Spread granulated powder on a flat, dry surface so that a layer about
     1/2 inch thick is formed.  Allow it to dry.  Use a radiator or direct
     sunlight. It should be dried as quickly as possible, preferably within
     one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the powder.
     Remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Your black powder is now
     ready to use.

	 Cannister bomb

     Take a CO2 cannister and cut the top almost off but leave a little of
     the metal to form a hinge.  Let out all the CO2 and insert an M-80.
     Insert a fuse through the hole in the top, and close the top by using
     epoxy glue.  Light the fuse to ignite.

	 The Hindenburg Bomb

     Needed
     ======
     1 balloon
     1 bottle
     1 bottle liquid plumber
     1 piece aluminum foil
     1 length fuse

     Fill the bottle 3/4 full with liquid plumber and add a little piece of
     aluminum foil to it.  Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
     the balloon is full of the resulting hydrogen gas.  Be careful, it is
     highly flammable!  Tie the balloon closed, and tie the fuse to the knot
     on the balloon.  Light the fuse, and let the balloon rise.  Stay away
     from it, because when the fuse burns up to the balloon, the show begins.

	 Fun with floppy disks!

     To get even with an obnoxious person who sent you a virus, you can send
     him/her a REAL damaging disk. Take the disk out of its jacket so that
     you have the actual disk surface. Take a small dish and pour acetone
     (nail polish remover) into it.  Now get LOTS of matchheads and put them
     in it.  Pulverise the mixure until you have a somewhat gooey consistency.
     Brush this on the disk in a thin layer, but leave a clean area that
     will show through the hole in the disk jacket.

     When your enemy tries to read THIS disk, the fireworks begin.

	 Household equivalents.

     The following are household names for some chemicals commonly used in
     constructing pyrotechnic substances and devices.

Name                            Equivalent
------------                    --------------
Acetic acid                     vinegar
aluminum oxide                  alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate      alum
aluminum sulfate                alum
ammonium hydroxide              ammonia
carbon tetrachloride            cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride            bleaching powder
calcium oxide                   lime
calcium sulfate                 plaster of paris
carbonic acid                   seltzer
ethylene dichloride             dutch fluid
ferric oxide                    iron rust
glucose                         corn syrup
graphite                        pencil lead
hydrochloric acid               muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide               peroxide
lead acetate                    sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide                 red lead
magnesium silicate              talc
magnesium sulfate               epsom salts
napthalene                      mothballs
phenol                          carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate           cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulfate      chrome alum
potassium nitrate               saltpeter
sodium dioxide                  sand
sodium bicarbonate              baking soda
sodium borate                   borax
sodium carbonate                washing soda
sodium chloride                 salt
sodium hydroxide                lye
sodium silicate                 water glass
sodium sulfate                  glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate              photographers' hypo
sulfuric acid                   battery acid
sucrose                         cane sugar
zinc chloride                   tinner's fluid

	 Ethylene Glycol

     This is otherwise known as automotive antifreeze.  It is a colorless,
     syrupy liquid with a sweetish taste.  It mixes well with both water and
     alcohol.  It is also a lethal chemical.  There is disagreement on the
     lethal dose.  It is given as anything from half an ounce to four ounces.
     However, most people will drink four ounces in a soft drink without
     becoming suspicious.  Interestingly, a person dying from ethylene glycol
     poisoning simply appears to be drunk.

	 Mace substitute

     If you happen to run out of mace one afternoon, this simple substitue
     will work nicely.

	Mix either 6 parts alchol, 1 part iodine, 1 part salt
	OR 3 parts alcohol and 1 part iodized salt (Mortons, etc.)

     It's not actual mace, but it does a good job on the eyes.
     Put it in a small spray bottle and aim carefully.

_____________________________________________________________________________







                            Improvising Black Powder
                            ------------------------

              Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner.
         It may be used as blasting or gun powder.

         Material required:
         -----------------

         potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups

         wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups

         sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup

         alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)

         Water, 3 cups

         heat source

         2 buckets -- each 2 gallon capacity, at least one of which is
                      heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)

         Flat window screening, at least 1 ft. Square large wooden
         stick cloth, at least 2 ft. Square


         note: the above amounts will yield 2 pounds of black powder.
               However, only the ratios of the amounts of the
               ingredients are important.  Thus, for twice as much
               black powder, double all quantities used.

         Procedure:
         ---------

         1) place alcohol in one of the buckets

         2) place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat
            resistant bucket.  Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with
            wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.

         3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture.  Place bucket on
            heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.

         Caution:  do not boil mixture.  Be sure all mixture stays
                   wet.  If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it may
                   ignite.

         4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol
            while stirring vigorously

         5) let alcohol stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through
            cloth to obtain black powder.  Discard liquid. Wrap cloth












         around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.

         6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of
            damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid
            through screen

         note: if granulated particles appear to stick together and
               change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and
               repeat steps 5 & 6.

         7) Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer
            about 1/2 inch is formed.  Allow to dry.  Use radiator ,
            or direct sunlight.  This should be dried as soon as
            possible, preferably in one hour.  The longer the drying
            period, the less effective the black powder.

         Caution: remove from heat as soon as granules are dry.  Black
                  powder is now ready for use.
















































                            The Best of The Station
                            -----------------------
                            <-> Mace Substitute <->

             3 PARTS: Alcohol
           1/2 PARTS: Iodine
           1/2 PARTS: Salt

          Or:

             3 PARTS: Alcohol
             1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)

          It's not actual mace, but it does a
         damn good job on the eyes...

                           <-> CO2 Canister Bomb <->

           Take a Co2 canister and cut the top almost off but leave a
         little to form a hinge. Let out the Co2 and insert a M80 into
         it.  Insert fuse through hole in top. Close the top by
         welding or epoxy glue.  When ready to ignite just light...

                          <-> Unstable Explosives <->

           Mix solid Nitric Iodine with household ammonia. Wait
         overnight and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with
         a muddy substance. Let this dry till it hardens.  Now throw
         it at something!!!!

                                <-> Jug Bomb <->

           Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it.
         Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner
         surface of the jug is coated.  Then add a few drops of
         potassium permanganate solution into it and cap it.  To blow
         it up, either throw it at something, or roll it at something.

                            <-> Hindenberg Bomb <->

         Needed:

         1 Balloon
         1 Bottle
         1 Liquid Plumr
         1 Piece Aluminum Foil
         1 Length Fuse

           Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little
         piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck
         of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas.
         This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon.  Now
         light the fuse, and let it rise.
         When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!












                          How to Make Bugs Breakdance
                          ---------------------------

           Hello, name's Daredevil.  I am about to present you with
         step by step instructions on how to make insects and such to
         dance around like Michael Jackson.  Havoc Chaos and I figured
         this out while over at Havoc's home.  Bugs can breakdance,
         despite popular belief!

           The first thing you will need is a neat pair of tweezers.
         Their use will become obvious later in this SoftDoc.  While
         tweezers work best, I also recommend scissors and (oops.)
         exacto-knives for those without shaky hands.

           The next thing you will need is a bug. I highly recommend
         flies, as they are abundant, and nobody really misses them.
         Some people get angry if you use insects like spiders or
         crickets.  (Don't ask me, darn those enviromentalists.)

           Flies can be found around window sills, fresh meat, or any
         beer-guzzling father. They are pretty much easy to trap, but
         the catch is that you'll need them alive. Fly swatters and
         newspapers should not be used to catch these little buggers.
         Horse flies also are not recommended, as they are supposed to
         bite.  (Hey, i've never been bitten.  If you have, send me E-
         Mail, okay?  -DD)  The common house fly works best.

           Now, capturing these pests alive is the thing.  Get a glass
         or something, and trap it.  Wait a while, and watch it fly
         feebly around the jar looking for a way out. If you're
         smarter than you look, it won't get out.  It's real fun to
         shake the jar and stun the sucker.

           Take the fly from the jar with a 'kleenex' or something of
         the like, and hold it so it's pitiful wings are accessible to
         you. Now, with the tweezers I mentioned above, pull his wings
         off.

           (AUTHORS NOTE: Some lesser minds have actually called me
         'sadistic' because of the fact that I pull flies wings off.
         Well, you don't hear them complaining, do you? -DD)

           Anyways, now that his wings are gone, all he can do is hop
         and run around like a complete fool.  Now, here's the fun
         part.  (What do you mean, pulling the wings off was the fun
         part!?)

           The first trick is to teach it the backspin.  Put your new-
         found pet in the (a) corner in your room.  The fly will then
         attempt to climb the wall.  But, the poor, pitiful creature
         won't make it.  He will fall to the dusty floor onto his
         back.  This is where you come in.  If he isn't spinning
         around, then give him a little help.  They will be back-
         spinning in no time at all!













           You'll notice that flies without wings jump around a lot.
         This really looks like a neat act, and they can really jump
         far.  (Coming next: Fly Olympics?  Nahhh...)

           To make a fly moonwalk, watch it as it crawls around on
         your dresser top. Give it a fling with your index finger, and
         it will almost "fly" across the space it's in!  Not only does
         it go backwards, but upside down, rightside up, right, left,
         north, south, etc...

           My favorite trick is to get a paper plate (You know, the
         cheap ones your mother buys from K-Mart...) and put your
         friend on top of the plate.  Bounce him up and down on the
         plate, and watch him attempt to walk afterwards.  It's really
         neat.

           Well, this is just about all of the neat little tricks you
         can do with bugs. You can take up boring Sunday afternoons
         with this pasttime, and maybe we'll see a breakdancing bugs
         contest one of these days.  Maybe not.

           (ANOTHER AUTHOR'S NOTE:  Lord Omega of Shadow Keep BBS
         suggests to spray them with 'Windex' and other household
         items.  They really get weird, according to him.)

           I just also wanted to point out that Havoc the Chaos's
         Stepmother warned us that pulling wings off of flies was
         beginning signs of insanity.  We are not in ANY way
         responsible for people's sanity, after they take up this
         sport. It was rumored that Charles Manson liked to play with
         flies...


































                                  Weird Drugs
                                  -----------

         Bananas:

         1. Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas

         2. Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings

         3. Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife.

         4. Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water.

         5. Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste
            considtency.

         6. Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in often for about

            20 minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually

            one will feel the effects after smoking three to four

            cigarettes.

         Cough syrup:

         mix robitussion a-c with an equal amount of ginger ale and

         drink. The effect are sedation and euphoria. Never

         underestimate the effects of any drug! You can od on cough

         syrup!

         Toads:

         1. Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best

            kind are tree toads.

         2. Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately.

         3. Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator for four to five

            days, or until the skins are brittle.

         4. Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad

            taste you can mix it with a more fragrant smoking medium.

         Nutmeg:

         1. Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old
            grinder.













         2. After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and

            pulverize with a pestle.

         3. The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 g rams. A larger dose

            may produce excessive thirst, anxiety, and rapid hart

            beat, but hallucinations are rare.

         Peanuts:

         1. Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted)

         2. Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.

         3. Eat the nuts.

         4. Grind up the skins and smoke them.














































                              Demolition Article #2
                              --------------------

              I have decided to skip the article on mercury fluminate
         for a while and get right into the dynamite article.

              Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a
         stabilizing agent to make it much safer to use.  For the sake
         of saving time, I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain
         NG.  The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these
         carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts.  These
         percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.

         no.  ingredients                 amount
         ---------------------------------------
         #1   NG                          32
              sodium nitrate              28
              woodmeal                    10
              ammonium oxalate            29
              guncotten                    1

         #2   NG                          24
              potassium nitrate            9
              sodium nitate               56
              woodmeal                     9
              ammonium oxalate             2

         #3   NG                          35.5
              potassium nitrate           44.5
              woodmeal                     6
              guncotton                    2.5
              vaseline                     5.5
              powdered charcoal            6

         #4   NG                          25
              potassium nitrate           26
              woodmeal                    34
              barium nitrate               5
              starch                      10

         #5   NG                          57
              potassium nitrate           19
              woodmeal                     9
              ammonium oxalate            12
              guncotton                    3

         #6   NG                          18
              sodium nitrate              70
              woodmeal                     5.5
              potassium chloride           4.5
              chalk                        2

         #7   NG                          26
              woodmeal                    40












              barium nitrate              32
              sodium carbonate             2

         #8   NG                          44
              woodmeal                    12
              anhydrous sodium sulfate    44

         #9   NG                          24
              potassium nitrate           32.5
              woodmeal                    33.5
              ammonium oxalate            10

         #10  NG                          26
              potassium nitrate           33
              woodmeal                    41

         #11  NG                          15
              sodium nitrate              62.9
              woodmeal                    21.2
              sodium carbonate              .9

         #12  NG                          35
              sodium nitrate              27
              woodmeal                    10
              ammonium oxalate             1

         #13  NG                          32
              potassium nitrate           27
              woodmeal                    10
              ammonium oxalate            30
              guncotton                    1

         #14  NG                          33
              woodmeal                    10.3
              ammonium oxalate            29
              guncotton                     .7
              potassium perchloride       27

         #15  NG                          40
              sodium nitrate              45
              woodmeal                    15

         #16  NG                          47
              starch                      50
              guncotton                    3

         #17  NG                          30
              sodium nitrate              22.3
              woodmeal                    40.5
              potassium chloride           7.2

         #18  NG                          50
              sodium nitrate              32.6
              woodmeal                    17












              ammonium oxalate              .4

         #19  NG                          23
              potassium nitrate           27.5
              woodmeal                    37
              ammonium oxalate             8
              barium nitrate               4
              calcium carbonate             .5

         Household equivalents for chemicals

              It has come to my attention that m any of these
         chemicals are sold under brand names, or have household
         equivalents.  here is a list that might help you out.

         acetic acid                vinegar
         aluminum oxide             alumia
         aluminum potassium sulfate alum
         aluminum sulfate           alum
         ammonium hydroxide         ammonia
         carbon carbonate           chalk
         calcium hypochloride       bleaching powder
         calcium oxide              lime
         calcium sulfate            plaster of paris
         carbonic acid              seltzer
         carbon tetrachloride       cleaning fluid
         ethylene dichloride        Dutch fluid
         ferric oxide               iron rust
         glucose                    corn syrup
         graphite                   pencil lead
         hydrochloric acid          muriatic acid
         hydrogen peroxide          peroxide
         lead acetate               sugar of lead
         lead tetrooxide            red lead
         magnesium silicate         talc
         magnesium sulfate          Epsom salts
         naphthalene                mothballs
         phenol                     carbolic acid
         potassium bicarbonate      cream of tartar
         potassium chromium sulf.   chrome alum
         potassium nitrate          saltpeter
         sodium dioxide             sand
         sodium bicarbonate         baking soda
         sodium borate              borax
         sodium carbonate           washing soda
         sodium chloride            salt
         sodium hydroxide           lye
         sodium silicate            water glass
         sodium sulfate             glauber's salt
         sodium thiosulfate         photographer's hypo
         sulferic acid              battery acid
         sucrose                    cane sugar
         zinc chloride              tinner's fluid













              Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to
         get one or more of the ingredients try another one.  If you
         still can't, you can always buy sm all amounts from your
         school, or maybe from various chemical companies.  When you
         do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the
         school year, and they ask.




























































                                Harmless Terror
                                ---------------

              To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on
         their victims but only terror.

         These are weapons that should be used from high places.

         1) The flour bomb.
            Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking
            flour in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber
            band to keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but
            when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or
            causes a big puff of flour which will put the victim in
            terror since as far as they are concerned, some strange
            white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of
            terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and
            a bag of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun
            watching people flee in panic.

         2) Smoke bomb projectile.
            All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs
            and a wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke
            bombs and watch the terror since they think it will blow
            up!

         3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
            take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small
            hole in the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm
            place for about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten
            eggs that will only smell when they hit.

         4) Glow in the dark terror.
            Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour
            the stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets
            on the victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a
            radioactive substance so they run in total panic. This
            works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy,
            glowing substance gets all over the victim.

         5) Fizzling panic.
            Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it.
            (Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will
            form a gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put
            it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and
            seal it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and
            cause a violently bubbling substance to go all over the
            victim.


















                           How to Have Fun at K-Mart
                           -------------------------

           Well, first off, one must realize the importance of K-Marts
         in society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper
         to those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores.
         Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior
         Citizens, and the poor people in our city.  Personally, I
         wouldn't be caught dead in there.  But, once, I did.

           You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos (Dear
         friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as
         rooftops, we came along a K-Mart.  Amused, and cold for that
         matter, we wandered in.  The Tension mounts.

           As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by
         Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair stricken
         people selling American Flags.  After laughing at these
         people, we entered.  This is where the real fun begins...

           First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the
         blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses
         the attendants... Fun to do...

           The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store
         where they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day
         they find Apple Computers being sold there.  Instead, lesser
         computers like the laughable Vic-20 can be found there...
         Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking... Then, once in
         Basic, type...

         ]10 PRINT "Fuck the world!  Anarchy Rules!" (or something to
                                                      that effect.)
         ]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.

           Also, set the sample radios in the store to a santanic rock
         station, and turn the radio off.  Then, set the alarm for two
         minutes ahead of the time displayed there.  Turn the volume
         up all the way, and walk away.  After about two minutes, you
         will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or
         off.  It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different
         stations, and walk away.

           One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the
         intercom system of the store.  Easier typed then done.
         First, check out the garden department.  You say there's no
         attendant there? Good.  Sneak carefully over to the phone
         behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up.  Dial the
         number corresponding to the item that says 'PAGE'...  And
         talk.  You will note that your voice will echo all over the
         bowels of K-Mart.

           I would suggest announcing something on the lines
         of:"Anarchy"












                             Demolition Article #1
                             ---------------------
              Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the
         greatest care and caution when you are doing this.  Even if
         you have made this stuff before.

              This first article will give you information on making
         nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives
         such as straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites.

                    ---------------------------------------

                              Making nitroglycerin

                    ---------------------------------------

              1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with
                 fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.

              2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool
                 below room temp.

              3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount
                 of fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4).  In other words,
                 add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of
                 fuming sulferic acid.  When mixing any acids, always
                 do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.

              4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. By adding
                 more ice to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade.
                 (Use a mercury-operated thermometer)

              5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired
                 temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The
                 glycerin must be added in small amounts using a
                 medicine dropper.  (Read this step about 10 times!)
                 Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean
                 careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it
                 covered with it.

              6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will
                 take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The
                 nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be
                 kept below 30 degrees centigrade! If the solution
                 should go above 30 degrees, immediately dump the
                 solution into the ice bath!  This will insure that it
                 does not go off in your face!

              7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture
                 should be gently stirred.  In a normal reaction the
                 nitroglycerin will form as a layer on top of the acid
                 solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the
                 excess water.













              8. After the nitration has taken place, and the
                 nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution,
                 the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and
                 carefully to another beaker of water.  When this is
                 done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottom
                 so the other acids can be drained away.

              9. After removing as much acid as possible without
                 disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the
                 nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a
                 bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case
                 you didn't know) solution.  The sodium is an alkalai
                 and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This
                 process should be repeated as much as necessary using
                 blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid.
                 The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more
                 unstable than it already is.

              10. Finally! The final step is to remove the
                  nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate.  His is done
                  with and eye- dropper slowly and carefully.  The
                  usual test to see if nitration has been successful
                  is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal
                  and ignite it.  If it is true nitroglycerin it will
                  burn with a clear blue flame.

                                 ** Caution **

           nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating dropping,
         or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.




































                                 Free Postage!!
                                ---------------

              The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and
         packages is bringing down our standard of living.  To remedy
         this deplorable situation, some counter control measures can
         be applied.

              For example, if the stamps on a letter are coated with
         Elmer's Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not
         destroy the stamp: the Elmer/s drives to form an almost
         invisible coating that protects the stamps from the
         cancellation ink. Later, the receiver of the letter can
         remove the cancellation mark with water and reuse the
         stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will also result from
         recycling the stamps.  Help save a tree.

              The glue is most efficently applied with a brush with
         stiff, short bristles.  Just dip the brush directly into the
         glue and spread it on evenly, covering the entire surface of
         the stamp.  It will dry in about 15 minutes.

              For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as
         outlined above; however, the package should be weighed and
         checked to make sure that it has the correct amount of
         postage on it before it is taken to the Post Office.

              Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps
         can be easily accomplished by soaking the stamps in warm
         water until they float free from the paper.  The stamps can
         then be put onto a paper towel to dry.  Processing stamps in
         large batches saves time too.  Also, it may be helpful to
         write the word 'Elmer' at the top of the letter (not on the
         envelope) to cue the receiving party in that the stamps have
         been protected with the glue.

              We all know that mailing packages can be expensive.  And
         we also know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated
         against in jobs.  The Government, being the generous people
         they are, have given the blind free postal service.

              Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one
         modification.  In the corner where the stamp would go, write
         in (or stamp) the words 'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND".  Then
         drop you package or letter in one of the blue federal
         mailboxes.  DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST OFFICE, OR
         LEAVE IT IN YOUR MAILBOX.

              Sounds very nice of the government to do this, right?
         Well, they aren't that nice.  The parcel is sent library
         rate, that is below third class.  It may take four to five
         days to send a letter to just the next town.














              This too is quite simple, but less effective.  Put the
         address that you are sending the letter to as the return
         address.  If you were sending a $20 donation to the pirate's
         Chest, you would put our address (po box 644, lincoln ma.
         01773) as the return address.

              Then you would have to be careless and forget to put the
         stamp on the envelope.  A nice touch is to put a bullshit
         address in the center of the envelope.

              Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDERAL mailbox.
         If the post office doesn't send the letter to the return
         address for having no stamp, they will send it back for the
         reason of "No such address".

         Example--

           Pirates Chest
           P.O. Box 644
           Lincol, Ma.
           01773

                                Tom Bullshit
                                20 Fake Road
                                What Ever, XX
                                99851


              One last thing you might try doing is soaking a
         cancelled stamp off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one
         you are sending.  Then burn the stamp, leaving a little bit
         to show that there was one there.


































                              Electronic Terrorism
                              --------------------
             It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you.
         Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely
         choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation.  But as he laughs
         in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already
         planned.

         Step 1:  follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.
                  Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a
                  week or more, letting your anger boil.

         Step 2:  in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
                  kit (details below.)

         Step 3:  plant your kit at the designated target site on a
                  Monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00
                  am.  Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly
                  hints at the possibility of another attack.  Do not
                  write it by hand!  An example of an effective note:

                         "don't be such a jerk, or the
                          next one will take off your
                            hand.  Have a nice day."

                 Notice how the calm tone instills fear.  As if
                 written by a homicidal psychopath.

         Step 5:  choose a strategic location overlooking the target
                  site.  Try  to position yourself in such a way that
                  you can see his facial contortions.

         Step 6:  sit back and enjoy the fireworks!


         Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist
         kit #1:

         the parts you'll need are:
          1) 4 aa batteries
          2) 1 9-volt battery
          3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
          4) 1 rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80)
          5) 1 solar igniter (any hobby store)
          6) 1 9-volt battery connector

         step 1:  take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the
                  relay's coil.  This circuit should also include a
                  pair of contacts that when separated cut off this
                  circuit.  These contacts should be held together by
                  trapping them between the locker, mailbox, or car
                  door.  Once the door is opened, the contacts fall
                  apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing
                  the relay to fall to the closed position thus












                  closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is
                  confusing take a look at the schematic below.)

         Step 2:  take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
                  Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative
                  terminal of another, until all four are connected
                  except one positive terminal and one negative
                  terminal.  Even though the four aa batteries only
                  combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage
                  is necessary to activate the solar igniter quickly
                  and effectively.

         Step 3:  take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one
                  end of it to the relay's single pole and the other
                  end to one prong of the solar igniter.  Then wire
                  the other prong of the solar igniter back to the
                  open position on the relay.

         Step 4:  using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his
                  locker, mailbox, or car door.  And last, insert the
                  solar igniter into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or
                  m-80).

                               Your kit is now complete!


                                  ---------><---------
                                  I    (CONTACTS)    I
                                  I                  I
                                  I                 --- (9  VOLT)
                                  I                  -  (BATTERY)
                                  I                 ---
                                  I                  I
                                  I      (COIL)      I
                                  ------///////-------
                                       /-----------
                                      /           I
                                     /            I
                                    /             I
                                (SWITCH) I        I
                                         I        I
                                         I       --- (BATTERY)
                                         I        -  ( PACK  )
                                         I       ---
                                         I        I
                                         I        I
                                         ---- -----
                                            I I
                                             *
                                       (SOLAR IGNITER)
















                         More Fun Stuff for Terrorists

                                  ------------
                                  Carbide Bomb
                                  ------------

         This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution....
         Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used
         in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware
         store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel)
         and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on
         tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce
         acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
         cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from
         internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you
         will get a nice fireball!

                           -------------------------
                           Portable Grenade Launcher
                           -------------------------

         If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule
         from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder
         (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy) and then glue a shotshell
         primer into the hole left where the ferrule went. Next, glue
         a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one
         is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminium go all over the
         place!!

                           --------------------------
                           Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
                           --------------------------

         For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition
         wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four
         or five inches of the tail pipe by drilling a hole that the
         plug can screw into easily.  Attach the wire (this is regular
         insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark
         plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the
         positive terminal on the battery. With the car running,
         simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be
         careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these
         flames go 20 feet!!!























                           The Book Of The Unlawfuls
                           -------------------------
                               -=] Section I [=-
                                 -=] Bombs [=-
                                 --- ----- ---

                             House Hold equivalents
                             ----- ---- -----------

         Name                            Equivalent
         ----                            ----------
         acetic acid                     vinegar
         aluminum oxide                  alumia
         aluminum potassium sulfate      alum
         aluminum sulfate                alum
         ammonium hydroxide              ammonia
         carbon carbonate                chalk
         carbon tetrachloride            cleaning fluid
         calcium hypochloride            bleaching powder
         calcium oxide                   lime
         calcium sulfate                 plaster of paris
         carbonic acid                   seltzer
         ethylene dichloride             dutch fluid
         ferric oxide                    iron rust
         glucose                         corn syrup
         graphite                        pencil lead
         hydrochloric acid               muriatic acid
         hydrogen peroxide               peroxide
         lead acetate                    sugar of lead
         lead tetrooxide                 red lead
         magesium silicate               talc
         magesium sulfate                Epsom salts
         naphthalene                     mothballs
         phenol                          carbolic acid
         potassium bicarbonate           cream of tarter
         potassium chromium sulfate      chrome alum
         potassium nitrate               saltpeter
         sodium dioxide                  sand
         sodium bicarbonate              baking soda
         sodium borate                   borax
         sodium carbonate                washing soda
         sodium choride                  salt
         sodium hydroxide                lye
         sodium silicate                 water glass
         sodium sulfate                  glaubers' salt
         sodium thiosulfate              photographers hypo
         sulferic acid                   battery acid
         sucrose                         cane sugar
         zinc choride                    tinner's fluid
         ------------                    --------------
















                               -=] Smoke Bomb [=-
                               --- ----- ---- ---

         Mix:
          4 parts sugar
          6 parts potassium nitrate

         Heat:
          over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into
          container. Before it solidifies, put a few matches in for
          fuses.

          *One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a
           thick cloud of white smoke*

                              -=] Generic bomb [=-
                              --- ------- ---- ---

         1) Acquire a glass container
         2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
         3) Cap the top
         4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces
            and then evaporates
         5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this
            stuff from a snake bite kit)
         6) The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.

          *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS
           ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE*





































                               -=] Section II [=-
                                -=] Hacking [=-
                                --- ------- ---

                            -=] Conference calls [=-
                            --- ---------- ----- ---
         *I recommend that you do this local*

         To make a conference call with as many people you want, just

         call the operator ("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a

         conference call." Then give the (first) Names (not pirate

         names, ether) and the phone #'s of the people you want to

         call And she'll do it. (hint: make sure that the people you

         are calling are expecting it. because its damn annoying to be

         talking to 3 people and having the third be busy for the

         whole time

                          -=] Charge-a-call phones [=-
                          --- ------------- ------ ---

         On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but don't have any coin

         slots) take a hex wrench (with a hole in the middle) and

         remove the screw in the middle for an extension!



                               -=] Free calls [=-
                               --- ---- ----- ---

         From a pay phone, (the kind that gives you a dial tone AFTER

         you put in the dime) and drop in your dime.  Then dial the #,

         then put another dime in!  It'll come back out when you

         finish your call.















THE CHEMIST'S CORNER
ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES
BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG

THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVES.
IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS
THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LARGER
AMOUNTS.  IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE
EXPERIMENTS!  I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING.  UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH
WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR
EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS.  I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE
CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFOR- MATION.  IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE
KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INTERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY
HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.

=======================================


I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES.

 A. GUNPOWDER:
     75% POTASSIUM NITRATE
     15% CHARCOAL
     10% SULFUR

THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE GROUND IN TO A FINE POWDER (SEPERATELY!) WITH A MORTER
& PESTLE.  IF GUNPOWDER IS IGNITED IN THE OPEN, IT BURNS FIERCELY, BUT IF IN A
CLOSED SPACE IT BUILDS UP PRESSURE FROM THE RELEASED GASES AND CAN EXPLODE THE
CONTAINER.  GUNPOWDER WORKS LIKE THIS:	THE POTASSIUM NITRATE OXIDIZES THE
CHARCOAL AND SULFUR, WHICH THEN BURNS FIERCELY.  CARBON DIOXIDE AND SULFUR
DIOXIDE ARE THE GASES RELEASED.

 B. AMMONAL:
AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH ALUMINUM
POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE).  I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR
AMMONAL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS.

 C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:

1.  A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR (SUCROSE)
BURNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1 DROP
OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT.	WHAT OCCURS IS THIS:  WHEN THE
ACID IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE,
WHICH EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL.
2.  USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY WELL
FOR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS.  I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE'
(TM).  HERE IT IS:  POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM
NITRATE + AMMONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON
FILINGS + CHARCOAL + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT.  (SCARLET= STRONTIUM
NITRATE, PURPLE= IODINE CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM
CHLORIDE, ETC...).
3.  SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES?  IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT.
MIXTURE:  AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST.  WHEN A
DROP OR TWO OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH
REACTS WITH THE ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT.  THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE
IODINE (GIVING OFF PURPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN
MIXED WITH IODINE VAPOR).  IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING.
     AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS
     AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM
     ZINC DUST	     : 8 GRAMS
     IODINE CRYSTALS : 1 GRAM
4.  POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-COLORED
FLAME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN.  WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY
GROUND.
5.  CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE GAS USED
IN BLOW TORCHES...)

II. THERMITE REACTION.

THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN IRON AND
TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+).  IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS THAT I
TALKED ABOUT TO START IT!

STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER
(325 MESH OR FINER)

PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT.  TO START
THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE
STARTER MIXTURE.  STEP BACK!  THE RATIOS ARE:  3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1
PART ALUMINUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR.  WHEN YOU
FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G!  ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE
THERMITE REACTION.  THE ALTERNATIVE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE.
AMOUNTS:  55G IRON(III) OXIDE, 15G A LUMINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM
PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE.

III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH
     EXPLOSIVES.
 A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE
TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE MIGHT
ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY.  THIS IS
SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE
PURCHASED.  I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT
FULMINIC ACID.	YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART
MERCURY.  THIS IS THEORETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY
THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMALL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS.

  B. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
NITROGEN TRIIODIDE IS A VERY POWERFUL AND VERY SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE .
NEVER STORE IT AND BE CARFUL WHEN YOU 'RE AROUND IT- SOUND, AIR MOVEMENTS, AND
OTHER TINY THINGS COULD SET IT OFF.

MATERIALS-
   2-3G IODINE
   15ML CONC. AMMONIA
   8 SHEETS FILTER PAPER
   50ML BEAKER
   FEATHER MOUNTED ON A TWO METER POLE
   EAR PLUGS
   TAPE
   SPATULA
   STIRRING ROD

ADD 2-3G IODINE TO 15ML AMMONIA IN THE 50ML BEAKER.  STIR, LET STAND FOR 5
MINUTES.  DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES!  RETAIN THE SOLID, DECANT THE
LIQUID (POUR OFF THE LIQUID BUT KEEP THE BROWN SOLID...).  SCAPE THE BROWN
RESIDUE OF NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ONTO A STACK OF FOUR SHEETS OF FILTER PAPER.
DIVIDE SOLID INTO FOUR PARTS, PUTTING EACH ON A SEPERATE SHEET OF DRY FILTER
PAPER.	TAPE IN POSITION, LEAVE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES
(PREFERRABLY LONGER).  TO DETONATE, TOUCH WITH FEATHER.  (WE AR EAR PLUGS WHEN
DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)

  C. CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON)

COMMONLY KNOWN AS SMOKELESS POWDER, NITROCELLULOSE IS EXACTLY THAT- IT DOES NOT
GIVE OFF SMOKE WHEN IT BURNS.

MATERIALS-
  70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID
  30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID
  5G ABSORBENT COTTON
  250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE
  250ML BEAKER
  ICE BATH
  TONGS
  PAPER TOWELS

PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACID.
DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES.	WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID
SOLUTION FOR 1 MINUTE.	NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML
WATER.	USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE.  THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM
BICARBONATE.  IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS.
SQUEEZE DRY AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT.


  D. NITROGLYCERINE

NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE.  IT IS USED IN
MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS.  I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND
AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.

MATERIALS-
  70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID
  30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID
  10 ML GLYCERINE
  ICE BATH
  150ML BEAKER

PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD.
SLOWLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO
MAINTAIN A LOW TEMPERATURE.  WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD
ABOUT 10 ML GLYCERINE.	IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOK S FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**.
WHEN NITROGLYCERINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE...  IF IT
STAYS CLEAR AND ALL WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET
IT SIT FOR A FEW HOURS.  YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY
MIXED WITH NITRIC AND SULFURIC ACIDS.  WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE
NEARBY.  NITROGLYCERINE CAN FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING
GASES.	THIS MEANS THAT IF YOU HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL
PRODUCE SOME 100,000 ML'S OF GASES.  TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE
NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS
EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).


IV. OTHER STUFF

  A. PEROXYACETONE

PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK
SENSITIVE.

MATERIALS-
  4ML ACETONE
  4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
  4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID
  150MM TEST TUBE

ADD 4ML ACETONE AND 4ML HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE TEST TUBE.  THEN ADD 4 DROPS
CONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID.  IN 10-20 MINUTES A WHITE SOLID SHOULD BEGIN TO
APPEAR.  IF NO CHANGE IS OBSERVED, WARM THE TEST TUBE IN A WATER BATH AT 40
CELSIUS.  ALLOW THE REACTION TO CONTINUE FOR TWO HOURS.  SWIRL THE SLURRY AND
FILTER IT.  LEAVE OUT ON FILTER PAPER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS.  TO
IGNITE, LIGHT A CANDLE TIED TO A METER STICK AND LIGHT IT (WHILE STAYING AT
LEAST A METER AWAY).

  B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...

THE FOLLOWING REACTION SHOULD PRODUCE A FAIR AMOUNT OF SMOKE.  SINCE THIS
REACTION IS NOT ALL THAT DANGEROUS YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS IF NECESSARY FOR
LARGER AMOUNTS OF SMOKE.

   6G ZINC POWDER
   1G SULFUR POWDER

   INSERT A RED HOT WIRE INTO THE PILE,
STEP BACK. A LOT OF SMOKE SHOULD BE
CREATED.





THERE ARE MANY OTHER EXPERIMENTS I COULD HAVE INCLUDED, BUT I WILL SAVE THEM
FOR THE NEXT CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE.  UPCOMING ARTICLES WILL INCLUDE
GLOW-IN-THE-DARK REACTIONS, 'PARTY' REACTIONS, THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH HOUSEHOLD
CHEMICALS, AND MORE...	I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE CREDIT TO A BOOK BY SHAKASHARI
ENTITLED "CHEMICAL DEMONSTRATIONS" FOR A FEW OF THE PRECISE AMOUNTS OF
CHEMICALS IN SOME EXPERIMENTS.	THIS IS IT FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #1...  LOOK FOR
CHEMIST'S CORNER #2:  WHAT TO DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS...

	    ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

OFF THE WALL		  443-3367
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                     the             Progressive Underground
   Although I haven't    ||||||\\ |||   ||| |||||\\         Dissidents
    heard from him,      |||   )))|||   ||| |||  \\\  3 1 3 - 4 3 3 - 3 1 6 4
   maybe this file's     ||||||// |||   ||| |||   )))  Running: Citadel v2.17
 author would =WANT= you |||      |||   ||| |||  /// About 20 Megs of TextFiles
       to call...        |||       \\|||//  ||||||/   and the SysOp is Mr. Pez.
THE CHEMIST'S CORNER
ARTICLE #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS
BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG

THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO SOME INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS
WITH COMMON HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS.  SOME MAY OR MAY NOT WORK DEPENDING ON THE
CONCENTRATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS IN DIFFERENT AREAS AND BRANDS.  I WOULD
SUGGEST THAT THE PERSON DOING THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF
CHEMISTRY, ESPECIALLY FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS EXPERIMENTS.

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS
INFORMATION.  IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO RE
INTERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.

=======================================
I.  A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION

VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID
BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE
SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE
CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE
SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF MAGNESIA- MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE
TINCTURE OF IODINE- 47% ALCOHOL, 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK)



EXP #1: YE OLD FIZZ EXPERIMENT

MIX VINEGAR WITH BAKING SODA.  IT PRODUCES SODIUM ACETATE AND CARBONIC ACID.
CARBONIC ACID QUICKLY DECOMPOSES INTO CARBON DIOXIDE AND WATER, RESULTING IN
THE "FIZZ".  THIS SIMPLE REACTION CAN BE CONTAINED IN A SMALL BOTTLE OR
SOMETHING, AND WHEN ENOUGH PRESSURE BUILDS UP IT WILL BREAK OPEN.  I SINCERELY
DOUBT THAT IT WILL BLOW "ALL FOUR WALLS OFF THE HOUSE" AS SOME LOSER WROTE IN
HIS SAFEHOUSE ARTICLE.	THE SAME BASIC THING CAN BE DONE WITH DRY ICE & WATER,
BAKING POWDER & WATER, CITRIC ACID & BAKING SODA, AND MANY OTHER COMBINATIONS.

EXP #2: A FRUITY BATTERY

IF YOU'RE EVER IN NEED OF A LITTLE POWER, GET YOUR HANDS ON THESE:

 A CITRUS FRUIT (LEMON, ORANGE, ETC)
 A SMALL ZINC STRIP
 A SMALL COPPER STRIP

JUST STICK THE ZINC STRIP IN ONE END OF A LEMON AND A COPPER STRIP IN THE
OTHER.	YOU NOW HAVE A 1.5 VOLT BATTERY!  JUST ATTACH THE WIRES TO THE COPPER &
ZINC STRIPS...


EXP #3: GENERATING CHLORINE GAS

THIS IS SLIGHTLY MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE OTHER TWO EXPERIMENTS, SO YOU SHOULD
KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU TRY THIS...

EVER WONDER WHY AMMONIA BOTTLES ALWAYS SAY 'DO NOT MIX WITH CHLORINE BLEACH',
AND VISA-VERSA?  THAT'S BECAUSE IF YOU MIX AMMONIA WATER WITH AJAX OR SOMETHING
LIKE IT, IT WILL GIVE OFF CHLORINE GAS.  TO CAPTURE IT, GET A LARGE BOTTLE AND
PUT AJAX IN THE BOTTOM.  THEN POUR SOME AMMONIA DOWN INTO THE BOTTLE.  SINCE
THE CHLORINE IS HEAVIER THAN AIR, IT WILL STAY DOWN IN THERE UNLESS YOU USE
LARGE AMOUNTS OF EITHER AJAX OR AMMONIA (DON'T!).  FOR SOMETHING FUN TO DO WITH
CHLORINE STAY TUNED....


EXP #4: CHLORINE + TURPENTINE

TAKE A SMALL CLOTH OR RAG AND SOAK IT IN TURPENTINE.  QUICKLY DROP IT INTO THE
BOTTLE OF CHLORINE.  IT SHOULD GIVE OFF A LOT OF BLACK SMOKE AND PROBABLY START
BURNING...


EXP #5: GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS

TO GENERATE HYDROGEN, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ACID AND A METAL THAT WILL REACT WITH
THAT ACID.  TRY VINEGAR (ACETIC ACID) WITH ZINC, ALUMINUM, MAGNESIUM, ETC.  YOU
CAN COLLECT HYDROGEN IN SOMETHING IF YOU NOTE THAT IT IS LIGHTER THAN AIR....
LIGHT A SMALL AMOUNT AND IT BURNS WITH A SMALL *POP*.

ANOTHER WAY OF CREATING HYDROGEN IS BY THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER.  THIS
INVOLVES SEPERATING WATER (H2O) INTO HYDROGEN AND OXYGEN BY AN ELECTRIC
CURRENT.  TO DO THIS, YOU NEED A 6-12 VOLT BATTERY, TWO TEST TUBES, A LARGE
BOWL, TWO CARBON ELECTRODES (TAKE THEM OUT OF AN UNWORKING 6-12 VOLT BATTERY),
AND TABLE SALT.  DISSOLVE THE SALT IN A LARGE BOWL FULL OF WATER.  SUBMERGE THE
TWO TEST TUBES IN THE WATER AND PUT THE ELECTRODES IN SIDE THEM, WITH THE MOUTH
OF THE TUBE AIMING DOWN.  CONNECT THE BATTERY TO SOME WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE
ELECTRODES.  THIS WILL WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT CHLORINE WILL BE GENERATED ALONG
WITH THE OXYGEN WHICH WILL UNDOUBTEDLY CORRODE YOUR COPPER WIRES LEADING TO THE
CARBON ELECTRODES...  (THE TABLE SALT IS BROKEN UP INTO CHLORINE AND SODIUM
IONS, THE CHLORINE COMES OFF AS A GAS WITH OXYGEN WHILE SODIUM REACTS WITH THE
WATER TO FORM SODIUM HYDROXIDE....).  THEREFORE, IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON
SOME SULFURIC ACID, USE IT INSTEAD.  IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE REACTION OTHER THAN
MAKING THE WATER CONDUCT ELECTRICITY.


EXP #6: HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE

TAKE THE TEST TUBE OF HYDROGEN AND COVER THE MMUTH WITH YOUR THUMB.  KEEP IT
INVERTED, AND BRING IT NEAR THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE (NOT ONE THAT HAS REACTED
WITH TURPENTINE).  SAY "GOODBYE TEST TUBE", AND DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE.  THE
HYDROGEN AND CHLORINE SHOULD REACT AND POSSIBLY EXPLODE (DEPENDING ON PURITY
AND A MOUNT OF EACH GAS).  AN INTERESTING THING ABOUT THIS IS THEY WILL NOT
REACT IF IT IS DARK AND NO HEAT OR OTHER ENERGY IS AROUND.  WHEN A LIGHT IS
TURNED ON, ENOUGH ENERGY IS PRESENT TO CAUSE THEM TO REACT...

EXP #7: PREPARATION OF OXYGEN

GET SOME HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (FROM A DRUG STORE) AND MANGANESE DIOXIDE (FROM A
BATTERY- IT'S A BLACK POWDER).  MIX THE TWO IN A BOTTLE, AND THEY GIVE OFF
OXYGEN.  IF THE BOTTLE IS STOPPERED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP AND SHOOT IT OFF.
TRY LIGHTING A WOOD SPLINT AND STICKING IT (WHEN ONLY GLOWING) INTO THE BOTTLE.
THE OXYGEN WILL MAKE IT BURST INTO FLAME.  EXPERIMENT WITH IT.	THE OXYGEN WILL
ALLOW THINGS TO BURN BETTER...

EXP #8: ALCOHOL

BUY SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL IN A DRUG STORE.  USUALLY THIS IS EITHER 70% OR 99%
ALCOHOL AND BURNS JUST GREAT.  YOU CAN SOAK A TOWEL IN WATER AND THEN IN
ACOHOL, LIGHT THE TOWEL, AND WHEN IT FINISHES BURNING THE ALCOHOL, THE FLAME
SHOULD GO OUT AND LEAVE THE TOWEL UNHARMED.  NICE FOR "PARTY TRICKS", ETC.

EXP #9: IODINE?

TINCTURE OF IODINE CONTAINS MAINLY ALCOHOL AND A LITTLE IODINE.  TO SEPERATE
THEM, PUT THE TINCTURE OF IODINE IN A METAL LID TO A BOTTLE AND HEAT IT OVER A
CANDLE.  HAVE A STAND HOLDING ANOTHER METAL LID DIRECTLY OVER THE TINCTURE
(ABOUT 4-6 INCHES ABOVE IT) WITH ICE ON TOP OF IT.  THE ALCOHOL SHOULD
EVAPORATE, AND THE IODINE SHOULD SUBLIME, BUT SHOULD REFORM IODINE CRYSTALS ON
THE COLD METAL LID DIRECTLY ABOVE.  IF THIS WORKS (I HAVEN'T TRIED), YOU CAN
USE THE IODINE ALONG WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA TO FORM NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
(DISCUSSED IN ARTICLE #1).

EXP #10: GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION!

WANT TO TRY YOUR OWN 'GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION'?  GET A CANDLE AND SOME
FLOUR...  LIGHT THE CANDLE AND PUT SOME FLOUR IN YOUR HAND.  TRY VARIOUS WAYS
OF GETTING THE FLOUR TO LEAVE YOUR HAND AND BECOME DUST RIGHT OVER THE CANDLE
FLAME.	THE ENORMOUS SURFACE AREA ALLOWS ALL THE TINY DUST PARTICLES TO BURN,
WHICH THEY DO AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME, COMBINING TO FORM A FIREBALL EFFECT.  IN
GRAIN ELEVATORS, MUCH THE SAME THING HAPPENS.  IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON
SOME LYCOPODIUM POWDER, DO.  THIS WILL WORK MUCH BETTER, CREATING HUGE
FIREBALLS THAT ARE UNEXPECTED.


THAT'S ENOUGH FOR NOW... MORE TO COME
IN LATER CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLES...

	   ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

OFF THE WALL		  443-3367
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                     the             Progressive Underground
   Although I haven't    ||||||\\ |||   ||| |||||\\         Dissidents
    heard from him,      |||   )))|||   ||| |||  \\\  3 1 3 - 4 3 3 - 3 1 6 4
   maybe this file's     ||||||// |||   ||| |||   )))  Running: Citadel v2.17
 author would =WANT= you |||      |||   ||| |||  /// About 20 Megs of TextFiles
       to call...        |||       \\|||//  ||||||/   and the SysOp is Mr. Pez.
+-----------------------------------+
+  ÂASIC ÅXPLOSIVES ][ BY ÍILAMBER  +
+   ÐART ][ : ËITCHEN ÃHEMISTRY     +
+-----------------------------------+
+ ÔHANX TO ALL É THANKED IN ÐART É, +
+ ÁND SPECIAL THANX TO Ê.Ã. !!!!!!  +
+-----------------------------------+
+    Á ÓÐÅÃÔÒÅ ÏRIGINAL ÆILE        +
+-----------------------------------+

ÐART ÉÉ
-------

ËITCHEN ÃHEMISTRY
-----------------
   ÁLL THE EXPLOSIVES IN THIS FILE ARE FAIRLY SAFE TO MAKE, EASILY MADE, AND 
THE MATERIALS ARE EASY TO GET.  ÔHEY ARE NOT VERY POWERFUL, AND ARE EXCELLENT
FOR TERRORIZING YOUR NEIGHBOR.
  Á LOT OF THE EXPLOSIVES HEREAFTER USE ONLY TWO INGREDIENTS AND THEREFORE, 
DO NOT RECQUIRE MUCH IN THE WAY OF DETONATORS... É HAVE SOME CASINGS WHICH 
É WILL DESCRIBE IN THE FOLLOWING:

ÐIPE ÃASING
-----------
ÔHIS CASING CONSISTS OF TWO THINGS: Á PIPE SEALED ON ONE END, A GLASS, SEALABLE
CONTAINER, AND ROCKS.  ÔHE LIQUID IS USUALLY SEALED INSIDE THE JAR.  ÔHE SOLID
IS USUALLY PLACED INSIDE THE PIPE.  ÉT WORX LIKE THIS: ÐLACE THE LIQUID IN THE
CONTAINER AND SEAL IT TIGHTLY!!!! Á GOOD IDEA WOULD BE TO COAT THE JOINING WITH
WAX, OR ÖASELINE.  ÔHEN PUT THE SOLID DOWN THE PIPE. ÐUT SOME ROCKS IN, AND 
SLIDE THE JAR IN CAREFULLY... ÐLACE SOME MORE ROCKS IN AND SEAL THE TOP OF THE 
PIPE AS BEST AS POSSIBLE...
  Á BABY JAR AND APPROPIATE PIPE WORK GREAT.  ×HEN READY TO DETONATE, HIT THE
 PIPE AGAINST SOMETHING, THIS WILL BREAK THE JAR, AND LET THE STUFF COMBINE.
  ÔHEN GET RID OF IT!!!!!!!!!!!

ÊAR CASING
----------
  ÔHIS CASING IS EASIER TO MAKE, ALL YOU NEED IS A FILM CONTAINER AND A JAR.
ÏNE INGREDIENT IS PLACED IN THE PLASTIC FILM CONTAINER AND CAPPED.  Á NEEDLE IS
USED TO PUNCH SMALL HOLES IN THE CAP, ABOUT 1-2 HOLES WILL DO.  ÔHEN PLACE
THE OTHER INGREDIENT IN THE JAR.  ×ÈÅÎ, & ONLY ×ÈÅÎ YOU ARE READY TO DETONATE,
DROP THE FILM CONTAINER IN THE JAR, CLOSE IT, AND GET RID OF IT, ÎÏ×!!!
Á MAYNAISE JAR WORX PRETTY GOOD, ALTHOUGH GLASS CAUSES IMMENSE DAMAGE TO PEOPLE
 IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY, HOWEVER, SO BE CAREFUL. 3 LITER PLASTIC COKE DEALS
 ARE GOOD TOO!!

ÃOKE ÃAN ÃASING
---------------
 ÔHIS IS A VARIATION OF THE JAR CASING, AND IS GENERALLY GREAT FOR THE 
CLASSROOM.  ÆILL THE CAN WITH AN INGREDIENT, AFTER LETTING THE CAN DRY IN THE 
SUN, THEN TAKE ABOUT TWO SMALL PAPER TOWELS AND WRAP THE SOLID INGREDIENT IN
THIS... ×HEN READY TO DETONATE FORCE THE PAPER TOWEL WITH THE SOLID INSIDE IT,
DOWN THE LITTLE HOLE... DROP IT IN A TRASHCAN AND MOVE AWAY.  ÕSE SMALL AM'TS
IN ORDER TO SPARE YOURSELF SOME PROBLEMS....

ÔIME ÄELAYS:
------------
  ÔHESE DELAYS ONLY WORK WITH THE 2ND AND 3RD VARIATIONS:  ÃOAT THE SOLID IN
ÖASELINE, OR IN THE CASE OF ÉDEA#2, COAT THE TOP OF THE INGREDIENT IN THE FILM
CONTAINER WITH A LIQUID SOAP.  ÔHIS SLOWS DOWN THE REACTION.

Á (ÎOT 5-6) ÒULE ON ØPLOSIVES:
------------------------------
   ÔREAT ALL EXPLOSIVES LIKE A PRESSURE SENSITIVE È-ÂOMB.  ÔHERE WILL BE NO
TROUBLE IF YOU DO.

ÆORMULA #1
----------
  ÃRYSTAL ÄRANO AND GASOLINE REACT VIOLENTLY... É THINK THAT THIS WOULD BE 
A GOOD ONE FOR IDEA #1 AND IDEA #2. ÉN IDEA #1 PLACE THE GASOLINE IN THE 
CONTAINER, AND PLACE THE CRYSTAL ÄRANO IN THE PIPE... ÉN IDEA #2 PLACE THE 
ÄRANO IN THE 36 MM FILM CONTAINER. AND TH GAS IN THE JAR.  É WOULD PUT A
 DELAY ON THIS ONE.

ÆORMULA #2
----------
  ÔHIS ONE IS PROBABLY ONLY GOOD FOR IDEA#1, AND IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.  ÉN
THIS CASE, YOU NEED TO GET ÃALCIUM ÃARBIDE AT A ÈARDWARE STORE (ÃALCIUM Ã. 
LAMPS USE IT)  ÐLACE THE Ã.Ã. IN THE PIPE.  ÐLACE THE WATER IN THE JAR, AND
 WRAP A WRAG SOAKED IN GASOLINE AROUND IT.  ×HEN READY TO USE, SIMPLY LIGHT THE
RAG, AND BREAK THE JAR... ÇÅÔ ÒÉÄ ÏÆ ÉÔ ÔÈÅÎ!!! ÄÁÎÇÅÒÏÕÓÅÒ THAN THE OTHERS,
 AS THE EXPANDING GAS BLOWS THE PIPE APART, THEN GAS IS LIT, AND IT EXPLODES.

ÆORMULA #3
----------
  ÔHIS IS AN OLDY, BUT GOODY, AND THE MATERIALS ARE BEYOND EASY TO GET. ÔHE
MATERIALS ARE: ÂAKING ÓODA AND ÖINEGAR.  ÔHIS ONE WORKS FOR ALL THREE IDEAS,
AND IS ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR THREE, SINCE IT WON'T EXPLODE, JUST FOAM UP 
BECAUSE OF THE HOLE IN THE TOP.  ÉT NEVER HURTS TO BE SAFE, SO PLAY WITH THE 
AM'TS... ÉN IDEA#1 PLACE THE VINEGAR IN THE JAR THE SAME IN #2.  ÉN #3, PLACE
THE VINEGAR IN THE CAN.

ÆORMULA #4
----------
  ÔHIS ONE USES ÇRANULATED POOL ÃHLORINE AND ÐINEÓOL.  ÉF IT IS NOT IN A CLOSED
CONTAINER, A GOUT OF FLAME WILL FIRE UP. ÉF IN A CONTAINER, AN EXPLOSION 
RESULTS BECAUSE OF PRESSURE. ÖERY MUCH LIKE ÆORMULA #1.  ÐLAY WITH IT IN IDEA
#3.  ÐLACE THE SOLID IN THE PAPER TOWELS AND USE SMALL AM'TS FIRST.

ÔHERMITE:
---------
 ÔHERMITE, IS A MIXTURE, OF 25% ALUMINUM FILINGS, 75% IRON OXIDE FILINGS.
×HEN LIT, BY SOMETHING LIKE BLACK POWDER, (É.Å. ÔHERMITE CORE) IT BURNS 
ÆÉÅÒÃÅÌÙ.  ÒECQUIRES A FAIRLY HIGH TEMPERATURE TO START.

ÎAPALM
------
  ÔHE ÂÅÓÔ FORMULA FOR ÎAPALM IS GASOLINE AND STYROFOAM.  ÌET IT DISSOLVE, AND
SPOON OUT XS GASOLINE.

ÓMOKE ÍIXTURE
-------------
  ÔHIS IS MIXTURE THAT BURNS FIERCELY, WHEN FRESH AND LOW WHEN NOT, BUT IN ANY
CASE IT GIVES OFF A DENSE WHITE SMOKE.  ÉT IS COMPOSED OF ÐOTASSIUM ÎITRATE AND
ÓUGAR IN A RATIO OF 6 PARTS P.N. TO 4 PARTS SUGAR.  ÍIX THIS ALL TOGETHER, THEN
HEAT OVER A LOW FLAME.  ÉT WILL SLOWLY FORM A THICK BROWN SYRUPY MIXTURE.  ×HEN
STILL IN A LIQUID FORM, POUR IT INTO A MOLD.  ×HEN STILL SYRUPY, IT BURNS WITH
A HOT FLAME ABOUT 1 FOOT HIGH.  

ÓMOKE ÍIXTURE #2
----------------
  ÔHIS IS A MIXTURE OF 6 PARTS CHARCOAL, 3 PARTS POTASSIUM NITRATE, AND 1 PART
SULFUR.  ÍIX WELL... ÉT IS VERY MUCH LIKE BLACK POWDER, BUT SMOKES MORE, AND
STINKS TO THE POINT OF DRIVING PEOPLE AWAY.  ÌESS HEAVY ON THE POTASSIUM 
NITRATE THAN THE OTHER.

ÎUT ÂUSTERS
-----------
  ÔHESE ARE EASY TO MAKE, AND MAY BE ALTERED IN POWER EASILY.  ÔAKE A SHOTGUN
SHELL, DETERMINE THE GAUGE YOURSELF, BUT START WITH A 20 GAUGE.  ÔAPE A LARGE
MARBLE TO THE PRIMER.  ÙOU MAY, OR MAY NOT WANT TO REMOVE THE SHOT.  É 
WOULD ÓÔÒÏÎÇÌÙ SUGGEST IT.  ÁLL YOU DO THEN IS THROW IT.  ÔHE WEIGHT OF THE 
MARBLE PULLS IT DOWN, HITS THE PRIMER, AND PUFF.  ÄON'T FORGET TO BE BEHIND SOMETHING IF YOU LEAVE THE SHOT IN.

ÓÏÄÁ ÂÏÍÂÓ
----------

ÉNGREDIENTS:

  ÇRANULATED ÐOOL ÃHLORINE (ÁT LEAST 75% ÃALCIUM ÈYPOCHLORITE) - ÓUGAR - ×ATER
 - 2 ÌITER ÓODA ÂOTTLE

     ÔAKE A QUARTER OF ÃHLORINE AND PLACE IT IN AN EMPTY AND DRY 2 LITER
BOTTLE.  ÐUT THE SAME AMOUNT OF SUGAR AND PLACE IT IN THE BOTTLE TOO.  ÁDD
ENOUGH WATER TO MAKE THE MIXTURE SOAPY.  ÐUT THE CAP ON AND THROW IT AWAY!!!
ÉT SPLATTERS A NOXIOUS AND BLINDING CHEMICAL WHEN IT GOES OFF.  ÁS THE SUGAR
AND CHLORINE DISSOLVE IN THE WATER, THEY WILL REACT WITH EACH OTHER.  ÔHE ÂOMB
IS AS LOUD AS AN Í-80.  ÔHE BOMB WILL TAKE ANYWHERE FROM 30 SECONDS TO 5
MINUTES TO GO OFF.  ÓO IF IT DOESN'T EXPLODE, STILL STAY A WAY AND COME BACK
THE NEXT DAY AND EXAMINE IT.  ÉF IT DOESN'T WORK, TRY ADJUSTING THE AMOUNTS OF
SUGAR AND CHLORINE.
  ** É DIDN'T WRITE THIS ONE, BUT THANX TO WHOEVER DID **

ÂLACK ÐOWDER
------------

ÃOMPOSITION:
 74% ÐOTASSIUM ÎITRATE(ÓALTPETER)
 15.6% ÃHARCOAL
 10.4% ÓULFUR

 ÇRIND THIS ALL TOGETHER, UNTIL YOU HAVE A FINE POWDER.  ÐUT IN A CONTAINER AND
MIX UNTIL IT IS NEARLY BLACK.  ÁDD SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL AND MIX TOGETHER SOME 
MORE.  ÕSE YOUR IMAGAINATION ON WAYS TO MIX IT, JUST DON'T GET IT TOO HOT.
ÂLACK POWDER IS USED FOR A LOT OF THINGS, INCLUDING BLASTING, SO DON'T FORGET
ABOUT BLACK POWDER, JUST BECAUSE YOU WANT TO MAKE Ã-4!!! ÔHE INGREDIENTS MAY
BE OBTAINED AT A DRUG STORE.

 ** ÎOTE:  ÍAKE SURE YOU GRIND THE ÃHARCOAL INTO A VERY FINE POWDER!!! **

ÁMIDPULVER
----------
  ÁMIDPULVER IS A FLAHLESS, ALMOST SMOKELESS POWDER.  (×HEN FIRED FROM A GUN.
 ÉT GOES EASIER ON THE POTASSIUM NITRATE THAN BLACK POWDER, ALTHOUGH IT ABSORBS
WATER FROM THE AIR, AND THIS DEACTIVATES IT.  ÓTORE IN A WATERPROOFED CONTAINER

ÃOMPOSITIONS:
                     ÁMID #1   ÁMID #2
ÐOTASSIUM ÎITRATE:    40%       14%
ÁMMONIUM ÎITRATE:     38%       37%
ÃHARCOAL              22%       49%

ÏF THE TWO, #2 IS THE BETTER FORMULA.
ÁMMONIUM ÎITRATE IS A FERTILIZER, AND CAN BE OBTAINED AT A FEED STORE.
+------------------------------------+
+  ÃALL THESE ÔÏØÉÃ BOARDS:          +
+   ÔHE ÍOB 313-782-9519             +
+   Ä.Á. ][ 313-271-1095             +
+   Ä.Á. ÍAIN 313-386-5469           +
+   ÔHE ÈOLE IN THE ×ALL 313-383-4996+
+   ÍARBLE ÍADNESS 619-353-0970      +
+------------------------------------+

(Ã) ÊANUARY 1987, ÍILAMBER.

ÔHANX TO ÔIGGER FOR DISTRIBUTION.

 É MAY BE FOUND AT ANY OF THE ABOVE BOARDS, FOR QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS.

ÄISCLAIMER:
-----------
   ÔHE ABOVE IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATIONAL USES ONLY.  (ÒIGHT?)  ÁND THE WRITER
IS ÎÏÔ RESPONSIBLE FOR ÁÎÙ INJURIES INCURRED.  ÐLEASE WORK WITH SMALL 
QUANTITIES TO GET THE FEEL.  ËEEP ABOUT 100-300 FEET AWAY, UNTIL YOU HAVE HAD
EXPERIENCE.
 
[É DON'T KNOW WHY É PUT MY NAME HERE, SOME SCUM WILL REMOVE IT, É'M SURE.]

[===========================================================]
[                    Soldiers of Fortune                    ]
[                      proudly present                      ]
[                                                           ]
[             HOW TO MAKE M-80's - The Right Way            ]
[                         by Sir Loki                       ]
[===========================================================]

  In this documentation you will learn how to make very high
powered  M-80's.  These  are very dangerous and  could cause
very bad  results if made without  care.  Be sure to  follow
these steps EXACTLY  for best results.  You may  want to  do
your own changes if you think they will help any.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
-------------------
1/2" x 1 1/2" Tubes with a 1/16" wall with red outer wrap.
- Order about 50 of these from most PAPER TUBE Company's.

1/2" diameter paper end plugs.
- Order 100 of these or double whatever the amount of Paper
  Tubes you ordered.

1/8" Water proof fuses.
- Order as much of this that you would like.  Each M-80 will
  require about 2 1/2" of this fuse or even longer depending
  on what you want.  But i would recommend at least 2 1/2" per
  M-80

Potassium Perchlorate.
- Order about 1 pound or so (Depends on what you will be
  using).  This is also known as Salt Peter.

Aluminum Powder.
- Order about 1/2 pound or exactly half of the amount of Salt
  Peter you have ordered (I.E. 10 Pounds Salt Peter = 5
  Pounds Aluminum Powder).  Make sure it is at least 400
  Mesh, 600 mesh is encouraged though.

Elmers White Glue.
- Just go to a store and by as much as you can afford.  You
  might want to get at least 1 gallon so you can "MASS
  PRODUCE" you M-80's.

Q-Tips.
- Just enough Q-Tips for placing glue in the paper tubes.

Newspaper.
- Use this to do your work on.

Paper Cups.
- Paper cups are to hold the glue.  You may want to use
  something else.

A Pretty Big Bowl.
- Use the bowl to hold the Flash Powder when it is made.
  Also to mix it in.

Spoon.
- The spoon is used to scoop the Flash Powder and put it into
  the tubes.  You may want to use something different.

-------------------





Setting up your work area:
--------------------------
You might want to do this outside on your porch or something.

First - Place the newspaper in a big enough area to suit your
        needs.

Second - Get all the materials organized in a special place.
         Make sure the Salt Peter and Aluminum Powder are no
         where near flames and if you have 400 mesh Aluminum
         Powder do not put it with the Salt Peter just yet.

Third - Get a paper cup and fill it with some of the glue.

Forth - Mix up a batch of Flash Powder by adding 4 cups of
        Salt Peter with 2 cups of Aluminum Powder.  It
        doesn't matter how much but make sure it's a 2 to 1
        ratio using Salt Peter to Aluminum Powder.  Be VERY
        Careful in this process because if you aren't you
        could blow you head off or at least leave a permanent
        scar.  It is very sensitive to Friction and Impact.
        If you are using 400 mesh Aluminum Powder take even
        more precaution.

--------------------------

=============
Development:
=============

MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THESE STEP BY STEP!

Step #1: Take a Q-Tip and dip it into the glue.  Spread the
         glue on the inside of one end of a paper tube.  Now
         insert one of the paper end plugs into the tube.
         Let the tube with the plug dry for about 5 minutes.

Step #2: Punch a 1/8" hole in the center of the tube.


         Diagram:

              [---------------]
              [       o       ]
              [               ]
              [---------------]
         The 'o' indicates a hole approximately 1/8".

Step #3: Cut the fuses into 2 1/2" Pieces or whatever you are
         gonna use.  Preferably at least 2 1/2"!

Step #4: Take another Q-Tip, dip it into the glue, and then
         put some of the glue around the 1/8" hole.  Insert
         fuse into hole, add some (about a drop) glue around
         the hole and the fuse to securely hold it.  Let it
         dry for 2-3 minutes.

Step #5: Use the spoon to scoop some of the Flash Powder and
         add generously to the tube.  The tube should be
         about 2/3 full before you go on.

Step #6: Dip another Q-Tip into the glue and add to the last
         side of the tube.  Make sure there is enough glue to
         hold the paper plug then insert the paper plug.  Let
         this dry for about 5 minutes.

Step #7: To one end of the tube take a drop of glue and
         spread all over the paper plug to ensure that it is
         safely in place.  Let that side dry for 5 minutes
         then do the same to the other side.

Step #8: Let the M-80 stand alone for at least 30 minutes for
         all the glue to dry.  After this is done you might
         want to make sure the plugs are in and glue them
         again.

That is it for Development.

========================

I'd like to thank all the Chemistry textbooks that provided me with this great "information"
and all the BBS's that provided other texts for this definitive and indepth file on things that
go BOOM!!
Thanks and have fun with your M-80's
EnemaCowboy, Storm Shadow, T.S.





